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Hi ladies and gents! Got these QC-pics. Think they look good, what do you think? /Akilles

Hi, I am looking to purchase the best 5513 and 1675 GMT replica also in the market for a Daytona. Any suggestions please? Anybody used Trusty Time? http://www.ttw-138.com? Regards Martin

Hey guys, so I bought a Rolex submariner rep. Paid $300 of trusty time. Now I when I pull out the dial to adjust the time/date, it doesn't catch anything and I can't change the time! The perpetual movement still works and ticks fine. Wtf happened?!

The 16800 I've been thinking about this for quite a while yet and thought I would do a little tutorial on 16800 builds as the one I did on the Bluesy builds. Since there are NO reps of that model, you HAVE to build it to have it. So first things first.. The 16800 Basically it is the model between the 1680 and the 16610 (168000 actually but are we counting this??) It is a pretty unpopular Rolex in collectors eyes so far but I am totally positive that will change drastically over time with the rarity of the Pallettoni dials and the special spider dials that are popping up in those pieces, there most likely is a great potential in those pieces. Improvements compared to the 1680: - Saphire Crystal -> no more acrylic - Rolex Cal 3035 -> no more 1570/5 (-> added QuickSet function and now high beat) - Unidirectional rotating bezel - Waterproof to a depth of 300m -> 200m on the 1680 - New crown - 703 (trip lock) -> 700 on the 1680 - 93150 Bracelet with 593 end links -> 7206 or 9315 on the 1680 with 580 end links Now let's get to the building. Of course you will want a decent case as a base for your build. I also have to say this is probably one of the hardest tasks in repdom. Find a correct case... There are not many to choose... Only ones I know about that are usable are: - 3035 ST case (old and super rare) - Phong 16800 case ($$$) Sure you could use a TC case too but that wouldn't have a shallow rehaut and just be incorrect, also you will have to drill lug holes. It's up to you to decide if you can live with that flaw or not. Imho it's not too much of a biggie but I would still hunt for a correct case. Once you have a case, move on with the sourcing of a crystal, crown and tube. I personally would go gen on all of those. - nonAR 295c sapphire crystal - 703 crown and tube After that, I would go with the decision of the bezel assembly and the bezel ring. Your choices are: - Genuine - Phong - ST - TC (if you go TC case) Bezel insert HAS to be gen imho so there goes that. Now we have almost everything except for movement, bracelet, hands and dial eh? Yeah exactly. Now it is yours to choose if you want to go matte dial (Pallettoni) or gloss dial (with WG surrounds) Special dials would be the Spider dials (also $$$ if proper one) Spider dial: The matte dials are pretty expensive to buy if you can even find them in an acceptable condition. They are really hard to come by. The gloss ones although are out there like sand on the beach, you can find them literally everywhere and also score pretty good deals on them To be periodic correct there are several Marks for the dials.. Matte dials: Mk1: Mk2: Rare dial, can usually be found on watches with serial numbers from 6.1 to 8.5 mil ('84-'85) The hyphen in the wording 'Swiss - T<25' is perfectly centered with the '6 Marker whilst on the Mk1 it was placed more on the right. Also in the depth indication the tail of the letter 'f' almost touches the tip of the letter V in 'SUPERLATIVE'. Mk3: Even rarer dial than mk2 The two hyphens of the '=' in the depth indication are staggered - not aligned to each other Mk4: Now the Mk4 is a special dial since it is a dial that was around at the early serials. It is unique for the font of the 'ft' and the inclination. Gloss dials: Mk1: Mk2: I think the difference between gloss Mk1 and Mk2 are obvious, so I will not get into them now. Bicchierini Dial the Beyeler dials with WG surrounds that came out in '84 and lasted for a year or two. These dials would have the same printed font as the matte dials and were supposedly gloss dials but a lot of them have lost their gloss over time. This is a Beyeler dial- circa 84-85. (taken from alli, thanks I forgot it) If you have found a dial you like, go and buy a hands set, you should use: - genuine - TC LN v2 and age them to match the Patina of your dial. When it comes to the movement, the question is all about your wallet. You can go: - genuine cal. 3035 - ETA Now last but not least, we're having the bracelet.. For that you can choose between those: - genuine 93150 - PT 93150 - anything else aftermarket However I would suggest at least getting a genuine clasp for it. Please also keep the dating of the clasp code in mind so that it mates up with the rest of your build specs. After you have sourced all of those parts, send them out to the watchmaker of your choice and have him build the 16800. Happy building! :sparta::hi: @Sogeha

