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Hey guys, I bought a gen Rolex 1501 case with hands and dial. I was wondering if I could run into any problems, if I put my 1501 dial on a cal. 1570 which came from a 1601? My only concern is with the date wheel, since the 1501 is 34mm and the 1601 is 36mm in diameter. Thank you!

Hello guys! Found this forum while browsing the web about watches. I'm from EU! Hope to help as many people here as I can! I'm in the market for 2 of my favourite watches ever. Here's an overview of what I'm looking for: 1) - The classic Submariner 116610LN (date). New or used. I have preference for Noob V9 or ARF since they are the best quality from what I heard. I prefer having the watch to have sharpie/ spongebob insert and prof cristal (black hole effect on the date). Don't care too much about movement, as long as it's working smoothly and not losing much time every day (I heard 2824 is more reliable and cheaper than 3135). Ideal scenario: as new watch with the mods mentioned above and decent price. If you have a franken sub, I might consider it, but I don't want to spend too much. Throw your proposals! 2) - AP 15400 Royal Oak SS BLACK dial. JF V3 or V4. I'd love to have it with AR cristal (there's a youtube video of one, not sure I can share it here). New or used All depends on the price and condition. Same as above! Now the most important thing. I'm based in a EU country with very strict customs when it comes to goods outside EU. Anything valued over 20 euros is stopped. Therefore, I need a EU based seller to handle the process. Just like other cases seen before on this forum! - Can anyone provide me watches 1) and/or 2) stock / with mods INSIDE EU for a not to high price? (Looking for a good oportunity, but don't want to bargain to much) - If you need to order from China, can you handle the QC, do the mods (you do it or send it to someone who does it) and then ship it for me (triangular shipping)? Let me know your best deals! Reply to this topic or send me PM. Thank you!

Is it true that noob v9 has produced 2 movements? 2836 and 3135?

I've been getting quite a few emails about building a 6542, and I don't think I'm anywhere near an expert on these builds, but there's not a whole lot out there regarding one of these builds, so I figured I'd write up a little tutorial based on info I've scrounged up. Hope it helps! First things first, the case. To start with, The PT 6542 complete watch is not a good base. Nothing on it is gen-spec, or could be made gen-spec. Like I say, I'd go with the 1655 case and grind it down. It's a bigger case, so you could get really damn close by just grinding it down - there's no problems like the stubby CG's on the 5513s. Just do a lot of checking on VRF - find a case you like and make it look exactly like that one. I don't remember what case I used. It was a Silix case, but one of the first I ever bought. From the email I dug up (in 2011), it was a ROL170. I don't know if he has that model anymore, or if you could figure it out from the pictures. I have the pics, and the watch started out as a 6538 (kind of) - it was really, really wrong, and had things like a small crown, wrong size springbar holes, wrong bezel, and so on. My personal recommendation would be not to go with a Silix at all, if you intend on using JoeyB's bezel and insert. They're too nice for a POS Silix rep (even though that's what a few people here swear by). The case is not gen-spec in any way at all. The crystal is glued inside, not outside a lip like gen, the bezel probably won't swap over without heavy modifications, and so on. My recommendation would be actually using a 1655 rep from The Cartel. What I've seen is grinding off the crownguards, thinning the case just a bit, thinning the caseback, drilling the lugs, and retapping for a gen small crown. The reason for this is because the 1655 rep will accept a gen 116 with no trouble, and uses gen bezel construction, so the bezel should swap over with no problem. I would use a gen 116 if you can get one (or a 115, whichever it is - don't remember the exact number) because it really does sparkle and look much, much better than any aftermarket. Next, the dial. I used an Ingod 6542 dial which had the lip ground off. To my eyes, it is closest to gen. However, the lume is awful. My dial arrived with all of the lume basically rubbed off. I would have it relumed by the modder of your choice (either glow or non-glow) and you should be as good as you can get. The dial will need to be glued onto a sort of "spacer" so that it can be attached to the movement. I think it was ground down (the lip) and JB welded onto a flat disc that functioned like a dial spacer. Not sure though. The InGod dial I used was messed with by PB and JMB. Not sure what they did, but I know they both hate me for it! haha Next, the hands. I like Clarks hand, as they look a little more gen (for the old style) than anything I can find. There are flaws (like the minute hand being too short) and the tip on the hour hand is not quite the right shape, as well as the "rectangle" part of the hour hand being too short. If you look at gen pictures you'll see that the hand is a little longer than newer styles - check it out and you'll see what I mean. TBH, I don't remember where I got the small GMT hand. I think I got it from Raffles-Time, but I'm not sure. Next, the movement. I started out using the DG 2804 (or the 2813, whichever is the GMT version) and hated every minute of it. It's not as easy to swap as some people make it sound, and personally I like getting stuff working for a long while, not doing a constant tear down and repair all the time. For that reason, I used the 2836GMT. I know people can bash that movement, but if it's serviced, it shouldn't be a problem. The DWO should be a roulette, which I think someone on RWG is selling for like 20 Euros. Expensive, but worth it. Mine is OK for now, but it really does irk me and I'll probably upgrade it at some point... One of those things, you know. Finally, the bracelet. I would use either a folded 6210 Jubilee or a rivet 6636/7206 (stretch or no stretch). Those would be period correct (the first being custom at Rolex AD and the other being the PanAm standard issue). My recommendation would be to check out some on real auction sites or VRF and find one you like, and mod it to look like that. I think with some case reshaping, a good movement, proper relumed hands and dial, a good roulette wheel DWO and the Joey B bezel and insert, plus a killer bracelet you'd have a top notch 6542. Now go, and make some really awesome 6542s!

