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  1. Hello, I have a genuine Rolex 1500 case, crystal, dial and crown. I am wanting to complete this build, obviously prices on gen movements are too pricey. I have read about putting in 2824-2 movements. Is this relatively easy? If I get the proper spacer, etc. will it work? thanks
  2. I commissioned a member of the community to construct a 19mm 7205 Rivet bracelet and it arrived yesterday He did a great job and the look and feel is great and it compliments the Ranger nicely!! Having 7.5" wrists , finding a gen spec rivet bracelet is hard. Most if not all of the gen bracelets have a max of 12-13 links where I like to wear mine a bit loose and need 15 links. not to mention that the price of these bracelets have increased significantly with some complete pieces are on ebay for big money. The icing on the case will be to find a gen clasp for it which will likely cost me....but it will be worth it as it will pair nicely with a number of my 34mm in my collection. With the smooth clasp it looks like a gay freres . I would say his workmanship is impressive. handling a viet rivet bracelet I would say that it is on par or if in fact nicer than any I have seen . Time and attention to detain are evident. Especially with the stamping Thanks again buluth I truly appreciate you work!
  3. Hello again all. Its been about a year since Iast posted any eye candy from my then obsession, ARF GMT SH3186. Since coming back, I've noticed the buy/ sell section is gone, or I can't seem to find it. I wish to respect the rules, and not try to get banned trying to advertise without permission. I've got a VRF 41 mm Datejust, on oyster w vs3235, as well as a VRF Panerai pam438 Luminor Ceramica "tuttonero" with VR 9001/B black movement. I have others as well, always buying and collecting. Since the raids, its been harder to get high quality Rollies... Id like some info. If there is a thread where I can list what I have for sale/trade, a Mod PM'ing me and directing me would be appreciated. If we can't sell here anymore, someone let me know. I've been on and off this forum for a decade, I've just not had the time to post and keep up with it as much as I would like. Awaiting some info. I've got plenty of photos and proof to show im not playing any games, and I've been a watch nerd for life. Fellow members, enthusiasts, Thank you. Kent
  4. I've been intrigued by the VR3235 since it came out, the power reserve, the new design. Since then, I've acquired several watches with this movement and have been on the whole impressed. Recently, I noticed one I was wearing had stopped, and I noticed it was fully out of power, manually wound it 40 turns, it ran for another few weeks no problem. But, the same problem happened again. I've not had another VR3235 or any movement do this to me, before I crack the case open and go for a dive I want to know if anyone has dealt with the same problem, or if it is a common occurrence with these semi new 3235's. Manually winds sets and keeps time as it should, but seems to not charge with rotor as it should. Sometimes I think its fine, then I go to sync seconds and notice it isn't fully charged after a full day of active wearing. Thanks all. Kent
  5. Rolex 5500 Explorer. A few weeks back , while buying parts for some other builds I was working on, I decided to add a 5500 dial to my order as I have yet to add one to my collection of explorers. Parts arrive and I went to work. Dial In the Gen world, this is one of the ultra rare double t<25 stamped underline dial with gilt text and gloss finish. I first aged the lume some as it just looks too perfect out of the box. After all this watch was available in the late 50s to mid 60s . Hands: originally threw some generic merc hand set on there but wasn't feeling the hour hand. I had used the second hand for another project so for this build I used a dj style seconds hand and i liked the look ...but quickly tired of them and replaced them with a set from raffles time. I had a domed crystal on the case set but it took away from the appearance of the watch. made it feel much smaller and just wasn't feelin it on this build for some reason so I swapped it for a 25-12 clarks crystal . The clarks crystal gives the watch a bigger appearance and allows clearer view and really showcases the dial compared to the domed crystal. I have a preference for the domed crystal but the 25-12 just works for this build more so in my eyes. (with domed crystal and generic hands ) I settled on hands from Raffles , which I aged appropriately to achieve the vintage look and match the lume of the dial . Truthfully the lume is darker than what I was after but the pumpkin orange tone of the lume compliments the gold hands and text and it gives the watch a warm vintage feel. I went with the display case back as it is more rolex like and resolved the display window with a service sticker mounted on the inside of the caseback. This prevents the decal from getting damaged and peeling with use. I pushed it with the aging process of the case set. I tried out a few new techniques to achieve the aged appearance and I am quite happy with the results. I feel that it gives the watch a realistic well used look without looking deliberate. Eta 2824 clone movement. I've had good luck with the clones for half the price of Gen and they beat slightly slower than Gen ETAs. Bracelet is a Raffles 19mm rivet , which I aged similar to the case and complete the build . The result.: a great vintage piece with wrist presence that offers details that the other ref in the explorer line doesn't. As always comments and criticism welcome. I may be tempted to build more of these or sell this one on if anyone is interested. but in the meantime I am enjoying it. Thanks for looking.