Hello fellow members. I've just registered, and I'd like to ask you a question. I know that maybe such questions are common here, but I have a serious dilema. I have 19cm wrist, will submariner look ok on me? Anyway, I wanted to buy V7 Submariner from N. What do you think about it? I've found a video HERE and it looks marvelous. There are some retailers selling them online, but maybe you happen to know trusted retailers? But I've also found site called iSwiss, on which they sell V7 really cheap but it's NOT RECOMMENDED and there are several comments saying N. replicas are bad. What do you think? Kind regards for everyone!

I've been holding on to an 80's 1680 white service dial and insert for about a year now. My original plan was to put it into an MBW case but once I realized, to make it fit I was going to have to shave the dial down I decided not to go down that route. I have also been away from the rep game for a while. I see this new SH3135 movement being offered by JF Factory. I was wondering, if I bought a Phong case that was more correct spec, would I be able to combine the service dial and this new movement with out cutting the dial feet? Would the date wheel line up and would this movement fit in that case? Any help is greatly appreciated!

I've been selling all the watches for some time ... And I bought one again and made some pictures of it. Regards.

Rep Rolex Sub C LV on eBAY? Rolex experts take a look and chime up....rep? Highly likely with one feedback. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rolex-Submariner-Date-116610LV-Wrist-Watch-for-Men-/162382449600?hash=item25cebf8bc0:g:11kAAOSw4DJYlLhL

Hello there, I've received the QC pics of my new Submariner 116610LN V6s. As I'm not VERY good with doing QC's; I'd love to receive some help from the more experienced, (Rolex) Qc connoisseurs. Please chime in with your knowledge and help me out as much as you can, would be greatly appreciated. - Are there any flaws? If so, which? - Should I ask for more (detailed) pictures? - Should I Accept it? I hope to hear from you guys, I have about 16 hours to get back to them before they will send it to me. Thank you so much in advance!

A member sent me this link. Any of you Rolex experts ever heard of these crystals? Please chime up. Thanks! http://www.startimesupply.com/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY_X&Store_Code=1&Category_Code=1D_Rolex_Crystal_Sapp-CY-GMT&Product_Code http://www.startimesupply.com/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY-30&Store_Code=1&Category_Code=1H-Parts-Gaskets-Crystal-Rolex&Product_Code

For your eyes is an other 6538 build based on the infamous HR rep. Here I did my modification that consists in thinning the mid case from the top to have the crown appear higher. See how this mod enhances the lenght of the lugs !!! It changes the looks a lot. The watch appears very sleek. The lug holes were redrilled to gen size and proper springbars with polished tip were fitted. Thanks to the watch owner, I also modified the profile of the bezel. I sandblasted it to remove the plating partially between the teeth, and I engine turned the bezel to shape the teeth in a more genuine like profile. The insert was shaved from the bottom to sit lower, and the inner diameter was enlarged for it to appear thinner. As for the glass... did you know sizes vary from one HR case to an other? Well, now I know... And this one has a larger rehaut. Too large to hold a T21. So I did something different this time since I am against using glue or any dirty back room tricks when possible: I used a T39 I shaved from the bottom to remove the retaining lip. I shaped the sides just like the original HR stock crystal to re-use the nylon gasket. Repolished and super tight pressure fit. This might be the first water resistant acrylic crystal fitted WITHOUT GLUE on a HR. The dial was mildly aged with different inks. Result is very subtle, nothing loud. Enjoy the pics !!!

