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Found 410 results

  1. Hey guys I started with a 16200 build. I ordered the following components - raffles 2836-2 case - gen 16200 silver dial - arf crown and tube - gen caseback - tudor 2824-2 hands - Asian 2836-2 because of the movement height - raffles braclet - raffles 3135 dwo this is my first official build i have worked on cartel watches before but never datejust. Are there people with the same build? if so give me some advice i have all the tools and will upload photos when everything is in here Some pictures of the dial
  2. Hello! I have found a 116610 sub replica that looks good to me for very cheap price. It comes broken, without bezel. I need help with finding bezel parts that will be best suited for it. I have already seen hack with springs and metal balls for spring clickers but don't know what to buy to assemble the bezel. Please write your opinion🙂 here are pictures from seller I'm waiting a delivery so wanted to start buying parts before it arrives.
  3. Shaken not stirred. Aka. Not another Bond Thread!!! (Pic. Heavy) Something i threw together on RWI. I thought I might share it here. What is our fascination with this sociopath, misogynistic, alcoholic, emotionally dysfunctional, sickly charming, ruthless killing machine? He might be all these things but the films and the character exude style, taste and there is a little bit in all of us that wants to escape into the fantasy world in which he resides. One really has to question the effectiveness of a secret agent whose preference for alcohol beverages is known to every bartender in every exotic location throughout the world. Anyway, lets re-visit the much written about Bond Watches. Along with Cars and women this is another area where the character displays great taste and style. However, the only thing he really chooses or seduces is the women, we know that Q (not @QueTip) chooses his cars and watches. So, Q is the man. The great thing for Bond, unlike us, is he gets them all for free. So here we go, some but not all of the 007 watches. Hours of research watching and freeze framing went into this thread lol. Joking of course but now since this watch hobby (addiction) has overcome me I cannot watch a Bond film without my finger hovering over the pause button for those minuscule glimpses of 007 arm candy. Rolex 6538. There has been some debate over the years regarding what Rolex Sean Connery wears and the provenance of it. However due to the advent of DVD and Blue Ray it is now fairly obvious. As @Thrasher is tired telling people the Connery sub is a 6538 big crown, with a silver triangle and a 2 line metres first gilt dial. The strap was generally considered to be an admiralty grey nato. We now know it was a black red and green undersized RAF strap. It was also worn on a Black leather strap in Dr. No. and From Russia with love. The RAF strap appeared in Goldfinger. Again, in Thunderball the 6538 tells the time while the Breitling Top Time tells supplies the Geiger counter. My version is the Helenarou Connery Submariner. It is a work of art in my biased opinion. Rolex 5513 An early appearance of the 5513 is displayed by George Lazenby in “On her Majesty’s secret service”. It was made more prominently worn by Roger Moore in “Live and Let Die” and “Diamonds are forever”. It had the buzzsaw bezel in “Live and Let Die” and a handy magnet for disrobing young ladies. Apart from the quirky bezel it has a feet first 2 line dial. The weird thing is when I was searching for images the photos of my watch and rivet bracelets are all over the internet lol so here it is my @JohnnyLazar built “Live and Let Die”.