  6. Rolex 5500 Explorer. A few weeks back , while buying parts for some other builds I was working on, I decided to add a 5500 dial to my order as I have yet to add one to my collection of explorers. Parts arrive and I went to work. Dial In the Gen world, this is one of the ultra rare double t<25 stamped underline dial with gilt text and gloss finish. I first aged the lume some as it just looks too perfect out of the box. After all this watch was available in the late 50s to mid 60s . Hands: originally threw some generic merc hand set on there but wasn't feeling the hour hand. I had used the second hand for another project so for this build I used a dj style seconds hand and i liked the look ...but quickly tired of them and replaced them with a set from raffles time. I had a domed crystal on the case set but it took away from the appearance of the watch. made it feel much smaller and just wasn't feelin it on this build for some reason so I swapped it for a 25-12 clarks crystal . The clarks crystal gives the watch a bigger appearance and allows clearer view and really showcases the dial compared to the domed crystal. I have a preference for the domed crystal but the 25-12 just works for this build more so in my eyes. (with domed crystal and generic hands ) I settled on hands from Raffles , which I aged appropriately to achieve the vintage look and match the lume of the dial . Truthfully the lume is darker than what I was after but the pumpkin orange tone of the lume compliments the gold hands and text and it gives the watch a warm vintage feel. I went with the display case back as it is more rolex like and resolved the display window with a service sticker mounted on the inside of the caseback. This prevents the decal from getting damaged and peeling with use. I pushed it with the aging process of the case set. I tried out a few new techniques to achieve the aged appearance and I am quite happy with the results. I feel that it gives the watch a realistic well used look without looking deliberate. Eta 2824 clone movement. I've had good luck with the clones for half the price of Gen and they beat slightly slower than Gen ETAs. Bracelet is a Raffles 19mm rivet , which I aged similar to the case and complete the build . The result.: a great vintage piece with wrist presence that offers details that the other ref in the explorer line doesn't. As always comments and criticism welcome. I may be tempted to build more of these or sell this one on if anyone is interested. but in the meantime I am enjoying it. Thanks for looking.
