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Found 371 results

  1. I need service of my MBW 1665, it has a 1570 inside and the date will not change. who does service in the USA. Thanks
  2. Hi guys, Whats the best GMT II Black/Blue out there at the moment ? The one closer to the gen one Thanks
  3. Hi, I am looking to purchase the best 5513 and 1675 GMT replica also in the market for a Daytona. Any suggestions please? Anybody used Trusty Time? http://www.ttw-138.com? Regards Martin
  4. Hello friends of vintage watches !!! Today I want to introduce my last mod, a ROLEX Gmt 1675 El Cornino PCG with gilt closed minute Dial. I hope you enjoy it Case: Cartel GMT 1675 by Sead. Bezel Insert: Yuki. Dial: Yuki. Hands: Rafflestime.
  5. Hey guys, so I bought a Rolex submariner rep. Paid $300 of trusty time. Now I when I pull out the dial to adjust the time/date, it doesn't catch anything and I can't change the time! The perpetual movement still works and ticks fine. Wtf happened?!
  6. Does anyone have the newest BP subs to share pics of? Been looking for a few ...
  7. The 16800 I've been thinking about this for quite a while yet and thought I would do a little tutorial on 16800 builds as the one I did on the Bluesy builds. Since there are NO reps of that model, you HAVE to build it to have it. So first things first.. The 16800 Basically it is the model between the 1680 and the 16610 (168000 actually but are we counting this??) It is a pretty unpopular Rolex in collectors eyes so far but I am totally positive that will change drastically over time with the rarity of the Pallettoni dials and the special spider dials that are popping up in those pieces, there most likely is a great potential in those pieces. Improvements compared to the 1680: - Saphire Crystal -> no more acrylic - Rolex Cal 3035 -> no more 1570/5 (-> added QuickSet function and now high beat) - Unidirectional rotating bezel - Waterproof to a depth of 300m -> 200m on the 1680 - New crown - 703 (trip lock) -> 700 on the 1680 - 93150 Bracelet with 593 end links -> 7206 or 9315 on the 1680 with 580 end links Now let's get to the building. Of course you will want a decent case as a base for your build. I also have to say this is probably one of the hardest tasks in repdom. Find a correct case... There are not many to choose... Only ones I know about that are usable are: - 3035 ST case (old and super rare) - Phong 16800 case ($$$) Sure you could use a TC case too but that wouldn't have a shallow rehaut and just be incorrect, also you will have to drill lug holes. It's up to you to decide if you can live with that flaw or not. Imho it's not too much of a biggie but I would still hunt for a correct case. Once you have a case, move on with the sourcing of a crystal, crown and tube. I personally would go gen on all of those. - nonAR 295c sapphire crystal - 703 crown and tube After that, I would go with the decision of the bezel assembly and the bezel ring. Your choices are: - Genuine - Phong - ST - TC (if you go TC case) Bezel insert HAS to be gen imho so there goes that. Now we have almost everything except for movement, bracelet, hands and dial eh? Yeah exactly. Now it is yours to choose if you want to go matte dial (Pallettoni) or gloss dial (with WG surrounds) Special dials would be the Spider dials (also $$$ if proper one) Spider dial: The matte dials are pretty expensive to buy if you can even find them in an acceptable condition. They are really hard to come by. The gloss ones although are out there like sand on the beach, you can find them literally everywhere and also score pretty good deals on them To be periodic correct there are several Marks for the dials.. Matte dials: Mk1: Mk2: Rare dial, can usually be found on watches with serial numbers from 6.1 to 8.5 mil ('84-'85) The hyphen in the wording 'Swiss - T<25' is perfectly centered with the '6 Marker whilst on the Mk1 it was placed more on the right. Also in the depth indication the tail of the letter 'f' almost touches the tip of the letter V in 'SUPERLATIVE'. Mk3: Even rarer dial than mk2 The two hyphens of the '=' in the depth indication are staggered - not aligned to each other Mk4: Now the Mk4 is a special dial since it is a dial that was around at the early serials. It is unique for the font of the 'ft' and the inclination. Gloss dials: Mk1: Mk2: I think the difference between gloss Mk1 and Mk2 are obvious, so I will not get into them now. Bicchierini Dial the Beyeler dials with WG surrounds that came out in '84 and lasted for a year or two. These dials would have the same printed font as the matte dials and were supposedly gloss dials but a lot of them have lost their gloss over time. This is a Beyeler dial- circa 84-85. (taken from alli, thanks I forgot it) If you have found a dial you like, go and buy a hands set, you should use: - genuine - TC LN v2 and age them to match the Patina of your dial. When it comes to the movement, the question is all about your wallet. You can go: - genuine cal. 3035 - ETA Now last but not least, we're having the bracelet.. For that you can choose between those: - genuine 93150 - PT 93150 - anything else aftermarket However I would suggest at least getting a genuine clasp for it. Please also keep the dating of the clasp code in mind so that it mates up with the rest of your build specs. After you have sourced all of those parts, send them out to the watchmaker of your choice and have him build the 16800. Happy building! :sparta::hi: @Sogeha
  8. as the post says need a pair of movement screw to secure it. let me know if you have those handy, i know that wholesaleoutlet has them, but he will not sell to me
  9. Hello fellow members. I've just registered, and I'd like to ask you a question. I know that maybe such questions are common here, but I have a serious dilema. I have 19cm wrist, will submariner look ok on me? Anyway, I wanted to buy V7 Submariner from N. What do you think about it? I've found a video HERE and it looks marvelous. There are some retailers selling them online, but maybe you happen to know trusted retailers? But I've also found site called iSwiss, on which they sell V7 really cheap but it's NOT RECOMMENDED and there are several comments saying N. replicas are bad. What do you think? Kind regards for everyone!
