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18039 Day-Date Build


wiesn089

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Hi, 

 

just a few days ago I was able to buy a beautiful and pretty rare slate grey Day-Date dial for a 18039 in NOS condition B) .

 

18039Slate03.jpg

 

So far so good :).

 

I immediately started researching a SS Day-Date build similar to Ubi's and Valty's 1803s based on Datejust cases. To my surprise the period correct Day-Date models 180XX had sapphire crystals installed already, whereas the 160XXs Datejusts of that era still came with plastic crystals.

Since my dial will only fit a 3055 movement which premiered in the 180XX Day-Dates and not a 1565 movement from the 1803s a sapphire case is a must for me. Luckily the later 162XX Datejusts from the 90s do come with sapphire crystals and the case dimensions should not have changed dramatically compared to the earlier 160XXs. So now I'm thinking about building a SS Day-Date based on one of these cases, preferably a 16234 with a WG fluted bezel already installed. 

 

Do you guys think a 3055 will fit a 162XX case made for a 3135 movement? Any idea what I will need to calculate for a 3055 Day-Date movement and NOS hands and if these are even available? Will a WG 180XX crown fit a 162XX case without further modifications? If I was able to source a 3055 at a reasonable price this project should not be totally ridiculous and I will be able to get it finished for less than half of what a 18039 on a leather strap will set me back?

 

Am I missing something here? Do you think I should embark on this project or should I just sell the dial and go for a 1803 build or even a gen birthyear DJ 160XX? I just love hunting for parts, and that dial had me mesmerized immediately.  :wub:

On the other hand I don't want this project to last an eternity again and even more important burn another bottomless hole into my pockets. ;)

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The biggest problem with the DD builds is that there was no steel DD, except that prototype 1803 - the one Ubi and Valty have built.

 

Visually, there is just a significant difference between a steel and a white-gold case.

 

So if you use a DJ case for your 18039 dial - you'll build a non-existing watch.

 

The 18039 would only work with a gen white-gold DD case.

 

 

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Thanks guys. Yeah I know about the precious metal cases, but to be honest, that's not something I worry about.

SS DDs have been produced in such small numbers that you won't "get away" with wearing one and discussing it with someone in the know anyways. Imo Gold watches are great, but I just don't see myself shelling out 6k Euro for an overpolished 1803 or 18039 on a strap. When it comes to nice examples somebody usually has put a semi-franken italian President bracelet on it and is asking 10k+ for it.

For me the value is in the dial, the movement and quality of the case. Because these would all be gen Rolex I'm fine with that.  

 

Btw.: Here's its eternally lasting, bottomless hole buddy ;)

 

 

post-24760-0-32706900-1386514608_thumb.j

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It might work if the stem position on the 3055 lines up correctly in the 16234 case tube.

Another option to keep in mind is the 16014 case- same deal- and if it worked you could do one of the sapphire crystal conversions.

The tube on the 16234 is the smaller one- with the 2.5mm hole in the case- don't know if a WG crown will fit that tube or not, but you could always fall back on the ss crown- no one will know the difference. The 16014 case uses the older 6mm tube with the 3.0mm hole, 24-6000 tube or 24-6020 maybe.

On the 1803 builds, the case was the 16000 DJ case that's modified by Phong- not a cheap mod- where the inside rehaut is raised (shaved on a lathe)so the movement and piepan dial fit correctly in the case. Hopefully you can get by w/o such a mod.

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Hmm, why is that? Too big a height difference?

 

Here are the heights of the various movements:

 

1556 (DD 1803): 7.03mm 

3035 (DJ 16000): 6.35mm

3055 (DD 18000): 7.11mm

3135 (DJ 16200): 6.00mm

3155 (DD 18200): 6.45mm

 

If a case made for a 6.35mm movement can be made to fit a 7.03mm movement, I should at least be able to fit a 3155 (6.45mm) in a 16200 case (6.00mm) with some modifications, shouldn't I? Feet location on a 3155 and 3055 should be the same... 

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Looking at the dimensions, I was thinking that a 3155 movement might fit in a 3035 DJ case being that there is only .10 mm difference. But once again, stem height could be a factor here. And a 3155 would be expensive- I would figure it would run $1750-2000.

I wonder how the dial would do on a 2836-2/2834-2 movement in a rep case?

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As for me the main appeal in frankens is in the movement and the dial, a gen movement is a must for me. I might have the chance to purchase a 16234 case and a 3155 movement. The case will probably need the rehaut reduced, but other than that I should be fine, I guess. I wonder if Phong is really the only one capable of doing this, with correct dimensions it shouldn't be too difficult for another professional I hope...

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The foot location is different. The conversion they did on the 3035 involved a new dial ring on the top of the movement. It also included the mecanisim to dive the day wheel. Very cool conversion. However,many dealers in dallas got stuck with them. When they opened the case they saw 3035 not 3055. After removing the movement, and I did a couple, the conversion was apparent. The ring on the top of the 3035 added height and had the holes for the presidents dial. It also increased the diameter of the movement. I have some aftermarket 18038 cases in stainless if that will help. They don't make them anymore.

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Just saw you question about a 2836 in a rep case. You DO NOT have to cut the feet on a presidents dial. Simply notch the movement ring where the feet are. The feet on a presidents dial sit ouside a 2836-2. It's actually easier to mount a pres dial than a gen datejust dial.  HELLO!! YOU SAW WHERE YOU DO NOT HAVE TO CUT THE FEET ON A PRESIDENTS DIAL!!!
 

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I have a gen black president daydate dial that I am going to put into one of my Franken datejusts. It's all gen construction with eta 2836. I'm going to swap in the pres dial and put on a yuki 7206 bracelet. I'm going to go with the stainless president 6611 look or whatever that watch is. I think it will make a nice looking watch especially with the rivet bracelet installed for the vintage look and feel.

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I don't bother with gen movements. I go for as much gen construction as possible and then use a good ETA movement. Just as reliable. The only watch I would use a gen type movement in is a v72 or a El Primero in a Daytona. I might put a gen 1570 into my mbw1680 if I ever came across a good deal on one but only because I plan on keeping that one forever. The 1680 has always been my favorite Rolex. I'm working on a 6152/1 panerai right now and as soon as I get this one sorted out, in going to get a Yuki 7206 and build this stainless president. I've been holding onto this black day date dial for a while now. Can't wait to put it to good use.

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