Akira Posted October 4, 2012 Report Share Posted October 4, 2012 It was about a few weeks back, LHOOQ and I were discussing Speedies, 1016's or Daytonas...I don't remember. Finally we ended up talking about the "Cartel 7836" bracelet and how well it's replicated, considering the competitors and price. LHOOQ made a nice write-up about it www.rwg.cc/topic/120850-rep-7836-bracelet-photo-review/ He also took a look at the "Yuki 7836" www.rwg.cc/topic/141396-a-look-at-the-yuki-7836 Both show severe problems in the, what I call "connecting link area". They are both weirdly bend in the middle instead of being smooth like the normal middle links. First time I noticed it, never had been a problem for me, probably because I didn't really read his thread attentively Now it was bugging me though. On my 1675: Apart from the angular shape and boxiness of the clasp, the slightly wrong coronet placement and the oversimplified link that connects the bracelet to the clasp, it's a stellar bracelet. These faults are not as visible and instantly noticeable as the "connecting link"! So there we were...I'm not a modder, but have access to very good goldsmith tools - a bit advanced to the average watch working bench. It took me a while to figure out a way to modify the existing links, since I don't have the time or tools to machine completely new ones. (Which is probably easy-peasy-lemon-squeezy for JMB ) Anyways, I thought manpower is the way to go... I'm now sharing the almost complete result. (I need to polish it once more and then brush finish it, but it will be two weeks, until I have access to the good tools again and I'm just to excited to wait ) All gen pictures are for reference only and used from their original host location. It's a bit of a dull rainy day, therefore not better light in the pics. Please let me know your thoughts Is it an improvement? Do you think it's necessary or not? Akira Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danielv2000 Posted October 4, 2012 Report Share Posted October 4, 2012 Akira, it looks100% better. Well done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ephry73 Posted October 4, 2012 Report Share Posted October 4, 2012 I bet anything it's also quieter. Good job brother. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lhooq Posted October 4, 2012 Report Share Posted October 4, 2012 I had the pleasure of watching this mod take shape over a series of emails. The connecting midlink might seem like a minor thing, but it's out in front--and it's in every wrist shot! It can also have a big effect on the fit and comfort of the bracelet. Well done, Akira! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
janeto72 Posted October 4, 2012 Report Share Posted October 4, 2012 The biggest improvement other than visual appeal will be comfort on the wrist.Well done , Akira! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freddy333 Posted October 4, 2012 Report Share Posted October 4, 2012 Definitely, an improvement. But why not just get Yuki's 7836, which has the correct links in the 1st place Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dluddy Posted October 4, 2012 Report Share Posted October 4, 2012 Site says backordered and not available Freddy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Akira Posted October 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2012 (edited) Definitely, an improvement. But why not just get Yuki's 7836, which has the correct links in the 1st place 4-5x the price of the cartel and from what I hear not the best alternative either. Inflexible and attached "connector link", so you can't change the endlink. Maybe they improved it...but not to my knowledge. If quality for price wasn't an issue, I'd go for the gen anytime of the day Edited October 4, 2012 by Akira Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lhooq Posted October 4, 2012 Report Share Posted October 4, 2012 Definitely, an improvement. But why not just get Yuki's 7836, which has the correct links in the 1st place Because it is a $200 disappointment. EDIT: Ah, I just noticed that Akira linked to my mini-review in the OP. To summarize: The fixed endlinks weren't a good fit on any of my Rolex/Tudor watches, and the tightness between the endlinks and the adjacent links made it uncomfortable to wear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freddy333 Posted October 4, 2012 Report Share Posted October 4, 2012 attached "connector link", so you can't change the endlink. Yes, just like the gen. As for fitting proper 2mm springbars, that is definitely an issue, but Yuki will fit them for you if you ask (obviously, after the bracelet is back in stock). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woof* Posted October 4, 2012 Report Share Posted October 4, 2012 I just happened to email Mary yesterday about getting a couple of these. She's on vacation till the 7th. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Akira Posted October 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2012 Yes, just like the gen. As for fitting proper 2mm springbars, that is definitely an issue, but Yuki will fit them for you if you ask (obviously, after the bracelet is back in stock). I thought about what you said and from the pics I can find in the web, it appears that there are two versions depending on the endlinks. The fixed endlink often seen with the '382' Tudor end-link. And the one looking like mine, with the '258' There are plenty examples of both to find. However, to get back to the point of not using the Yuki... It was mainly because of the price. Here you have a $50 bracelet with 2-3h of work. I'm a student - I'm not earning $50/h yet, so it made sense Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eVojlib Posted October 6, 2012 Report Share Posted October 6, 2012 I must say I like how this connects the endlink to the bracelet, my gen 7836 tabs are not in the best shape and could stand a replacement. And since they are bent they have less presence and are not as noticeable as the one you've modded in your pics above. See here Nice mod, makes all the difference if you know what youre looking at. Thanks for sharing that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