  10. Just picked up this GMT Master ii from Andrew at TT, what a great customer service experience! All questions were answered in less than an hour generally and shipping took about 4 days from shipping date to my house in the US. The Watch is a noob best edition and I must say it's 9.8/10 almost perfect! If you're looking for this Watch don't hesitate buying from Andrew he will take care of you!
  11. What do you guys think about the likeness to a gen on the YM2 stainless?
  12. I've been holding on to an 80's 1680 white service dial and insert for about a year now. My original plan was to put it into an MBW case but once I realized, to make it fit I was going to have to shave the dial down I decided not to go down that route. I have also been away from the rep game for a while. I see this new SH3135 movement being offered by JF Factory. I was wondering, if I bought a Phong case that was more correct spec, would I be able to combine the service dial and this new movement with out cutting the dial feet? Would the date wheel line up and would this movement fit in that case? Any help is greatly appreciated!
  13. Today some pictures of my Rolex Daytona 6263 Paul Newman Enjoy them!
  14. And so it begins.....my first build. I started off with a cartel 1655. The movement bit the dust on me so I figured this is my chance to try my hand at modding. This tread will be the timeline . What am I building? good question. I so very badly have two watches that I want to build. A GMT Master 6542 and a Milgauss 1019. Both of which are NLA from the TD's so if you want one you gotta build it yourself. and from what I have read, neither are very good examples of the models so alot of modding would be needed to make either of them half decent . Pics for Reference..cause everyone loves pics of watches....if you dont, what the hell ya doing here?? lol After a few convos with @JoeyB I picked his brain and he was very kind to share his knowledge and experience in the 6542 build. Finding a reasonable priced Dial atm is difficult so this is why I am leaning towards the 1019 currently. the challange with the 1019 build is finding a smooth bezel to fit the cartel case. Either Way the case needs some work so I started on that and if I dont completely mess it up, I will then decide and order parts.... So I am stripped down the 1655 to bear bones. Drilled out the lugs. Broke a bit...but managed to get it out, save the case and get the rest of the lugs done. Not too bad...sorry no pics. Tonight I started on the lugs. Getting the crown tube out was a bit of a challenge as it was locktite into the case so it took some force but managed to get it out and managed not to destroy it. Next we're the lugs. A steady hand and a Dremel with first a grinding stone and then sanding drum to clean up the marks left by the stone. Looking at the pics and comparing them to the gens. I still have a bit more to go to make the case smooth for the crown. It's been a long day and I was getting hungry so I called it. Feedback , suggestions and comments welcome. I'm here to learn Thanks for looking. [emoji482] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. Hey RWGeeks! So a few years ago now, my father and i got burned on some japanese auction sites and we received what we thought was a 7928 Tudor Sub. Instead it was a franken watch with a 9411/0 case set and real 2824 movement (longines or something not tudor, doesn't have the KIF shock protection). The current spec is: Gen 2784, gen dial, gen crown, clark crystal, yuki hands (tiger concept hands on the way), clark tube, unknown bezel assembly + retaining ring. So I've been going under the assumption that the case is a replica case, i mean why would you put a real 9411 case with franken parts + rep dial (i have been wrong before)? The case has: - Proper engravings: 78xxxx serial number (roughly 1972), the 9411/0 engraving too - 2mm lug holes - Decent shape - maybe you can help me out with this one. - Caseback looks decent but has C.R.S instead of 9411 on the inside. - Unknown bezel assembly too - Fits 26mm dial Please let me know if you have any ideas on the case. Does the rehaut look too 'wokky'/angled? Thanks in advance guys!!!
  16. I've been selling all the watches for some time ... And I bought one again and made some pictures of it. Regards.
  17. For all of the experts out there, can anyone confirm that this insert looks like a GEN service insert? I would rather not overspend for something from Cartel or other sources. I still am trying to figure out how all you figure out the small nuances between the different type of inserts. I believe the seller when he says that it is a GEN service insert, but given my level of skill in identifying differences, I would feel a lot better with some other confirmation. The seller just overlayed the bezel on his sub to show the look and it does not have a pearl for those wondering. Finally any ideas on what the going rate is for a GEN service insert? Thanks!