Just picked up this GMT Master ii from Andrew at TT, what a great customer service experience! All questions were answered in less than an hour generally and shipping took about 4 days from shipping date to my house in the US. The Watch is a noob best edition and I must say it's 9.8/10 almost perfect! If you're looking for this Watch don't hesitate buying from Andrew he will take care of you!

So I've wanted to post this for a long time now and I think now is the perfect time. This Daytona crazy is insane. With Paul Newmans Daytona selling for 17 million dollars more and more people are wanting a piece of history on their wrist. A few years ago that was me. I contacted the right people and since then I have had 2 spectacular vintage builds. Having said that the real reason for this topic is to get everyones opinion on who is the best. Rolojack or TheSociety. I have worked with Jack in the past and everything has been pretty amazing. Also, I have read up alot on TheSociety and from the looks of posts he also build really well. I want to get other members opinions on who goes down on the top 5 list. I know RoloJack really doesn't build anymore so its a sad situation. I also did not write this so we can flood all these Daytona builders. The main reason is to compare and get real life stories on peoples experiences dealing with these two. They both have different styles, Different sources, and different end products. I know RoloJack is so much more methodical and has attention to detail. I know Society has an insane collection and gets more into tropical dials, etc. With that being said I hope to hear back from you guys and look forward to reading some cool stories. If I left anyone out please members chime in. Thanks.

Hello All, I’m new therefore a pain because I have so many questions that are obvious to many members, But I must start somewhere. There are many abbreviations attached to watches of which I don’t know, is there a place I can find these. I’ve recently purchased a Rolex Daytona Cosmograph (11650 I think) latest edition it cost me $658 from ‘Dtime’ it’s says it waterproofed to 50 mtrs, Once received I wrote to ‘Dtime’ and asked is it W/P for general swimming (Certainly no deeper than 30 mtrs) They have assured me Yes definitely too 30 mtrs but not beyond, Should I have it checked out anyway despite Dtime’s assurance? With these clones/super Clones is Dtime a solid reliable company? Am I overpaying? I only want the best cost to an extent is irrelevant, Yet I see on some sites same watch $150-400, is it a case of “What you pay for you get” lower grade steel, cheaper movement, non AR Etc. i have three watches I want to buy (1 per month) A Breitling Chronomat, A Cartier Panthere (Midsize) and AP Royal Oak when the model I want is in production (Its a pity I can’t attach pics to this message) So in essence I need assistance with a guide to abbreviations and the groups input about ‘Dtime’ I’m familiar with what factory does the best of certain brands. I could probably do with a ‘ Understanding Clones,copies, Do’s and dont’s 101’ So I don’t have to post what might seem Obvious questions, Is there such a thing? I’m based in The UK. Thank you for taking the time to read my post. Regards. Pics 1 and 2 is what I still want. pics 3,4,5 Is What I have Rolex Daytona Cosmograph

Gday everyone Multiple reps in the kitty & this is my first SD43 from ARF - QC just in.... rehault slightly off but this is kind of expected with the ARF isn’t it... Sold as a V2 - what you think people? appears to be V2 - my interpretation is that is has the slightly rounded bezel (not so sharp) etc date wheel looks ok mag decent appreciate any feedback you have guys particularly from any current owners how this one compares sh3135 movement thanks again cheers

I’m looking for a ROLEX DAYTONA TWO TONE 116523 replica anyone here has it ?

Was looking through Trusty's site earlier and came across this 1016 Explorer, which I'm pretty sure is the only cartel 1016 I've seen with drilled lug holes and a proper plexi dome. Still far from perfect — dial numerals are a little wacky, and the drilled holes to some eyes may seem slightly too far inward from the ends of the lugs — but otherwise looks like an improvement over the other 1016 he has for sale, which lacks drilled lugs and whose sapphire crystal is only modestly domed. Hoping he'll put a video up soon. Anyone seen this elsewhere? Or bought one? (Photos via TrustyTime)

Gday everyone Multiple reps in the kitty & this is the first SD43 from ARF - QC just in.... rehault slightly off but this is kind of expected with the ARF isn’t it... Sold as a V2 - what you think people? appears to be V2 - my interpretation is that is has the slightly rounded bezel (not so sharp) etc apppreciate the feedback guys thanks again

