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Found 16 results

  1. Hi all, Hereby some pictures of my "grail watch". My Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 15400 with blue dial. Enjoy!
  2. So, I can remember joining the rep world and asking the same question everyone asks " What is the best Rolex Sub?" Well, It's been a while since those days and now I'm asking a similar question for a different watch and model, the AP 15400. The AP 15400 has me obsessed. I am considering this one: https://puretime03.com/royal-oak-41mm-15400-ss-jf-11-best-edition-black-dial-on-ss-bracelet-a3120.html# Is this the best 15400 rep yet? any recommendations? Any major flaws? I've read a bunch on here and seen the comparisons but not much since April 2016 on this topic. I see JF is the best, but is this a newer JF? I know that thickness has been an issue, and that kind of bothers me. It reads 10.5 but I'm being told its actually 10, which would be fantastic because the gen is 9.8. Let me know!
  3. This is actually my "grail watch". The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 15400 black dial.
  4. find this a truly beautiful piece. been thinking about getting it but want to see some wristies first, just got a v6f 15400 but the chrono would be nice esp. as a quartz for a daily beater... so id be more than happy to see some pictures first (non TD)
  5. If making a franken 14790 with gen dial and hands(found)... Which movement to use? A JLC 889 would be nice, but I'm afraid its far too expensive and rare... So i was thinking a 2892 and an EDGE DW! Does that sound reasonable? Are the hands "crimpable" on the movement? BPH should be right for AP cal. 2225 ... right? Also, is the current latest version 14790 case and bracelet "good enough" to make a franken build reasonable? Like the 14790 b/c of the closed caseback.... Gen bracelet, possible? Thanks in advance! Rille
  6. Can somebody point me in the direction of their favorite ROO? It's time to buy one so I just wanna make sure I make the right decision the first time. I want to do as little modding as possible because I'm lazy and impatient. I'm still willing to do it if I have to though. So I want it to look as close to an original as possible right out of the box. This is my favorite that I've dug up so far, but I don't care for the rubber bezel. Looks like a dust and lint magnet to me. http://www.intime.co/product.php?id_product=944
  7. Hi guys, any chance the experts know whether this watch exists/once existed? Been searching through the web but cannot find a trace.... http://www.torobravos2014.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=18_49&product_id=910 Thanks
  8. Hi there, Need 8 screws and nuts for a genuine Royal Oak Lady (cf. exact model attached) ! Many thanks in advance. Julien
  9. Hi guys, so ever since being into watches, Ive always loved the IWCs. The other day though, it hit me. Damn, APs are cool, and Jesus do they look good! Why did I never see that? Now Im here and am about to pull a trigger on an AP ROO. But which one? This one? Or this one? I have never been in contact with AP before, (and yes, I regret it), so I am asking the AP Experts in this forum, the following questions: 1. Which one would you choose? 2. How do they differ (except for the colour and the case material & finish, of course) 3. And which one is closer to the genuine? It seems to me as if the "asymmetry" Ive been reading everywhere is less prominent on the first Black Theme watch than on the second Grey one. As per my questions, you can see that I have no Idea (yet) about APs, so thank you all for helping me!
  10. Hi guys! I'm usually not a huge AP fan, but this really caught my eye. Any ideas where I can find one? Yes, I know it's tacky, but I like it
  11. Does anyone know where I can get a set of rep end links for a Royal Oak 15400? I am dying to get a nice hornback strap on my Royal Oak, but the only option I can find is the AP Straps kit, and I am not shelling out 500.00 bones for end links.
  12. So I understand there are rumors about a better version of the 15400 Royal Oak that fixes the polished rehaut issue and perhaps a better rotor on a Miyota movement that Angus is involved with. Is this new version suppose to be out soon? IMHO, Im happy with the current version and possibly pulling the trigger and modding the rehaut myself. Are there that many issues with the current version that the wait for the new version is worth it? Cheers in advance for any input.
