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Review Of The "ultimate" Planet Ocean 45mm


By-Tor

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Wow, that is a great review, I was so certain after buying the 42mm 4th gen I had bought the last PO. However, I think this will be next on my list. I can't tell from the pics, but the 42mm has a small gap between the watch and the bracelet. Is this present on the 45mm?

Many thanks

There's a small gap even on the genuine when it's on your wrist. It was too big on the 42mm version though. No such gap on the"ultimate" any more. I mentioned this in the review.

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Holding rep and gen side-by-side and I spotted ONE TINY FLAW in addition to the one already known about (ie. the tails on the logo, which in truth is almost impossible to spot unless under a loupe). I am going to keep quiet about it though.

Please do tell... :)

Is it the date font?

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  • 2 weeks later...

@vaccum: Great shots mate!!! The size difference doesn't look THAT big in your pictures. However the difference is much more dramatic when you set the watches like this:

181388-7193.jpg

PS: Are you enjoying your "Ultimate"... isn't it just as good as I said. :)

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Mine arrived yesterday, and I just canned my full review as By-Tor's nails it.

The lack of AR coating on the outer surface of the crystal is one that can be easily argued around as I've heard off-board that the usual watchmaker solution for repairing damage to outer AR coating is to polish it off as it is a pain in the [censored] anyway!!!

A useful bit of reference material for these reviews would be to indicate how the bracelet is linked together for sizing purposes. The 'ultimate' is praisworthy in this respect as it returns to the use of pins-and-sleeves as per the genuine (previous generations used screws for some bizarre reason), making one of these essential...

187796-5457.jpg

Edit: Also worth mentioning that this is the first Omega rep ever to have an internally threaded crown tube as per the genuine. Some people have mistaken this as a stripped outer thread....

Hello,

I just ordered mine from Andrew. I need the Pin remover now. Is a Pin remover from 0.8 mm ok ? Like the one you posted here ?

Thanks

Stephane

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And man aren't those springbars PAINFUL to get back in. :)

You think that's bad? Took me 30-60 mins to get the Doxa rubber strap on my Sub 600T :black_eye:

Now that's an exercise in frustration and anger.

Strap hasn't come off yet, but I want to try it on the orange too... !

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  • 3 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Hello

I was wondenring if there is a Chronometer version of this rep (PO 45mm "Ultimate" black), and if it as accurate as the non-chrono one.

Requesting advice from the pros.

Thanks

P.S.: By the way, excellent review and pics, By-Tor.

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  • 1 month later...
Hello

I was wondenring if there is a Chronometer version of this rep (PO 45mm "Ultimate" black), and if it as accurate as the non-chrono one.

Requesting advice from the pros.

Thanks

P.S.: By the way, excellent review and pics, By-Tor.

Same here....wondering if there is a Crono equivalent of the uPO, and if it has the ETA movement. Any advice would be appreciated.

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There is a chorno version, it isn't as accurate, due to the spacing of the sub dials being too far apart, because it's based on the asian 7750. It is a watch that looks great on the wrist though, but for reliability and accuracy the UPO (non-chrono) wins hands down.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hello gentlemen, this is my first post here so please forgive me if this question has already been answered.

I recently bought a UPO from Andrew. Great service, great communication and quick delivery. This is my first foray into the world of the super replica and I am amazed by the quality of the piece.

My question is this: is there any way of knowing (without taking the back off) if the watch I have been sold is really the ETA UPO and not substituted for the cheaper UPO Lite? I noticed that my pearl was wonky and exhibited the common fault where the top part of the lume material is recessed and the lower half is protruding above the metal rim just like in Andreww's review of the UPO Lite.

Andrew @ Trusty seems like a nice and helpful enough guy but there are doubts in the back of my mind especially as I don't think he waterproofed my watch when I paid for it. (The He valve is supposed to be deadlocked, right? Mine still screws...when I called him on it Andrew said it was sealed on the inside...go figure.)

Thanks to one and all!

Edited by The Mentalist
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My question is this: is there any way of knowing (without taking the back off) if the watch I have been sold is really the ETA UPO and not substituted for the cheaper UPO Lite?

The datefont on the Lite version is different. Andreww wrote a good review of the Lite version, which explains the differences quite accurately. See it HERE.

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The datefont on the Lite version is different. Andreww wrote a good review of the Lite version, which explains the differences quite accurately. See it HERE.

dammit....by the life of me I can't figure out if mine is serif or not! :huh:

for example, the number "14" on the date should like like this on the asian "lite" version: 14

I noticed the number 1 has the little left arm on the top, where as mine is a solid line as in l

what gives?

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Yep, read it again and spotted the date font thing. Mine is thankfully sans serifs which means I have got the Swiss ETA version. Phew!

I may have misread, but sounds like the asian one IS the serif version:

However, the asian version introduces another flaw in the fact that the font is serif and the numbers are more "square" in appearance

299109-3610.jpg

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  • 2 months later...

guys,

Yesterday I stopped by Jared's jewelry store and took a look at a Gen PO 45mm..........I also have seen the Silix version and Andrew's version, and honestly, I don't understand why the Silix is not considered "Ultimate" when in actuality it is closer to the real thing!!

the differences I saw were: the bezel's luminator is not as nice as Andrew's version (which is closer to the Gen), and the date lettering being Serif. But the Omega logo on the Silix was the correct one, and the AR coating on both of them seem the same. Everthing else (movement, construction, etc) seemed pretty much the same.

Unless I'm really missing something, I just don't see a)why Silix is not considered ultimate, and b)why to pay $100 more for the ultimate.

any clarifications/comments would certainly be appreciated!

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  • 5 weeks later...

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