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How To Adjust Your Rep's Timing & Beat


gioarmani

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May be a bit repetitive and requires a modicum of patience, but it's always worked for me. I currently have six (ETAs 2836-2s & 2671-2s, and Asian 7750s & 7753s) all synched with each other, almost to the exact second.

The way I do mine is as follows:

1) Open the digital clock on your computer.

2) Remove the case-back

3) Stop the second hand on the watch by pulling the crown out to the time-set position, to activate the hacking movement (stop the second hand directly at the twelve o'clock position).

4) Then roll the minute hand forward to where it will be, one minute from now.

5) When the digital second hand on the computer reaches 12 o'clock, push the crown back in so the watch & the computer's clock are now synched to the exact hour, minute & second.

6) Put the watch on a winder for a night & compare your watch to the computer's clock after 24 hours to see how far off they are.

7) Pop the caseback. For example, if the watch is now fast by 10 seconds per 24 hours, simply adjust the screw so that it loses 10 seconds for every 24 hours; alternatively, do the opposite, if it's slow by 10 seconds.

(If adjusting via the screw doesn't regulate it enough, on an ETA movement--like the one pictured below--the farther apart you move arms A & B from each other, the longer the stroke, so the slower the watch will run. However, a little goes a long way with this, so use cautiously)

183673-6507.jpg

Each notch towards "+" represents a 5 second gain per 24 hours. Each notch towards "-" represents a 5 second loss per 24 hours. Adjust accordingly

NOTE: For Asian chrono movements, they're slightly different. See the little regulation arm circled in red?:

183673-6508.jpg

If it's running too fast, you'll want to move it to the right (counter-clockwise, as shown with the red arrow below:

183673-6509.jpg

If it's running too slow, you'll want to move it to the left (clockwise & opposite of the red arrow's direction).

The regulation arm on the Asian 7750s & 7753s (sub-dials at 6, 9, & 12 o'clock, or at 3,6, and 9) are very sensitive--they only need to me moved a fraction of an inch at a time; not as much as the picture shows (it's merely an exaggeration to illustrate a point).

8) Now repeat steps 3-7, to test it's accuracy. This should be perfected after a couple of days.

I technically have no way to measure the movement's beat-rate via electronics or machinery, but at this point don't really need or care about that, as long as the watch is keeping the best time it can.

I've now got six synched automatic watches that are so precise, I can literally watch the second hand roll over the 12 o''clock position at the very second when the time on my cell phone (or computer) changes minutes. They're damn near almost exact as digital or quartz watches now.

Note: Depending on what position you store your automatic watch in, will play a role in determining how many seconds it gains or loses every night--this is why I keep them on a winder, so that they are constantly moving and not at rest (in the same position).

If you lay an automatic watch flat & level (with the crystal facing up), it will usually gain a couple of seconds per night. If you lay the watch on its side (with the crown facing down) it will lose a second or two per night. Contrarily, if it's stored on its side (crown facing up), it will generally lose 2 seconds--or more--per night.

EDIT: Chances are, if you've performed all of this and your movement is still too slow or too fast, it's running dry & will probably need a full service. On the bright side, once done, you won't have to touch it again for another five years.

Hope this is of some help to you. Have fun!

Edited by gioarmani
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  • 11 months later...
Thanks Gio...Great write-up!!!

Absolutely. I know it's almost a year-old but I found this very informative.

BTW, what's up with this Alcha person marking the post as "spam"? I checked his member profile, and he's given only one rating since joining this past June -- to Gioarmani's post above. WTF.

Hopefully, his hand just slipped, moving his mouse from "thanks"...

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks for that!

Is it the same procedure on the 6497-1....i just got my DSN 232 and its fast oh say about 3 hours per day!!!

Other than that tiny little flaw...its very nice....

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Can this be done on a Asian 21J too ? Can't see any adjustment screw upon first inspection ?

Ok it's not a screw you just need to move the arm, alright, let's see how my adjustment works...

Aaah...you figured it out. Yes...just adjust the arm. You only need to move it fractions of mm's...

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ah ok, might have been a bit heavy handed then...we shall see !

Also found the small button you press close to the crown stem to pop out the crown...now need to figure out how to remove the hand without braking them...

In case you're wondering I'm trying to see if I can handle the swap of a dial on an Aquanaut !

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ah ok, might have been a bit heavy handed then...we shall see !

Also found the small button you press close to the crown stem to pop out the crown...now need to figure out how to remove the hand without braking them...

In case you're wondering I'm trying to see if I can handle the swap of a dial on an Aquanaut !

Fun fun!! You'll know in a few hours if you were really heavy handed with the adjustments.

As to the hands...get a proper hand tool, Rodico and a hand setting tool (or modded toothpick...clipped and centre dug out for the cannon pinion)...and protect the dial. I use the Bergeon dial protectors...others use post-it notes...and do it at 12-o-clock (lunch time...not date roll-over time if you have a date movement).

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Thanks, well that seconds hand was tough to get out, hours and minutes ok. Can't put the seconds back so will send it to time4direct who will swap the blue dial to black. I guess I didn't have the proper tools !

The second hand should have a pin in it you have to stick into the cannon pinion. I have to use a loupe to do this...my eyes aren't that good to do it without magnification. I stick on some Rodico to lift up the hand and then flick it down into the column with a toothpick, plastic tweezers, hand set tool bit, etc.

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