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Franken 16030 Datejust Build: First Steps and Some Questions


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Greetings all!

 

I've started on the road to building a 16030 franken Datejust and I have a few questions for everyone. And yes, I've searched, but haven't found anythign definitive. 

 

Every guide I've found so far uses a GEN mid case and I simply cannot find any that are affordable. 

 

I was planning on using the following: 

 

  • Rep Mid Case
  • Rep Jubilee Bracelet
  • Rep Crown

 

  • Gen Dial
  • Gen Engine Turned Bezel
  • Gen ETA Movement (Undecided?)

 

  • Clark Acrylic Crystal 
  • Clark Tudor Hands

 

  • JMB or STONEP Datewheel Overlay

 

 

I've already purchased the Dial and Bezel but I have some questions before I continue. 

 

I plan on removing gen dial feet and using epoxy to secure new dial feet in ETA position. 

 

1)What type of ETA movement would be EASIEST to use with a gen dial, rep case and custom DWO?

I've heard about issues with spacing between overlay and dial etc. 

 

 

2)Will I need to change cannon pinion, hour wheel etc on the ETA movement no matter what?

I've heard about issues with spacing with hands

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

Also, if anyone knows where to find an AFFORDABLE gen case.....I'm all ears!

 

Thanks so much. 

 

I will continue my build with photos in this thread as a future reference for any would-be builders out there. 

 

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The case should fit the movement, simple as that. So the seller or manufacturer of the case should be able to tell you for which kind of movement it was designed. The critical parameter ist the height of the stem. If it is misaligned by just 0.2mm, you won't be able to fit the movement properly. Of course you could work with shims or open the case on the lathe, but that would be visible at first sight and everybody who has ever seen a gen would see that there is something wrong.

 

Why don't you go for the Yuki 3135 instead of an ETA? And if you go for ETA, why do you want to build a watch and not just buy one? And then alter it to meet your personal taste concerning dial etc.?

Edited by Profherm
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If you get a case from jmb, it will take a 2824-2 eta movement.

Check with him to make sure that it will take a T-135 crystal which is what a 16030 takes. 

You could ask jmb if you need to change cannon pinion, etc, but I'm thinking you don't need to change those.

 

heck, you might be able to get jmb or stonep to build the watch for you and save yourself a few headaches!

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1) As others have said it will depend on your chosen case.

 

2) No matter what? No. Will depend on the case you chose, and also the dial. Some dials have tall minute markers.

 

The more important question is are you intending to build it yourself? If the answer to that question is no, then I would just work with someone who builds them and let them handle the details. Mine was originally built by someone who is no longer around, but mymanmatt corrected an issue I was having and added his open 6/9 datewheel overlay (which is very good BTW).

Edited by tomhorn
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  • 2 weeks later...

I used a gen case with 2824 and movement adapter brass rings off eBay. Worked perfect and the stem is pretty darn close but not perfect alignment. I don't know where you would find gen cases these days. I used to get them off eBay for $100 back 10-15 years ago. You could get an entire stainless date just with water damaged rusted out movement for $350-400. I think they are worth more than that now. Haha. 

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"Every guide I've found so far uses a GEN mid case and I simply cannot find any that are affordable."

You might consider a replica 162xx type case.  If the case is genuine spec an acrylic 135 crystal will fit.

 

 

"I don't know where you would find gen cases these days. I used to get them off eBay for $100 back 10-15 years ago."

 

I remember those days.

There were some guys at NAWCC shows who bought complete steel sapphire DJ and took the movements out and sold the cases or bracelets/hoods for around $150 each, your choice.  They told me they modified the movements to day-date and put them is 18k replica cases/bracelets. 

 

I bought two 'like new' 16200 DJ serial X10xxxx from a Texas watch trader/dealer in 1995 for $1250 each with b/p.  Looking back, I should have bought ten.  Same watch today in good condition will bring $2500+.  Tutone DJ was the rage back then and steel was not as popular as now. 

 

Times change...bought a tutone 16233 on a jubilee for $1000 nine years ago.  Thought I hit a Home Run.  Still have it.  Tutone is Not Hot.  A beat up 5500 AK will go for more. 

One guy offered to trade me a washing machine for it...said he wanted it to wear to chicken fights.    :pimp:

edit:  I'm thinking it over.

Edited by automatico
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I still remember picking up a 16014 case (with the gen WG fluted bezel still on it) for $299 back when gold had gone through the roof and everyone was replacing it with an engine turned bezel and selling them off separately. No one else bid because the seller was located in a pretty sketchy country. Still think I even stole that one, as buying the bezel alone at that time was more than what I bid for the whole case. The 16014 case I already owned (bought without the bezel) became my 1016.

 

Those were the days ... :)

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I used to get the date just cases from a jewellery store in Florida. The only parts missing off the watch were the movement, hands and clasp. They were probably putting the movements into MBW 1680 cases haha. They also seemed kinda sketchy whenever i talked to them. I remember getting one with a white gold bezel but it was really worn. I don't remember what I did with it. I might still have it in my pile of gen parts. 

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