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Today some pictures of my new Rolex Submariner Blaken I bought from a fantastic member (Thank you again!). It's a unusual Submariner "by Blaken", a beautiful blend of a no date Submariner with an Explorer dial with a grey DLC finish.

Hi all, Need some expert knowledge. I've had a couple of TC v6s in the last 2 years and they've been perfect, other than the raised/thicker SEL midlinks when compared to the gens. I purchased a gen 93250 bracelet cos it bothered me, but then found that the gen SEL fit fractions of millimetres too small (my lug widths are 20.15mm wide) resulting in a not-too-perfect loose fit. I've seen in a few pics of TC's latest 16610LV that the thickness of the SEL midlink has been reduced and looks a lot more like the gen. Can anyone confirm this? Am I seeing things, or have v4/v3 TC 93250s been installed on the pics I've seen? Thanks

I'm looking to add a sub to my collection. I want a classic silver / black, with a date on it and a good rep date mag if such a thing exists? Noob to Rolex apart from the Deepsea i bought about 4 years ago from Josh. Are there any WM9 models i should be on the lookout for? Or should I just order the Noob V3...? Help!

Dear All, I haven't posted in awhile, but here I am. :-) Hope you're all doing fine, I've been checking forums regularly of course, as always. I would really like to hear your honest opinions my PPP-Mod and my Pearl Replacement. I have got these done, haven't done them myself; therefore I would like a review. ] I've paid €80,- for the re-PPP and the Pearl replacement (incl. donor-pearl); therefore I'm seeking for a review. So, my Rolex has undergone a Pearl replacement due to the old one falling off (And it was untraceable, so this a new "donor-pearl") and it has gotten a PPP-Mod after the previous PPP-Mod I got done came off. I have taken pictures on a white (Rolex) booklet so you can see the difference between the "platinum" and the "white". In my opinion the marker behind the pearl hasn't been done correctly, neither has the "10" mark been done correctly. In my eyes they seem underfilled with Platinum paint. On to the pictures, these are pictures after I received the watch coming back from service. Please decide for yourself and comment. :-) If anybody wants any other picture(s), please let me know and I will add them. :-) Thanks for helping me out.

Hello, I have a co-worker who is showing me (this week) some of his "supposedly" gen rolex watches and wants to sell me one, he claims he is in dire need of cash. So he's telling me he sells me his Rollie Sub aluminium 16610 (used of course) for a cheap price, $1000 USD, which is ridiculous because on chrono24 the cheapest 2nd hand 16610s go for $4000 USD. I don't knw why but he seems like a little deceptive, maybe the watches are stolen or something or are super reps, that doesn't make much senses because for the price he's selling you barely can buy a super rep like a franken TC Sub v6. I know the common tells between a super rep like a TC Sub V6 vs a Gen 16610,but what about a franken super rep, like a TC Sub V6 with franken bezel/insert and crystal/crown. Are there "common" tells to distinguish between a gen 16610? He claims he can't have the watch opened because he doesn't have the time to take it to an AD to have it identified as gen, but the will let me look at it even through a loupe. I know that its supposed to have a gen 3135 movement, so if I play the crown to set the date / time etc I will know if its an ETA or a 3135 (could be a yuki 3135 though!) by watching the hands movements CW/CCW in respect to the crown movements, but the concrete question, Are there any other less known tells, like the hand stack? I have read somewhere about this but can find the information and haven't been able to find anything despite a through and time consuming research on google and all the other forums. I don't want to expend cash on a super rep pretending to be a gen! I'd rather knw its a super rep and decide to buy it -or not- as I already have a TC Sub V6 with a gen insert. Thank you very for reading and I would appreciate your help! Best regards

