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CAUTION when setting date on asian 2836-2


mymanmatt

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When setting your date on a an asian 2836-2 I suggest you do it this way. I have noticed a problem with the date corrector on the asian movement, since I have replaced several over the last couple of months. Ive noticed Asian movements have a very weak date corrector gear, that is why so many have problems with the date breaking and not changing. One simple practice should help keep your date wheel from breaking. Photo 1 shows the correct position for the date corrector when you are setting your date. Photo 2 shows the date corrector position right after the date has flipped over. If you try to roll the date forward in that position, the calandar wheel puts undue pressure on an already weak part of the date change assy. Simply roll your time forward closer to noon before you change the date, that will help to keep your date changing for a long time to come. Not a bad pratice for the swiss either. Just sharing some info with forum. You will notice less resitance when the time is close to noon, you can fell the tension when you try to set it close to midnight.

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Edited by mymanmatt
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"Simply roll your time forward closer to noon before you change the date, that will help to keep your date changing for a long time to come."

 

Good advice.

 

Swiss made Eta 2824/36 etc are made so if you try to set the date while it is getting ready to change...it will just flip over with no damage. It is still a good idea to change the date between 3am and 6pm though.

Seagull ST6 used in many replicas has a plastic date flipper that will sometimes break if you try to set the date when it is getting ready to change.

DG/NN will sometimes just go 'crunch' when the little quick set date flipper breaks...then it's time to make it go 'crunch' again by smacking it with a hammer.

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If you wear a watch in rotation, you don't know if it's close to midnight or noon when you pick it up. If you set the time first, you will know if its midnight or noon. Let's say you haven't worn it for a week. You pick it up and it died at 5 mins before 12. If you set the time ,and it changes immediately that was midnight. If it doesn't it was noon. Don't change it anywhere close to midnight. That one small practice, can save you from doing a repair

Edited by mymanmatt
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This is what I usually do - hopefully I am not messing anything up. In the morning, I select my watch. I set the date to one day before the current date (ie: today is the 7th, so I moved the date to 6). After that, I use the hands to move the date forward. Is this ok?

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Less great advice--Swiss ETA from a dealer is rarely worth it.

I never said anything about getting a SWISS ETA from a dealer. I am simply suggesting that anyone who has the option of going with swiss vs. asian should just go ahead with swiss. I would say its very poor advice to tell someone that can afford the alternate to go asian as we all know the swiss ETA is a much better movement. if they can not afford the difference then asian is a good alternate 

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I never said anything about getting a SWISS ETA from a dealer. I am simply suggesting that anyone who has the option of going with swiss vs. asian should just go ahead with swiss.

 

 

The only time you have an "option" of going "swiss vs. asian" is when ordering a watch from a dealer.

 

The factory may sell you a fairly new Sellita or (rare nowadays) ETA movement. They may sell you a very old Swiss movement out of an Enicar from the 70s that probably hasn't been serviced in two decades. They may sell you a clone anyway and tell you it's Swiss.

 

 

 I would say its very poor advice to tell someone that can afford the alternate to go asian as we all know the swiss ETA is a much better movement.

 

 

Not at all better. A good clone is pretty much identical to a Swiss movement. The trick is getting a good one.

 

What you pay for (and get, with a factory-sealed Swiss movement) is much, much better QC, proper lubrication, and that's about it. Virtually any part from a clone ETA will swap to a Swiss ETA with minimal problems.

 

 if they can not afford the difference then asian is a good alternate 

 

If you really want Swiss, buy the Asian clone and swap in a factory-fresh Swiss movement yourself. That's the only way to know what you're getting. Otherwise, ordering Swiss from a dealer is often just a waste of money.

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When you buy swiss in your new watch, you may, or may not, get gen swiss. It may be 10 years old. Best thing, buy asian, then buy a new fresh swiss and have you asian replaced. Then sell your asian to someone who needs it, because theirs broke. That way you know what you have in your watch, for sure.

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Great little snippet of advice, thanks Matt. Can't justify to the Minister for War & Finances, (AKA The missus) the cost difference between Swiss v Asian, so Asian it must be. So if I can look after it the best I can, it's all good.

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