  13. Does anyone know if the leather straps for ROO date at 12 fits, it's dimensions are 28mm at the lug. I love the 41mm size, I have a beautiful black dial in a stainless case, but I would really prefer to get mine out of it's bracelet and onto a croc strap. (I do also have the smaller RO, stainless with a blue dial, on a black strap. I just really have a thing for straps, and much prefer it this way.) Note: I had read somewhere that the strap from the 'city of sails' fantasy series was in fact interchangeable here, and would install (on the RO 41mm). It so happens that I have 2 of those, the City of Sails, and it additionally so happens that one of them is out of commission anyway, a casualty of an ill advised 7750 setting blunder. As I write this, I have my RO Jumbo and my out of commission City of Sails dropped off at the shop of my favorite watch smith, and when time allows later he is going to have a look into the accuracy of this claim for me. I am thinking at current moment though that it will turn out that this is dubious advise, based on something I noticed at the last moment as I was dropping them off. What I noticed was this: the two lugs, or whatever they are called, that extend from the case on each side where the bracelet/ strap attaches, were pretty clearly two different sizes. I went ahead with dropping them off anyway, obviously.... I've got nothing to lose to let him have a look, and there's no B plan (yet) for getting my RO strapped up today. There seems to be precious little chatter to be found on Google regarding swapping a 41mm RO to a strap. However, I'm looking at my ROO date at 12 on it's leather strap, and I'm wondering now if maybe this size is actually exactly what's needed here. The two 'lugs' on each side do seem to be identical in size to those on the RO 15400. This would be an awesome revelation, if it were to turn out to be the case. I know exactly where and how to acquire replacements of these,reasonably priced, even good selection of options, etc.... Is this wishful thinking? Could anyone that has the knowledge and the time be so kind as to set me down the path of enlightenment here? (You know, most preferably the one that has my RO successfully swapped to a strap at the end?). Many thanks, Jesse
  14. The outsanding weaving pattern that forms the square and lozenge motif of “Grand Tapisserie” is decoratively engraved in a remarkable way thanks to machines that are half a century old. This highly intricate guillochage captures the light and accentuates the timepiece's geometric relief. I really wonder how the rep industry are able nowadays to replicate this so accurately !!! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K0uW37FnCLM The brass dial is engraved by a burin (a precision metalwork chisel) that reproduces the motif on a disc attached to the machine, like a pantograph. A pointer rotates across the disc from the periphery to the centre. The system is combined with a tool that forms the little lozenges between the squares,” explains engineer Nicholas Prost, who heads the decorative engraving project. The process takes between 20 and 50 minutes, depending on the dial's diameter. It's a delicate operation. A mere skip is all it takes to damage the piece as the slightest impact is as visible as dust on a mirror. As the 'piquetage' gets closer to the circle's centre, the rhythm gets faster and hails the birth of a brand new dial, ready to be sent out for the finishing processes. Since the birth of Royal Oak in 1972, the guillochage work had been exclusively subcontracted to a dial-work artisan. In order to produce this element in the workshop, the horology brand recovered 40 year old machines in Canada and the United States. The machines were then completely overhauled and improved over the period of a year before they took their place in the manufacturing process 3 years ago. Impressive ! @ all the lucky Royal Oak Rep owners (esspecially the new 15400) Please, feel free to share your expercience .... Enjoy your day ! Xel
  15. I wanted to get a few shots posted today of my new 15300. I would like to take a few more nice pics, to try and show the real beauty of this watch. When I have the time I will send a few more views, showing the crystal, the depth of the screws in the bezel, the sapphire backed movement, a side profile etc. But from the few pics I have here, you will get the idea. I am very happy with this watch and it's quality. For the money, you can't go wrong IMO. It keeps great time, smooth second hand, not choppy at all, and the dial for the most part is right on. I especially like the fact that it is the correct case dimension @ 40.5 x 9.5cm. It wears extremely well on my smallish 6.75 wrist, with no apprecialble overhang etc. When removing extra links, I have been able to modify the fit perfectly on my wrist. From previous posts on the older version of this watch I read that a number of people had reversed the bracelet because the back side in fact seemed smoother and less striated than the front. I tried that, and found that there was in a fact a benefit to to this. The back of the bracelet IS smoother than the front, and by making the conversion from back to front, it makes the watch LOOK and FEEL better. I spent sometime with a Cape Cod polishing cloth and a bit of sewing machine oil on the hinges, and it softened, polished and made the feel of the bracelet more 'buttery'. A very nice feel. I noticed too, that the sides of the bracelet are more polished than past bracelets, so more like the gen bracelet, which seems to have a higher or better polished surface than the top of the links. I recommend trying the bracelet 'flip' with your new Royal Oak. The clasp itself functions perfectly, and the AP engraving is spot on. One of the things I noticed on the previous version of the 15300 was the crystal. Seemed to me that it slightly protruded from the top of the bezel. On the newer version of this watch the crystal is flush mounted and looks correct to the gen IMO. Some have suggested that perhaps the crystal needs a good AR to better show of the 'depth' of the dial. No AR works for me. Another issue in the past versions was the AP logo at 12. I have read that it is incorrect to the gen because of a slight split between the A and the P. In doing my due diligence on the 15300 I have seen a number of gen photos showing the AP logo to have variations depending on the exact model. So to me the slight seperation is not a huge tell in comparing the gen to the rep. In fact I kinda like the look better with the slight split, rather than having the A butt up to the P. FWIW. Additionally, I like the look of the AP logo at 12, rather than the new 15400 RO which has the original look of the dual batons at 12, similar to the original 15202, but then...that's just me. The lume, (I will try and get pictures) is very well done, very clean and crisp. Makes a big difference on a sport style watch IMO. The last rep I purchased was the AP Diver. These two AP reps, the RO and Diver, are very well done. I highly recommend them. I will try and post a few more pictures later, but for those of you that have been on the fence concerning this watch, regardless of dial color, I highly recommend it. I purchased this watch from Josh, and I highly recommend his product, and service. His delivery method is the best. I received this watch in 5 working days. Not like the old days of worrying as to whether you would ever in fact receive a watch, much less how long it would take. Thanks for looking.
  16. Dear All, I just had some time to play this morning so I decided to play with my AP RO 15400, the newly released 41mm version. As I got a GREY dialed piece (me love grey) and I knew it is fantasy anyway, I wanted to get rid of that bloody glas caseback....at least make the inacurate movement not THAT visible. I found some foil that works in the copy-machine, designed a new logo on my notebook, had it print out on that foil, cut it down to fit the inner side of the glasback....unscrewed the back, placed the "decal" inside (no glue needed) and VOILA, a new star was born. Now I have a SPECIAL EDITION AP RO 01/01 named GREY ... the caseback says No.0001 anyway, so that fits the bill. Let me know what you think..... Dr. Theo
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