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  1. This particular watch is a BK TW with gen crystal, gen bezel insert w/ superlumed pearl, swiss movement, noob hallow mid link bracelet and WM9 clasp. I'm not exactly sure how this particular combo was created but I would assume the gen crystal is to fix the issue with the over sized etching with the rep crystals. The insert of course is to fix the issue of the pearl and perhaps the font of the numbers. The crystal and bezel insert was installed by RSH. The bracelet has ok SEL but I'll go into more detail with that later, as well as the clasp. Here's a few pictures of the complete watch: Glamour shots: Wrist shots: Keep in mind that this review watch has gen parts so the base TW may not look the same but you can get an idea of what it can be like with gen parts and how it plays with the TW case. Case: First off, let's take a look at the case itself. Here it is on its own without bracelet/strap: You can see that the watch isn't the typical factory watch by examining the bezel edge. It is very well defined and has nice polished/brushed finish. You can also see the CG has a more gen like shape and spacing around the crown. Of course it features triple lock like the gen. Another thing you might notice is the rehaut depth and slope. The rehaut is not shallow nor does it have the slope you see on other reps such as the noob. Another thing worth mentioning is the circle where the crystal meets the case. You'll see a dark ring around it, BK mentions that this is only possible with a gen like constructed case. This give it a distinctive look that other reps do not have. Here you can see the well defined edges and stamping of the crown. The crown has excellent definition on the teeth and the stamping of the logo is sharp. It is cleaner than the one on my noob GMT rep that I used to for my review against a gen GMT. The sides of the case is well made and the polish is quite good. The edges of the case is sharp. The noob GMT I reviewed had dull edges and case end while the gen GMT has sharper edges and pointy ends. The TW case does a good job replicating this. The back edge of the case is very sharp and and the ends are pointy. I might say even more pointy than my gen! The ends have the proper diagonal brushing as per gen. The case back has very good finish and the brushing looks spot on with the case back of my gen GMT. One thing I want to point out is that the case back teeth is well defined and sharp, very gen like quality here. However I would like to point out the engravings between the lugs. The engraving is a bit thin and on my particular case the word design is misspelled as "desing". I asked BK about this issue and was told this wasn't the case in earlier productions but the issue is present on all the cases he currently has on hand. Dial/lume/hands: I believe the dial is the standard TW dial with lume done by PBdad (TW sub may come with the WM9 dial). The font and spacing is spot on with the gen. I noticed that in other reps the "L" in ROLEX is not aligned properly under the Rolex crown logo. The dial is finished in high gloss black with clean dial markers. You can see that the markers at 12, 6 and 9 have thicker surroundings vs the rounded markers. This is also a unique feature of the TW sub. http://i.imgur.com/v5aFJ.jpg The lume application done by PBdad is top notch! Even though it was relumed, the marks do not have the dome/bubble effect. The layer of lume is very consistent and smooth throughout. The brightness of the lume is almost as good as my gen GMT IIc. The color is a bit darker. The lume matches the gen pearl's lume color perfectly. The lume also lasts overnight, but not as long as my gen. TW sub against my gen GMT IIc The hands are also superlumed but I'm not sure if it was done by PBdad or the factory. It too has clean application with no lume seen on the edges and glows uniformly with the markers on the dial. Here's a comparison of the date font compared to my gen GMT IIc. Slightly different, but the printing is very clean and well centered. Crystal (GEN): The gen crystal sits on the case with the correct height. You can see more of the ring of darkness between the rehaut and the crystal. Since it's a gen crystal, the etching is only visible through bright light or magnification. Bezel/pearl (GEN): I believe the bezel has a gen like construction as well. The edges of the case has sharp teeth that are well defined. It feels the same as my gen GMT IIc. The insert sits in with a slight recess which is true to the gen. With this recess, it gives an extra sparkle around the insert. The operation of the bezel on this particular watch is a bit tight, not sure if that's how it was when it left from BK's hands. However it does not have any play at all! Each click is distinctive. Here's a shot of the gen pearl. as perfect as one can get If any of you are planning to get the gen insert for the TW/WM9 cases, do it! It's worth the investment not having to worry about the pearl! You can pick up mint/new inserts over at TRF for less than $200-250; LV ones would run you maybe $100 more. Bracelet/clasp (noob/WM9): The previous owner swapped the TW bracelet and clasp with a noob bracelet and WM9 combo. The noob bracelet has the correct hollow mid links as apposed to the solid ones on the TW bracelet. I had rebrushed the entire bracelet for a more true to gen look. The SEL fitment is not too bad but the spacing between the bracelet and the side of the case can be more leveled. I'm not sure how it is with the standard TW bracelet. However i find that it is quite easy to remove and install the bracelet. It may be due to the better positioning of the spring bar holes on the case or its spring bars. I have also