My Vintage Rolex Collection The time has come to finally show you all my vintage Rolex collection. I love every one of them and still wondering about what should come next. Suggestions? Thanks for watching! - Sub007 Nr. 1: Rolex 16014 Franken Datejust (built by StoneP) Parts: Gen 16014 Case, Gen Tube, Gen Stem& 600 Crown, Gen Caseback, Gen Bezel, Gen Linen Dial, DWO (rep), Clark 25-135 xtal, 2834 movement, Rep Jubilee and ends (Riyi), Gen spec 2.0 mm springbars I´m a sucker for vintage rolex and the Datejust seemed such an elegant and very wearable watch, especially when wearing suits and cuffed shirts. Sourced this watch with StoneP who is just great guy with too many Rolex parts LOL. So when he wanted to get rid of some parts I pulled the trigger. But then the franken bug bit me and I wanted more, more and more...so while I intended to `just` buy GEN dial I ended up buying fully built Franken. But the result is just breathtaking, linen dial is something you have to see in real life and this is a 6 million gen case in pristine condition. Engine turned, I love it and at 36mm it feels so nice on the wrist. Found a very nice rep jubilee on the bay from Riyi002 (what a gentleman) and fitted some gen spec springs to it. Nr. 2: Rolex GMT 16700 (TW Maker with GEN Insert) So I just love this watch because it really adds colour to the black and white of Rolex Sports watches. The rep insert was really bad so I changed it for this GEN insert (required a new bezel as well). And now it looks and feels like GEN to me. Got this particular watch from Marvellous Replica (not sure if he´s TD here) but he is one of my favourite TD´s. This for sure is a keeper!!! Nr. 3: Rolex 5513 Franken Submariner Parts: Cartel 5513 case (Modded to a 1984 5513 by Rolojack), Helenarou Caseback, NOS Swiss ETA 2846, GEN ROLEX 5513 Spider Dial, GEN TUDOR Mercedes Hands, GEN ROLEX 5513 Insert, GEN ROLEX T-19, Aftermarket Bezel Assembly, Athaya 702 tube & crown, Yuki Bracelet and clasp, WSO 580 ends, Gen spec spring bars This was the one that got me all started with vintage Rolex in the first place. It has been discussed by my elaborately on this forum. And thanks to the great craftmanship of Rolojack and assembly and watchmaking skills of DR3M3L (Mod at RWI) this baby is now finished. Love the clean look of it and the gen spider dial is really making this a one of kind 5513. Nr. 4: Rolex 16600 Seadweller Parts: Stock BP SD with TC Dial, TC hands, TC insert, TC bracelet & clasp, GEN 704 Crown, Swiss ETA movement This baby originally comes from @OCCB2 who is by far one the greatest guys I ever met on the forums. True gentleman and went out on a limb to get this baby safe from CONUS to EU. It originally came with TC crown but fitted one of my 704 crowns as the TC kept slipping. And now it is a nice and steady beater with great lume, has date but no cyclops (so no issues LOL) and TC parts surely make this one badass rep that could certainly meet up with GEN.

Dear all, Unfortunately, last week I've lost my pearl of my sub. Yesterday, some of my paint from the PPP-MOD came off. I haven't been very lucky lately, I just wanted to replace my pearl, but now my insert is screwed as it s also losing the platinum paint. Therefore, I am looking to entirely replace the bezel insert. I'm looking to buy one and I'm not very sure where to look, as I'm looking for a good one. (I might even go gen If someone has something nice to offer); please help me out and recommend me something. Really greatly appreciated. I've included a pic for the interested ones. — Avenue

Dear all, Unfortunately, last week I've lost my pearl of my sub. Yesterday, some of my paint from the PPP-MOD came off. I haven't been very lucky lately, I just wanted to replace my pearl, but now my insert is screwed as it s also losing the platinum paint. Therefore, I am looking to entirely replace the bezel insert. I'm looking to buy one and I'm not very sure where to look, as I'm looking for a good one. (I might even go gen If someone has something nice to offer); please help me out and recommend me something. Really greatly appreciated. I've included a pic for the interested ones. — Avenue

Just started working on a Submariner 16610 Franken and was curious what order others had done their upgrades in? So far I've done: Gen Crown Gen Ceramic Bezel Next I would like to do a gen band but am questioning if I should go for the crystal first. The dial looks so close I'd likely look at that last. Movement I'm not concerned with as I'd just buy gen if I was doing that as well. So what about you?