  4. Hi Guys & Gals, This 18239 was (I believe) a StoneP sourced and Joe shaped case that was bought by RoloJack for his heat-treating/colorization project. From what I've read only a few of these cases and bracelets were a great success. The watch as it arrived from RJ was stunning but I felt it needed to go a bit further. The Date/Day didn't flip correctly, and often got stuck, and the bezel/crown lacked definition. Now movement winds like butter and the day and date discs snap over perfectly at midnight. So @mymanmatt and I sourced out some parts: Genuine smooth-as silk ETA 2834-2 movement genuine Rolex (hallmarked) white gold bezel - not a WG aftermarket piece (pricier) genuine Rolex white gold crown different day and date discs from Matt different hands from Matt upgraded sapphire/gaskets upgraded tube/gaskets to fit gen crown All in all, Matt did an incredible job taking this watch to the next level, and RJ truly got the colorization/treatment to White Gold perfect. The color on this watch is amazing. It's not a plate, it's treated steel (aside from gen WG parts) and they happen to match perfectly so cheers to RJ. It looks absolutely stunning in good sunlight and not great light, and the genuine bezel and crown really shine. This watch is not for sale, just want to share my latest treasure. Cheers all! (original sale thread: https://rwg.cc/topic/194776-sold-rolex-classic-wg-daydate-18239/ )
  5. Hi, could some one please tell wich crystal press and die diameter works best to replace a Rolex Submariner 16610 crystal retaining ring. My TC 16610 crystal pop as I try to remove the bezel. Thanks
  6. Hi Everyone, This is the first time I am writing a post. Over the last 1 week I have been browsing through various post trying to find the best 1:1 Submariner, however I am unable to come to a conclusion. I want to buy the best 1:1 clone of Rolex Submariner, can you please recommend (1) Best Model, and (2) Best Dealer I should get in touch with? Can you please recommend? Waiting for your response. Thank you
  7. Hello Guys, I am back with this lovely roulette DWO, it is based on RWG friends and spend over 20 hours reshaping the font with AI, Photoshop, etc.... And finally ! I achieve it! Print with semi-plastic with black and red ink, it is Braille, on top of the DWO as gen, not print IN the paper. This DWO is suitable for eta movement, or DG, but not gen movement sorry. The price is 70 USD Firm include Hong Kong small post, if you need it fast, please tell me when you PM me. Please Comment below if you have any question! I will answer ASAP.
  8. Hey guys, I bought a gen Rolex 1501 case with hands and dial. I was wondering if I could run into any problems, if I put my 1501 dial on a cal. 1570 which came from a 1601? My only concern is with the date wheel, since the 1501 is 34mm and the 1601 is 36mm in diameter. Thank you!
  9. And so it begins.....my first build. I started off with a cartel 1655. The movement bit the dust on me so I figured this is my chance to try my hand at modding. This tread will be the timeline . What am I building? good question. I so very badly have two watches that I want to build. A GMT Master 6542 and a Milgauss 1019. Both of which are NLA from the TD's so if you want one you gotta build it yourself. and from what I have read, neither are very good examples of the models so alot of modding would be needed to make either of them half decent . Pics for Reference..cause everyone loves pics of watches....if you dont, what the hell ya doing here?? lol After a few convos with @JoeyB I picked his brain and he was very kind to share his knowledge and experience in the 6542 build. Finding a reasonable priced Dial atm is difficult so this is why I am leaning towards the 1019 currently. the challange with the 1019 build is finding a smooth bezel to fit the cartel case. Either Way the case needs some work so I started on that and if I dont completely mess it up, I will then decide and order parts.... So I am stripped down the 1655 to bear bones. Drilled out the lugs. Broke a bit...but managed to get it out, save the case and get the rest of the lugs done. Not too bad...sorry no pics. Tonight I started on the lugs. Getting the crown tube out was a bit of a challenge as it was locktite into the case so it took some force but managed to get it out and managed not to destroy it. Next we're the lugs. A steady hand and a Dremel with first a grinding stone and then sanding drum to clean up the marks left by the stone. Looking at the pics and comparing them to the gens. I still have a bit more to go to make the case smooth for the crown. It's been a long day and I was getting hungry so I called it. Feedback , suggestions and comments welcome. I'm here to learn Thanks for looking. [emoji482] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. Is it true that noob v9 has produced 2 movements? 2836 and 3135?
