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How2make a LEGACY-GPF strap [pics heavy]


ricardmg

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Hi!

Resting in my little flat by the sea this summer, I received an order from a kind customer, very satisfied with last strap made for him. Although I was in holidays, I had a 'lite' kit for strapmaking with me, so I accepted only this order, a very special order I want to share with all users.

Customer asked me for a LEGACY strap for PAM (strap series usually made for Tudor Black Bay watches) but adding a sewn GPF-mod buckle. I suggested to submit the buckle to an aging process into the sea, because strap will be for a Homage vintage watch project and it will look better instead of 'brand new' buckle. Here I'll show all the process done from the beginning. This is... HOW2MAKE a LEGACY-GPF strap...

First I show you the beach where I use to enjoy my holidays...

LegacyGPFbuckle01.jpg

Well... I started aging treatment for 3 buckles, one for customer strap (26mm), another for having other strap in stock and for upcoming 'pro' pics (24mm) and last buckle for future strap (24mm).

Buckles were brand new...

LegacyGPFbuckle02.jpg

LegacyGPFbuckle03.jpg

First step was a fresh bath, tying buckles using fishing line to avoid lost of any buckle. After 3 hours of free surfing, next step.

LegacyGPFbuckle04.jpg

Second step was 'gravel and sand hand-brushing'...

LegacyGPFbuckle05.jpg

and stone brushing...

LegacyGPFbuckle06.jpg

Here are the buckles after first day in the beach.

LegacyGPFbuckle07.jpg

After that, I submerge buckles into the sea overnight, tying them to a rock in a hidden corner of the coast...

Meanwhile I started straps, one in 26/26mm for the customer and the other one in 24/24mm. Both 130/80mm. I chose Siena brown for back side and Legacy leather from a spanish tannery.

LegacyGPFstrap01.jpg

Cutting 4 pieces, larger than 130mm and 80mm

LegacyGPFstrap02.jpg

I use to bend backside for best fitting once strap is finished. Coming up next, I cut Legacy leather, larger than backside leather because is necessary to do lug and buckle holes. Is not necessary to cut this leather exactly because I'll do it later.

LegacyGPFstrap03.jpg

Next step is to glue backside and Legacy leather, putting on glue generously...

LegacyGPFstrap04.jpg

Wait a couple of minutes and hitch both pieces firmly. After this step, cut excess leather with scissors.

LegacyGPFstrap05.jpg

and we have preliminary straps...

LegacyGPFstrap06.jpg

At the morning after rescue buckles from the sea and make another hand brushing with gravel, sand and stones, was the moment of a glass of champagne...

Well, not exactly champagne... maybe better a mixture of salty water, sulfhidric acid, copper coins and gravel for these buckles.

LegacyGPFbuckle08.jpg

And wait one day...

LegacyGPFbuckle09.jpg

This was the result of corrosion...

LegacyGPFbuckle10.jpg

Nice, isn't it? :punk:

Meanwhile, watching some old movies in the TV at the same time, I was continuing the straps...

Next step was to add a thin leather piece for lug and buckle holes, to improve durability and best fitting:

LegacyGPFstrap07.jpg

Cutting excess leather in the sides and measuring always 26/26mm and 24/24mm

LegacyGPFstrap08.jpg

For making lug holes, I use a simple toothpick as you can see...

LegacyGPFstrap09.jpg

I engage both sides once glue is dry...

LegacyGPFstrap10.jpg

Here you can see lug holes done in both straps...

LegacyGPFstrap11.jpg

Buckles were submerged again into the sea, so I continued with straps...

Next step was 'edge cut' in large strap part. You can see how I use to do, measuring 130mm in this case and using a cutting tool.

LegacyGPFstrap12.jpg

LegacyGPFstrap13.jpg

LegacyGPFstrap14.jpg

LegacyGPFstrap15.jpg

But the edges need something special for this strap, isn't it?

I applied my 'secret formula'...

LegacyGPFstrap16.jpg

LegacyGPFstrap17.jpg

Do you like it? :thumbup:

Next step was keeper. Customer wanted one big fixed keeper, so I made as silicone PAM straps, one one keeper but not floating, fixed, instead of 2 small keepers (one fixed and another one floating). For this strap, one keeper gives more vintage looking and I prefer because fits very well once is finished.

I cut a small piece of Legacy leather, pasting calf leather in the back side, pasting keeper in the small part of strap.

LegacyGPFstrap18.jpg

LegacyGPFstrap19.jpg

LegacyGPFstrap20.jpg

and we got it!

LegacyGPFstrap21.jpg

Do you remember the buckles?

After long time into the sea, I rescued and applied last brushing treatment for taking away oxide.

LegacyGPFbuckle11.jpg

Buckles finished, more or less 30 years of aging, having a fresh bath in the sea again ready for fitting straps...

LegacyGPFbuckle12.jpg

Next step in the straps was to cut buckle pin hole, 4 mm width...

LegacyGPFstrap22.jpg

And this is how both straps look with sewn aged buckles...

LegacyGPFstrap23.jpg

Next step is stitching hole picking... I start with large strap part from edge to case side.

LegacyGPFstrap24.jpg

LegacyGPFstrap25.jpg

LegacyGPFstrap26.jpg

LegacyGPFstrap27.jpg

And when large strap is pricked, I make small strap part measuring it with large strap part from case side to buckle side...

LegacyGPFstrap28.jpg

I holed buckle side end...

LegacyGPFstrap29.jpg

And now, strap is ready for stitching...

LegacyGPFstrap30.jpg

Customer wanted dark brown stitching, so I made it and stitched the other strap using natural white thread...

LegacyGPFstrap32.jpg

What do you prefer? Brown or natural white...? :thumbup:

Now is time for buckle pin holes in the strap. I made 3,5mm of diameter holes, measuring first hole at 55mm from case end, and the marking 4 holes more using a template for 26mm and another template for 24mm.

LegacyGPFstrap33.jpg

LegacyGPFstrap34.jpg

LegacyGPFstrap35.jpg

And last step... (I use to put a paperboard piece in the back side to avoid undesirable marks on it)

LegacyGPFstrap36.jpg

And here I introduce these 2 beautiful straps...

Legacy-GPF 130/80-26/26mm brown stitching...

LegacyGPFa.jpg

LegacyGPFb.jpg

LegacyGPFc.jpg

LegacyGPFd.jpg

LegacyGPFe.jpg

Legacy-GPF 130/80-24/24mm natural white stitching...

LegacyGPFf.jpg

LegacyGPFg.jpg

LegacyGPFh.jpg

LegacyGPFi.jpg

LegacyGPFj.jpg

Both together...

LegacyGPF01.jpg

LegacyGPF02.jpg

And fitting a PAM 111:

LegacyGPF03.jpg

LegacyGPF04.jpg

LegacyGPF05.jpg

I hope customer like it, and you...

Thanks for looking!

 

 
Edited by ricardmg
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