  7. Shaken not stirred. Aka. Not another Bond Thread!!! (Pic. Heavy) Something i threw together on RWI. I thought I might share it here. What is our fascination with this sociopath, misogynistic, alcoholic, emotionally dysfunctional, sickly charming, ruthless killing machine? He might be all these things but the films and the character exude style, taste and there is a little bit in all of us that wants to escape into the fantasy world in which he resides. One really has to question the effectiveness of a secret agent whose preference for alcohol beverages is known to every bartender in every exotic location throughout the world. Anyway, lets re-visit the much written about Bond Watches. Along with Cars and women this is another area where the character displays great taste and style. However, the only thing he really chooses or seduces is the women, we know that Q (not @QueTip) chooses his cars and watches. So, Q is the man. The great thing for Bond, unlike us, is he gets them all for free. So here we go, some but not all of the 007 watches. Hours of research watching and freeze framing went into this thread lol. Joking of course but now since this watch hobby (addiction) has overcome me I cannot watch a Bond film without my finger hovering over the pause button for those minuscule glimpses of 007 arm candy. Rolex 6538. There has been some debate over the years regarding what Rolex Sean Connery wears and the provenance of it. However due to the advent of DVD and Blue Ray it is now fairly obvious. As @Thrasher is tired telling people the Connery sub is a 6538 big crown, with a silver triangle and a 2 line metres first gilt dial. The strap was generally considered to be an admiralty grey nato. We now know it was a black red and green undersized RAF strap. It was also worn on a Black leather strap in Dr. No. and From Russia with love. The RAF strap appeared in Goldfinger. Again, in Thunderball the 6538 tells the time while the Breitling Top Time tells supplies the Geiger counter. My version is the Helenarou Connery Submariner. It is a work of art in my biased opinion. Rolex 5513 An early appearance of the 5513 is displayed by George Lazenby in “On her Majesty’s secret service”. It was made more prominently worn by Roger Moore in “Live and Let Die” and “Diamonds are forever”. It had the buzzsaw bezel in “Live and Let Die” and a handy magnet for disrobing young ladies. Apart from the quirky bezel it has a feet first 2 line dial. The weird thing is when I was searching for images the photos of my watch and rivet bracelets are all over the internet lol so here it is my @JohnnyLazar built “Live and Let Die”.
  8. I have previously shared this on RWI and I will share it here as well - you guys seem to be the technical / OCD Rolex builders so I hope you will enjoy the pics And after waiting and researching for nearly a year trying to source the right parts... Theme of the build = a classic 14270 Rolex that has been through RSC (hence this 14270 will have lug holes AND superluminova dial and hands) Here are the ingredients - Gen 36mm Datejust 16233 E-series case (took me bloody 6 months to find one in decent condition) - Gen 36mm Datejust smooth bezel - Gen 14270/114270 Swiss Made dial (bloody rare to find) - Gen 603 crown - Gen Submariner seconds hand - JF 16610 LN minute + hour hand - JKhorological Swiss 25-295 crystal - Serviced Yuki 3135 from tickleshoes ...... still in search of a hollow link 78360 rep oyster bracelet The watch is practically gen at this point. If i pair it up with my gen 62510h bracelet, then it's visually indistinguishable to gen so here is my gen 16200 Datejust case that arrived via fedex Left case is gen 16200 datejust case; right case is a replica 16200 case for 2824-2 movement The rehaut is much wider (in terms of diameter) and less wokky on the gen 16200 datejust case Also, the lugs are thinner on gen case (even though my gen case has probably been polished before) Left case is gen 16200 datejust case; right case is a replica 16200 case for 2824-2 movement Crown height and case thickness is pretty much the same for both cases I installed the Yuki 3135 with the gen 14270 dial into the gen case first The usual ETA movement tab screws didn't fit between the gen case's side and the yuki movement, but luckily i have some spare gen-spec 3135 movement/case screws and they were thin enough to fit in between the gen case and the yuki movement Then I proceeded to install the hands, crystal, and gen smooth bezel And here is the final results (paired with my gen 62510h jubilee bracelet with 555 end links - but i am desperately in need of a rep 78360 hollow link oyster bracelet) At this moment, the watch is pretty much gen externally and there is no definitive way to tell that it is a franken or replica by just looking at it externally Lume shot! - the JF minute and hour hands have the same lume colour and brightness as the gen Rolex dial lume and gen Rolex seconds hand lume