  11. I've been getting quite a few emails about building a 6542, and I don't think I'm anywhere near an expert on these builds, but there's not a whole lot out there regarding one of these builds, so I figured I'd write up a little tutorial based on info I've scrounged up. Hope it helps! First things first, the case. To start with, The PT 6542 complete watch is not a good base. Nothing on it is gen-spec, or could be made gen-spec. Like I say, I'd go with the 1655 case and grind it down. It's a bigger case, so you could get really damn close by just grinding it down - there's no problems like the stubby CG's on the 5513s. Just do a lot of checking on VRF - find a case you like and make it look exactly like that one. I don't remember what case I used. It was a Silix case, but one of the first I ever bought. From the email I dug up (in 2011), it was a ROL170. I don't know if he has that model anymore, or if you could figure it out from the pictures. I have the pics, and the watch started out as a 6538 (kind of) - it was really, really wrong, and had things like a small crown, wrong size springbar holes, wrong bezel, and so on. My personal recommendation would be not to go with a Silix at all, if you intend on using JoeyB's bezel and insert. They're too nice for a POS Silix rep (even though that's what a few people here swear by). The case is not gen-spec in any way at all. The crystal is glued inside, not outside a lip like gen, the bezel probably won't swap over without heavy modifications, and so on. My recommendation would be actually using a 1655 rep from The Cartel. What I've seen is grinding off the crownguards, thinning the case just a bit, thinning the caseback, drilling the lugs, and retapping for a gen small crown. The reason for this is because the 1655 rep will accept a gen 116 with no trouble, and uses gen bezel construction, so the bezel should swap over with no problem. I would use a gen 116 if you can get one (or a 115, whichever it is - don't remember the exact number) because it really does sparkle and look much, much better than any aftermarket. Next, the dial. I used an Ingod 6542 dial which had the lip ground off. To my eyes, it is closest to gen. However, the lume is awful. My dial arrived with all of the lume basically rubbed off. I would have it relumed by the modder of your choice (either glow or non-glow) and you should be as good as you can get. The dial will need to be glued onto a sort of "spacer" so that it can be attached to the movement. I think it was ground down (the lip) and JB welded onto a flat disc that functioned like a dial spacer. Not sure though. The InGod dial I used was messed with by PB and JMB. Not sure what they did, but I know they both hate me for it! haha Next, the hands. I like Clarks hand, as they look a little more gen (for the old style) than anything I can find. There are flaws (like the minute hand being too short) and the tip on the hour hand is not quite the right shape, as well as the "rectangle" part of the hour hand being too short. If you look at gen pictures you'll see that the hand is a little longer than newer styles - check it out and you'll see what I mean. TBH, I don't remember where I got the small GMT hand. I think I got it from Raffles-Time, but I'm not sure. Next, the movement. I started out using the DG 2804 (or the 2813, whichever is the GMT version) and hated every minute of it. It's not as easy to swap as some people make it sound, and personally I like getting stuff working for a long while, not doing a constant tear down and repair all the time. For that reason, I used the 2836GMT. I know people can bash that movement, but if it's serviced, it shouldn't be a problem. The DWO should be a roulette, which I think someone on RWG is selling for like 20 Euros. Expensive, but worth it. Mine is OK for now, but it really does irk me and I'll probably upgrade it at some point... One of those things, you know. Finally, the bracelet. I would use either a folded 6210 Jubilee or a rivet 6636/7206 (stretch or no stretch). Those would be period correct (the first being custom at Rolex AD and the other being the PanAm standard issue). My recommendation would be to check out some on real auction sites or VRF and find one you like, and mod it to look like that. I think with some case reshaping, a good movement, proper relumed hands and dial, a good roulette wheel DWO and the Joey B bezel and insert, plus a killer bracelet you'd have a top notch 6542. Now go, and make some really awesome 6542s!
  12. Just picked up this GMT Master ii from Andrew at TT, what a great customer service experience! All questions were answered in less than an hour generally and shipping took about 4 days from shipping date to my house in the US. The Watch is a noob best edition and I must say it's 9.8/10 almost perfect! If you're looking for this Watch don't hesitate buying from Andrew he will take care of you!