My WSO 580 endlinks arrived and I am trying to get these to fit with my Puretime 1680 case and gen spec bars. Here is my problem: The end pieces accept the bars just fine, and when I install them it feels like the tips of the pins are engaging with the interior chamfer of the lugholes, but for the life of me I cannot get the pins to engage further and fully snap into the actual hole. This is a much better fit than my original Puretime endlinks, which didn't even allow the tips to come close to the holes, but it still isn't acceptable. The underside of the WSO endlinks also fits flush against the underside of the case, whereas the underside of the original Puretime endlinks was angled. Overall the WSO looks like a more professional and well designed fit - cleaner. Is there something else I should be doing with these? I have tried pushing on the ends to try to get them to engage. I have tried pushing towards the case while wiggling, I have tried pushing up and down, and from different angles. Am I missing a simple step here? Do these need to be bent or sanded? Thanks!

ROLEX 5513 Spider Franken build After exactly 6 months since I started on this project I can now announce that my Franken ROLEX 5513 Spider is now fully assembled and finished . I´m still considering a GEN 702 crown (Anyone got one?) but then again the Athaya is also great. So once more here´s the parts list and then I let you guys enjoy the assembly pics by the master himself Joran (@DR3M3L at RWI and a very skilled watchmaker). He did an incredible job of putting it all together after @Rolojack did an amazing job on the case (see part 2 of the build for that). A big thank you to all of you who have responded to me a long the way. A very special thank you goes out to @Ingelero who has been a big inspiration and help in my journey. He is one of kind guy and his love and passion for Vintage Rolex has inspired me to the vintage route. For part 1 of the 5513 build click here: http://www.rwgforum.net/topic/178404-5513-build-parts-now-complete/ For part 2 of the 5513 build click here: http://www.rwgforum.net/topic/178871-5513-case-origin/ Updated Parts list: Cartel 5513 case (Modded to a 1984 5513 by Rolojack) Helenarou Caseback (flatter than the cartel) NOS Swiss ETA 2846 GEN ROLEX 5513 Spider Dial GEN TUDOR Mercedes Hands (switched from the TCV1 and clarks because of softer white) GEN ROLEX 5513 Insert GEN ROLEX T-19 (switched from aftermarket to GEN because of clarity) Aftermarket Bezel Assembly Athaya 702 tube & crown Yuki Bracelet and clasp WSO 580 ends Gen spec spring bars Pics and text Courtesy of Joran (D3M3L at RWI) GEN 5513 Spider Dial Removing the old (bold) plexi: Fitting new gen plexi: Insert fitted and bezel added to the case: Dial: Removing datewheel and it's gears: Dial and hands attached, into the case: Silicon grease on the sealings, caseback back on and the bracelet attached! And waterproofed till 6 Bar

This is a Snowflake budget build that I completed about two weeks ago. It was meant to be a project that could be completed for under $250. Sooo, that meant I was unable to do some of the more detailed things like the engraved caseback, gen spec 580 end links, send out to get case reshaped etc. But I think it looks great for the investment and it accomplishes exactly what I was looking for. The parts are: Case: cartel 5512 Hands: raffles Dial: raffles I haven't aged this one apart from a little bit of hour marker aging which can't really be seen in the pics. I plan on doing the insert sometime soon. But for now, I;m enjoying the new old stock look. Next build will be a Tudor 7922 big crown! I'm excited about that one as well!