Team, I ordered a new LV Hulk from Andrew at ttw8488.com and I would like your insight as to what to look for in the QC photos. Any known problems with this model? Specifically, I ordered the top of the line model with the SA 3135 movement. Drop a reply and let me know please.

Hi there fellow collectors and watch lovers! Thank you for the chance to be a part of this great community!!! Collecting vintage watches and reps since ever. So I really remember the times when I bought my first reps in the 90s ... oh my, compared to todays great pieces I can say, they really changed a LOT for the better :-) My favourite brands are AP, PP & Rolex Especially vintage style reps and modded reps with a special creative touch I like a lot. Hope to get more inspiration, ideas and knowlege here in future to work more on my planned rep mod projects. (hope to have also enough time off my job for that ....:-) Have a great time! Elias

Please advise me which seller has a good reputation. I'm really new here, I need any suggestions that you guys might have. Thank you in advance!

Hey all, I'm exploring a Big Crown build. This will be a first. I understand that not all movements fit into the case properly, and therefore you either need the right movement or the proper adapter. That said, when exploring Yuki's store, I saw that the dials said " 6538 Dial adapted for ETA " I noticed this dial was 28mm vs 27 mm on the standard dial for the case. My question is....what does the dial have to do with the movement? Also, if the case is a certain size...how can a bigger dial work? Anyway, I'm sure this question shows my ignorance. Can anyone explain whether the dial matters vs movement? why? Thank you all for your watch wisdom.

Hello all, here is an other modified Cartel case based 5513 build. The mods and parts list to achieve this are as follows: - Cartel 1680 supplied by Trevor as efficient as always - Gilt Underline dial supplied by Yuki - 700 crown by Athaya - Sternkreuz T19 - Aussie springbars What has been done: Mid case crown guards shaved and reshaped, rehaut re-milled, crown seat lowered so the crown is nearer to the bezel, lugs reshaped and finished with the correct angled brushing, lug holes enlarged to fit gen spec spring bars, bezel ring re-milled to tight fit the gen spec T19, bezel insert slimmed to seat lower in the revolving ring and treated with sodium hydroxide for aging, dial treated with a mix of ink and PVP to simulate the gloss finish age -hard to capture on the pics but in the flesh it gives a lot of depth and character to the finish-, hands treated with ink and PVP together with the dial, and..... lots of love !!! Now to the pics:

Hi guys, Today I had the time to make a couple of pictures of my new Rolex Submariner 114060. Enjoy!

Hi all, I would like to have your thoughts/opinions on the "improved?" version of the V5 Submariner, namely; the V6. I will list the changes and improvements. - Bezel markers are as deep as gen and have the platinum hue. (Finally; maybe no more PPP-mods? > The "older" models had white bezel markers. - Double AR has now a "sight blueish" tint that the gen has. - The rehaut engravings are same as gen has right now. [Double line engraving] (Apparently a new machine has been bought in order to replicate it better.) - The crystal now sits slightly above the bezel as per gen. The crystal's edge is also rounded as per gen. - The bracelet is (now) SEL; clasp with polished Rolex crown logo. - NEW SA3135 (Option). No more modified A2836-movements but a true "clone" 3135. Not sure if I can post the link but the watch is to be found here: http://puretime.watch/submariner-116610-ln-black-ceramic-v6s-11-noob-best-edition-sa3135.html# It is listed at $418 with SA3135 movement. I was wondering what you guys think of the new version and thoughts on the changes/improvements. Hope to hear your opinions on this.

At this point I have only installed the Yuki dial, hands and blue insert. The hands I aged with a light scuffing from 3000 grit sandpaper and espresso foam. I chose a dark blue insert from Yuki because the inspiration for this watch was a gen that's bezel faded to a light blue. Without knowing what the base color was for the aftermarket inserts, I decided to get this blue insert and fade it to see if it can work. I bleached it for about 30 min, buffed with 5000 grit sandpaper and then spread nearly dry espresso around it to offset the blue and add a little vintage grime. That's the main thing I would like to know you're opinion on. Does the blue look legitimately like a faded, once black insert or does it just look plain blue? I know the insert is a lighter shade then the reference picture but that was the point where I felt it started loosing that obvious blue look. Reference gen 5513 Gilt My MBW

For your eyes is a PCG case carved from an unidentified case.... Bracelet is Yuki, crown is Athaya, dial I am not sure....

