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Best Daytona Rep on the market today?


naturopath

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Really though? How can this be the best with non-functioning chronos? I've seen better.

Because there isn't a good one with functioning chronos. With the 7750 case is too thick and the movement is a timebomb waiting to happen. If you want a semi-accurate and reliable modern Daytona without building a franken, the 21j is the best way to go.

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This will be a continuing issue until someone clones the Rolex Cal.4030 movement, until then, there will not be a good Daytona rep that satisfies everyone. The non-working chrono's are a non-starter for half the market, the kablooey modified 7750 and fat case is a non-starter for the other side of the market.

Quite honestly...whoever can effectively clone the cal.4030 first, and produce a quality Daytona rep will essentially guarantee their retirement $$$$.... that it hasn't been done yet, given the innovations available to the rep producers, tells you how hard it is.

Give it 2-3 years and we may see one? 

Or be on the lookout for a broken 4030 Daytona ... 

Not super expensive to run an ad on craigslist and in your local paper looking for broken Rolex watches. Some people don't know, or don't care. You could get it repaired for a thousand bucks at the most, and if it costs you $3,500 to buy a broken Daytona, all in you're at it for $5k maybe, and well ahead of the game.

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  • 3 weeks later...

"Because there isn't a good one with functioning chronos. With the 7750 case is too thick and the movement is a timebomb waiting to happen. If you want a semi-accurate and reliable modern Daytona without building a franken, the 21j is the best way to go."

I took a 21j 'autona' with running sec @ 6 apart a few years back and froze the center sweep hand plus the 3/9 sub dials and left the sec @ 6 running and it ran Ok for the couple years I wore it every now and then. I used a lubricant called 'Dri Slide' (molybdenum disulfide in a light oil base) on the 'flying' sec @ 6 wheel arbor (axle) and ran fine. Now it is stuck after being parked for about a year and will not run so the light oil base that the MD is mixed with has either dried out or it is too cold (54F where it was stored). I placed the watch dial side down a couple inches above a 100 watt bulb for 10 minutes and it heated up and took off running. Maybe it was just too cold. 'Flying' wheel means there is only one bearing on the wheel arbor with no support on the other end at all. The sec @ 6 wheel arbor runs in a hole drilled into the brass movement plate with no jewel with the driven wheel rubbing on the plate. There is very little friction as this wheel is the last in line and does not drive anything. 

"The new 23j looks sharp, is this also a ticking time bomb like the 21j?"

My case and dial appear to be almost exactly like the white Puretime watch above with the same space between the 3 and 9 markers and reflector (rehaut). Replicas = I always say almost when comparing them so it is probably close to the same watch except mine has a plastic movement spacer. The case is 13.7mm thick and the crystal is claimed to be sapphire but probably MG. This watch is made for a strap and the hoods are made in one piece on a ring that clamps between the bezel and the top of the case like genuine. It is surprising how well they are made...except for the plastic spacer in mine. I wound it up and will see how long it runs.  

update... It ran for over 30 hours and keeping good time so the Dri Slide must be Ok for this type of project. The sec @ 6 wheel with the DS probably stuck from being parked so long plus the cool temperature.   

It is not a 'ticking' time bomb but it is for sure a 'sticking' time bomb.   :pimp:

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