I thought I would show off the new dancing shoes for my little honey, here. At the same time I wanted to show some pleasant surprises I discovered along the way. Just for the record, this is a Puretime red 1680 with ETA 2846 and a gen, vintage 7mm crown. Stock crystal, dial, hands, and insert/pearl. I purchased the watch in 2011 from Angus and it I wear it regularly. I celebrated my birthday recently, and one of the gifts my wife gave me was a handmade strap from Martu. Andrea is based in Chile and she is great to work with. She has a lot of options with very reasonable prices. I found out about her through other threads here and on the other boards. First off, I removed the 93150 bracelet, 580 endlinks, and shouldered rep bars that came with the watch. I really like Oyster bracelets, so I plan to do a lot of switching back and forth between the two. Ugh, I hate the rep bars and the fact that because they are shouldered, there is nothing protruding through the lugholes. Notice the black hole where no tips are visible! Sadly, I have to use rep bars until I get better fitting endlinks that work with my 2mm gen spec bars. With my current endlinks, the tips of the gen spec bars don't quite line up with the lugholes, so I can't use them with the Oyster. I don't want to have to keep changing bars depending on what I'm using for a band. One set should be plenty, so this means I either have get WSO endlinks (that work with 2mm gen bars) or switch to 1.8mm shoulderless bars, which is also a good option. In the end I think the WSO endlinks will prevail since this will allow me to use the correct 2mm size bars. Anyway, after cleaning the lug area I noticed that my case has correct engravings! The 12 o'clock side of the case is engraved with Original Rolex Design 1680. The 6 o'clock side is engraved with Stainless Steel and then the serial number beginning with L. This is the part that is not period correct for my watch. A serial # beginning with L puts it at 1989, which is not correct for a 1680, let alone a red Mark I/II dial! My dial variation is from approximately 1969, so the serial should be a mid to high 2 million number. If I *really* wanted to get accurate, I could send my case to JMB and have him engrave a new serial number for me and at the same time machine a custom retainer ring for the case. Perhaps someday. In the meantime, the only engravings visible when wearing the strap are the top line, not the serial # text or 1680 text, so not having the right serial is irrelevant to me. After installing my 2mm gen spec bars into the strap, I mounted it on my watch. The result is quite nice, if I do say so myself. For one, I can finally see spring bar tips protruding through the lugholes. This is a tiny thing that no normal human would ever notice, but those of us who enjoy vintage Rolex really appreciate this detail. I just wish the tips came a little closer to the edge of the case. This might be a function of the bars that I am using. I am using Yuki bars. Maybe another set would be better? Here are some glamor shots to show off the new look: Thanks for looking!

