redwatch Posted July 7, 2009 Report Share Posted July 7, 2009 Hi folks, I have a noobmariner with a very stubborn case back. I have the Bergeon 5537 cases back removal tool set, two Horb sticky balls and a nice roll of duct tape. Nothing is working. Any other tricks I can try? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TeeJay Posted July 7, 2009 Report Share Posted July 7, 2009 Hi folks, I have a noobmariner with a very stubborn case back. I have the Bergeon 5537 cases back removal tool set, two Horb sticky balls and a nice roll of duct tape. Nothing is working. Any other tricks I can try? Have you tried dishwashing gloves? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freddy333 Posted July 7, 2009 Report Share Posted July 7, 2009 Hi folks, I have a noobmariner with a very stubborn case back. I have the Bergeon 5537 cases back removal tool set, two Horb sticky balls and a nice roll of duct tape. Nothing is working. Any other tricks I can try? Try heating the caseback with a hand-held hair drier set on medium (too hot & you could damage something). Once warm, try the Bergeon tool again (the other options rarely work unless the caseback was not installed correctly to begin with). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redwatch Posted July 7, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2009 I think the problem with the Bergeon tool is that the case back teeth are not correct. I can feel it slipping around a lot, where as on my 1680 or 1655 the tool fits absolutely perfect on the case backs. I will try heating it a little bit and see if that helps. @TeeJay - yes, I forgot to mention that I did try dish washing gloves too - no go Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redwatch Posted July 8, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2009 Got the caseback off - thanks Freddy, but now I can't seem to pop the bezel off of the case. Searched around for some options, but none have worked so far. Anyone have a good trick for this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bertieng Posted July 8, 2009 Report Share Posted July 8, 2009 It is very well known that removal of the Noob bezel is almost impossible unless it want to ruin it. Sorry to say. Why do you want to remove it? I presume changing the insert? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alligoat Posted July 8, 2009 Report Share Posted July 8, 2009 Removing the noob bezel is a slow and tedious project and as bertie says fraught with peril. Basically you have to go around the entire case gently trying to pry up the bezel in small increments. It helps if you have some small wedges to put in there so that it won't go down on the opposite side while you're prying and lifting on the other side. BTW, the noob insert is slightly smaller (OD) than the gen or aftermarket inserts. This means to install another insert, you have to file it down all the way around. Best option is to pop the pearl, remove the insert, enlarge the pearl hole w/ an x-acto knife and install the Watchmaterial pearl for $10. Then reinstall/reglue the original insert back in. I'd never waste a gen insert on a noobmariner. Save it for a WM9 or Euromariner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redwatch Posted July 8, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2009 I got this one from another member here. I just assumed it was a noobmariner. However, these are the specs when I bought the watch: Rolex Submariner, Swiss ETA Movt, Genuine pearl [albeit with a crack], Genuine bezel insert, laser etched 'dotted' coronet on the crystal at six [as per gen; completely invisible to the eye, unless looked at from a certain angle under direct light]. Bezel is tight and clicks solidly - no wobbliness or move. Dates are centered, as is the cyclops. Crown is solid as well, doesn't wobble or fragile feeling. Watch is pool and ocean tested! The cracked pearl is why I want to remove the bezel. So, if it is a noobmariner, then they modified the insert. If it is not, then I have no idea where this watch is originally from. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redwatch Posted July 8, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2009 Here are some pics of the watch: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TeeJay Posted July 8, 2009 Report Share Posted July 8, 2009 I got this one from another member here. I just assumed it was a noobmariner. However, these are the specs when I bought the watch: Rolex Submariner, Swiss ETA Movt, Genuine pearl [albeit with a crack], Genuine bezel insert, laser etched 'dotted' coronet on the crystal at six [as per gen; completely invisible to the eye, unless looked at from a certain angle under direct light]. Bezel is tight and clicks solidly - no wobbliness or move. Dates are centered, as is the cyclops. Crown is solid as well, doesn't wobble or fragile feeling. Watch is pool and ocean tested! The cracked pearl is why I want to remove the bezel. So, if it is a noobmariner, then