  9. Since I know there are a lot of big Rolex 6538 Big Crown fans among you, I wanted to share some pictures of the 6538 GILT Hands that I've been working on for almost 3 years now. They come with Big Lollipop Seconds and are for sale in two different Lume Colors and for three different Movements. Most important information first, followed by a few paragraphs for those interested in the details Perfect / Gen-Spec for Rolex 6538 / 6538A Big Crown. Will also work for a few other references and are better than anything else available for the following references: 5508, 6536, 6536/1, Gilt 5512 & 5513, 6200 (partially) (high-res pics at the end of the post!) Lume Colors: LEFT: Eggshell (Tritium-like, light beige) RIGHT: Old Radium Light (light Yellow-ish) Movements: Rolex Cal. 1030 / 1035 / 1570 / 1520 etc. ETA 2846 / 2836 / 2824 (and a few others) Asian 2813 (aka Asian 21J) Price (including shipping): (15% discount for each additional handset within the same order). Rolex Cal. 1030: 85$ ETA 2846: 50$ Asian 2813: 30$ Only available while supplies last. There won't be a re-run once a certain movement size or color is sold out. Please note: that I will probably never recoup my investment on these, because the market for these hands is quite limited and the tooling & setup cost were astronomical. I would be insulting your intelligence if I told you that the unit production costs (or marginal cost) are higher for 1030 hands vs. 2813 hands - but in order to make it fair for everyone, I'm charging more for the Rolex 1030 hands, because whoever can put down 4-5k on a Franken, can justify 85$ on a perfect set of Gilt Hands, but for those of you on a budget who are using a super cheap 2813, every $ counts. Even at 85$, the Cal. 1030 hands are cheaper than hands from Michael Young or Phong, which are nowhere near as accurate as these. How to Order: Please send me a Private Message with the following info: Quantity, Movement and Color Your Shipping Address (need to know the country before I can send you PayPal instructions!) Vintagizing Service: For those interested in Vintagizing service (some pics below showing the oxidation), I might consider a limited run of Vintagized Hands. These will be 100$ more expensive for each handset and I will do them in batches. This is not a 24hour service, don't message me about this if you are generally impatient. It's a very time consuming process that requires full attention throughout the entire process, involves several different toxic/dangerous chemicals, safety gear, patience and an experience that is acquired by damaging a lot of handsets in the learning process. Even with practice, there is still a big risk for me of damaging the hands that I'm vintagizing, which means I have to start from scratch with a new handset. If you are interested in this service, please send me a PM and let me know! Details of the design process I went through to make real 6538 Hands: Almost every Gilt 6538 you can find on the internet has hands that look different, so it was extremely difficult to get a real original sample to work off. It was hard enough to even determine which hands are truly "original" 6538 hands and which are actually hands made for other watches like the 6536, 6536/1 or 5508 and either carelessly used by Rolex or mounted by some watchmaker later on. After 100s of hours of research over the years, I was confident that I found the real original 6538 hands on a handful of different watches, which provided me with sufficiently good resolutions and angles to reverse-engineer the hands dimensions with the help of a few mathematical approximations down to the 100th of a millimeter. Very complex process, because no photo was shot 100% perpendicular to the dial surface and there is always some perspective distortion and at 0.01mm even a small change in perspective will affect measurements. I have numerous reasons for my confidence and if you have the time to bear with me for a bit, you will know how much thought and effort I put into designing these hands 1) every part of the watches I used appeared to be original and untouched: - the red triangle bezel inserts on the watches I used as samples were in incredibly pristine condition, while showing all of the characteristics of genuine inserts from that era (if the hands had been replaced, surely the bezel insert would have been too; additionally, nobody would “waste” these pristine red triangle bezel insert on a watch that was cobbled together) - the chamfers/bevels on the case appeared to be the unpolished original chamfers - the bracelets had the same clasp code as the caseback (e.g. 1956) 2) The Dials are early "radium" dials - early dials had the lume plot @6 made of radium (and the other lume plots tritium): - Radium glows brighter than tritium; so having one bright(er) lume plot (and knowing that it was @6 o'clock) allowed them to tell the time quickly because they didn't have to guesstimate where top and bottom of the dial was located while diving in the dark. Due to the level of radiation emitted by radium/zinc-sulfide luminous material, many of these dials were changed over the years. Changed dial also likely involves a change of radium hands. So finding a 6538 with radium dial is also a good indication that the hands are also still the same as they were when the watch was originally assembled. 