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Asian 2836 movement vs Swiss 2836 movement


Broker1981

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HI!

I am buying a watch for a friend. He knows it's a rep. But still, he'll appreciate it.

I am looking at two options:

1: Rolex Submariner 18K plating TT 2009, Asian 2836 Black

2: Rolex Submariner 18K plating TT 2009, Swiss 2836 Black

Both watches are delivered by Connie.

I am wondering the following:

Is it worth spending an extra USD 80 to get the Swiss ETA 2836-2 movement instead of the Asian ETA 2836-2?

I have read the specs on both watches, and the movement is the only difference.

Links:

Asian movement

Swiss movement

Any and all advise would be most appreciated. I would also like your general comments on the quality of these two reps.

Thank you!

With regards,

Broker

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I would buy the asian copy and put the extra $80 into getting a local watchsmith to service it. Even if you actually get an ETA movement, it will probably be old and dryed out anyways.. or a referb.. or not an ETA at all...

Doesnt always matter who the dealer is. Sometimes the factorys just send them whatever and they dont even know what they are getting.. .

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I would buy the asian copy and put the extra $80 into getting a local watchsmith to service it. Even if you actually get an ETA movement, it will probably be old and dryed out anyways.. or a referb.. or not an ETA at all...

Doesnt always matter who the dealer is. Sometimes the factorys just send them whatever and they dont even know what they are getting.. .

I agree with Dizzy. I have found that our reps very often need servicing whether they are Asian made or Swiss. I have bought reps with the cheap DG movements and then transplanted a gen Swiss 2836 that I purchased from a supply house in the states and still it needs servicing. Even when buying a movement from a horological supply house you just don't know how long it has been in stock there.

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I agree with Dizzy. I have found that our reps very often need servicing whether they are Asian made or Swiss. I have bought reps with the cheap DG movements and then transplanted a gen Swiss 2836 that I purchased from a supply house in the states and still it needs servicing. Even when buying a movement from a horological supply house you just don't know how long it has been in stock there.

Ok, the question then becomes. Where do i go to get this service done, and how long does it take?

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I also concur with Dizzy's suggestion. When and if the asian finally dies, and you still like the watch, you can swap in an ETA at that time.

As for where to get the service, it all depends where you live or if you are willing to ship. Doesn't take long unless there is a waiting list.

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"...When and if the asian finally dies, and you still like the watch, you can swap in an ETA at that time."

True. :good:

Otoh, one reason to pay extra $$ for an Asian etaclone is so a genuine Swiss Eta will be a drop in movement exchange.

When you go from a Miyotaclone (DG 2813 etc) to a Swiss Eta 2824/36 etc, it involves:

Changing hands.

Removing the dial feet.

Cementing the dial to the Eta calendar spacer.

Plus...

The Eta date wheel may not match the font and/or offset from the dial center (most rolex watches are 9mm and standard Eta is 10mm).

Sometimes a different movement spacer is needed.

Sometimes a different calendar wheel is needed.

The case screws and clamps may not work.

The Eta stem may not center in the case tube (original movement was too thick or too thin).

When you go from Asian etaclone to Swiss Eta...everything should exchange with no trouble.

The key word is should. :animal_rooster:

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I would go for the clone, it's a good movement BUT put the extra into a service, the QC is poor on the clones IMO. The pic below, from a brand new watch "making a noise" was taken just yesterday -

Expl1MX.jpg

This will be stripped, cleaned and serviced before it goes back to the customer!

Beware also the Clones with the red (painted) ratchet gear for Rolex, the paint flakes off and ends up in the movement. Not good, and the paint should be removed during service. The Rolex 3135 clone is no better, last one I had in had the rotor screw plus the dummy balance wheel bridge and screw floating around inside the case!

As an aside, I find it best to remove the stem from a clone in the handset position. I always used to do it in the winding position on swiss ETAs without problems but, presumably because of poor tolerances on the plate, when you replace the stem in a clone in the winding position the clutch pinion is always displaced requiring the keyless works to be stripped and fixed.

Obviously you can't generalise and assume these problems apply to, or the tolerances are poor on, every clone, but given that they probably are not lubed properly and may have dirt particles in the movement, it does make good sense to have it serviced sooner rather than later.

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clones are junk :thumbdown:

Same goes for the surplus swiss ETA's :thumbdown:

The risk is just the same, doesnt matter.

The real question in this topic is really, will you invest more first, or further down the line. Either way being a gamble. But thats simply what its boils down to... remember where are talking replica watches.

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