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  1. Dear watch addicted, I hope you can help me. I have a Franken TC Submariner 16610 with an Gen ETA 2824. I would like to buy a Gen dial and Gen hands. For what do I have to look? Any advices? Thanks a lot!!
  2. Dear all, before I start I want to thank this really nice community! I already bought some nice pieces here from some members and met some really friendly people - Also from Germany or Netherlands. Lots of support here!! I did not know that the scene would be so big in Germany too. Sorry to copy and paste that from my IWC thread. But I am really impressed here! So here is my work log for my Franken Rolex Submariner 16610LV and of course I have some questions!! What I have: TW-Best case (same case BK uses) 50th anniversery edition (green insert and bigger indexes) dial GEN crown GEN LV insert GEN crystal Yuki Tube Datewheel from the latest Seadweller Noobfactory bracelet (overworked) Cousins Bezel Click Spring The movement needs to be changed to an Swiss ETA 2836. Already have it here - See pictures below. First questions: Is this a good base to move on? Are there better cases available? Is the GEN dial worth to change? The bracelet is too short for my wrist. Is this the best REP bracelet I can get or would you recommend this. GEN is to expensive in my opinion. So what are your thoughts? Any other ideas or hints or feedback? Thanks!!
  3. Dear fellow Rolex lovers, Just bought a Sub 16610 LN and am ready to make my move for a gen insert and dial. I have recieved an offer at 850$ for both the insert and dial. What do you think ? Good deal ? Fair ? Too expensive ? I already have gen tube, gen crown, clark cyclop. Anything else I should buy before to send everything to Domi? Hands ? DW ? Thanks for your reply. Fran Fran.
  4. Hello, Thanks to all for the warm welcome here. What a great board. SO wish I would have found it sooner! I've recently sold my Rolex Submariner TT with blue dial and am looking for the most accurate replacement. Any words of wisdom? Thanks in advance, PAM1962
  5. ww12345

    5513

    I have a 5513 Sub that, for some reason, stops and starts rather erratically. I know this question probably would have been better in a different section, but I figured I'd ask it here because this seems to be the section with the most "franken" builders. This 5513 seems to be fully wound, and will run for like 5 seconds and then stop. Does anyone have any ideas what might be wrong with it, or who could fix it for me? Thanks in advance!
  6. Anyone see this, is the new better version we have been waiting for? What do you think of it, is it worth it over the standard noob ultimate version. Price is 358 from Trustytime. http://www.ttw168.co...oduct s_id=9958 video: http://vimeo.com/51076356 The 116610 Submariner!!! Ultimate Supreme Version!!! Superlume in Blue!!! Best Ceramic Bezel ever Made with the Blackest Black (Not Grey Black like Earlier Versions) and Glass Cladded over Pearl as per the Genuine.... This is made with Reference to the Genuine 116610 SS Submariner Watch... External Dimension is 1 : 1 against the Genuine... All Parts are interchangeable with Genuine.... MOVEMENT: Nickle Plated Swiss Eta 2836-2 Modified to Rolex Calibre 3135 Markings and Bridges, Automatic Movement, 25J, 28800bph CASE DIAMETER: 40.5mm THICKNESS: 13mm DIAL COLOR: Black Dial, Superlume (Blue) Dot Markers and Needles CASE MATERIAL: SS New Oversize Case, Solid 316F stainless steel BRACELET: Brushed SS New Style Oyster Bracelet, Correct New Rolesor Clasp Oyster/Diver extension with Serial number inscribed on end links FRONT GLASS: Sapphire Crystal, Same Thickness and Height above Bezel as per the Genuine BACK GLASS: Solid case back with Hollogram BEZEL: Ceramic Sandwich Numeral Bezel with Glass Clad Blue Lume Pearl Dot, 120 Clicks Uni-directional HACK MOVEMENT: Yes CLASP TYPE: New Rolesor Clasp DATE INDICATOR: At 3:00 position OTHER REMARKS: Water Resistent Engraved ROLEXROLEX on rehaut with serial numbers
