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Case closed. Now reopened...


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The JMB '1016' case that is.

 

Finally got around to putting one together.  Here is what I decided to use (by trial and error):

Swiss eta 2824 plates

Swiss eta 2846 (day/date) balance assembly, escape wheel, pallet fork and all train wheels.

Remove all D/D parts.

Put 2846 balance complete in 2824. 

Use taller Swiss eta 2846 cp and hour wheel.

Standard calendar spacer if needed.

 

I'll take them apart and put one combo movement together and see how it goes and post the results.  It will take a while because I have other things to do.

 

PS:

Somebody post something, it's getting awful quiet around here.   :play_ball:

 

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1 hour ago, highoeyazmuhudee said:

probably to mimic the beat rate of a vintage rolex in a case that only takes movements of 2824 sizes

Makes perfect sense to me, and I have followed this with great interest, all the while watching my Airking’s 1520 second hand chug around the dial and wondering what to do with a spare 5500 case and NOS 2846 movement. 

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I still don't get it. It makes no sense for me to convert a movement running at the wrong frequency to a movement still running on a (another) wrong frequency.

 

The early Rolex 15xx movements like the 1530 run at 18.000Vph, the later ones (eg.1570) at 19.800.

 

Of course the ETA 2824 with its 28.800Vph ticks quite a bit faster. But to convert it with a 2846 running at 21.600Vph only brings it to another wrong frequency. And it would be much easier an cheaper to use a 2840/42 from an ols Swatch, which is a 2824 already running at 21.600 without needing conversion.

By the way, the Felso 4007 running at 18.000Vph would match the beat rate of a Rolex 1530, so for me that would be the only considerable choice.

Edited by Profherm
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The problem with the old Swatch watches is they are cheaply made with some plastic parts.

Going to 21,600 bph is close- close as you can get at 6 bps. Rolex is 5.5 bps- and the etas are reliable movements which you can still get parts for. My old etas are holding up much better than my Rollies with 1500 series movements, cheaper to repair also. Getting Rolex parts for 1500 series movements is tough these days- Rolex doesn't support the vintage movements and if your movement is in a rep, you can't take it to Rolex anyway.

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The Felsa 4000 can be used can be used in an Explorer if the dial is glued directly to the movement.  If using the date movement, i.e. 4004, then the date guts need to be removed.

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[mention=24124]

 

jmb[/mention] & I think were the first to use a felsa 400x movement in a JMB 1016 case. Justin also had to make a custom movement ring for the felsa movement. I really love having the movement in my 1016 explorers. The PR is also very good.

 

Here is what's it looks like

 

44da294c7c4f0696cd1722b75f377eba.jpg&key=23de2c5e9a3d4e58b00d4605d32ade998367e69cb47d5a259e9ee053d959dae8

 

I also used it in a 1018 OP build

 

f25a994d12d50c29e158ee528ceb2dec.png&key=da05382af43a24d379a08a3097e9940cda88947597722b7596a5c1beaecd98e1

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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A few answers:

"Are you doing this because of stem height?"
Yes.  Thought about machining the dial seat a little bit deeper but it may make the case deck too thin so I will try this first.

 

"Why don't you just use a felsa 4007?"
Do not have one and am familiar with eta.  I have put a few Frankenetas together and they usually work Ok.  Most of the time.  Thought about an eta 2450.  May try one later on but they are 10.5" and the 28xx is 11.5" so I would need to whittle out another spacer.

 

"So, you gonna make a "low beat" 2824?  I've never gotten that bored..."
I refuse to be outsmarted by a case.  This time.  The last 20 times do not count.


This is all JMB's fault.  Having to use a movement no one ever heard of...eta 282446.

 

Btw...the combo movement is together and running.

 

 

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I did this and it worked quite well except the movement would not hand wind because the base 2824 I used was not in that great of shape even after a full clean and lube. I rebuilt the keyless works maybe 10 times and replaced all of the parts; isn't watchmaking fun!? I plan to revisit the project again soon. 

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  • 2 weeks later...
2 hours ago, preacher62 said:

What ever happened to the $40 reps that you just put on and wore, saying all the time that they were real.

 

Too many people got 20x loupes for Christmas and started reading too much... :p

 

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I hear ya, some people nit-pick stuff to the point where the hobby's not fun anymore.  And if I've learned anything over the past years is that Rolex is not a paragon of consistency!  To me if it "resembles" the model I'm interested in (without glaring errors) and keep good time I'll wear it!

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That's exactly my point of view.

 

1. There are things you notice on first sight if you have ever seen a gen.

2. Then there are thing you only see in direct comparison or with expert knowledge.

3. There are things every watchmaker notices if he puts the watch on a timegrapher or looks at the movement.

4. There are watches which can even fool a watchmaker.

5. The holy grail are watches that can not distinguished from a gen without checking the records of the manufacturer.

 

My desired level is 2. and 4.. But that makes the difference from 40$ to 4.000$. If you don't care about 4. you can do the job for 400$.

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If it looks near enough on my wrist to not make make me angry when I glance at it and it keeps time to within five minutes or so I don't much care about the rest. Sure I love the silly details nobody else knows about and the clever, can fool the factory builds, but it's just a watch, I have some very nice reps and some truly terrible reps, some aliexpress crap, some AD stuff, I really don't care, if it gives me a better idea of the time than squinting at the sky and makes me smile it stays

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