Can someone please help me identify this watch? I picked it up on CL today for $200. Obviously I know it's a 50th anniversary; but can someone with a keen eye maybe provide some insight on what factory makes this watch? And version? I've never seen this movement before either. I was thinking it was a 21J? (Doesn't tick as smooth as my other watch which has a clone ETA. Is this rep any good? Worth modding? Thanks guys.

Hey Guys- Still a noob here but just wanted to see which reps and AD's you think have the best or most undetectable rolex reps? I am looking for something that only a jewler could determine as a rep or as close as reps can get to that. If this really isn't a possibility and it very well could be, then should I just be scouring the forum for franken watches that have the important gen pieces (whatever those may be)? Sorry for the presumable noob questions but I figured it was worth a shot and you guys might hook me up with some valuble info/ lessons in this whole ordeal.

This is the v6 Noob sub (NOY the v6S), apparently the same as the v5 but with an upgraded dial. This one runs an A2836. I picked it up from Toro in his pre-CNY clearance sale for about $250. First things first this is a really, really nice watch. Out of the box it looks and feels genuine, it's as solidly built and smooth as my genuine TAG Aquaracer, with the exception of the rotor which is a little noisy. The dial is stunning, with colour changing from dark to light green and sparkling as the light catches it. The ceramic bezel also looks good although the colour seems a little washed out compared to the dial. I have no idea what a real one looks like but this looks stunning. The bracelet is very well made and solid feeling. One link had a fouled screw, which I simply removed - and I always have plenty of spares. There is the tiniest of SEL gaps which is well within my tolerance and better than some I have seen. Otherwise all seems in order. Markers look straight to me, date wheel looks nicely centred and the pearl is good to my eyes. I'd definitely a step up from my last Hulk, which was one of Reg's from a while ago and which had the old white numbers (now they are platinum, lovely!) and a 21J movement instead of the asian 2836 in this one. It's a grade A, which is good news. Not as good as AAA but still worthy! And it ha a bezel protector on it with N for Noob on it! Plenty of protective plastic, over every single edge and every single surfacePearl and triangle are well alignedNot had a platinum numbers model before. These are actually better finished than the ones in my genuine TAGThe crown is really crisp and well finishedNew dial with 'correct' 300 m spacing (Apparently, I can't tell the difference...)Date wheel alignment is the best I have had. Cyclops is really nice, easier to read than others I have had, maybe the AR coating?And a wristy:

Ladies & Gentlemen, For your consideration: Genuine Rolex Cal.1520 serviced, worn parts replaced including auto-wind mech and balanceGenuine Rolex T-19 PlexiGenuine Rolex 700 crown and tubeGenuine bezel assembly, modified to case. (I tried many rep assemblies and then messed with the gen one I bought, thinning the outer part of the plexi retainer with a dremel...risky, but it worked.)Genuine Rolex MKII Fat InsertGenuine Rolex Singer plate dial, refinished, gilt gloss. Tritium effect, uneven fade, semi non-luminous plots by Big Dazza per special request.Genuine Rolex Gold Hands same as above, Big DazzaUnknown PCG Case - reshaped by DBane, myself, and engraved by NeckyzipsRep 7206 bracelet and 80 endlinks (Neckyzips engravings)Genuine Rolex claspNOS Rolex Case-back Sticker, Radiation Safe, as per early to mid 1960's advertsGenuine Rolex Box, pillow and wrap, polishing cloth. Papers by Rolojack. It's been a labor of love, and taken quite some time. I'm very happy with it. I am declaring it finished and moving on to my next project as well as a gen 1675 acquisition. Hope you enjoy the pics/post.

So... What's the consensus? A bit fantasy model? I for one, love the non-cyclops plexi. http://www.puretime.watch/shop/product/vintage-submariner-1680-ss-black-dial-on-ss-bracelet-a2824/