3) The Minute Hand on all my examples perfectly hit the chapter ring: - If you research 6538 pictures on the Web, you will see that the length of the minute hand is all over the place, depending on which example you look at. From a designers perspective, it would make sense that Rolex would pick the length of the minute hand so that the tip of the hand either hits the chapter ring itself, or at least hits the end of the tick-mark of the chapter ring. Many other early big-crowns (e.g. 6200) have hands that hit the chapter ring, I concluded that it should be the same for the 6538. 4) Big Lollipop Seconds Hand: - Early 6538s came with both Gilt and White Big Lollipop Seconds hand. They taper off towards the and the tip hits the outside of the chapter ring. Plain Gilt Second Hands come without the curvature at the edges of the added white enamel coat, so there is more contrast/definition between the hand and the background. This made it easier to get more data for my calculations. So in combination, all these signs of evidence are making me extremely confident that this is how unaltered, original 6538 Gilt hands should look like and that my measurements are pretty much identical to Genuine & Actual 6538 Hands. So what makes 6538 hands unique compared to other handsets? Minute Hand: - The Sidewalls of the Minute Hand are very thin (significantly thinner) than on other gilt hands, resulting in a wider lume area. Most other aftermarket Handsets use the same sidewall width on the hour and minute hand - which is wrong. - Tip of the Minute Hand should hit the chapter ring. Hour Hand: - The Mercedes Star has very thin lines, thinner than the mercedes star of later 5512/5513 hands - The sidewalls of the small "inner" triangle on top of the mercedes star should be thinner than the sidewalls at the base of the hour hand (most aftermarket hands use the same width for the inside of the Mercedes star and all side-walls - e.g. Michael Young) - The sidewalls of the small triangle should also taper off as they run towards the round mercedes star and not be the same width. The result of tapered triangle side-walls is that the small "inside" triangle looks more like an Equilateral triangle, while the outside triangle is much taller and looks more like an Isosceles triangle Seconds Hand: - The diameter of all 3 circles or "balls" on the seconds hand are proportional to each other. Each circle is almost exactly 3/4 in diameter than the next bigger circle, i.e. the medium circle around the tube is 3/4 of the diameter of the Big Lollipop Circle at the tip of the hand, while the small circle at the end of the Seconds hand is 3/4 of the medium circle (or 1/2 of the Big Lollipop). - The tip of the Seconds hands tapers off above the big Lollipop circle. A big issue with watch hands is that you have to work with such tight tolerances, that there will always be a difference between the CAD drawing and the mass-produced product. So the CAD design has to compensate for the "deviations" of the machine that's being used to cut the hands. Molding Costs for watch hands are very expensive (up to 1200$ for each one of the 3 hands!) and each time you make a change, you have to buy a new mold... so experimenting is definitely not cheap ;) Because the hands are so small, 0.01mm difference can alter the look significantly under a loupe (or at full screen in AutoCAD), depending on where width is being added or subtracted on the hand. The only small detail that I’m still a bit bummed over is that no watch hands manufacturer whatsoever was able or willing to produce the minute hand with the slight chamfer around the base (where the hole is). The chamfer is also present on non-rolex hands from the same era - I have many vintage handsets with chamfer in my collection, from various different swiss hands manufacturers (most of them don’t exist anymore). Let me know what you think! Pictures below show the handset with the two different Lume Color Options under two different light sources. Stock hands on the left, compared to oxidized hands: ...and finally a few pics of my custom 6538 hands, which I Vintagized by hand: Before you call out the base: I realize that the base around the hole on the hour hand is slightly larger in diameter as on Gen hands; the reason is that the base must be large enough for ETA-Sized holes (which are bigger than Cal. 1030 holes). This slightly bigger base diameter is not visible when assembled! The Lume Plot of the Hour hand is still the correct length! Old Gen Hour Hand superimposed over mine illustrates this: @dbane883 @Kime @Bart Cordell @Nanuq @rolojack
  10. Hey guys I started with a 16200 build. I ordered the following components - raffles 2836-2 case - gen 16200 silver dial - arf crown and tube - gen caseback - tudor 2824-2 hands - Asian 2836-2 because of the movement height - raffles braclet - raffles 3135 dwo this is my first official build i have worked on cartel watches before but never datejust. Are there people with the same build? if so give me some advice i have all the tools and will upload photos when everything is in here Some pictures of the dial
  11. Hello! I have found a 116610 sub replica that looks good to me for very cheap price. It comes broken, without bezel. I need help with finding bezel parts that will be best suited for it. I have already seen hack with springs and metal balls for spring clickers but don't know what to buy to assemble the bezel. Please write your opinion🙂 here are pictures from seller I'm waiting a delivery so wanted to start buying parts before it arrives.