they modified the insert. If it is not, then I have no idea where this watch is originally from. If the only problem is the pearl, then you really only need to remove the bezel insert rather than the entire bezel. The method I've always used, is to de-case the movement and push the crystal out from the back, which will then allow you to gently pry the insert up from the inside edge. If you use something like the pieces of plastic which are packed under a shirt collar, then you shouldn't damage the insert After that, it's just a case of replacing the pearl and replacing the parts... Alternately, an even easier solution would be to simply pick the pearl out with a fingernail and install the new one without the hassle of stripping the watch down Best of luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redwatch Posted July 8, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2009 Well, that isn't the only problem, but it was my main inspiration for stripping down the watch. The bezel is quite tight and I wanted to give it a good clean and possible adjust the click spring while I was at it. The pearl was going to be a bonus after the fact! Not only do I need to figure out how to get this thing off, but now I am wondering who made this sub? Is it a noob, or another factory? Can anyone tell just from the pics? Are there any tells that I can look for now that I have un-cased the movement? Thanks for all your replies so far guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gavidoc Posted July 8, 2009 Report Share Posted July 8, 2009 Well, that isn't the only problem, but it was my main inspiration for stripping down the watch. The bezel is quite tight and I wanted to give it a good clean and possible adjust the click spring while I was at it. The pearl was going to be a bonus after the fact! Not only do I need to figure out how to get this thing off, but now I am wondering who made this sub? Is it a noob, or another factory? Can anyone tell just from the pics? Are there any tells that I can look for now that I have un-cased the movement? Thanks for all your replies so far guys! This is the method I've used in the past. Similar to what others have stated above. Tools needed: 16 razor blades Gloves (heavy canvas are ideal) 1 rubber hammer tape normal watch movmeent removal tools 1. Remove the movement. 2. Tape up all the lugs so you don't scratch them. 3. Start at one of the lugs and put a razor blade right at the point where the bezel meets the case. Tap it in with the hammer so that it gets between the bezel and the case. Leave the razor blade in the slot. 4. Repate the process at the opposite side. Leave razor blade. 5. Go to the next corner and repeat. Leave razor blade. 6. Same on the opposite side of #5. Leave razor blade. 7. Repeat steps 3 through 6 till you have used all the razor blades or the bezel pops off. As others have said, it is slow and tedious but if done correctly it will keep you from bending the bezel. Razor blades work because htey are thin and you can slowly build up the thickness of them with little issue. For me, by the time I start the 4th set, the bezel will pop off once you knock in the first of the 4th row of razor blades. After you remove it, see if their is a retainer spring inside the bezel. If there is, mark where ithe opening in the spring is and try to line it up with the pearl when you replace the insert. Ideally you want to start remving a bezel from this point as it makes it a lot easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redwatch Posted July 8, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2009 Wow Gavidoc! That is great. I will try that shortly. Quick question, do you put the corner of the razor blade in, or do you use the middle of the blade? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cats Posted July 8, 2009 Report Share Posted July 8, 2009 Redwatch, i never tried this procedure but my feeling tells me not to put the corner of the blade in because this will break off. when that happens you have a new problem with a piece of razor blade sticking underneath. Carpe Diem Cats Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freddy333 Posted July 8, 2009 Report Share Posted July 8, 2009 i never tried this procedure but my feeling tells me not to put the corner of the blade in because this will break off. when that happens you have a new problem with a piece of razor blade sticking underneath. Ditto. I would use a case knife or the blade of a pocket knife (no teeth on the blade). You will need to work your way, slowly, around the perimeter of the bezel. But, eventually, it should come off. On the other hand, if you are removing the bezel only to replace the pearl, why not just remove the pearl & install the new 1 with the bezel in place. You ought to be able to pry out the existing pearl (they often fall out on their own with only slight urging) & then press (by hand) in the replacement (assuming the hole in the insert was cut to the same size as the replacement pearl). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gavidoc Posted July 8, 2009 Report Share Posted July 8, 2009 Middle of the blade. I've done this on a Marcello Netuno and numerous PAM reps. Reason on the pam reps is that those little metal pips will fall out if not secured. Only way to secure them is to get the bezel off but these suckers are near impossible to get off without bending them. Been successful doing it on a couple of those PAM reps. I've even used this method to switch out static press fit bezels (like a PAM 240 bezel, PAM 104 bezel, and my Gen EXP II bezel). Just don't rush it. You'll be ready to crap your pants about half way through it the first time in fear of bending it but after the first one, the others go pretty quickly. Once you have it down, should only take you about 30 mins. and that's because you don't want to cut your fingers. On some of these, a case knife just doesn't have a narrow enough edge. Especially if the bezel goes into the case where the teeth are. The nice thing about the razor blades is that they will flex to get between the case and bezel with a little tapping. Never had much luck with those caseknifes on a bezel. Bent the first Nettuno bezel I had trying to get it off with a caseknife. Unless you want to fork out the money for a bezel removing tool (they aren't cheap), you need to apply even pressure all around at the same time. Razor blades are thin enough where they lift it in small increments so as to give the same effect, but slower. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alligoat Posted July 8, 2009 Report Share Posted July 8, 2009 Cool method for removing a bezel, gavidoc! I'll keep it in mind for my next wrestling match. The easiest way to tell if a watch is a noob is to look at the SN between the lugs- F520117. Otherwise it's something else (newer M serial noobs have the rehaut engraving, but still end in 117). Replacing a gen pearl would require a gen pearl- I doubt a watchmaterial pearl would work- just slightly smaller. Check the SN and let us know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redwatch Posted July 8, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2009 That's the one then. It has SN F520117. So my guess is that the bezel insert was modified to fit this case. The insert came off as I was doing the razor blade trick (still haven't gotten the bezel off - at work and actually have to get some things done today). Anyways, the insert looks like it was glued on which I am assuming is not correct? Shouldn't it be press fit with the bezel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
its_urabus Posted July 8, 2009 Report Share Posted July 8, 2009 ive attempted to remove a noob bezel with a very similar method. even the slightest bend in the bezel will make it difficult to turn once reinstalled, if you can get it reinstalled. If it is dirty, why not strip the case and ultrasonic the case. it would clean out any crap under the bezel. in any event good luck and keep all your digits attached Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alligoat Posted July 8, 2009 Report Share Posted July 8, 2009 With a noob, you have to glue the bezel in. Press fit only works on a gen, maybe a Euromariner, and possibly a WM9V2. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redwatch Posted July 8, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2009 Actually, that was going to be my next concern. Once I do get this thing apart, will I be able to put it back together again? What's the trick for putting the bezel back on again? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alligoat Posted July 9, 2009 Report Share Posted July 9, 2009 It's been a while since I put my noob bezel back on, can't remember if I pressed it on by hand, or used a crystal press. The crystal press (I got mine from Harbor Freight for $15) is a good too to have if you're going to work on watches. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redwatch Posted July 9, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2009 Wow, that press is now $9.99. Is this the one you have? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oberblender Posted July 9, 2009 Report Share Posted July 9, 2009 wouldn't be bad to buy a crystal press anyways... last time I tried to remove the bezel of my wm9 v2 the complete bezel assembly including the crystal came off... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
offshore Posted July 9, 2009 Report Share Posted July 9, 2009 Gotta jump in here, and say that this thread is a wonderful example of what this place is all about. The collective gaining of information and problem solving, with multiple members contributing, is one reason your admin team continue to work to provide this place. Good stuff guys, it's this sort of thing which takes us from strength to strength. Great community effort. Offshore Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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