repressed the permanent links together with a case press for a tighter fit to give it less sag. The WM9 clasp has very good engraving and the joints are well made with very little play. However, the space between the two parts of the clasp has brushing that goes perpendicular to the rest of the clasp. This can be fixed by polishing and rebrushing the area in the correct direction. Movement: All BK TW subs come with a verified Swiss movement. This particular one has the 2836 movement. The winding mechanism feels smoother than the Asian movements in my previous Rolex reps. Over the course of 3 days it ran -8 seconds behind my computer's time. This is very good considering it has not been serviced or regulated. Conclusion: I enjoy this watch very much for its gen like feel and quality for a fraction of the price of the gen. It is well made and you can feel the high craftsmanship that went into manufacturing the case. After having the bracelet links re-pressed, the presence of the watch on the wrist felt much more solid. One of the issues with Rolex reps that I've own is the bracelet and that is often overlooked. The only cons that I have with this particular watch would be the lug engraving (not a big issue since you can't see it when a bracelet is installed), and the spacing of the noob bracelet with the TW case. All in all, this was a wise investment for such a high end rep. Saves me from buying the gen Hope you guys enjoy this watch review as much as I enjoy the watch it self.
  2. I always recommend members to go get a gen 16610 insert for a reason, it is simply just beautiful! Beautiful how? Our eyes and our brains conceive its beauty but we can not always translate that beauty into plain English. My interpretation of that beauty is a flat and matte insert plus a well polished pearl holder plus a shiny corundum pearl. In my quest for the perfect Submariner 16610, the insert along with its pearl has always been a big challenge. This very specific part is actually an assembly of the aluminum insert, the corundum pearl, and the pearl holder. There is luminescent applied carefully and evenly within the pearl holder so the pearl could "glow in the dark". When I started the insert project in 2012, I thought the pearl holder is made of stainless steel. So I took the liberty being a partner of a local metal part manufacturer and made a batch of the pearl holder. Those stainless steel pearl holders were on every Caddell vintage insert I shipped out along with TC Sub V6 as freebies. This April, a member who bought a TC Sub V6 wrote me saying he has a theory: the gen pearl holder may be made from the same material as the KH 16610 dial indices. So I asked my friend to make me some samples to see if this theory is true. I had to use my microscope since this is late in the night and I couldn't capture anything clearly with my Canon. This is the stainless steel pearl holder on Caddell vintage insert. This is the new pearl holder I just received. How do you like it, gentlemen? TC 10/10/14
  3. Okay, next question about a gen Tudor that I bought 15 years ago. I remember being really impressed at the time of purchase with the lume, but as the years have gone by, the lume has faded to nothing. And a couple of years ago I managed to chip the sapphire (just under the cyclops, tiny but it's there) and one of the links in the bracelet has managed to buckle, not badly but it spolis the look. I'll post pictures when I get home. My questions are: 1. Is it worth having the dial relumed? Or is it just better being 'authentic' and lumeless 2. How much should I be paying to have the sapphire replaced? 3. A buckled link? How on earth am I gonna fix that? Can I actually buy a single link anywhere? Or am I in for a whole new bracelet?
  4. As I promised I shoot some photos. Omega Seamaster 2054.50 VS Rolex Submariner 14060M COSC. Be patient as I prepare this set... In the mean while check this one, just for teasing...
  5. I knocked my Rolex Submariner MBW 1680 against a fence in my yard and the bezel fell off. I could only find the bezel and not the washer/spring that goes between the bezel and the watch and now the bezel is very loose and spins around to easily. I hope someone can help me with these questions: 1) I see that there are 2 parts that hold the bezel tight a tension spring and a friction washer. Is this correct (see attachment)? If so, which one goes first? 2) Where would be a good place to order these parts online? Thanks for your help Bezel_Parts.tiff
  6. It took me a while to complete it, but it is now done !!!! My pointed crown guard Sub with 3,6,9 gilt dial !!!! Specs : Bezel & Insert sourced in Thailand Cartel Polex mid case slimmed from the top to lower the bezel sitting and have the crown appear higher. Welded on the crown side to create enough metal to carve an accurate crown guard. Then, totally reshaped all around. DW caseback Cartel bracelet links and end links Gen deployment Cartel PT 702 crown modified to 700 Clarks crystal Dial & Hands from Yuki Now to the pics :
  7. I am wanting to get a decent quality 50th anniversary Submariner and need help and opinions from some of you guys. I love replica's but I am no where near an expert. I heard That King Watch was a trusted seller and I have one that I picked. I just want to see if it is something worth purchasing. Here are the Specs It has Swiss ETA 2836-2 Black 268 Movement SS Oyster Bracelet with Diver extensions 40mm x 12.5mm thick Material One piece forged 316 Stainless Steel Sapphire Crystal Close 6 and 9 I wish i could post a link, but i can't The price is $245 and I am willing to pay more for a better replica, up to $350. Let me know if this is one I should get or if anyone has better suggestions?? Thanks!!
