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Rolex 1016 better opinion case set


Guest uomo1001

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This seems a bit different than NDT´s previous 1016 replacement case in therms of lug holes. The previous one didn´t have any!

In all those years, I do not remember that someone had tested that case out. No one (from us on rwg) can tell if that case is compatible with genuine parts and is water resistant, put aside the details like side profile (unkown?) and one special thing that is evident is the bottom lug shape is lathed, it is typical more for a later 80´s Explorer 1016 case design not the 60´s 70´s versions. As far as I know the Space Dweller was introduced in 1963.

Commenting the price of 900$, well it is galactically unrealistic! Neither Yuki´s case set is recommendable as someone had tested it out here on RWG years ago ...

There are a few options you may have and those require specific modifications to be done by a modder.

Either you get a gen 16200 (alternative 1601) case and let a modder modify the lug profile and bottom, add propper lug holes, or you get JMB´s 16200 case and let that being modded.

I would warmly suggest JMB´s DJ16200 case to start from as it is the more budget friendly route and you would have a top notch condition case, because that stainless steel wouldn´t be aged like a 40 years old case.

Edited by blue.
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If I was putting a '1016' together with an ETA movement, I would go with a JMB case. If I was putting a '1016' together with a genuine rolex 1560/70 I would go with a rolex 162xx case with lug holes drilled to spec. Cutting the lug tops down is an option but an expensive and/or time consuming option so I let it go. The 1570 will drop right in a 162xx case using a genspec dial. A genuine 160xx case is made for a thicker movement (3035) and is Ok for an ETA but is not a precise fit for a 1570. Genuine 160x cases are Ok but they are getting expensive and many are rough and/or badly corroded.

The 160xx cases are closer in profile than the 162xx cases but as I said, a 1570 is not a good fit in a 160xx case. I have a '1016' made using a 162xx case and an ETA 2846. It had a 1570 in it at first and I removed the 1570, cut the dial feet off, and installed the same dial using a 'Stilty' spacer and ST hands. It was a drop in fit. I used a GS 22 crystal and a ST smooth sapphire bezel machined to fit the 22 crystal along with an oem 6mm crown.

Here is approximately what the 162xx project cost with the ETA:

162xx case without bezel...$150  I've had the case a long time and they might be a little bit more $$ now.

dial...$110

hands...$15

crystal...$12

bezel...$15

used genuine crown...$25

ETA 2846...$70

Stilty spacer...$25

hollow link bracelet and hoods...$75

gaskets, springbars etc...$15

total...$512

If labor to c/o movement, machine bezel, drill lug holes, and put it all together were added it would probably be over $600. A rolex 1570 would add another $700 to $1000.

The same ETA powered watch with a JMB case would cost about the same, be just as good, and look closer to genuine.

 

 

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The gen 162xx case is going to be a lot more than $150 now. Probably at least double. You also can't find a Stilty ring anymore as he's been gone for a long time. There are other options for a 3135 based case, like raffles-time or TC.

As for the 2846, I must have gotten lucky. I found two in Swiss Military donor watches for $30 each ... :)

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The "donor" movements I've gotten lately all needed worn parts replaced along with a service which is the mail reason I switched to the clones.  Now, just need a good low-beat clone movement besides a21j...

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"Hey R, I'd sure like one of those 2846s for $70 !"

I did not have the heart to say it was nos.  :pimp:    I paid $65 each for a few of them plus a few bucks shipping a few years back = about $70. I c/o one and removed the date guts for the '1016' project. They run fine but do not keep precise time when they get close to running down, a 2824/36 seems to keep better time when low on power. You need to keep them 'shook up'.

 

"The gen 162xx case is going to be a lot more than $150 now. Probably at least double. You also can't find a Stilty ring anymore as he's been gone for a long time."

The case has a small dent in the back and that is why it was not a whole lot of $$. When Stilty left town he sent me some extra parts along with some stuff I bought and there were a few of his adapter/spacers in it. Some of the generic brass spacers from Raffles Time etc can be machined to match them but you need a lathe.

 

"As for the 2846, I must have gotten lucky. I found two in Swiss Military donor watches for $30 each..."

Very good deal. It's strange...many times you can buy a complete running watch for less than a movement. Stranger still is what has happened to many brands of solid gold watches...a complete running watch will often sell for less than the case will bring for scrap.

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The "donor" movements I've gotten lately all needed worn parts replaced along with a service which is the mail reason I switched to the clones.  Now, just need a good low-beat clone movement besides a21j...

I had both of mine serviced and the date mechanisms removed because they were going in no-date builds (1016,5514). I got lucky, because both were running great prior to my shipping them off though. There was an eBay seller in the Philippines that always seemed to have several "Swiss Military" watches for sale.

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As other have mentioned, that case price is crazy... Not a chance would I spend that for a so-so case on a rep. Also, that crown looks too big, but might just be angles.

I have a slow beat JMB build, recently "updated" to include a  T-21 crystal (domed) which required a custom bezel, also by JMB. Top notch service and a great guy to work with.

A good 1016 is a hard one to come by, there are plenty of bad ones, and some so-so ones. JMB's are among the best, particularly for the price.

 

 

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That 1016 looks pretty good- three little niggledy things- the minute hand could be a tad longer- was it rafflestime that has a 13mm minute hand? Crown could screw down a little bit more on the case tube and if you crimped/squeezed the end pieces they might look better against the case. But it looks good!

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