About this time last year, TC Sub club faced a huge challenge. I was running out of usable TC 16610 and TC 16610LV dials. The dial supplier, due to China's crack down on counterfeits, stopped the rep dial production. The only thing I could do back then was to build each TC 16610 Sub and TC 16610LV Sub from the pile of dials which were taken out from QC issues. I had to first choose a dial with no scratch on the surface and then piece by piece re do the indices to the dial. During that time I wrote a short intro for TC Sub LV Type 3 but skipped the review on the TC Sub V5. I spent most of my time on piecing together the dials. Hence, many new members who did not follow my blog from the beginning were probably confused. If you do not know the story, please read Bumps in the road - 16610 dial maker and the following TC Sub LV Type 3. OK, let begin. A Submariner 16610 watch consists of 7 major parts or part assemblies. They are "watch case set", "bezel insert", "dial", "hands set", "crystal", "bracelet", and a power engine, the "movement"; To make a proper Submariner 16610 rep watch, we have to add on 2 more important parts. They are "date wheel overlay a.k.a DWO" and "movement holder". Watch Case Set TC Sub V6 is based on the tried and true TC Sub Watch Case Set. This is actually the second case set I picked up. It's a keeper because it has all the aesthetically gen features and constructions. That is to say, crown height at gen position, gen construction bezel assembly that houses gen insert without modding or sanding. The mid case could also house any other gen bezel assembly, gen case back, or even gen dial and movement. I wrote a blog entry to review this watch case set shortly after I picked up this hobby. If you're interested, please take a look at TC Sub Housing Gen 3135 & Gen Parts. Bezel Insert Following the Caddell Vintage Insert. It took me over an year to develop this bezel insert. If you're interested, I documented the first received batch of sapphire crystal pearl in TC Gen Spec Bezel Insert & Pearl - Project Update. I then found Rolex's secret in luming the sapphire crystal pearl in TC's Pursuit of the Perfect Sub - Progress Update. Caddell Vintage Insert is not a 1:1 to gen bezel insert. It has a curved or rounded look surface while gen is flat. However, when installed to the TC Sub V6, it provides some what of a vintage effect like those of Vintage Omega Seamaster or Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. Therefore, I throw in a Caddell Vintage Insert free of charge for each TC Sub V6 members ordered. Dial If it is not the Kensington High 16610 dial, I would not give this timepiece its designation: TC Submariner Version 6. The dial and indices looked very simple; however, I learned that the KH 16610 dial is in fact extremely complicated and troublesome to manufacture. It really tested the producer's craftsmanship and capabilities. I never knew such complicated production process were originated in the old kingdom then brought to Switzerland by Rolex. Nowadays, this progress of dial making is used only by Rolex. In my opinion, most other Swiss watch power houses cheapped out on the indices if an indices dial is used at all. Ever since the possession of these KH 16610 dial, I became addicted to these dials. I don't think I could ever go back to the old TC 16610 dials anymore. The problem is, supply of KH 16610 dial is limited and slow. The lume job was done magnificently! Hands Set The next thing I would like to talk about is, TC 16610 Hands Set V2. I have been putting the new TC 16610 Hands Set V2 on members' TC Sub V6 for a while. A forum member who's also active on gen watch forums introduced me the V2 hands set maker early this year. He bought a TC Sub V5 with KH 16610 dial and told me everything on the TC Sub is great but something is a bit off. That was the hands. Gen Rolex Submariner's hands set are a tad thicker in comparison to the old TC 16610 hands and provides more of visual 3D effect. V2 hands set is improved upon by this gen feature. The effect of the hands set along with the craftsmanship on the KH 16610's indices reaches true harmony when light shines on the dial creating the ambiance of perfection. That's something only the best craftsman in Europe can produce. That's also something we can only see in genuine Rolex watches. Gentleman, may I present TC 16610 Hands Set V2. Bracelet In my pursuit of the perfect Submariner, a good, tight, and gapless solid end link is as important as a good, clean, shiny dial. The Chinese TC 93250 V3 bracelet maker had done a great job eliminating the ugly gap whenever matching a bracelet to a TC or other rep sub mid case. The Thai TC 93250 V4 bracelet maker pushed that bar higher in making the very best coronet stamp on the clasp. However, members have reported the V4 bracelet art not as good in detail finishings. Besides, the first link of the V4 bracelet does not fold all the way in as gen does. So here it is, the TC 93250 V5 bracelet. I documented the details in TC 93250 V5 Review. Since the time I received KH 16610 dials, I felt the drive to push the bar for quality a step forward. I started to use a caliper to measure mid case lugs distance before matching bracelets. Then I found out TC Sub mid cases lugs distances have variances, and the variances may be dramatically big. So I placed an order of 2 different SEL specs from the bracelet maker this time to solve the problem once for all. The specs are 20.10 (+/- 0.02) mm and 20.15 (+/- 0.02) mm. Here's the detailed explanation: $59 TC 93250 V5. Movement The powertrain inside TC Sub V6 is TC 2824. Right after I picked up this hobby, I knew I had to find an alternative movement source other than ETA. I've tried Sellita and the Chinese but those didn't pan out. I documented the journey in TC 2824 - An ETA 2824 Super Clone Part I. Luckily I met TC 2824 maker at EPHJ, an fair that my line of trade would pay visit every year. I have only two requirements to the movement I should use. One being to perform on par with ETA standard grade ebauche. Two, it has to have H4 cannon pinion. Why it has to have H4 cannon pinion? Because an H2 would make the hands stack sitting too close to the dial when fully assembled. That is UGLY! TC 2824 maker is the only movement maker I reached out who's capable and willing to make me H4 cannon pinion 2824 movement. I dissected a TC 2824 and an ETA 2824, and made a side by side review in TC 2824 - An ETA 2824 Super Clone Part II. Date Wheel Overlay The Date Wheel Overlay is a thin stainless steel overlay with gen or gen like font dates printed on it. It has to be manually attached or glued to the 2824 movement's original date wheel in order to display dates in the right position of a gen Rolex 3135 movement in a rep watch. I hated doing so in the beginning because it is damn difficult to get it right. But there is no other way around if a 2824 movement is to be used in building the rep. I learned to appreciate doing it a little while later because it requires me to fully focus with no fuzz in mind in order to execute the task correctly. I realized in doing so, it really provided me a peace of mind. This is exactly the reason I picked up this hobby after an ugly divorce. I needed peace in mind. DWO in TC Sub V6 is the 4th version I cooked up along the journey. The first and second version were supplied by the TC Sub Watch Case Set maker, in plain English, the original rep 16610 maker. TC DWO V1 and TC DWO V2 does not transcript gen Rolex date font 100%. Thus I took a detour to Japan during a business trip to Asia and made TC DWO V3. Although TC DWO V3 is a direct transcript of gen 3135 date wheel, font and position. It often sits left justified in the dial's date window when fully assembled. To correct this issue, I made another detour to Japan and made TC DWO V4. TC DWO V4 has the correct white base color. The font is genuine Rolex. The date print is raised in high gloss. And the best thing is, it sit spot on the center in the dial's date window. That's about as detailed and thorough review covering all the latest parts or part assemblies of a TC Sub V6 can get for now. Some more V6 shots. Thanks for reading. TC 8/24/14