  8. Hello. I'm about to offer this watch for sale, but I need to know as much info as I can on this watch. What I know is that the bezel and bezel insert are aftermarket and it is bigger than the original as the "big crown" that is supposed to be on this watch doesn't fit. I purchased the 6538 big crown on ebay but when we had our watchmaker try to install it, it didn't fit. I'm thinking the dial is refinished as well. The serial is worn down and not readable, but the model number is readable. Here are some photos if anyone else knows anything more about this watch and what you think it could sell for, I would appreciate it very much. Thanks in advance. Carolyn
  9. Hey guys, I went to a Jewelry store today to try on watches, and some worker told me to check out ttw888.com for a cheap submariner. Can anyone give me advice or send me good replicas? Thanks
  10. With all of the amazing big crown builds and super "genkens" on display recently, I am really itching to bite the bullet and try working on a budget Silix build to get my feet wet in the big crown world. If this works out well, I am going to make a decommissioned 6538a with 3,6,9 dial and red depth rating for my second build. There is a gorgeous example on Hodinkee that I am in love with, so that's my grail until I am eventually able to devote the time and resources to build a big crown genken. To get started, however, I am going to go with the classic 6538 as my initial attempt. My parts list so far is this: - Silix classic 6538 complete watch with rivet bracelet. I know the 7206 bracelet is going to be crappy, so if I can't salvage it I will have to put it on a nice distressed leather band until Yuki or another supplier gets them. - Athaya V2 crown and tube. - Either Yuki pearl or Athaya pearl. Not sure which one is the better replacement? - OnlinestoreHK big ball white seconds hand. How much better is the HR branded 6538 dial versus the Raffles recent superlumed dial offerings? Ken now sells both a 3,6,9 6200 dial as well as a 6538 dial that appears to be nearly identical to the branded HR dial, but at half the price. Is it worth it to spend the extra money for the HR dial on my first budget build, knowing full well that I am going to age the dial anyway and brush various household colorants on it and bake it? Or is the Raffles dial going to be good enough? The standard out of box Silix and Raffles dials are the same and have that awful/strange color tone to them, but the new Raffles dials with superlume look pretty nice. I plan to practice my aging skills on the stock dial and then move over to the nicer dial once I have a steady hand. Any suggestions are welcomed. I've been kicking these tires for so long that my toes are quite sore, so I figured it's time to bite the bullet and get started. I'm pretty busy at home with 3 little boys ranging from 10 months to 6yrs old, so this might take me a while once I actually start buying the various parts. Thanks guys!
  11. Hey guys only my second post here but was just looking to find out if anyone was selling a replica sub or could suggest a good model. I bought one from Iparadisiac but was disappointed. The magnification is less than 2.5 and the black on the bezel marks up easy. I reckon its a vinyl. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Many thanks Neil
  12. OK, so if you read my other, long-winded post (story), you know I've been Anxiously waiting for its arrive. Well the watch has finally landed. So here are the specs of my new Franken 16610 Build: Yuki 3135 Movement – Fully Serviced by Mike ST Case modified by E Gen Dial with Gen Matching Hands (originally came together) Gen Insert Gen Date Wheel - Brand New Gen Crystal & Gaskets - Brand New Gen Crown - Brand New Gen Tube Gen Springbars Gen Main Spring, Second Hand Pinion, Cannon/Minute Pinion & Date Click Spring TC Bezel Assembly TC V4 Bracelet And of course, the Lume-Shot: These are just some quick-n-dirty iPhone pics. I'll post some better one's later tonight. Thanks to E for the case & his reshaping work. BIG thanks to Mike for his parts, patience, outstanding movement service and of course the BUILD! Your service is Top-Notch Dave...
