Mendota Explorer Posted April 23, 2015 Report Share Posted April 23, 2015 I thought I would show off the new dancing shoes for my little honey, here. At the same time I wanted to show some pleasant surprises I discovered along the way. Just for the record, this is a Puretime red 1680 with ETA 2846 and a gen, vintage 7mm crown. Stock crystal, dial, hands, and insert/pearl. I purchased the watch in 2011 from Angus and it I wear it regularly. I celebrated my birthday recently, and one of the gifts my wife gave me was a handmade strap from Martu. Andrea is based in Chile and she is great to work with. She has a lot of options with very reasonable prices. I found out about her through other threads here and on the other boards. First off, I removed the 93150 bracelet, 580 endlinks, and shouldered rep bars that came with the watch. I really like Oyster bracelets, so I plan to do a lot of switching back and forth between the two. Ugh, I hate the rep bars and the fact that because they are shouldered, there is nothing protruding through the lugholes. Notice the black hole where no tips are visible! Sadly, I have to use rep bars until I get better fitting endlinks that work with my 2mm gen spec bars. With my current endlinks, the tips of the gen spec bars don't quite line up with the lugholes, so I can't use them with the Oyster. I don't want to have to keep changing bars depending on what I'm using for a band. One set should be plenty, so this means I either have get WSO endlinks (that work with 2mm gen bars) or switch to 1.8mm shoulderless bars, which is also a good option. In the end I think the WSO endlinks will prevail since this will allow me to use the correct 2mm size bars. Anyway, after cleaning the lug area I noticed that my case has correct engravings! The 12 o'clock side of the case is engraved with Original Rolex Design 1680. The 6 o'clock side is engraved with Stainless Steel and then the serial number beginning with L. This is the part that is not period correct for my watch. A serial # beginning with L puts it at 1989, which is not correct for a 1680, let alone a red Mark I/II dial! My dial variation is from approximately 1969, so the serial should be a mid to high 2 million number. If I *really* wanted to get accurate, I could send my case to JMB and have him engrave a new serial number for me and at the same time machine a custom retainer ring for the case. Perhaps someday. In the meantime, the only engravings visible when wearing the strap are the top line, not the serial # text or 1680 text, so not having the right serial is irrelevant to me. After installing my 2mm gen spec bars into the strap, I mounted it on my watch. The result is quite nice, if I do say so myself. For one, I can finally see spring bar tips protruding through the lugholes. This is a tiny thing that no normal human would ever notice, but those of us who enjoy vintage Rolex really appreciate this detail. I just wish the tips came a little closer to the edge of the case. This might be a function of the bars that I am using. I am using Yuki bars. Maybe another set would be better? Here are some glamor shots to show off the new look: Thanks for looking! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
droptopman Posted April 23, 2015 Report Share Posted April 23, 2015 Great looking piece and I really like the strap. Nice of the wife to partake in the hobby with you. WSO 580's oddly seem to fit everything pretty well. I keep a few sets around and with minor tweaking seem to work better than the end links that are suppose to be on certain pieces. Plus they take 2mm bars without modification. So a good cheap investment. Bookers Bourbon is one of my Dad's favorites. I quit drinking many years ago so never tasted it but I get him a bottle every so often. Nice pictures by the way. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sgtguk Posted April 23, 2015 Report Share Posted April 23, 2015 Love the watch and the strap too mate I love bracelets on my rollies but the right piece on leather looks bloody awesome ! Btw thats some Bourbon your dads got 64+ % wow I'm sticking to the Jim Beam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beachcomber Posted April 23, 2015 Report Share Posted April 23, 2015 Very nice looking Sub and a red one at that, one of my faves. I had the real thing once and miss it every day. I'm a gin man myself, but I appreciate a good bourbon . Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mendota Explorer Posted April 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2015 Great looking piece and I really like the strap. Nice of the wife to partake in the hobby with you. WSO 580's oddly seem to fit everything pretty well. I keep a few sets around and with minor tweaking seem to work better than the end links that are suppose to be on certain pieces. Plus they take 2mm bars without modification. So a good cheap investment. Bookers Bourbon is one of my Dad's favorites. I quit drinking many years ago so never tasted it but I get him a bottle every so often. Nice pictures by the way. Thanks for the compliments. That means a lot. I am putting together my order right now for the WSO 580 ends and I am also picking up a new set of better spring bars that are closer overall to gen than the Yuki. The pins should reach the ends of the holes with these new ones. I think the springs in the Yuki are a little weaker or maybe the pins aren't quite as long. I'll save the Yuki bars for my upcoming ghetto 6538! I'm looking forward to trying the Booker's. My dad gave this to me. He's a big Scotch fan and I always get him a bottle for special occasions. I am more of a mixer, personally, and I like to experiment with different bourbons using my same cocktail, so having something like this that deserves to be enjoyed neat or with a splash of water/ice is going to be interesting. Over Christmas I opened a bottle of the Evan Williams single barrel vintage and I liked that one. This is many notches higher on the shelf, in fact some of the bourbon bloggers prefer this one overall to Pappy. I haven't tried either one, and my palate is immature, so who knows. My usual rotation of mixers are Maker's and Maker's 46, Jim Beam White and Black, Evan Williams, with Early Times and good old Jack D thrown in there. This high end stuff is a new experience for me! Not to sound nerdy, but I actually signed up to be an ambassador for Maker's a couple of years ago. Every Christmas they mail me a felt stocking cap for one of my bottles or last year they sent me a knit scarf to wrap around a bottle. Clever marketing tricks like that. Well, they also put my name on a barrel head. In about 3 or 4 years when my barrel gets bottled, I can go down to the Maker's distillery, tour the facility, and then buy some bottles from my barrel! I don't know if I can buy the actual barrel head itself as a souvie, or even the brass plate that is on the barrel head, but that would be cool if I could. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mendota Explorer Posted April 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2015 Very nice looking Sub and a red one at that, one of my faves. I had the real thing once and miss it every day. I'm a gin man myself, but I appreciate a good bourbon . Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Thanks Beachcomber! I really like the wrist presence of this. It feels perfect and the red accent on the dial speaks to me. I feel fortunate that my birth year of 1972 is still within the red 1680 production range. Someday I plan to reward myself with a gen red from my birth year. I found a nice one 3 years ago but it was overseas and I also didn't have the funds to do it. Someday! I can definitely see why you miss yours. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dieselpower Posted April 24, 2015 Report Share Posted April 24, 2015 That's a damn fine looking 1680. I love it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rusky158 Posted April 24, 2015 Report Share Posted April 24, 2015 Nice package there wear it in good health Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mendota Explorer Posted April 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2015 ^ Thanks diesel and rusky! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DVNE Posted April 24, 2015 Report Share Posted April 24, 2015 I love your natural aged PT 1680. It really looks great. I had a couple pass through my hands and I regret parting with them every time I see pictures of yours. Open up the inner cg a little if you can.. and if you decide to part with it, lmk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beachcomber Posted April 24, 2015 Report Share Posted April 24, 2015 Thanks Beachcomber! I really like the wrist presence of this. It feels perfect and the red accent on the dial speaks to me. I feel fortunate that my birth year of 1972 is still within the red 1680 production range. Someday I plan to reward myself with a gen red from my birth year. I found a nice one 3 years ago but it was overseas and I also didn't have the funds to do it. Someday! I can definitely see why you miss yours. I just found it terribly uncomfortable wearing 14 grand on my wrist, 5 yes, but it was just too much. I work in a fairly conservative school and it just felt wrong for me. Maybe when I retire but for now a simple 5513 will have to suffice. Looks superb though. Congratulations. I don't want want to steal your thread, but I have to show you my ex. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pam007 Posted April 24, 2015 Report Share Posted April 24, 2015 It looks the part and I love a good ol sub on nice leather shoes Instead of getting the correct engravings (As this would add no value to your watch), I would get a Athaya 702 Crown and Tubes. The crown you currently have are for modern sapphire subs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mendota Explorer Posted April 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2015 (edited) @Beachcomber - wow, that piece was beautiful. Stunning. Do you remember which year yours was produced? Looks very similar to the one I had found from '72. The one I found a few years ago was supposedly all original. It was being sold by a very reputable Italian watch dealer and jeweler for around $9,900. I don't think it had all of the original box and papers, but I can't remember now. If it had been 2005 pre-recession, I would have done it in a heartbeat. In fact, I would have flown over and made a trip out of it. I miss those days! Sigh. I love your natural aged PT 1680. It really looks great. I had a couple pass through my hands and I regret parting with them every time I see pictures of yours. Open up the inner cg a little if you can.. and if you decide to part with it, lmk Thanks DVNE. I thought about how I wanted to handle this one, since it was my first vintage piece, and I decided that I wanted to have the NOS, well cared for look and just let it age naturally. I treat my belongings well, and I have seen a lot of vintage pieces that have been extremely well cared for. That sealed the deal for me. That was even before I had started seeing the amazing super genken builds over here that are also pristine and in NOS condition. I need to take the sheen off the dial markers and if I could add a slight bit of texture to the markers as well, the dial would be perfect. I want to change the crystal for a T19. MD2020 tried doing this for me (before he went rogue on everyone here) but the crystal cracked right away. I think he needed to finesse it, after reading up on how others have successfully added gen and gen spec crystals to the PT. I'll try doing it myself and at the same time address the dial markers. I'll work up the courage to address the crown guards someday. A hair off the inner edge and then just taking a hair off the outer tip of the guards would create a perfect gen profile. It looks the part and I love a good ol sub on nice leather shoes Instead of getting the correct engravings (As this would add no value to your watch), I would get a Athaya 702 Crown and Tubes. The crown you currently have are for modern sapphire subs. I agree with you. Engravings are a waste, IMO, especially since 3 out of the 4 lines are already perfect. Only the serial # that is wrong and if anyone were to see it and know what it meant, then that's an opportunity to develop a new WIS friend! Yes, the Athaya 702 would be a perfect upgrade and it is on my list. The PT tube accepts gen and gen spec crowns as is - would I need the Athaya tube, as well? I bought my crown from a great gen vintage parts seller in Switzerland. He labeled it as vintage 7mm and I never knew what 7xx number it was. So this one is for sapphire crystal subs? What part number would it be? Edited April 24, 2015 by Mendota Explorer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mendota Explorer Posted April 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2015 It looks the part and I love a good ol sub on nice leather shoes Instead of getting the correct engravings (As this would add no value to your watch), I would get a Athaya 702 Crown and Tubes. The crown you currently have are for modern sapphire subs. @Pam007 - after doing some research it appears the early red subs all came with 700 crowns, and during service were replaced with triplocks . Athaya offers both a 700 and a 702 and they are both fantastic. Which would be more desirable for an accurate build? Would you go 702 or 700? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pam007 Posted April 28, 2015 Report Share Posted April 28, 2015 @Pam007 - after doing some research it appears the early red subs all came with 700 crowns, and during service were replaced with triplocks . Athaya offers both a 700 and a 702 and they are both fantastic. Which would be more desirable for an accurate build? Would you go 702 or 700? 702. Most Red's I've seen have 702's on them. Same DNA as the 700 + an Extra Gasket. 700's I see on early/mid 60's 5513 and Tudor Subs 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mendota Explorer Posted April 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2015 (edited) 702. Most Red's I've seen have 702's on them. Same DNA as the 700 + an Extra Gasket. 