  13. So I've wanted to post this for a long time now and I think now is the perfect time. This Daytona crazy is insane. With Paul Newmans Daytona selling for 17 million dollars more and more people are wanting a piece of history on their wrist. A few years ago that was me. I contacted the right people and since then I have had 2 spectacular vintage builds. Having said that the real reason for this topic is to get everyones opinion on who is the best. Rolojack or TheSociety. I have worked with Jack in the past and everything has been pretty amazing. Also, I have read up alot on TheSociety and from the looks of posts he also build really well. I want to get other members opinions on who goes down on the top 5 list. I know RoloJack really doesn't build anymore so its a sad situation. I also did not write this so we can flood all these Daytona builders. The main reason is to compare and get real life stories on peoples experiences dealing with these two. They both have different styles, Different sources, and different end products. I know RoloJack is so much more methodical and has attention to detail. I know Society has an insane collection and gets more into tropical dials, etc. With that being said I hope to hear back from you guys and look forward to reading some cool stories. If I left anyone out please members chime in. Thanks.
  14. Guest

    General advice needed

    Hello All, I’m new therefore a pain because I have so many questions that are obvious to many members, But I must start somewhere. There are many abbreviations attached to watches of which I don’t know, is there a place I can find these. I’ve recently purchased a Rolex Daytona Cosmograph (11650 I think) latest edition it cost me $658 from ‘Dtime’ it’s says it waterproofed to 50 mtrs, Once received I wrote to ‘Dtime’ and asked is it W/P for general swimming (Certainly no deeper than 30 mtrs) They have assured me Yes definitely too 30 mtrs but not beyond, Should I have it checked out anyway despite Dtime’s assurance? With these clones/super Clones is Dtime a solid reliable company? Am I overpaying? I only want the best cost to an extent is irrelevant, Yet I see on some sites same watch $150-400, is it a case of “What you pay for you get” lower grade steel, cheaper movement, non AR Etc. i have three watches I want to buy (1 per month) A Breitling Chronomat, A Cartier Panthere (Midsize) and AP Royal Oak when the model I want is in production (Its a pity I can’t attach pics to this message) So in essence I need assistance with a guide to abbreviations and the groups input about ‘Dtime’ I’m familiar with what factory does the best of certain brands. I could probably do with a ‘ Understanding Clones,copies, Do’s and dont’s 101’ So I don’t have to post what might seem Obvious questions, Is there such a thing? I’m based in The UK. Thank you for taking the time to read my post. Regards. Pics 1 and 2 is what I still want. pics 3,4,5 Is What I have Rolex Daytona Cosmograph
  15. Gday everyone Multiple reps in the kitty & this is my first SD43 from ARF - QC just in.... rehault slightly off but this is kind of expected with the ARF isn’t it... Sold as a V2 - what you think people? appears to be V2 - my interpretation is that is has the slightly rounded bezel (not so sharp) etc date wheel looks ok mag decent appreciate any feedback you have guys particularly from any current owners how this one compares sh3135 movement thanks again cheers
