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The 1675 gmt Thread, post em pleas ;)


Guest zeleni kukuruz

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  • 1 month later...

Some notes on the build:

 
List of ingredients:
 
Cartel 1675 21j, folded oyster, not shown.
Clark crystal
Clark bezel ring
Factory faded serif insert
Flat case back
M2M gilt chapter ring dial
Raffles small GMT hand
 
 
The case was thinned a bit but I didn't go too far into it because it would be pretty easy to mess it up. I marked out the profile of the PCGs and cut them in then re-polished using a small polishing wheel and green polishing compound. Took about an hour to get it all right. The cartel case lends itself to PCGs but with the case being chinky and the CGs being short, you wind up with PCGs that are a little chubby. Can't really be helped and it's really one of the many "that'll do" moments you'll have when building a 1675 under $500. Now you can go with a phong or yuki case, but you're approaching gen DJ money at that point.
 
The dial was positioned and held down with dial dots, and it was a bit touchy, but it's on firm now. The dial came from a m2m deal and I don't know where it originated. The plate is stamped with the Singer logo which is a nice touch. The dial was only a few microns larger than the case so it fit perfectly, nail-bitingly so. Hands were installed with my hand press, everything cases up. I tinted the lume to match the dial.
 
The crystal fit like a dream, and the bezel set needed some sanding but after a little work I pressed it over the crystal, all snug. The insert is a pre-faded insert I got from
eBay and it looks the part. I'm not a big fan of the bleached inserts because they always look modified. This one is lightly faded and retains that gen look. Pricey at $50, but to me it was worth it. 
 
I haven't drilled the lug holes yet and the rep bracelet needs to be modified to take the gen 2mm Spring bars. That will come once I get my hands on a better 7836 bracelet. I've modified these cartel bracelets before, and it's diminishing returns and more work than is needed. Better alternatives are out there, so I'll wait until I have something in hand then make the necessary changes. 
 
 
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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks mate! It's from 1964, I got it for a song because the seller thought it had a fake dial. Turns out he'd never seen a "radial" dial and it was okay.

My local AD called a few years ago with a tropical gilt dial for me, but I had to surrender a dial for him to send back. So I bit my lip and let him take my radial. Sure wish I'd had a week to source an alternate and keep that beauty. But the end results are nice.

I'm getting tired of that small arrow hand with the incorrect triangle. I'd like to find a better one for less than a bazillion dollars, so I might put the big arrow back on.

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  • 4 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...

'Been looking around for gen 1565 movement."

A 1565 date movement is not very hard to find but a 1565GMT movement is.  Since your post is in a 1675 GMT thread (and you posted a WTB in the trade section), I will assume you are looking for a 1565GMT movement.  The 1565GMT is a standard 1565 date movement with a few special GMT parts...parts that are nearly impossible to find today.  So...unless you have a very good appropriately dated genuine 1675 case and dial, I would rethink the project because a 1675 Frankenstein is usually not worth the sum of the parts unless you get a steal of a deal on the movement.  I learned this the hard way when trying to put a Phong case/dial 1655 with a 1575 hack together along with changing the movement out to GMT...over 3 years and $3k later it is still just a box of parts. 

You could also buy a no hack 1575GMT movement and change the escapement out to 18000bph along with the autowind top plate and make a 1565GMT out of it as the parts are all the same except the escapement and the 1565/1565GMT was not a hack movement.  Some 1560/65 have a 'curb feeler' hairspring guard and some do not so this does not matter a whole lot but all I have seen had the plate machined for one.  Hack movements have a different set lever and the dial side main plate is machined for the hack lever so they are not hard to spot if someone removes a few parts and looks for it.  The set lever can easily be changed but the main plate is a problem if you want a convincing 1565GMT movement.  Some 1570/75 main plates are machined for the 'curb feeler' so you might be able to add one if you want it.  The serial number on the movement means very little so it is not much of an issue.  Misiekped posted he had a 1675GMT movement so that might be one way to make one if you wanted to swap out the escapement parts and a/w plate.

 

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