  7. I ordered the 16610LV from TC 2+ weeks ago and it finally arrived yesterday. It was packaged very nicely. It came bubble wrapped and sealed in a silver poly bag inside a small brown box. Just for fun, I re-unboxed it in a Rolex watch shipping box. I have many of these available, if you are interested in purchasing a Rolex plastic shipping box, shoot me a PM. Anyhow, on to the watch reivew... *Sorry in advance for any moisture, dust, or lint on the watches Dial/hands: The dial printing is excellent as usual with TC subs. The font and color looks great. The marker surroundings are quite good for the round makers, but there seems to be a bit too much lume for the 12'o clock marker. I have an extra TC LV dial and its also the case with that dial. The maxi dials have the same width for each of the surroundings whereas the 12, 6 and 9 markers are a bit thicker on the 16610LN models. The hands are quite good, in these macro shots, you see a bit of extra lume around the edges of the hands. This is pretty invisible to the naked eye. The dial and hands are superlumed. Sorry I didn't get a pic, but I can assure you it glows like gen! CG/crown: This has been covered in other reviews. Gen like CG shape. Excellent cut and finish. The crown is very gen like as well. I had a few gen crowns but I didn't even bother switching it. I think it's that good! Date/crystal: RSH pointed out that the DWO (v1 and v2) are a bit left justified. I can confirm that this is the case with both of the TC watches. The LV came with v2 DWO, the background color is more white, but the left justification is present. Its more apparent for numbers in the 20s. vs I also noticed at the TC crystal seem to magnify the date a bit too much. The TC 16610LN has a Clark crystal installed and the magnification is similar to what I see on my gen GMT IIc. There is no LEC at 6'o clock. The crystal does have a softer edge than Clark's (TC crystal is more gen like). Pearl/insert: (gen insert on the LN version) The pearl is excellent on this insert. It's superlumed and seems to have some sort of covering. The pearl surrounding isn't as neat as the gen pearl but its quite good. The insert itself has very accurate shade of green compared to the gen. I did notice that the triangle above the pearl is a bit thin. It has a small crease present. This crease is also on other member's TC LV subs that I've seen. The edges of the insert is pretty clean, but the outer edge is not painted or smooth like the gen (only seen when removed). (moisture around 35-40 markings) Bracelet: The watch came with the V3 bracelet already installed with 1.8mm spring bars. TC also included 2 2.0mm bars. I decided to try swapping the spring bars and it worked flawlessly with the 2.0mm bars. The fitment with the 1.8mm bars had very slight play, its very tight with the 2.0mm bars. The SEL fitment is excellent. It's even all around. My only complaint about the V3 bracelet is the clasp shape and operation. I bought 4 v3 bracelets from TC and each of the clasp caps open and close differently from one another. Either its too tight or too loose, but its easily fixed. I do however think the clasp from the V2 has a more accurate shape. As seen in this photo, the clasp's corners are not "square" enough. It has a tapered look to it. I tried finding pictures of a gen clasp with this shape but almost all of them have sharper corners. The V2 clasp did not have this flaw (although the coronet and swissmade was incorrect). The backside looks pretty good as well. The next version should thin out the backside of the SEL piece so that its flush with the casing. Here are some more pictures my TC 16610LN (gen insert, clark crystal, still has the v1 dwo, v3 bracelet & clasp) and the newly acquired LV
  8. First I would like to thank the members who sent me so many nice PM's about my 5500 post in this forum. I had PMs asking me details about the 5513 pictured in that post, so I figured I should make a new post to share some pictures of that watch. I think the Submariner is a fascinating watch design wise: it had nothing to be a collectible, and yet it became one of those watches most afficionados have to own. Why? It isn't rare, it came out as a rather cheap tool watch, it has a very commun movement that can be found in the less desirable models Rolex has made.... But it's been fourty years we all love it !!! That crave most of us have for this particular model makes it an icon. I hope my pictures will please you as much as the pictures of the Explorer I. Cheers !!!
