dbane883 Posted June 24, 2016 Report Share Posted June 24, 2016 Hello fellow brethren. Let me start by saying that this project was not overly thought out as I cobbled it together this week using various parts I had lying around the house and office. Several months ago, Tonneywatches out of Singapore popped into the scene offered a variety of vintage Rolex parts, both genuine and rep. I decided to investigate his offering and ordered a 5510 midcase set as well as a claimed refinished 5510 explorer dial. The case needed a lot of work (as expected) to get it right. Here's what it looked like: It's very "boxy" and the bevels were quite poor. It has since been made a bit more correct. The dial was advertised to be a genuine plate and the gilt was negative relief. There are some issues but certainly better than the other "gilt" dials from the likes of Yuki and HR. The lacquer was a bit too glossy and lume looked a bit too fresh. I've managed to soften the sheen a tad and patinized the non-glow lume a few shades. Bezel is chrome plated brass. I managed to removed much of the chrome to reveal the brass and it accepts gen inserts. The retention ring is also gen spec. For the crown, I used a gen 8mm brevet and replaced the crappy tube with an Athaya tube I forgot I had. The crystal from tonney is poor and replaced it with a used gen T-19 service crystal. As for movement, I used a gen cal 1530. Hands are gen 5513/12 hands. Insert is a used mid font service insert. Not sure I will keep this, but for now, I will keep it in the rotation so I put less wear/tear on my 6548. Here is the finished project: 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blindpirat Posted June 24, 2016 Report Share Posted June 24, 2016 Great as always! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newswire Posted June 25, 2016 Report Share Posted June 25, 2016 Would you recommend this mid case over other options? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbane883 Posted June 25, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2016 I'd say Phong cases are still better if he sends you a good specimen. It can be hit and miss with him. But he is also 2-3x more expensive so that needs to factor into the equation. Compared to Yuki, the Tonney big crown case is definitely better but a notch below Mingh Quy. My guess is that tonney sources these cases from Vietnam just like phong and MQ. So for value, tonney cases are very good. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newswire Posted June 25, 2016 Report Share Posted June 25, 2016 So phong and MQ basically shapes the same cases to a better spec ... Interesting ... Thank for your expert opinion ! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nanuq Posted June 25, 2016 Report Share Posted June 25, 2016 Thanks for the write up and the eye candy. Can you show a profile of the case to see how the lug "swoop" looks? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vanillaxavy Posted June 25, 2016 Report Share Posted June 25, 2016 so how much was the case? mind if you share? sent from BOOOOOOOOOM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mendota Explorer Posted June 25, 2016 Report Share Posted June 25, 2016 Yes, this looks fantastic! Beautiful build. I'd really like to build a 5510. Would you recommend this case to those of us who don't want to shell out the Phong prices? So this is 1/3rd the price? Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bart Cordell Posted June 25, 2016 Report Share Posted June 25, 2016 Beautiful as always. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackflash Posted June 25, 2016 Report Share Posted June 25, 2016 Very nice! Great write up too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sogeha Posted June 25, 2016 Report Share Posted June 25, 2016 The usual Dbane impeccable casework. Economy and a Dbane build aren't two things that go together well, but for the rest of us after saving USD800 on the case, we can save about a grand on the movement. Then fit the usual rep hands and an aftermarket crystal. Definitely not Dbane style, but it should be a very nice watch for us mortals for less than the cost of the movement on this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rower Posted June 25, 2016 Report Share Posted June 25, 2016 Beautiful build! After much research I believe that this is the watch that Ian Fleming originally had in mind when he wrote the James Bond books. Your skills and eye for detail are legendary. Thanks for sharing what you do. It makes it so fun for the rest of us! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mir36 Posted June 25, 2016 Report Share Posted June 25, 2016 Thanks for your expert opinion on that eBay seller. I've been eye-ing his dials for awhile. Great to hear the experts think they are not so bad. +1 on showing the profile of the case please. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ogladio Posted June 25, 2016 Report Share Posted June 25, 2016 Thank you for sharing this, have been curious about Tonny's case and 3-6-9 dial. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mendota Explorer Posted June 25, 2016 Report Share Posted June 25, 2016 Another question - can this case also be used for a 6538 build if we aren't using genuine caliber Rolex movements? I know the 5510 used the 15xx and the 6538 used the 1030, but if we are going to be using an ETA could we use that case for both? Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbane883 Posted June 25, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2016 Here's a side profile shot compared to my phong 6538 (on top): Obviously the "swoop" or tear-drop lug tip of the phong is preferred but there is enough material there to carve out the swoops to be much more accurate. The rehaut of the tonney case is very similar to the phong which is what leads me to believe that the same source provides phong, MQ and now tonney with the same raw mid case blank. Then each seller finishes off the details (like the lug tip swoops) which is why they vary from sample to sample. All other dimensions seem to be the same as phong. Yes, an ETA wil fit any of these cases with the right adapter. Given that the bezel is brass alloy-based, the complete tonney case set for $600 is a great value imo. Phong and MQ charge $300 for a bezel alone. A complete big crown phong case will run you anywhere from $1200-1500 depending on how he feels that day. Upon second look today, I actually think the bezel is better than phongs. (Note that the bezel on my 6538 is a gen service bezel and has a different profile to an original 6538 bezel.) Case back stamp on the tonney case is incorrect "1958" but it's a common tell from other Vietnam cases I've seen floating around the market. I could carve out the lug swoops but this was a impulse project and I just wanted a beater to save wear/tear on my other builds. I will likely part it out at some point, but the genesis of this was R&D. Someone had to take one for the team 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sogeha Posted June 25, 2016 Report Share Posted June 25, 2016 Well,a big thank you for taking one for the team. I really appreciate your views on the tonnywatches cases as I'm sure do other members. It would seem that given work a Tonny case could be every bit as good as a Phong for much less outlay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alligoat Posted June 26, 2016 Report Share Posted June 26, 2016 There's nothing wrong with a 1958 stamp on the 5510 or the 5508- that's when they first came out. The 1530 movement came out in 1957. Rolex was producing the 6538 and the 5510 concurrently at that time. It's a beautiful build. But I'd love to see the hands recolored to more closely match the dial. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hologramet Posted June 26, 2016 Report Share Posted June 26, 2016 As always... You don't disappoint. Even if it's a "budget" build. As for tonnywatches and dung_chrono and Ruby. For some reason (maybe the youth with better knowledge in the Internet and english) a lot of new sellers have popped up. Some greedier than others. I think they all offer the exactly same raw materials. And In most cases (drum roll... we have a watch joke) you are sure that you get exactly the specimen seen in the pictures Get to know the sellers, and maybe we will find out more about this mystery. /as always I stand in awe... may the force be with you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbane883 Posted June 26, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2016 There's nothing wrong with a 1958 stamp on the 5510 or the 5508- that's when they first came out. The 1530 movement came out in 1957. Rolex was producing the 6538 and the 5510 concurrently at that time. It's a beautiful build. But I'd love to see the hands recolored to more closely match the dial. The stamp should not be "1958". It should be "58". In this case specifically, it should say "III.58" and NOT "III 1958" Rolex never stamped out the full year as far as I know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
droptopman Posted June 26, 2016 Report Share Posted June 26, 2016 The case whisperer at it again. The man who talks to cases... the force is strong in you. I would love to see you shape the bottom of the lugs to match the excellent bevels you cut. Maybe color match the hands. If you grow tired of her I would be interested in discussing moving the project forward with you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alligoat Posted June 27, 2016 Report Share Posted June 27, 2016 On 6/26/2016 at 1:27 PM, dbane883 said: The stamp should not be "1958". It should be "58". In this case specifically, it should say "III.58" and NOT "III 1958" Rolex never stamped out the full year as far as I know. OK, I see what you mean. Thanks for the clarification. EDIT: I just found a III 1958 on the bay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-ROLEX-SUBMARINER-REF-5508-TROPICAL-DIAL-ca-1958-JAMES-BOND-WATCH-/371544544939?hash=item5681c7d6ab:g:DmAAAOSwL7VWrf0V But does radium still glow after 50+ years? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mendota Explorer Posted June 27, 2016 Report Share Posted June 27, 2016 OK, I see what you mean. Thanks for the clarification. EDIT: I just found a III 1958 on the bay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-ROLEX-SUBMARINER-REF-5508-TROPICAL-DIAL-ca-1958-JAMES-BOND-WATCH-/371544544939?hash=item5681c7d6ab:g:DmAAAOSwL7VWrf0V But does radium still glow after 50+ years? Here's an article in "a blog to watch" about radium and tritium. Technically, since the half life of radium is 1600 years, they said radium watch lume can still glow 25 to 50 years after application as long as the base paint (binder) is still in tact. So it really comes down to how well the lume was applied and how it has held up after all of these years. For that watch to have all the lume markers, hands, and a pearl all glowing like a torch is interesting to say the least. Hmmm. http://www.ablogtowatch.com/what-you-want-to-know-about-watch-luminant/ Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
highoeyazmuhudee Posted June 27, 2016 Report Share Posted June 27, 2016 very nice build overall Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freddy333 Posted June 27, 2016 Report Share Posted June 27, 2016 On 6/26/2016 at 8:55 AM, alligoat said: It's a beautiful build. But I'd love to see the hands recolored to more closely match the dial. Ditto & you might also consider spraying a light coat of matte varnish to the dial to add a bit of subtle texture & tone down the shine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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