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Need info on the new non-ceramic GMT's from TD's


duke1973

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I'm wanting to pick up a GMT Master II (non-ceramic) with coke or pepsi bezel. The newest models from the TD's finally have superlume which is what I've been waiting for. But my question is.....How are they?

 

I would love to see some real world owner pics of one of the new sapphire crystal models. Or any of the Rolex masters who have looked at the pics of the newest superlumed offerings to tell me what flaws they see.

 

Thanks for help in advance,

 

Duke1973

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I'm wanting to pick up a GMT Master II (non-ceramic) with coke or pepsi bezel. The newest models from the TD's finally have superlume which is what I've been waiting for. But my question is.....How are they?

I have no idea.

Do you have pictures... or a link or something similar?

That would help to make a statement.

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Looks like they missed, again. They use the same case set with all the movements they use, so buying in cheaper to do a build is a nice option. But it looks from the pics on both Joshua and Andrew's sites that the rehaut is engraved and too 'wokky'. I don't think the 16710 came with an engraved rehaut at the end of it's run, but I'm not certain. Both suppliers have the "Rolex Elbem Etched on underside of Crystal at 6.00". 

 

http://www.1-pc8838.com/0rlgs00155-16710-bluered-asian-2813-p-13206.html

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Case is ok, cg's ok, crown is ok but other than that, it looks wrong in so many ways. Wok rehaut shape is the worst thing.

Stay away.

PS: JoeyB is right. There has never been a GMT 16710 with the ROLEXROLEX engraving. Apparently they can't even get the basics right. The sad thing is, they don't even bother to ask questions from the people WHO KNOW.

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What about brush and straight that rehaut, it would look pretty decent then ? Even the insert looks acceptable, The Dial is the other disaster I think.

I agree with BT they have the bloody Explorer case and all the elements to do a good

GMT II replica yet they keep doing these epic fails!!!! Why? :fool:  :bangin:  :protest:  :cc_hang:

Edited by Monito1975
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This is what BK posted a while ago, and I am in the midst of doing right now:

 

http://www.rwgforum.net/topic/144657-making-a-gen-style-16710-case-out-of-a-16570-case-and-tw-bezel-assembly/#entry1089607

 

With a bezel assembly from any of the aftermarket, and crystal, you can use the movement that comes with the Explorer, get a nice dial and it should be an easy swap. 

 

I am using the bezel assembly from Clark's, with crystal and insert. I intend on simply transplanting my dial and movement from my 'Retro'. The Retro case is not gen style crystal/bezel, and the lug holes are not drilled through all the way. In order to open those lug holes you need to use a split tip drill bit because the outside 1mm hole rarely lines up with the inside half-hole, and the bit 'walks' ruing the case. I ruined two cases before I made it work, and  inside the lug looks like garbage. The 16570 case looks good, I am having lug holes drilled from it being blind, and if it survives all that engrave the correct numbers in between the lugs.  I hope to have a nice 16710 rep when done.

 

But sometimes I think that 'smart' would be doing what By-Tor did  and get a genuine one! 

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"What about brush and straight that rehaut, it would look pretty decent then?"

 

Removing the lettering on the reflector (rehaut) is fairly easy but 'straightening' the rehaut comes with one problem...it increases the diameter of the dial seat 'window'. This may require a larger od dial (maybe not) and it may expose scratches around the od of the original dial if any are present.

If you need to make a 1.0mm cut to 'straighten' the rehaut, you have enlarged the dial window by 2.0mm thereby showing a lot more dial.

 

There are two basic ways to 'straighten' the rehaut...

1...Cut the outer edge of the dial seat window at a 90 degree angle to the dial to basically shorten the slope making it appear to be steeper.

note...

Some F520117 'noobmariners' came this way and since the rehaut did not have much area to begin with, it made the reflector portion appear to be too short.

2...Cut a steeper taper on the rehaut...hard to do without machine tools.

Both methods will result in a bigger dial window.

 

Imho 'wokky' cases should be avoided if possible.

 

 

"But sometimes I think that 'smart' would be doing what By-Tor did and get a genuine one!"

 

Wearing a genuine rlx watch would worry me to no end...just waiting for it to break down or fall apart. Then it's Ultra High $$ parts etc.  =@

That's why I like reeplickas.    :wub:

Imho genuines are for tradin' and sellin', not wearin'. :pimp:

 

Today it's a Paul/Abay Crazy Sale! 'comex 5514' with 2846, Clark bez kit, GS19, drilled lugs etc...a ten year old 'antique'. 

It would not fool anyone but me...  :prop:

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I´ve heard somebody had brushed the rehaut and then inserted a ring to imitate the small inner edge on the gen without widening the dial opening.

I have been looking for a solution for a decent GMT II and I might just try the BK explorer with a Clarks Bezel and this this Perfect clones Dial, ( I have been comparing with gen fotos and it is not so bad, some special treatment to the surface and new luminova and voilá), just wondering if it would fit ? 

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Ok... let me show you what's fundamentally wrong on these Chinese Rolex reps.

There's ZERO "front crystal thickness" or whatever we should call it. BK can probably explain.

Look at the red marked area on the gen. It's very essential look on all Rolexes from this era. It's thick and very noticeable.

11b2i4z.jpg

Then look at the rep. Even if you could somehow straighten the "wok" you still wouldn't have any thickness there.

14npgl3.jpg

This area was especially thick on the old Sea Dweller. I mean the real Dweller, not the new ugly & embarrassing Deepsea. The rep had almost ZERO thickness there.

Thus, the rep (SSD) looked completely different from the front view. So does this replication of 16710.

The only good alternative is to build it from different parts. The old Noob version was MUCH better & had this crystal issue covered pretty good (although didn't look all correct, either).

1s.jpg

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