  9. Hey all, Looking for a blue insert for this guy: http://www.perfectxclones.com/p6676/Rolex-RLSV10024-Vintage-50s-James-Bond-Sub-6205-SS/Nato-Blk-A-2836/product_info.html (Yes, this is not the real perfectclones website. Just using it for reference) Any help would be awesome, thanks!
  10. Just confirmed delivery of Sub SA3135 Best edition from Puretime (superclone movement). Was really keen to get my first sub after having spent so much time doing my researches. I am more an AP ROO fan but I thought it was time for me to get into the Sub world. I bought and confirmed order for the 3 Subs below (I know, I know, why 3 at the same time ???) Was quite happy with my initial order but now wonder if I picked the best reps on the market. I really see a difference with other reps when looking at the 5 of the 50 on bezel or the space between Rolex/crown and 12 o'clok mark. On top of your view on this watches I'd be happy if you could tell me what you would do on my behalf : 1) Stop getting worried as they are still great reps. 2) Buy gen or better rep bezel and dial on the Bay ? Sell on forum and buy TC ? 3) Stop buying Subs and stick to AP ROO Cheers. Fran.
  11. Anyone has noticed that Rolex has changed his lettering in the transition to the new ceramic sub? I have a 14060M V serial 2009 that has the new ft lettering as the new ceramic sub. Others 14060M RRR have the old long ft. See the pics Also has spaces between 1000 ft = 300 m also the 1 is not the old I. This new lettering comes from the new ceramic sub 116610 So, apart from being anal about lettering, what do you think? Maybe in 20 years we'll be here looking for the best case to build a vintage 14060 rep with gen dial "hey dude! nice dial! it has wide ft lettering!
  12. Hi Here are a few Iphone pictures of my 16610. She is a little bit naked now. Getting her gen insert soon. I know these are not really good pictures but I hope you guys enjoy her. Cheers.
  13. I'm thinking about an early 16610 project, does anyone make a decent 93150 rep bracelet?
  14. Not too sure if this is the correct section to post..but Mods, if you think it should belong elsewhere, please go ahead and move it..Thanks! Just recently modded my Noobmariner (thanks Narikka!) and thought I'll post up this simple mod for all members who want to improve the appearance of their Noob Subs.. This tutorial covers only the modding of the pearl..The rest of the other mods have been mentioned and can be found in the beginning of my pictorial review:http://www.rwg.cc/to...ck-from-narikaa I did some research and found from members' inputs that certain types of clear epoxy turn yellow after a year or so. Thing is once the epoxy is cured, it will be very difficult to remove and apply another layer to the existing pearl. Only solutions are to (i) pop the pearl out and change to a WM pearl or any other pearl available in the market OR (ii) live with the yellowed pearl. I can't recall exactly where I saw the tutorial that used GS Hypo Cement as a lume binder but it struck me whilst modding my Noob that it could act as a 'fix' for the pearl.. I mean, GS Hypo cement cures crystal clear and is used for model cars and on clear plastic parts. "This could actually work out pretty well!", I thought out loud. So to put theory to the test, I went ahead and did the mod..First few times were quite bad but as my hands got steadier and I got a better feel of how much 'glue' to use, the pearl got a much better shape and clarity.. This is one of the first few attempts..see that the pearl is slightly deformed and 'glue' spilling over onto the metal rims of the 'cup'.. Then it became better.. And now this is what is on my Noob Sub.. Ok back to the tutorial, first we start off with the necessary tools; Some inserts, a 3x Magnifier, a LED torchlight, GS Hypo Cement, Paper.. I like using GS Hypo Cement mainly because of the fine applicator tip..it is fine enough to fill the pearl..Another plus point is that GS Hypo cleans off easily using rubbing alcohol or nail polish remover (light acetone) with no marks remaining on the surface.. And an entire tube should last you for like ever and ever.. GS Hypo cement becomes sticky in about 10-15mins after application and will partially cure within the hour..Best results will be seen only after 24hours.. The pictures below will give you an idea of what needs to be done: 1. Let some of the 'cement' form at the tip of the applicator, like a water droplet.. 