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Hello, new to the replica marketplace but have been reading as much as possible. I’ve noticed no one seems to be talking about two things I’d like to know more about: reliability and construction of all the parts of a replica. (Please post links of discussion that exist that I haven’t found yet) 

First, reliability. What should ones expectation be for these replicas? For instance, a Regmariner from Narikaa is in the same price range as an Invicta 9937 ProDiver. Can one assume they will perform similarly over time? At this price range, what is expected to fail after 1 yr, 5 yrs, or even 10 years (if anything)? 

Comparing the next price level up, how will a Noobmariner V7 perform in comparison to, say, a Steinhart Ocean One? 

Asked a different way, when buying a replica, are you buying a lesser watch with better aesthetics/branding than a name brand at that price point? Or are you buying a similar quality? 

Second, can anyone speak to the construction of replicas as a whole? Everyone points out the bezel, band, crystal, and movement but what about: 

- Dial material

- Hand material

- Pearl material

- Marker material

- Luminescent paint type

- Rubber gasket material

- Type of screws holding the band together

- Type of spring bar

- And how are these things attached (Elmer’s glue, solder, etc)

I get it, it’s a replica marketplace - there is no QC. But there is plenty of opportunity for QC by those buying the watches. Add that extra layer of construction information and follow up on how your watch is holding up after some number of years. 

Thanks in advance for your thoughts and insights. 

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Replicas in general if you are buying a reasonable price one (say 350ish and up) should be reliable. On saying that, there are a lot of variables involved.

-how rough are you with your watches?
-what movement doesn't it have?
-what material is it made from say steel vs forged carbon
-your climate? Is it humid or mild. Things get more aged depending on weather conditions
-are you wearing the watch every day?

What I'm trying to say is, your questions are too generalised. One version of a rep might be better than other and that could be from the same factory. For example my AD friend said customers who wear their Patek every day actually tend to return them cos some models are actually not very reliable or accurate-not many people would actually wear a Patek as a beater as they probably have more than one watch anyway.

I think you might be over analysing for rep which I can honestly say is very affordable amount compared to gen.

Steinhart are good watches, but to me they are pretty ugly but reliable. Is not an apple to apple debate. Enjoy reps, do your research and relax, is not an investment or a marriage but more of a hobby.

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

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Thanks for the reply! 

The last time I said, “relax, it’s no big deal” I ended up with two kids and a wife... ;)

But in all seriousness I’m trying to avoid throwing a couple hundred bucks at something that’ll die in 6 months. 

I presently have two watches in rotation: 

- A Junghans Max Bill Mechanical with leather strap for the office and dressing up. 

- A 1940s Wittnauer Military mechanical with nylon bond strap, SS casing, 15j Swiss movement (services once in 10 years), and never properly sealed for knocking around. 

Both serve me well but I’m looking for something to replace the Wittnauer as my rough-house watch. It’ll get knocked around with the kids and most definitely wet - whether that be from the 8 months of rain here or plunging my hand in the bathtub to pop a kid out. 

I like the aesthetic of the Subs. I like the concept of a durable, well-built watch. I somehow really like the idea of getting a replica for 20x less that will serve me as well (or better since I didn’t shell out 20x more). 

Unfortunately the homages always seem to get something wrong with the aesthetics. They don’t ever seem to look quite as nice. 

If Reg gets back to me I’ll probably take the plunge and try one out. 

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In general, the thing most likely to fail is the movement. If you allow for the price of a service when you buy the watch you should be okay. Additionally, if your movement is a cheap 21J then replace it if it breaks or if it’s better quality the have it serviced. The only other thing I worry about are watches with complications such as chronographs. Read up on which ones are likely to go wrong and you can avoid them or adjust your expectations! A native A7750 is better than one with seconds at 6 or 12. 

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