Hi guys, Some pictures of my new Tudor Submariner 7928. - Tudor Submariner with Rose dial - Josh Case - Rep custom folded link bracelet - Rep "No Name" endlinks - Caseback engraving by JMB - Vintage relume (dial and hands) by The Zigmeister - Lollipop second hand replaced and lumed by The Zigmeister - Genuine T-19 crystal - Dia 39mm x 13mm Thk Enough said, let the pictures do the talking! Some pictures after I bleached the insert: I hope you enjoyed the pictures!

Dear All, I've got a really pretty Rolex Submariner, 2014. Blue lume. The movement is a 3135 one. I'd love to share my pictures with you guys, and hear your opinions. (Just be honest, I can take critics!) If you have any tips, tricks or whatever; I'd love to hear them. Enjoy! Leave your feedback! Thanks!

Hello All, I wanted to compose a list of Submariner "tells"; I know there are a bunch of various model. Let's make a list for the most popular Submariner; 116610LN Submariner Ceramic date. We're not going to make a list of-dummy tells for dirt cheap reps, let's try to compose a list for high quality rep "tells". Let's not talk about the interior of the watch, but the exterior. (What is to be seen for the naked eye.) I know it isn't easy to just make a list, because you'll have to see things; but let's try. Rehaut misaligned. (Could sometimes occur on gens!) No micro-laser 'etched' crown @6" (Mostly found on good reps nowadays though!) Poor magnification on Date. (Less than x2.5) Uneven spacing on the date. Lume brightness does not match between hour indices, non-hour indices and hands. White bezel numbers. (Numbers on Gen. bezel are Platinum dust-filled) Incorrectly centered pearl. I'd like to hear things from everybody, so we can make a big list, for clarification. Many people will benefit from this, since there are usually members looking for perfect reps (aren't we all); this is a way to at least know what to look for! ~

I'll get us started: $57k 5513" mislabeled in the auction with no serial or movement photo's... PCG case too. Feel free to share more!

Hey everybody, I am looking for a Sub and have a few questions..When it comes to trusted dealers (ie. Honts), are they really using gen swiss ETA movements if that is what their product description shows? Furthermore..can anyone direct me to the best rep sub close to this full gold My budget is basically anything under 800$, but I can budge for 900$..thanks everyone! Other watches I am interested in: green sub Can anyone point me in the right direction please? Last, but not least, are there ANY sellers that would consider taking bitcoin as a payment form??