2. Make sure to do some 'practice runs' before actually applying to the pearl/insert 3. This is where the LED torchlight becomes handy (Mine comes with both White and UV LEDs)..Shine onto the pearl and make sure that there is no dust particles on it..Some Rodico putty or a Dust blower can be used here.. Ensure you are comfortable applying the 'cement'..This shows the 'cement' after it has been applied to the pearl/insert..you can see that it is sitting quite high..once the 'glue' cures, it will sit a lot lower.. I use the UV LED to shine onto the pearl to see if I covered the entire pearl.. One more check in natural lighting..All looks good.. Now we just sit, wait and let the 'glue' cure and dry.. MOD DONE! Did I mention that this was REALLY simple? Word of Caution: You do NOT want this to happen to the pearl..As shown in the pics below, there are 2 small air bubbles trapped in the 'cement'..this is unsightly and will have to be removed.. "How to?", you ask..well very very simple..find a needle or pin and lightly poke at it.. The dried 'cement' should come off very easily like a clear 'film' and no sticky residue.. Once removed, repeat the above steps again until u achieve the "Pearl of your dreams".. To end off this tutorial, here's a lume shot of the modded pearl.. Go nuts on this..and oh, any feedback/comments will be much appreciated..
  15. Hey, I'm a noob in the rolex area and I can't identify this submariner : http://www.1-pc8838.com/000rlss00088-2008-submariner-asia-3135-serial-p-7851.html I would like to read on this model on the forum to get to know more about the flaws... Which version is it, the WM9, V3 from the noob factory? I'm looking for the best submariner available around 400 USD shipped... Thx, J.
  16. First off I'm not a big Rolex fan. The only exception for me is the No date sub. I personally find the understated face and overall size and build charming and have been waiting a long time for a descent rep. I came across this Trever's no date sub: http://v.yupoo.com/photos/trevorwatch/albums/4137407/ I'd love to draw on your experience and knowledge as to the following aspects: 1. are the dimensions close? will it feel right on the wrist? 2. should the Swiss eta 2836-2 give the same seconds swiping movement? any further input is welcome, though I am less interested in the minute details as I am in the overall feel and theme. Thanks
  17. Here is a pic that I thought some of you good people might be interested in seeing; my gen Red Submariner. It’s the 1680 model and dates from 1972. It used to be my Grandfathers and it’s true to say it doesn’t come out to play very often, but it’s very special to me (both as a rare watch and as a sentimental heirloom). It was last serviced in 2003 at the Rolex service centre in Bexleyheath, Kent (UK) and it’s been keeping good time ever since. A couple of years ago I treated her to an aftermarket Sub box (pictured) and I’ve recently invested in a Modalo watchwinder to keep everything moving / lubed. Look forward to hearing your comments, and, if anyone anyone can recommend a UK watchmaker (to service my recently acquired Milgauss rep), I’d be very grateful.
  18. Hi everyone I'm fairly new to rep collecting and after a few weeks of researching the forum I've ordered my first 2 reps which we're omegas but now I'm after a submariner.I've made my mind up after reading many topics that bk is deffinatly the top dog when buying rolex reps as he's got great reputation on the forum and great mods which top the reps off. My question is what is the difference between the ceramic sub,the 116610 and the Tw sub.I'm guessing they are just different versions of the same model? And does the Tw stand for taiwan? All 3 look great. Sorry for all the questions but I really wanted to clear this up before I go order the wrong one.or if I don't stop looking on this forum end up buying all 3!!!!!! Cheers Ry
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