  12. Hi Guys & Gals, This 18239 was (I believe) a StoneP sourced and Joe shaped case that was bought by RoloJack for his heat-treating/colorization project. From what I've read only a few of these cases and bracelets were a great success. The watch as it arrived from RJ was stunning but I felt it needed to go a bit further. The Date/Day didn't flip correctly, and often got stuck, and the bezel/crown lacked definition. Now movement winds like butter and the day and date discs snap over perfectly at midnight. So @mymanmatt and I sourced out some parts: Genuine smooth-as silk ETA 2834-2 movement genuine Rolex (hallmarked) white gold bezel - not a WG aftermarket piece (pricier) genuine Rolex white gold crown different day and date discs from Matt different hands from Matt upgraded sapphire/gaskets upgraded tube/gaskets to fit gen crown All in all, Matt did an incredible job taking this watch to the next level, and RJ truly got the colorization/treatment to White Gold perfect. The color on this watch is amazing. It's not a plate, it's treated steel (aside from gen WG parts) and they happen to match perfectly so cheers to RJ. It looks absolutely stunning in good sunlight and not great light, and the genuine bezel and crown really shine. This watch is not for sale, just want to share my latest treasure. Cheers all! (original sale thread: https://rwg.cc/topic/194776-sold-rolex-classic-wg-daydate-18239/ )
  13. Hi, could some one please tell wich crystal press and die diameter works best to replace a Rolex Submariner 16610 crystal retaining ring. My TC 16610 crystal pop as I try to remove the bezel. Thanks
  14. Want to buy a genuine 76100 dial. U got one, or might know where to get it?
  15. I wanna buy this replica Sea Dweller silver and gold watch, anyone who buy now?
  16. Hello guys, I have a nice Rolex GMT 1675 but am not very satisfied with the insert. Do you know where I could find high quality inserts with either VERY or MEGA fat fonts ? Either in faded state or still glossy. Many thanks in advance for the leads !!
  17. Hi Everyone, This is the first time I am writing a post. Over the last 1 week I have been browsing through various post trying to find the best 1:1 Submariner, however I am unable to come to a conclusion. I want to buy the best 1:1 clone of Rolex Submariner, can you please recommend (1) Best Model, and (2) Best Dealer I should get in touch with? Can you please recommend? Waiting for your response. Thank you
  18. Hello Guys, I am back with this lovely roulette DWO, it is based on RWG friends and spend over 20 hours reshaping the font with AI, Photoshop, etc.... And finally ! I achieve it! Print with semi-plastic with black and red ink, it is Braille, on top of the DWO as gen, not print IN the paper. This DWO is suitable for eta movement, or DG, but not gen movement sorry. The price is 70 USD Firm include Hong Kong small post, if you need it fast, please tell me when you PM me. Please Comment below if you have any question! I will answer ASAP.
  19. Hey guys, I bought a gen Rolex 1501 case with hands and dial. I was wondering if I could run into any problems, if I put my 1501 dial on a cal. 1570 which came from a 1601? My only concern is with the date wheel, since the 1501 is 34mm and the 1601 is 36mm in diameter. Thank you!
