CokeSmurf Posted April 12, 2013 Report Share Posted April 12, 2013 Hi guys! I was browsing puretime and TT for Hub classics, and started wondering the difference between the Asian 2824 and the Swiss ETA-2824, both at 28800vph. What is the real difference between these two movements? Which should i chose for minimal service, that is more "Fit and Forget", then having to fiddle with it. What is the difference in general between Swiss and Asian movements? Link to the specific watch from Puretime below. Furthurmore, how does the Asian 2892 and the Asian 7750 compare to these two movements, and their main differences to the ones stated above? Sorry for me seeming to be a newbie, i'm just trying to learn so i can contribute to the community later on! Thanks guys! http://puretime.co/product/big-bang-classic-fusion-45mm-11-all-black-on-black-rubber-strap/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jkay Posted April 12, 2013 Report Share Posted April 12, 2013 The Swiss piece and it's Asian clone are visually almost identical. Part fitment between them is very situational. Not guaranteed. If you have them both serviced, they will give you years of enjoyment. The real secret is having a skilled watch technician clean, inspect, and re-assemble the movements. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rolexman Posted April 12, 2013 Report Share Posted April 12, 2013 MD sums it up perfectly. Where are those 'clappy hands'? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CokeSmurf Posted April 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2013 Thanks for all the great anwers! Then on to the million dollar question, is anyone around the Stockholm (Sweden) area capable of servicing a watch in this manor? With this i mean people known to the forum (Ansers can be sent in PM), and not private watchmakers since they have a reputation of being very negative towards reps in Sweden, thanks to the general way of seeing things here. Sadly enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
automatico Posted April 13, 2013 Report Share Posted April 13, 2013 MD is right about the current batch of swisseta powered watches, there is no telling what you might get. A friend gave me a new '16610' with a doa swisseta 2836 to get running and it was so dirty it would not hit a lick...it was swiss though. How dirty was it? It was so dirty and gummed up that I removed the dial, balance etc and soaked it in naptha before taking it apart and sticking it in 'official' L$R watch cleaner. If I was going to buy a new or like new 'keeper' replica watch, I would get one with an asian 2824/36 and hope for the best. Meanwhile, I would scour eBay and find a reasonably priced watch with with a genuine Eta that will fit the 'keeper' watch, buy it, and put it away. When the asian etaclone breaks down (sooner or later), have the swiss eta c/o, stick it in the 'keeper' watch, and give the etaclone to a forum member for parts. Btw... Naptha aka mineral spirits is basically the same thing as petroleum based watch cleaner but a LOT cheaper. Coleman etc camp lantern fuel and cigarette lighter fluid are basically the same thing as petroleum base watch rinses. 'Ronson' the watch trader's favorite! Some brands of spray brake cleaner with perchloroethylene and tetrachloroethylene are just about the same thing as 'One Dip' hairspring cleaner. Tetrachloroethylene aka 'dry cleaning fluid' is used by commercial dry cleaners on fine fabrics. Walk into the back room of many high priced watch repair shops and you will see five things: Naptha aka mineral spirits. Coleman camp lantern fuel. Dawn dishwashing detergent for washing dirty clock and watch plates to conserve high priced cleaning fluid. Superglue. Acetone for removing superglue. Is there really any such thing as a 'keeper' replica watch? I have some I can not get rid of...maybe that is what they are. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 13, 2013 Report Share Posted April 13, 2013 (edited) Superglue. Acetone for removing superglue. What's the best way to remove superglue using acetone? I tried unsuccessfully and all the residue still remains. I superglued the endlinks on. Please don't laugh. I also managed to get acetone on the crystal. Does that affect the AR? Because now there is these seemingly permanent smudge on the crystal I can't get rid of. Edited April 13, 2013 by Guest Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martijnp Posted April 13, 2013 Report Share Posted April 13, 2013 Nice explanation from MD! What is the difference between 21J and 25J ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jkay Posted April 13, 2013 Report Share Posted April 13, 2013 4j Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
