Vintagerc10 Posted July 3, 2013 Report Share Posted July 3, 2013 Hi all, I'm a new member here and this is only my second post but after reading some member posts, I decided to take the plunge. I already whipped up a quick DJ but I thought I would really put my skills to the test. Ok so tell me if this looks impossible. I bought this cheap replica sub at a yard sale a few weeks ago. I took it apart and I know this sounds crazy but I would like to FILE the case down in order to remove the "steps" in the case to make it flat like a real case. I hope to be able to either use this case for a sub/gmt or preferably and with a bit more work, a vintage milgauss replica... Any thoughts? Thanks! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freddy333 Posted July 4, 2013 Report Share Posted July 4, 2013 Which of those pics are your new found rep? You might label them, so the rest of us can follow you. Depending on your skills, you may be able to successfully remove the crown guards (I assume those are the 'steps' you referred to), but the case is still too thick for a vintage (CG-less) Sub or GMT. Considering the condition of the case, a better (& more realistic) option would be to upgrade the dial/movement (assuming the original movement is not an ETA, which is a good movement), crown/tube (the tube is the threaded tube that screws into the side of the case onto which the crown screws down onto) & crystal with either genuine (gen) parts or better quality aftermarket parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintagerc10 Posted July 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2013 (edited) Hi, Sorry about that. Yes if I was planning on the milgauss I would have to remove the crown guards but the steps I am referring to are the machining that is around where the bezel would sit. It is not flat like an original case. Filing this down would make the case and lugs thinner like the original vintage case which is what I am trying to achieve. I am wondering if CAREFULLY filing the case down seems possible. I have no real experience with stainless steel, only aluminum... Anyways, I have tons of original parts like bezels and crystals (just won about 70 on eBay), and a few mens datejust cases, but I just can't afford to make a replica of a vintage GMT out of an original case, and anything Milgauss is just way too pricey... PLUS the fun is trying to make something, right? Wish me luck, I think I am going to need it Edited July 4, 2013 by Vintagerc10 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SSTEEL Posted July 4, 2013 Report Share Posted July 4, 2013 If you want to remove/flatten the circumference around the bezel area, you would be better off machining it, or with a flat sander as to ensure the whole area is completely flat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denimhead Posted July 4, 2013 Report Share Posted July 4, 2013 If its a Milgauss 6541 then you may want to have a quick look at the one i wrote a post about a couple of days ago. Hopefully it will help. Cheers DH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freddy333 Posted July 4, 2013 Report Share Posted July 4, 2013 Before you begin, you might want to read this 1st. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintagerc10 Posted July 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2013 (edited) Before you begin, you might want to... Being that I am using the Silix case also, albeit mine started as a sub 8208, I completely understood instantly. Did you solve the issue? I would go ahead and grind that lip off taking note where the retaining clip sat height wise and grind a grove where it sat. Then I would have got some of the same size wire the clip was made of and bent up a new piece that had a slightly smaller inside diameter so it would still lock into the groove you cut, which I would assume the stock clip won't anymore and that would keep the bezel retained as designed and give you a little more room to drop your insert since the lip will be gone now.... How's that for a run on sentence! Edited July 5, 2013 by Vintagerc10 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintagerc10 Posted July 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2013 (edited) My hands hurt but here is where I got tonight.... First I did half the case and took pictures. Edited July 5, 2013 by Vintagerc10 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintagerc10 Posted July 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2013 (edited) ...and then I finished the rest of the case, and started to smooth out one side with a finer file and a little work on the lugs. So far so good. I also took the lip off of mine as I would like to use a crystal that slips over the rehault (?) Anybody have any thoughts or suggestions. I would appreciate any input. Thanks! Edited July 5, 2013 by Vintagerc10 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GarrettP1 Posted July 6, 2013 Report Share Posted July 6, 2013 Very nice work with hand tools. I look forward to seeing the finished product. Garrett 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cc33 Posted July 6, 2013 Report Share Posted July 6, 2013 I don't think you can put a crystal that slips over the rehaut because it has a built in step inside the lip where the crystal was, it would look very strange to see a step in the rehaut. I believe you can pull this off but you need a custom made retaining ring that sits flush and tight with your case after modding it so the bezel has something to attach to. You might need to lower the outer wall of the rehaut it looks too tall after lowering the case profile Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cc33 Posted July 6, 2013 Report Share Posted July 6, 2013 Sorry if this makes no sense but the more I look at the case, the more I think that you can sand down the height of the outer rehaut wall and prob completely eliminate that top step. Then you would have to measure the outer diameter and see if there's a tropic crystal that would fit over it. Again you would need a custom made retaining ring that would fit tightly over the crystal and accept your bezel.. So exact measurements a must! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintagerc10 Posted July 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2013 I don't think you can put a crystal that slips over the rehaut because it has a built in step inside the lip where the crystal was, it would look very strange to see a step in the rehaut. You might need to lower the outer wall of the rehaut it looks too tall after lowering the case profile I agree with both statements. I would like to remove the step in order to lower the wall.Sorry if this makes no sense but the more I look at the case, the more I think that you can sand down the height of the outer rehaut wall and prob completely eliminate that top step. Then you would have to measure the outer diameter and see if there's a tropic crystal that would fit over it. Again you would need a custom made retaining ring that would fit tightly over the crystal and accept your bezel.. So exact measurements a must! It certainly would, but first I have to measure the inside diameter of the wall compared to the outside, I don't want things getting too thin. I was hoping to find a crystal that slips over (I have quite a few). I'm not sure what kind of bezel I would like to use yet but, I need for a retaining ring for a sub bezel right? I had to work today, so no new progress, but I appreciate the ideas and will think about them. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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