  18. Surlysurdi Hi guys I hope you are all well and enjoying your watches! I have a question for you all, has anybody heard of a company called Sybir? They are supposedly legit Rolex specialists with some mad prices for new gen rollies? Only thing is I can find hardly anything about them! Thanks everyone
  19. Rep Rolex Sub C LV on eBAY? Rolex experts take a look and chime up....rep? Highly likely with one feedback. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rolex-Submariner-Date-116610LV-Wrist-Watch-for-Men-/162382449600?hash=item25cebf8bc0:g:11kAAOSw4DJYlLhL
  20. It's been some time since I posted a build thread here, but I just finished one in which some might have some interest. I have wanted to build a GMT-Master II 16710 for a long time but just never got to it. It's near impossible unless you have a spare 3186 movement laying around, or a Yuki built up to proper specs. I wasn't really aware of the 16700 until I came across the dial on eBay. I did some research and a good 16700 seemed like just the thing to build as I have come to love the vintage modern watches with sapphire crystals. I was in possession of a Noob 16570 Explorer 2 which I wasn't happy with and never wore so I decided it needed to morph into something else. I found a near perfect, 16700 Swiss-only dial and purchased it on a good offer and it was accepted. Then I was able to purchase a fat font w/serifs, bezel insert, so I was off to the races. I sent the case to JMB to drill the lugs (there are no 16700s without lugholes) to accomodate 2MM springbars and then ordered Yuki's 93153 bracelet. The 16700s really came with a 93150 bracelet and a sub-type clasp, but there are some without that, as well. I used a TC bezel which seems to duplicate the original very nicely. The GMT hand is not adjustable, per the gen. The bezel does not click, per the gen...see below. It is a gen ETA 2836-2 modified to GMT, of course. Someday I may address the incorrect hand stack, but, who's gonna notice. The only time it is obvious is twice a day for the few moments that the hour hand should pass under the GMT hand. Other than that...I don't care. If you're not familiar with the 16700; it is the forerunner of the 16710...made from 1988 to 1999. It differs from the 16710 in three ways, maybe four. The 16700 is visually different in that it says GMT-Master on the dial while the 16710 says GMT-Master II. The other differences are from the movement. The 16700 has no individually adjustable hands. The GMT hand is a 24-hour hand and it just follows the time-keeping. The 16710 has an individually-adjustable hour hand and that is what makes it, virtually, impossible to rep without the movement. Additionally, the 16710 has a bi-directional bezel that clicks both ways, while the 16700 is bi-directional but does not click. After my study, were I in the market for a gen, I would not turn down a good deal on a 16700. Actually, four ways...while the 16700 has quick-set date adjustment, the 16710 is adjusted by turning the individually-adjustable hour hand around two turns until the date changes. Experts, please correct any errors. Well, I have some pics...
  21. Spent many hours on this one. I'm asking the Rolies experts out there. How can I make this JF 1:1 looking any better?
  22. Hey Guys, Looking for the Correct Flat 4 Bezel for my 1655 Yuki has one but its not quite the one I am looking for. Its the small bold font. I am looking for the thin wide font like the one shown. checked ebay and one guy is selling them for $350.00 was looking for more in the 150-200 range. Are there any other options out there? TIA JSeb
  23. Ok, it´s a technical marvel. It´s a real watch - a "Swiss Watch" "made in America", manufactured and assembled with care : Straightforward. No worries, no problems, no second thoughts. American assembly quality and You have it: You put in on the wrist – and it feels good. It sits. No need for adjustments, not too tight, not to loose, it just fits. The TC is thinner, more gen-like, by this changing the weight balance to a lower point on the wrist and wow You notice it, a lot, it does not “capsize” like the others, huge improvement and difference. What a quality feel with the bracelet and its opening mechanism, it snaps open, it has a resistance than snaps, tight, solid, as it should be. The movement – perfect, no rattling, no shaking, feels “gen-like”. Screwing out the crown – again perfect feel, no scratching, no pushing, no fiddling around, no trying, it just clicks and You set date and time, smoothly, no resistance at all – perfectly working. Simply GREAT! As for the looks, a lot has been said already the TC sub catches the light, it blinks, it reflects. Shine and perfection of the triangle and circles is fantastic. The lettering on the dial is crisp and uses different fonts than the asian ones. The black is smooth and a deep black. One other huge difference/improvement is how the second hand attaches to the center wheel – it just looks perfect. For this "Cadell Submariner Rouge 25-286" I just had to have that inverted datewheel without the Cyclops for the balanced overall "Seadweller-type" look and the crisp red second hand sweeping is just fascinating. Thanks for this TC On to the pics, got a little carried away.. enjoy: And my 2 new favourite together:
  24. Hello there, I've received the QC pics of my new Submariner 116610LN V6s. As I'm not VERY good with doing QC's; I'd love to receive some help from the more experienced, (Rolex) Qc connoisseurs. Please chime in with your knowledge and help me out as much as you can, would be greatly appreciated. - Are there any flaws? If so, which? - Should I ask for more (detailed) pictures? - Should I Accept it? I hope to hear from you guys, I have about 16 hours to get back to them before they will send it to me. Thank you so much in advance!