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Daytona Movement Help Needed Id'ing issues


Frosty5

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Hello, I have had this my only REP for going on 5 yrs--researched and long before I was here, or knew of other TD's> Great piece, even thru a racing accident was only mangled crystal that was replaced.

However, it has over the past yr began gaining time like 3-5mins per day! :(

 

2 questions, first I paid for the swiss ETA and could someone please advise to make sure this is the Swiss ETA bc there are no markings or indicators other than than obv blue screw.

 

Secondly, what needs to be adjusted or possibly replaced to help aid in the time control aspect, I realize there will be a +/- effect, but it was AMAZINGLY accurate before this past yr.

 

Thanks everybody, and I appreciate all advice or opinions as always....I have learned a great deal over he past year from yrs of knowledge I already had, and this is a great place to keep expanding upon, so I thank you kindly for that

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yeah, exactly.until I get further I have no knowing..if you read (non sarcastic tone btw) above, I bought this 5 yrs ago (actually was gifted it, but gave the item heavily researched first)...LONG before I knew of other rep communities; and the dealer at the time which I could poss track down thru REALLY old emails was selling Asian, ETA or Italian movements...My aunt not being cheap person by any means I was assuming listened to me and actually bought the ETA until I had the need to actually open it finally today

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I'm sure you know more now from hanging out here, but to my knowledge a true Swiss ETA movement wasn't ever offered in a Daytona rep, and even if the base movement had been ETA, it would have had a whole bunch of Chinese parts added to it to move the running seconds from the 9 o'clock position to 6 o'clock.

 

Unfortunately for you (assuming a premium was paid for the ETA upgrade) is that what you have there appears to be a standard A2813 movement. When put in a Daytona, that means non working chronograph. It's the cheapest possible option you could have for a movement. Also love the 16610 (Submariner reference) on the bracelet. You are looking at the typical "canal Street" rep Daytona. Amazing that it's been a good watch for that long really.

 

These are available now for less than $150 at most of the TD's. Your other option would be to have someone replace the movement, or service it, but you'd be better off just picking up a new one.

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Thx for all the above comments...yeah it is an amazing piece ironically enough and I am unsure what sites I used for research earlier to find this piece.

I will dig through old emails, I am sure I could get a name but doubt that the site would be around given its name....and yes the seconds and other features were always hit or miss.

I will pull apart the coils and adjust hairsprings or replace bc as for accuracy it was top notch ironically, and looks legit many dealers have been thrown off by it even which is odd...of course I mainly love it bc I attend the race every yr for the past 2 decades, so thats where the lust came for this item.

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Frosty, consider that you got 5 good years out of a $100 watch and move on. Nobody services those movements, they are throw aways. And with a Daytona and the additional pushers you can't even have it replaced for less that the cost of a new one of the same quality.

 

You can either read up on how to regulate the movement yourself or consider it a total loss because it's just not worth putting any more money into.

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Hmm imagine that, sites down, I found this one after digging through emails, was definitely purchased through here, and the Itallian vs teh Swiss movement option, aunt stated paid for Swiss ETA lol, oh well its beena fine piece and furthering my investigation skills and knowledge now. Yes the 16 steel submariner band always made me laugh...

here is what was the site..

 

http://www.replicas2you.com/replica-rolex.php

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Frosty, consider that you got 5 good years out of a $100 watch and move on. Nobody services those movements, they are throw aways. And with a Daytona and the additional pushers you can't even have it replaced for less that the cost of a new one of the same quality.

 

You can either read up on how to regulate the movement yourself or consider it a total loss because it's just not worth putting any more money into.

Yeah I will def just play round w it and enjoy it, as long as I can get it somewhat running on time again I am fine, def not belaboring the point...also think it was closer to $400 my aunt paid as a gift, so theres some sentimental value :) but its interesting to dig into things, at least for me it is.

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