  16. I’m looking for a ROLEX DAYTONA TWO TONE 116523 replica anyone here has it ?
  17. Was looking through Trusty's site earlier and came across this 1016 Explorer, which I'm pretty sure is the only cartel 1016 I've seen with drilled lug holes and a proper plexi dome. Still far from perfect — dial numerals are a little wacky, and the drilled holes to some eyes may seem slightly too far inward from the ends of the lugs — but otherwise looks like an improvement over the other 1016 he has for sale, which lacks drilled lugs and whose sapphire crystal is only modestly domed. Hoping he'll put a video up soon. Anyone seen this elsewhere? Or bought one? (Photos via TrustyTime)
  18. Gday everyone Multiple reps in the kitty & this is the first SD43 from ARF - QC just in.... rehault slightly off but this is kind of expected with the ARF isn’t it... Sold as a V2 - what you think people? appears to be V2 - my interpretation is that is has the slightly rounded bezel (not so sharp) etc apppreciate the feedback guys thanks again
  19. I have previously shared this on RWI and I will share it here as well - you guys seem to be the technical / OCD Rolex builders so I hope you will enjoy the pics And after waiting and researching for nearly a year trying to source the right parts... Theme of the build = a classic 14270 Rolex that has been through RSC (hence this 14270 will have lug holes AND superluminova dial and hands) Here are the ingredients - Gen 36mm Datejust 16233 E-series case (took me bloody 6 months to find one in decent condition) - Gen 36mm Datejust smooth bezel - Gen 14270/114270 Swiss Made dial (bloody rare to find) - Gen 603 crown - Gen Submariner seconds hand - JF 16610 LN minute + hour hand - JKhorological Swiss 25-295 crystal - Serviced Yuki 3135 from tickleshoes ...... still in search of a hollow link 78360 rep oyster bracelet The watch is practically gen at this point. If i pair it up with my gen 62510h bracelet, then it's visually indistinguishable to gen so here is my gen 16200 Datejust case that arrived via fedex Left case is gen 16200 datejust case; right case is a replica 16200 case for 2824-2 movement The rehaut is much wider (in terms of diameter) and less wokky on the gen 16200 datejust case Also, the lugs are thinner on gen case (even though my gen case has probably been polished before) Left case is gen 16200 datejust case; right case is a replica 16200 case for 2824-2 movement Crown height and case thickness is pretty much the same for both cases I installed the Yuki 3135 with the gen 14270 dial into the gen case first The usual ETA movement tab screws didn't fit between the gen case's side and the yuki movement, but luckily i have some spare gen-spec 3135 movement/case screws and they were thin enough to fit in between the gen case and the yuki movement Then I proceeded to install the hands, crystal, and gen smooth bezel And here is the final results (paired with my gen 62510h jubilee bracelet with 555 end links - but i am desperately in need of a rep 78360 hollow link oyster bracelet) At this moment, the watch is pretty much gen externally and there is no definitive way to tell that it is a franken or replica by just looking at it externally Lume shot! - the JF minute and hour hands have the same lume colour and brightness as the gen Rolex dial lume and gen Rolex seconds hand lume
  20. Hi everyone I'm looking to buy this Rolex Daydate 40 platinum from Trusty http://trustytimestore.com/index.php...ducts_id=16600 They have both Noob and BP factory options. The noob model is 20 bucks more expensive. I don't know which one to go for. I'm just looking for the closet thing to the original. I appreciate everyone's help with this. Thanks alot
  21. Ever wondered what a Million dollars will buy you these days..?? Most of a 6538 Sub, explorer dial- Meters first red text. and they even throw in the 18mm Nato strap, On the house!! And this is why I love this Rep building hobby Does anyone Make this dial? https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-submariner-6538-christies-new-york-most-expensive-ever
  22. Thinking about buying this watch. Seller is saying v7, just want to make sure. Can you tell if it’s a V7? Also, any flaws you guys see? https://m.imgur.com/a/bALBIpd
  23. Which dealer sells this one and it is really a movement clone? any links to dealer site Thanas
  24. I’m trying to buy a yuki 3135 to make a franken watch. Thinking about the new noob v8 using everything, except the dial and the movement. Tips? Info?
  25. Hi everyone i cant decide on which Rolex Submariner Hulk to go with they are both really nice but i want the one that looks closest to the Genuine! Heres the links to both of the watches im looking at. NOOB V7 - http://trustytime.store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=15352 This one says i can change the external parts i am thinking of changing the face and bezel for a genuine. VRF - http://trustytime.store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_7&products_id=18064 This one doesnt say i can change anything but it does look very nice! If you guys can tell me which one is the better one or give me links to a better one than these to would be amazing and much appreciated! Thanks Very Much!
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