700's I see on early/mid 60's 5513 and Tudor Subs @pam007 - Thank you VERY much for your insight. You really pointed me in the right direction. I appreciate it. I'm thinking a proper relume with Big Dazza might be needed for the dial and hands, too. The markers have too much going against them. They are flat, shiny, and completely smooth all at the same time. They don't have that raised and grainy/textured look that real tritium has. I think a proper relume is probably the only way to achieve this overall appearance unless there is a DIY method. Edited April 28, 2015 by Mendota Explorer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pam007 Posted April 28, 2015 Report Share Posted April 28, 2015 @pam007 - Thank you VERY much for your insight. You really pointed me in the right direction. I appreciate it. I'm thinking a proper relume with Big Dazza might be needed for the dial and hands, too. The markers have too much going against them. They are flat, shiny, and completely smooth all at the same time. They don't have that raised and grainy/textured look that real tritium has. I think a proper relume is probably the only way to achieve this overall appearance unless there is a DIY method. Be very careful that when you re-lume, it doesn't look like boobs... Real Tritium plots on 1680 dials are flat matte. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mendota Explorer Posted April 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2015 Be very careful that when you re-lume, it doesn't look like boobs... Real Tritium plots on 1680 dials are flat matte. Uff da! So maybe just matting my markers and dulling that shiny finish is all that is needed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dhistory Posted May 7, 2015 Report Share Posted May 7, 2015 The new strap looks really good on this piece bud. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mendota Explorer Posted May 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2015 ^ Thanks @Dhistory! I recently ordered some WSO 580 endlinks and new gen-spec springbars for it. The WSO endlinks should fit better than my Puretime ones do, and I'm hoping the new springbars will also be a better overall fit with the watch and bracelet. The Yuki bars were inexpensive (only $4 or $5 shipped) and I just feel like they might be a little on the cheap side. I don't have a caliper, but I think they might be slightly on the shorter side because the springs have very weak tension. The new ones are supposed to be a much closer to gen bar and very strong spring tension. The caliper measurements are identical to gen bars. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Serenity Posted May 9, 2015 Report Share Posted May 9, 2015 Which bars did you order? I bought some gen spec Startime Supply springbars and they've been working great so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mendota Explorer Posted May 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2015 Which bars did you order? I bought some gen spec Startime Supply springbars and they've been working great so far. A member over on RWI pointed me to these. He said they are fantastic bars, so I decided to give them a try. I only have my Yukis as a comparison, so I'll let you know how they compare once they arrive. I guess a big problem with cheap bars is the internal springs are just weak enough that the pins don't fully extend. You don't even notice it unless you get out a caliper and compare to gen. I should really get one! http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Fat-20mm-Spring-Bar-for-Rolex-Submariner-5513-Sea-Dweller-1655-1665-RL-SB6-/400904811191?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5d57c9f2b7 How much are the Startime bars? Do you have to have an account to purchase them? I had read recently that they stopped selling parts to regular people. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Serenity Posted May 21, 2015 Report Share Posted May 21, 2015 How much are the Startime bars? Do you have to have an account to purchase them? I had read recently that they stopped selling parts to regular people. Sorry, I completely missed your questions! The Startime bars were around the same price of those eBay ones, if I recall correctly. I had a fellow member here (who has an account) order them for me. Definitely worth the expense! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mendota Explorer Posted May 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2015 Sorry, I completely missed your questions! The Startime bars were around the same price of those eBay ones, if I recall correctly. I had a fellow member here (who has an account) order them for me. Definitely worth the expense! No problem. Do you know how they compare to WSO springbars? The Ebay ones I mentioned have flat tips so I ended up not ordering them. I'm using my Yuki bars for the time being, which actually aren't that bad after all. I think it's just my leather strap that is interfering with how they sit. When they are installed in the watch head alone they look fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pam007 Posted May 21, 2015 Report Share Posted May 21, 2015 Star Time Bars : Dbane did a review of them http://www.rwgforum.net/topic/175027-spring-bars/?hl=%2Bst+%2Bbars Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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