  13. Hi friends, It's been awhile since i've dealt with sourcing parts or trying to mod anything. I'm now feeling like buying a sub or a gmt master rep and mod it with some gen parts. (Used to have a secs@9 daytona two years ago, which I've wanted to mod - already had the gen crown, tube and pushers, eventually ended up selling all of the parts and the watch due to the lack of time) What's the correct tap to use for a gen tube fit for a modern submariner \ gmt-master ? (they both have the same tube if i'm not mistaken ? and I haven't decided yet about which one i'm gonna get and mod) and I'd be glad to know if any member of rwg is selling them, I'd better buy from him than someone else Many thanks! db
  14. Just completed my latest 1520 cal-powered franken Submariner Prototype build: loving it What do you guys think? Gen here: http://rolexpassionreport.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/rpr_IMG_2263.jpg
  15. Hi guys, following the description on one of Trusty's listings: http://www.ttw888.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_7&products_id=10893&zenid=158642ddbadfb457ca51a119b242ff00 "External Dimension is 1 : 1 against the Genuine... All External Parts are interchangeable with Genuine...." The same description can be seen on the GMT master rep listing. Is it legit ? e.g. could I fit a gen crown and tube without re-tapping and without doing any adjustments ? how about a bezel assembly ? or a gen dial , crystal etc.. (The plan is to buy the rep with an asian ETA, and fit gen tube+crown, gen bezel assembly+insert, gen dial and maybe also gen crystal later on ) Any help will be appreciated. Many thanks! Db
  16. I am looking into purchasing a TC sub soon. I prefer the cleaner no-date look for subs but I am having a hard time finding a no-date dial. I prefer not to go ceramic if possible. Any ideas folks?
  17. Just received my Black Submariner 16610 rep from Andrew at Trusty Time. Was a little worried about customs as was shipped EMS over the last week or so but no such problems! Very very impressed. It's my first rep so starting at the shallow end. It's just your basic Asian movement $160 rep so not looking for perfection but thoroughly impressed. If I had a couple of small criticisms it would be that the bracelet feels a little sharp at the edges and more 'jiggly' than i'd expect a gen to be. Again, for $160 it still feels quality and looks 100% the real deal. The other point is that there is a teeny tiny mark on the inside of the bezel pearl, so small I couldn't get the camera to show it. You can hardly even see it with the naked eye. Only just slightly if looking at it from a certain angle, and then you'd still have to know it was there. One rep in I'm already wondering what my next one will be, oops! Will get some wrist shots once I've removed a couple of links this evening. Apologies for the photos - only got my iPhone with me at the moment and certainly no David Bailey!
  18. Hello all, Im new to this brand, and know (ashamingly) little about the intricate details and versions of cases, dials, etc. (My playing field, as until now, has been the IWC Area.) And so I ask of the experts... Is there a distinct difference between the watches linked below, and in what sense do the movements differ? Is the 3135 "smoother" than the 2836? http://tswatchltd.com/14389-ro14389-submariner-black-ceramic-noobfactory-ss-no-date-v-asian-3135.html http://tswatchltd.com/14312-ro14311-submariner-black-ceramic-noobfactory-ss-no-date-v-asian-2836.html And, perhaps, a more relevant question, which one is closer to the gen....? Thanks a lot for the help! I would really appreciate it!
  19. You guys that choose DSSD/SD over subs or subc is it mainly due to the cyclops issues or what is it that makes those models more appealing? I notice more of the former being sold or traded but noob v2 for example tends to rarely come up. Just curious what your thinking was when deciding to buy one over the other.
  20. To all the modders around the world: I am working on designing my own watch, which is partially based on a sub mid case. I need to have a prototype put together ASAP, and the factory I'm working with is taking its time. Does any modder have a sub midcase that they can reshape for me, whether it be a 16610, 1680, 5512, or 5513? Even if it is from a canal street grade rep, it may be fine. The crown guards would need reshaping, the midcase would need to be thinned, and the lugs would need some reshaping a bit too. Who can offer some assistance with this? Thanks!
  21. Hi all, The noob v3 still has the same white insert color, so platinum mod is on the table. Can you recommend a CONUS modder who can do all of the following: 1. platinum mod 2. relume with tritec bg-w9 3 - n. WR, DWO or cyclops alignment if necessary, regulation? Thanks in advance!