automatico Posted April 14, 2013 Report Share Posted April 14, 2013 "What's the best way to remove superglue using acetone? I tried unsuccessfully and all the residue still remains." Soak the part if you can. Be careful as acetone will melt some plastics. "I superglued the endlinks on. Please don't laugh." Ok. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martijnp Posted April 14, 2013 Report Share Posted April 14, 2013 JKay and MD yes I know, stupid What I mean, is a 25j much better then a 21j? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
automatico Posted April 14, 2013 Report Share Posted April 14, 2013 "What I mean, is a 25j much better than a 21j?" If '21j' = china made DG, NN, ST etc and '25j' = swiss Eta...the answer is a definite Yes (from experience). If '25j' = china etaclone...the answer is probably (imho). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rolexman Posted April 14, 2013 Report Share Posted April 14, 2013 "What I mean, is a 25j much better than a 21j?" If '21j' = china made DG, NN, ST etc and '25j' = swiss Eta...the answer is a definite Yes (from experience). If '25j' = china etaclone...the answer is probably (imho).Well I do believe the 21j 2892ers (ST and ETA) are 'ok' also Quality of a movement is not always related to the number of jewels. It depends on where those jewels are located and how the movement is designed. If you have 30 jewels all in the wrong place, you have a crappy movement.... Jewels are meant to reduce friction. A well designed movement could have less friction points and therefor less jewels. But it therefor isn't necessarily of inferior quality. En contraire! As a rule of thumb: forget jewel count and if a movement has a Swiss counterpart than one can presume it is a 'good' movements If and that is a big IF the movement is clean and properly oiled. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jkay Posted April 14, 2013 Report Share Posted April 14, 2013 The Asian 21j is a copy of the outstanding Citizen Miyota movement, and it's actually an improved copy, since it adds the hacking function. As has already been said, everything depends upon the cleanliness of the movement and how much care was taken when it was assembled.A Swiss eta movement from a used watch sold in 1970 without any cleaning could be sold to you as new in your replica. Also let me mention here that the Asia factories make 25 jewel movements too .. It's a very solid workhorse and appears in such watches as the Ulysse Nardin models and others. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest suntor Posted April 15, 2013 Report Share Posted April 15, 2013 (edited) Part fitment between them is very situational. Not guaranteed. If you have them both serviced, they will give you years of enjoyment. The real secret is having a skilled watch technician clean, inspect, and re-assemble the movements. _____________________________________________________________ Edited April 15, 2013 by Stephane No advertising in signature is allowed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knackeringham Posted April 15, 2013 Report Share Posted April 15, 2013 Yea jewel count doesn't really matter if the jewles aren't in the right places. I have a 77 jewel eta 2472 Movt and 60 of the jewels are.just decoration. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knackeringham Posted April 15, 2013 Report Share Posted April 15, 2013 That's funeeeee. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baglc1 Posted April 15, 2013 Report Share Posted April 15, 2013 Whats the best solution to remove my IWC from my wrist as i super glued it to my skin to hold the end links in place, please dont laugh. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
automatico Posted April 16, 2013 Report Share Posted April 16, 2013 (edited) "Well I do believe the 21j 2892ers (ST and ETA) are 'ok' also." You got me on that! I never think of the Eta 2892 when 21 jewel movements are cussed and discussed. I took the time to c/o a few asian Miyotaclones (DG/NN) and they ran Ok. I like the Seagull ST16 best of the Miyota clones...it is really a semi Miyotaclone and it is a Miyota 8215 clone with Seiko type autowinding. "It depends on where those jewels are located and how the movement is designed." My 100 jewel Waltham is proof of that. The Waltham 100 has a 17 jewel movement with 83 cap jewels mounted on the case spacer. http://people.timezone.com/library/workbench/workbench0025 Edited April 16, 2013 by automatico Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rolexman Posted April 16, 2013 Report Share Posted April 16, 2013 My 100 jewel Waltham is proof of that. The Waltham 100 has a 17 jewel movement with 83 cap jewels mounted on the case spacer. http://people.timezone.com/library/workbench/workbench0025 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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