  20. And so it begins.....my first build. I started off with a cartel 1655. The movement bit the dust on me so I figured this is my chance to try my hand at modding. This tread will be the timeline . What am I building? good question. I so very badly have two watches that I want to build. A GMT Master 6542 and a Milgauss 1019. Both of which are NLA from the TD's so if you want one you gotta build it yourself. and from what I have read, neither are very good examples of the models so alot of modding would be needed to make either of them half decent . Pics for Reference..cause everyone loves pics of watches....if you dont, what the hell ya doing here?? lol After a few convos with @JoeyB I picked his brain and he was very kind to share his knowledge and experience in the 6542 build. Finding a reasonable priced Dial atm is difficult so this is why I am leaning towards the 1019 currently. the challange with the 1019 build is finding a smooth bezel to fit the cartel case. Either Way the case needs some work so I started on that and if I dont completely mess it up, I will then decide and order parts.... So I am stripped down the 1655 to bear bones. Drilled out the lugs. Broke a bit...but managed to get it out, save the case and get the rest of the lugs done. Not too bad...sorry no pics. Tonight I started on the lugs. Getting the crown tube out was a bit of a challenge as it was locktite into the case so it took some force but managed to get it out and managed not to destroy it. Next we're the lugs. A steady hand and a Dremel with first a grinding stone and then sanding drum to clean up the marks left by the stone. Looking at the pics and comparing them to the gens. I still have a bit more to go to make the case smooth for the crown. It's been a long day and I was getting hungry so I called it. Feedback , suggestions and comments welcome. I'm here to learn Thanks for looking. [emoji482] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  21. Is it true that noob v9 has produced 2 movements? 2836 and 3135?
  22. I've been getting quite a few emails about building a 6542, and I don't think I'm anywhere near an expert on these builds, but there's not a whole lot out there regarding one of these builds, so I figured I'd write up a little tutorial based on info I've scrounged up. Hope it helps! First things first, the case. To start with, The PT 6542 complete watch is not a good base. Nothing on it is gen-spec, or could be made gen-spec. Like I say, I'd go with the 1655 case and grind it down. It's a bigger case, so you could get really damn close by just grinding it down - there's no problems like the stubby CG's on the 5513s. Just do a lot of checking on VRF - find a case you like and make it look exactly like that one. I don't remember what case I used. It was a Silix case, but one of the first I ever bought. From the email I dug up (in 2011), it was a ROL170. I don't know if he has that model anymore, or if you could figure it out from the pictures. I have the pics, and the watch started out as a 6538 (kind of) - it was really, really wrong, and had things like a small crown, wrong size springbar holes, wrong bezel, and so on. My personal recommendation would be not to go with a Silix at all, if you intend on using JoeyB's bezel and insert. They're too nice for a POS Silix rep (even though that's what a few people here swear by). The case is not gen-spec in any way at all. The crystal is glued inside, not outside a lip like gen, the bezel probably won't swap over without heavy modifications, and so on. My recommendation would be actually using a 1655 rep from The Cartel. What I've seen is grinding off the crownguards, thinning the case just a bit, thinning the caseback, drilling the lugs, and retapping for a gen small crown. The reason for this is because the 1655 rep will accept a gen 116 with no trouble, and uses gen bezel construction, so the bezel should swap over with no problem. I would use a gen 116 if you can get one (or a 115, whichever it is - don't remember the exact number) because it really does sparkle and look much, much better than any aftermarket. Next, the dial. I used an Ingod 6542 dial which had the lip ground off. To my eyes, it is closest to gen. However, the lume is awful. My dial arrived with all of the lume basically rubbed off. I would have it relumed by the modder of your choice (either glow or non-glow) and you should be as good as you can get. The dial will need to be glued onto a sort of "spacer" so that it can be attached to the movement. I think it was ground down (the lip) and JB welded onto a flat disc that functioned like a dial spacer. Not sure though. The InGod dial I used was messed with by PB and JMB. Not sure what they did, but I know they both hate me for it! haha Next, the hands. I like Clarks hand, as they look a little more gen (for the old style) than anything I can find. There are flaws (like the minute hand being too short) and the tip on the hour hand is not quite the right shape, as well as the "rectangle" part of the hour hand being too short. If you look at gen pictures you'll see that the hand is a little longer than newer styles - check it out and you'll see what I mean. TBH, I don't remember where I got the small GMT hand. I think I got it from Raffles-Time, but I'm not sure. Next, the movement. I started out using the DG 2804 (or the 2813, whichever is the GMT version) and hated every minute of it. It's not as easy to swap as some people make it sound, and personally I like getting stuff working for a long while, not doing a constant tear down and repair all the time. For that reason, I used the 2836GMT. I know people can bash that movement, but if it's serviced, it shouldn't be a problem. The DWO should be a roulette, which I think someone on RWG is selling for like 20 Euros. Expensive, but worth it. Mine is OK for now, but it really does irk me and I'll probably upgrade it at some point... One of those things, you know. Finally, the bracelet. I would use either a folded 6210 Jubilee or a rivet 6636/7206 (stretch or no stretch). Those would be period correct (the first being custom at Rolex AD and the other being the PanAm standard issue). My recommendation would be to check out some on real auction sites or VRF and find one you like, and mod it to look like that. I think with some case reshaping, a good movement, proper relumed hands and dial, a good roulette wheel DWO and the Joey B bezel and insert, plus a killer bracelet you'd have a top notch 6542. Now go, and make some really awesome 6542s!