Hi everyone I'm looking to buy this Rolex Daydate 40 platinum from Trusty http://trustytimestore.com/index.php...ducts_id=16600 They have both Noob and BP factory options. The noob model is 20 bucks more expensive. I don't know which one to go for. I'm just looking for the closet thing to the original. I appreciate everyone's help with this. Thanks alot

Ever wondered what a Million dollars will buy you these days..?? Most of a 6538 Sub, explorer dial- Meters first red text. and they even throw in the 18mm Nato strap, On the house!! And this is why I love this Rep building hobby Does anyone Make this dial? https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-submariner-6538-christies-new-york-most-expensive-ever

Thinking about buying this watch. Seller is saying v7, just want to make sure. Can you tell if it’s a V7? Also, any flaws you guys see? https://m.imgur.com/a/bALBIpd

Which dealer sells this one and it is really a movement clone? any links to dealer site Thanas

I’m trying to buy a yuki 3135 to make a franken watch. Thinking about the new noob v8 using everything, except the dial and the movement. Tips? Info?

Hi everyone i cant decide on which Rolex Submariner Hulk to go with they are both really nice but i want the one that looks closest to the Genuine! Heres the links to both of the watches im looking at. NOOB V7 - http://trustytime.store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=15352 This one says i can change the external parts i am thinking of changing the face and bezel for a genuine. VRF - http://trustytime.store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_7&products_id=18064 This one doesnt say i can change anything but it does look very nice! If you guys can tell me which one is the better one or give me links to a better one than these to would be amazing and much appreciated! Thanks Very Much!

Today some pictures of my Rolex Daytona 6263 Paul Newman Enjoy them!

I really wish there was more vintage rolex reps, i know theres vintage submariners, GMTs and Daytona reps but i wish there was vintage Daydates and Datejusts. For example, im watching the sopranos, Tony wears a 1980s or 90s Rolex 36mm Daydate Yellow Gold. I have found the new version of the watch but i wish there was a version with the stick dial and with the older clasp and the older bezel, it seems the newer bezels look thicker/bigger than the older bezels. Also Datejusts, i really like the older clasp and not the invisible jubilee clasp as much, i think it gives it a more authentic look and i just like the old school look. Does anyone else think the same? Cheers Freddie

I wanted to share pictures of my Daytona build that I received not to long ago. This project started sometime last year. I knoew what I wanted but was not really familiar with the technical aspects of the build. Parts, movements, etc. After doing alot of research I reached out to Rolojack and asked if he would be willing to make me something pretty special. I decided on the Daytona 6263 PN Panda Dial. Something about this dial that i really liked. I put my trust in his hands and he worked his magic. He would ask me what I wanted every step of the way and was a huge help. Rolojack thanks for doing what you do. Also for taking the time, effort, skill, and patience. Let me know what you all think.

Don't mind the two SDs. This is a Sub thread. I have no idea how I got so obsessed by these. I had no interest in Rolex when I first joined the fora. So for your viewing pleasure / displeasure: Modded 6538, work done by @NCRich. Helenarou big_dazza modded dial. Modded 5512, this one I like playing around with. Franken 5513 built by @tripdog Franken TC 16610LV V6 originally built by BK I guess you would call this a SuperFranken 16803 built by my watchnaker, loads of help from the great members of RWI on this one. 16618 no idea who made it, it has a nice little 2836 inside. This was given to me by some kind members on RWI. Now the Ceramics. My first sub ever the Noob V2/ V5/ V5.1/ V6 No Date 114060 depending on which dealer or member you talk to. I just think of it as the one before the V6s. Hulk Noob V6s 116610LV, this may receive one or two mods. I have had too many Hulks but I have decided to keep this one. I like my Sunburst dials so here are two fantasy 116610s. Kindly given to me by [USER=2295]@rwatch0[/USER] .

Anyone have anything to say about this one? I searched but I didn't see any reviews. http://www.pf-828.com/0-0-0-rlsd00188-2017-sky-f-43mm-sea-dweller-4000-126600-ss-ss-black-a-2813.html

The story is the Ordered a watch that have a Lower Crown of the dial and the wrong color lume ( green instead of blue). The TD sent me the replacement dial.....with Still the wrong color lume......So I decided not to worry about it anymore Since the Rep stops working every couple days. Im am thinking of sending it off to be relumed, Dial replaced and serviced....Any recommendations ?? in US? Can you please tell me what you guys think of the replacement Dial? thicker Indices.? The old marker on the watch is crooked @ 5 mins as well. the crown on the watch dial is 3D while the crown on the new replacement dial is flat. Also the dial feet are @ min 43 and min 13, does that sound right for a 2836? Thank you folks.

I thought I would show her off a little. Bought her a few years ago. She is my daily. Originally a TCv6 with a few bits and bobs....