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I can't believe I'm saying this


Nanuq

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A 3646 is essentially 4 pieces. Mid case, bezel, case back and threaded movement ring. The bezel screws onto the top of the movement ring, while the case back screws in from the other end. They should both screw in far enough to snugly sandwich the mid case between the bezel and case back.

Yes, the domed plexi is the volcano.

As far as where to start, you need to pick a case first. After that, it is all down hill. Of course, your budget determines what parts you are going to start gathering to build. Pick a watch you like and we can go from there.

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A few times I seen a dial with holes in it, in fact there was one in wristies this week. I believe I've heard it called a depth dial. Would that mean that it is actually a fantasy dial based in the dial in the Panerai depth gauge? I haven't really been able to find out anything, it seems those who know, know and those who don't, don't. Was it ever used in a genuine vintage Panerai? 

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A few times I seen a dial with holes in it, in fact there was one in wristies this week. I believe I've heard it called a depth dial. Would that mean that it is actually a fantasy dial based in the dial in the Panerai depth gauge? I haven't really been able to find out anything, it seems those who know, know and those who don't, don't. Was it ever used in a genuine vintage Panerai? 

Those are pure fantasy builds. In fact, Neckyzips made a case based off of the depth gauge case shape. Again, pure fantasy.
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Man this is a lot of good information. This right here is how we got rolling on our vintage Rolex kick many years ago, and we have thousands of topics detailing every step of every imaginable build.

Another question: if the bezel and back screw into the movement holder to sandwich the midcase, what's to keep me from screwing them in asymmetrically so the holder, and hence the stem, don't line up with the tube?

I saw in a pic on HF, there was a brass square block soldered inside the midcase opposite the tube. Does that orient and center the movement holder?

After getting mine apart and barely getting it back together I weirded myself out because I was on new territory. Guess I need to put on my Big Girl Panties and tear into it.

:Jumpy:

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The brass block basically prevents the ring from spinning in the case. The cutout in the ring is longer than the block, but very close to matching in width. You screw the bezel on to the point where the stem hole in the movement lines up with the tube. You can geek out with measurements and math or use your vision to look through the tube to check.

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This is turning out really great. Let me get Summer over and then I'm up for some Panerai builds. I wish this thread was here two years ago when I started out trying to work out what all those random numbers are and stuff like Pre Vendom. It would have saved me nights and nights of trawling the interweb.

 

The 1928, 2081 I like that, how possible is it to build one please?

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Bigwave, is it possible my movement ring is too tall for the thinness of my midcase? There's a small visible gap beneath the bezel, and my caseback is screwed on nice and tight... yet there's a small gap above it as well. :g:

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9 hours ago, Nanuq said:

Bigwave, is it possible my movement ring is too tall for the thinness of my midcase? There's a small visible gap beneath the bezel, and my caseback is screwed on nice and tight... yet there's a small gap above it as well. :g:

 

That is a possibility. If you have the bezel, threaded ring and case back screwed together without the mid case in between, measure the gap between the bezel and case back lips. It needs to match the thickness of the mid case. If not, you are on track. The threaded ring needs to be reduced in height.

 

Something to keep in mind is that the total height of the movement and dial needs to be flush or shorter than the total height of the ring. If not, you will face a different build problem.

Edited by Bigwaved
forgot to mention one thing
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On 2.11.2016 at 4:16 AM, Nanuq said:

Good Lord man, I hope it's not contagious! emoji12.png

 

I understand. At leat it was not forced on you.I hope.

 

Panerai-in-transporter.jpg

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21 minutes ago, Sogeha said:

Famous movie gaff. That watch had an alarm function, err not.

 

I am not sure if we have met earlier but I'm delighted to make your acquaintance. Irish I see,  maybe some Norwegian blood in you too?

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5 minutes ago, Sogeha said:

No mate Yorkshire (Northern Scum) and definitely Viking blood. Pleased to meet you too.

 

 

Glad to hear this :drinks:

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5 minutes ago, Sogeha said:

Bet you can work out what this is about:-

Yan, tan, tether, mether, pip, azer, sezer, akker, cotter, [censored]

 

I am not a farmer :bangin:.,,,funny way of counting that.....and its way different from Norwegian usage

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14 minutes ago, Sogeha said:

Modern Norwegian yes, it's the traditional Yorkshire way of counting and is basically Viking with 1000 years of cumulative errors. My family and lots and of the old families still count livestock that way.

 

Thats great. I actually have a farm in Norway but live in the city. No livstock there now...but they may return in 10-20 years from now when I can stay there all year long.

 

736729435.jpg

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1 minute ago, Sogeha said:

^^^that is beautiful^^^

 

Thanks. its quite similar to that depicted. will not post actual location online.

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A PAM virus that hit between ice and heavy snow. Congrats Nanuq for your new passion, but with caution. I'll let an embarrassing secret from italy ... issue with Panerai surname... in Italy, there is a porn starlet with that surname :):):) so be careful with the type of virus that you take from...

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Last night I put on my Big Girl Panties (gawd, I just KNOW Miss Understood is going to show up now) and tore into my Rolerai some more.  It's built on a River 3646 case set, thinned and gorgeous.

 

The balance only swings maybe 90 degrees and stops often.  It also runs really fast.  So out came the loupe and I could see how the hairspring protruding from the adjusting arm is hitting the hairspring.  I could also hear it... there was the happy tickticktick going on, with an added clankclankclank.

 

Being exceedingly careful (I destroyed several balances doing this) I turned the adjusting arm a little and watched how the hairspring moved.  Suddenly it swung with much more amplitude and the "clank" got quieter.  Moving the arm too far brought it back again.  So I adjusted it to a sweet spot, and now it's run all day without stopping.  It's still not "right" but it's way better.

 

I need to remove the balance cock and let the little rascal dangle to straighten out the spring, then reinstall it.  But there's a gear above the balance, and the spring barrel is above that gear.  Hmmmmmmmm.  :g:

 

I smell disaster.  This is a Moly 3602.  Is there another way, like giving the balance a big puff of air, to let the hairspring coils fall back into place on their own?  It isn't incabloc jeweled so I'm leery of whacking it into my palm like I do my other watches. 

 

Thoughts?  Opinions? 

 

Oh, and the moral of the story: I held the bezel down tight to the case when I screwed on the back and it took much of the original slack out of the assembly.  :tu:

 

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@BigWaveD I'm ready for my next lesson Sensei.

I have a very handsome WL with a rivet dial and I took it apart (yes I've breached that Rubicon!) to reveal a boring 6497 movement.

This cannot stand!

So I bought a gorgeous highly decorated 1949 Moly 3602 for it. Runs like a champ and it came housed in a pocket watch case with stem and crown.

So I'm thinking I need a Moly ring for the WL case? Or will the 6497 ring fit?

Next, I have a stem... ish. It's in the pocket watch. Now I need what to make that movement live in the WL case? Tall hours wheel and tall tube hands?

This is great!!

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You need a movement ring for the molnija 3602. Rivet dials need a little extra clearance for the protruding rivets. Mount the hour hand after attaching the dial to the movement to check if you have the height needed for clear the rivets. If not, you will need either a taller hw/cp or tall tube hands.

 

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