  23. Just picked up this GMT Master ii from Andrew at TT, what a great customer service experience! All questions were answered in less than an hour generally and shipping took about 4 days from shipping date to my house in the US. The Watch is a noob best edition and I must say it's 9.8/10 almost perfect! If you're looking for this Watch don't hesitate buying from Andrew he will take care of you!
  24. So I've wanted to post this for a long time now and I think now is the perfect time. This Daytona crazy is insane. With Paul Newmans Daytona selling for 17 million dollars more and more people are wanting a piece of history on their wrist. A few years ago that was me. I contacted the right people and since then I have had 2 spectacular vintage builds. Having said that the real reason for this topic is to get everyones opinion on who is the best. Rolojack or TheSociety. I have worked with Jack in the past and everything has been pretty amazing. Also, I have read up alot on TheSociety and from the looks of posts he also build really well. I want to get other members opinions on who goes down on the top 5 list. I know RoloJack really doesn't build anymore so its a sad situation. I also did not write this so we can flood all these Daytona builders. The main reason is to compare and get real life stories on peoples experiences dealing with these two. They both have different styles, Different sources, and different end products. I know RoloJack is so much more methodical and has attention to detail. I know Society has an insane collection and gets more into tropical dials, etc. With that being said I hope to hear back from you guys and look forward to reading some cool stories. If I left anyone out please members chime in. Thanks.
  25. Hello All, I’m new therefore a pain because I have so many questions that are obvious to many members, But I must start somewhere. There are many abbreviations attached to watches of which I don’t know, is there a place I can find these. I’ve recently purchased a Rolex Daytona Cosmograph (11650 I think) latest edition it cost me $658 from ‘Dtime’ it’s says it waterproofed to 50 mtrs, Once received I wrote to ‘Dtime’ and asked is it W/P for general swimming (Certainly no deeper than 30 mtrs) They have assured me Yes definitely too 30 mtrs but not beyond, Should I have it checked out anyway despite Dtime’s assurance? With these clones/super Clones is Dtime a solid reliable company? Am I overpaying? I only want the best cost to an extent is irrelevant, Yet I see on some sites same watch $150-400, is it a case of “What you pay for you get” lower grade steel, cheaper movement, non AR Etc. i have three watches I want to buy (1 per month) A Breitling Chronomat, A Cartier Panthere (Midsize) and AP Royal Oak when the model I want is in production (Its a pity I can’t attach pics to this message) So in essence I need assistance with a guide to abbreviations and the groups input about ‘Dtime’ I’m familiar with what factory does the best of certain brands. I could probably do with a ‘ Understanding Clones,copies, Do’s and dont’s 101’ So I don’t have to post what might seem Obvious questions, Is there such a thing? I’m based in The UK. Thank you for taking the time to read my post. Regards. Pics 1 and 2 is what I still want. pics 3,4,5 Is What I have Rolex Daytona Cosmograph
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