...and no, I don't mean sandwiches, while I do love those as well. Lately I've been debating whether or not I should finally take the plunge (pun intended) and buy a Sub. Something I could hit the water in my imaginary 73 foot yacht with, then dry off, put on my power suit and look just as good in it at work. With the release of these new V5 models from Noob, I've been VERY tempted. Only issue is, I, being as indecisive as I am, have been flip-flopping between the date model and no-date model. I've even had the occasional thought of going gen *gasp*, but that wouldn't be for a while. It seems like this newest batch of Subs is the most accurate yet, but I am by no means an expert. Please bombard me with wristies of your Subs so I can come to a firm conclusion of which model I want to buy (or end up even further confused). Thanks mates.

Hi all! Took delivery of this a while back...haven't had a chance to type this up. TC was very responsive from the start and after 7 weeks of anxious waiting, it finally got delivered to my office. I was like a kid on Christmas day! I requested for the insert to be left unmounted as I was planning on sourcing a gen insert. The TC 16610 insert came packaged separately and looks like quite an improvement from the previous version. Although side-by-side with a gen, there's some scope for improvement with the pearl. Not criticising TC's efforts whatsoever as I can see why it's such a challenge as the gen is truly remarkable. TC is a true artist and gentleman in every sense. I'd been studying these at second hand watch shops throughout London for months prior to receiving the watch and was very impressed by it. A common comment that's made about the TC bracelet is that the first link is stamped with 93250, but in my "research", I was surprised that I encountered quite a few re-conditioned 16610s did not have it. Apparently Rolex stopped doing it in later versions and in later phases of production. Out of the box, the bracelet was a little stiff compared to the gens, but as TC has pointed out in his blog, this is a CNY350 vs a USD1000 gen. A very resourceful member posted about a bracelet "spa" treatment, which involves soaking the bracelet overnight in Johnson's baby oil, which worked like a charm. Feels fantastic now. I must admit, the middle section of the SEL appears to be raised higher than the gens I've seen, so I'm a bit unsure about that. TC reckons that the sample used as datum had such raised middle sections, but I am yet to encounter one. Has anyone out there? The crown stamp on the buckle is not quite as clearly defined as a gen, but is far better than any other rep I've encountered. The bezel click is fairly close to a gen too, although is not quite as smooth. The KH dial is a work of art and is what carries this tightly executed package. The lacquered sheen on the dial, the silver surrounding the dials, the print on the dial is executed to an incredibly high standard and is what sets the TC v6 in a different league from the others. The lume is perfectly applied and glows in the same colour and intensity as the gen insert! That cannot be easy to do! The latest DWO is also fantastic, being slightly raised, and with a slight gloss, it really does "scream gen"! The crown is excellent too, as well the CGs. Difficult to distinguish from a gen, even when placed side by side due to the variances between the gen production series'. I have felt compelled to wear it every day since I received it and can't stop looking at it. It's like wearing a piece of art on my wrist. Oh and lastly, it keeps great time too

Was surfing eBay for spare parts and came across this "gen" 16610 bezel insert. The pearl looks off to me, but I admittedly have a tough time telling with this one. Legit or no?

A friend of mine who previously owned a gen 16613 really likes my tc sub v6 but he has not the money to pay 550usd and he's not that aware of flaws as we are on the boards So my question is where I can find the best 16610 from our TD's. Trusty has one which looks fairly nice but as much as I am aware this is not the noobmariner right? Is the noobmariner 16610 still the beste (except TC sub) we can get from our dealers? Moreover I have a spare caddell vintage insert lying around at home and want to know whether this would fit or not? Thanks for any inputs, Cheers

Saw this over at vintage rolex market... Can anyone shed any light? http://www.network54.com/Forum/207673/message/1420467476/FS-+ROLEX+9315+bracelet+w-+280+ends+12+links+super+nice+condition+%282+X%29+....+USD1180+each

Hi all. Sorry if this is the wrong area to post but I'm looking for your thoughts on who'd be a good trusted vendor for a two-tone submariner. Either blue or black is fine. It's for a Halloween costume so I'm definitely looking for something very cheap (<$100 if at all possible). I don't care how "authentic" the tiny details are as long as it says Rolex and functions as a watch should. Thoughts?