automatico Posted October 7, 2012 Report Share Posted October 7, 2012 I have made a few sets of connecting links using stainless 316L sheet metal from onlinemetals com and various styles of 'chain nose' pliers...'chain nose' pliers are basically smooth jaw needle nose pliers. Get sheet metal a little bit thicker than the original connecting links if you need more metal to allow for smoothing and brush finishing the finished links...much thicker and it might bind on the bracelet center link though. Cut a piece of metal and size it to the exact width, then bend it around the round jaws of the 'chain nose' pliers. It will take a few (or many) tries but the cost is low and you can alter the overall length of the links to suit different applications. Because the space between the top and bottom of the connecting link is so close, I had to modify a set of pliers by grinding the tops of the jaws down and polishing them. I use cheapo pliers as they will do the job and I did not want to start grinding on $40 pliers. You can cut the blanks to size with a 'jeweler's saw' or cut-off disc in a Dremel tool...I have better luck with a cut-off disc because the saw blades are too easy to break. You can even use tin snips but they will sometimes bend the metal. Scribe a line on the sheet metal just a hair wider than needed and cut outside the line. After you get the blank roughed out, size it exactly on a file etc and start bending. If the ends overlap after bending, you can cut them down with a cut-off wheel. I use 'duck bill' pliers to close the links (when installing them) and smooth out a slight groove inside both jaws with Cratex to keep the pliers from slipping on the links. Closing the links with 'duck bill' pliers can also put a slight bow in the top of the link if needed. I have a couple folded oyster bracelets from Mary and had to force a tapered punch through the connecting links to allow 2mm springbars to pass through. I left the original connecting links in place and because the soldered tubes in the hoods would not line up with the lug holes (DW 5513 case), I removed the tubes and let the bracelet hold the hoods against the case. It works Ok and is about the same as a genuine rivet style bracelet with floppy hoods. I figure old bracelets are supposed to be floppy anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest zeleni kukuruz Posted October 9, 2012 Report Share Posted October 9, 2012 Here is what i used not completely done yet but it took me 10min to pul, cut and fold Hallow end link. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woof* Posted October 9, 2012 Report Share Posted October 9, 2012 Simple! Very clever Z! I bought one from Mary yesterday and will try this when it arrives. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest zeleni kukuruz Posted October 9, 2012 Report Share Posted October 9, 2012 Simple! Very clever Z! I bought one from Mary yesterday and will try this when it arrives. It takes one to know one mate a clever person that is! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Akira Posted October 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2012 Good choice Z. I had the same thought, but no hollow spare links unfortunately... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeyB Posted March 9, 2013 Report Share Posted March 9, 2013 Is there any way to size this bracelet? Add a link or remove a link? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest zeleni kukuruz Posted March 9, 2013 Report Share Posted March 9, 2013 Just wondering mr J, way do you want to remove one or ad one? The claps have 6-7 holes to ad the adjusment of your wrist and it should be ok for the big guy's, well lets not count "mike on his [censored] 68' year bike" but it should cover a blue wale wrist for sure, and even the smal guys wrist. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeyB Posted March 10, 2013 Report Share Posted March 10, 2013 Mostly because it doesn't. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest zeleni kukuruz Posted March 10, 2013 Report Share Posted March 10, 2013 Hmmm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nanuq Posted March 10, 2013 Report Share Posted March 10, 2013 I had to add two links to my 7836 to get it in the ballpark. Three would have been better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeyB Posted March 10, 2013 Report Share Posted March 10, 2013 How'dja doi t? Mine has no visual way to take it apart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cc33 Posted March 10, 2013 Report Share Posted March 10, 2013 To remove or add a link you have to open up the center, unfold and remove or add the link, then using a rubber hammer striking the lowest possible spot at the base of the metal you want bent back (right where it folds) until its flush. A bit confusing but here are a few pics curtesy of Michael Young. I couldn't get the pics in order but you get the idea.It's the same for folded and folded rivet btw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.