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Is that really as good as the website says?


icewolf1

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5 hours ago, icewolf1 said:

Guys,

I am looking to buy a submariner rep and found this with miyota 9015   http://www.pf-818.com/0-0-rlss00016-116610-black-ss-sub-jap-m-9015-3135.html

Is that a good 1:1 rep? or at least hard to tell the difference type of a rep? also how about the movement?

Please help :)

Welcome newbie. 

It is not easy for the average man on the street to differentiate a well-made submariner replica from the genuine. 

Remember that in real life, it is a 40mm dial on a moving wrist. 

If you talking about static picture comparisons, yes even if the most well-made rep would have flaws.

But in a real life scenario, I do not think you need to worry about the recently released reps.

 

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1 hour ago, icewolf1 said:

Ok thanks guys yes I guess it's hard to tell when it's on the wrist. Ok what about the movement? Is that miyota 9015 really Japanese and regional miyota?

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
 

There is only one Miyota company producing the movements used in low to mid level gens and in the recent 2 years, reps.

 It is reliable in general, but known to be noisy and in need of oiling/silencing. 

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1) Buy the Noob v7 with SA3135. (aprox 400 USD) //

2) If/when the movement dies exchange it for a genuine 3135 with genuine date disc (add aprox 1800 USD) or a hybrid Yuki3135 with genuine parts (add aprox 1000 USD)

// 3) Get the hands and dial relumed with BGW9 Grade A (add aprox 200 USD)

// 4) Get a good modder to mod the solid end links as they have too much material (the SELs aren't recessed like on genuine, instead they are flush.

5) Exchange the crystal for either a genuine 25-295-CAR-V3 (add aprox 300 USD) or my preference a ProfStef non-cyclops double AR Crystal (add aprox 150 USD)

 

 

 

... Now it is a 1:1 (but still has some tells)

 

 

I would only do 1 + 3 + 5 to start with

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1) Buy the Noob v7 with SA3135. (aprox 400 USD) //
2) If/when the movement dies exchange it for a genuine 3135 with genuine date disc (add aprox 1800 USD) or a hybrid Yuki3135 with genuine parts (add aprox 1000 USD)
// 3) Get the hands and dial relumed with BGW9 Grade A (add aprox 200 USD)
// 4) Get a good modder to mod the solid end links as they have too much material (the SELs aren't recessed like on genuine, instead they are flush.
5) Exchange the crystal for either a genuine 25-295-CAR-V3 (add aprox 300 USD) or my preference a ProfStef non-cyclops double AR Crystal (add aprox 150 USD)
 
 
 
... Now it is a 1:1 (but still has some tells)
 
 
I would only do 1 + 3 + 5 to start with


OK great thanks...will go for that one

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

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