  22. Hi all, A year ago exactly I purchased a Swiss ETA-2836-2 25j automatic Submariner. The watch was great, could leave it off for days with everything still ticking on, no loss of time. Recently it has been playing up. I'll take it off and it'll stop within the hour. It doesn't keep time. Falls behind over a day. I know the movement was second hand in the first place, but this seems odd for a swiss 25j movement? It's acting like an Asian 21j cheapo. Anyone have any thoughts? Or is this normal? Thanks v much
  23. Hello all! Earlier this week I bought my first Rolex replica after a long (long long long long long) time searching, reading and asking questions. Please welcome my Rolex Submariner Ceramic Noob V1. If this looks boring, and it probably is, just skip to the pictures! (i'm sure they will do some justice!) Why Did I Go With The V1: Trust me, I know the V2 is out! But if I were to buy it and spend the $300+, I only wanted to buy it new with a Asian clone mvnt. Pureti.me was the only person I was talking to about Stock availability in the V2, and they kept telling me 2 weeks until they get it in... 1 week passed, 2 weeks passed, 3 weeks passed and still no stock for them. So I decided to spend less money on a V1 and live with the flaws! It has nothing to do with the differences between the V1 and V2, I simply bought it since I was eager to have my first rep Rolex! My First Thoughts: I definitely never noticed how white Rolex' lume applicator was until I went in a local Rolex store and took a peek. By the looks of it, the V1 doesn't have many flaws... Okay maybe if you know your watches and get in its face then you can tell the flaws, but the quality of this watch is amazing. Flaws I've noticed w/ out Having to go Back to the Books: By this, I mean what I noticed myself that differed from my genuine Rolex research without having to go back on the Forums and ask questions or search for differences of my V1 to the Gen. It seems like the flaws are minimal. I bought this watch via M2M and the previous owner did a Bezel paint mod and waterproofed and tested. With that it is very gen-like already. However I did noticed the minute markers do not reach the reheut, the 'm' in '300m' is not spaced away from the '300' enough and not italicizes enough. (I have not done research on the following so don't judge me). --> the pearl is definitely off on this one. It is centered to the triangle, however, if you can tell in the following pictures - the previous owner must have accidentally brushed the paint on the pearl while trying to do the bezel paint mod. This is not that big of an issue to me as I am currently searching for a replacement Bezel + Pearl. As for the bezel, I don't know much about the difference with the gen. ceramic and rep. noob ceramic so I will let you all be the judge of the. The bracelet feels light to weight but the fit and feel is as comforting as a leather strap. Ok maybe I'm exaggerating... The brushed S/S is a nice look but the 314L definitely does not compare to Rolex' 904L S/S uses. I can already notice some wears and marking just from moving the adjustment clasp up and down. The date-magnifier gets a lot of reflection and does not look gen-like at all when taking a close look, or even when trying to take a picture of the watch outside. From what I remember, I will need to have the mag AR? coated. Future Expectations (modding): - I don't know if it would fit, but I'm thinking of buying a Noob V2 bracelet from another member who has an extra one lying around and try to fit it in. - I definitely want to replace the ceramic bezel and pearl on this one, something doesn't look right to me and I can't put my eye on it! From here I will need to do some more research on modding a Rolex to decide what else is necessary for mine to look more gen-like, but I will definitely appreciate any suggestions! The main reason I wanted to write this review: I wanted a better eyes opinion. Not because I can't live with it, I love it, but I would like to know what you noticed that I haven't. This will help me in the future when buying Rolex. Do you think there are major differences between the Noob V1 and Noob V2?: No, honestly a replica watch is a replica watch, each will have its own flaws, they will never be spot on but like we all say, buy it if you can live with its flaws! And I'm still living. . . . . _____________________________________________________________________________________________ Now for the close-up shots. Bezel Close Up (paint mod outcome) Pearl Close Up (I believe you can see the paint on Pearl.) Direct View of Dial Well, for now that's all. I look forward to reading your comments, replies, remarks or suggestions! Thanks for looking
  24. Just came across this photo. Awesome close up of the rehaut on the Submariner
  25. I could use some expert advice on removing and replacing the Ceramic Bezel on my 116613 SUB TT with Swiss ETA 2836-2, purchased from Andrew. One of the link screws came out and the watch slid off my wrist and hit the pavement almost flat on the Crystal. Not a scratch other then the Ceramic Bezel Pearl Dot broke off/shattered and a piece of the Bezel came with it. I temporarily glued it back on with a tinny dab of super clue. So I ordered a replacement Bezel from Andrew.....and here I am let me qualify that I love this watch! keeps great time and looks awesome! Need the Help on: 1) Good Procedure for removing the old Bezel. 2) Procedure for Replacing with the new Bezel. Also recommendations for adhesive. I have been reviewing the posts and read where you remove the pearl and use a dental pick to lift off the old Bezel through that opening. Confirmation and or better step procedure would help. I have also seen pictures or reworks where it looks like the Bezel was glued on. I would hate to screw this up - some part of me wants to just purchase the lesser expensive Asian movement equivalent (no offense, I have several others and so does my son) and just swap out the movements which should be straight forward.
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