Jump to content
jmb

Black 1016

Recommended Posts

One of our Brothers bought a 1016 case set from me a couple months ago and wanted to do something different so we decided to give it a go with a matte black finish with Duracoat Hot Coat.  It is a bake on firearm finish and if it turns out to be durable might be an option for some folks not wanting to find a DLC shop.

Case back.jpg

Bezel.jpg

Case 1.jpg

case 2.jpg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice. Is the engraving between the lugs still visible after the coat is applied?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hard to make out any detail. Looking forward to seeing something assembled...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I did the parts and sent them to customer.  Probably will never see detailed pics of finished project.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, automatico said:

Hot Coat is Cool.

 

Did you ever make any '1016' cases using 2836 spec cases?

No.  I suppose I could but one of the whole reasons for this was to get a case with more or less correct crown position.  I have some 2836 cases and the only difference I see is the crown position.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Very cool. Duracoat is no joke. Albeit thick. How is the bezel crystal retainer figment with the plexy?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I did not build this out.  From what I was told the builder just sanded the OD of the crystal a little.  I use regular Dura Coat on all of my gun builds but after talking with a manager at LCW he was of the opinion that the Dura Bake was a little more scratch resistant. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

"I have some 2836 cases and the only difference I see is the crown position."

 

That's probably the only difference, the crown being closer to the back.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Good to know. A nice 1016 explorer sterile dial black build would be very practical for a daily wear watch.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

"A nice 1016 explorer sterile dial black build would be very practical for a daily wear watch."

 

I put a watch together a year or so back using a 36mm DJ type case, Raffles 28mm 3-6-9 exp type sterile dial, and Eta 2836.  It turned out good but I took it apart and used the movement in something else. 

 

 

Thought about making another one using a 16610 type case with the crown guards ground off, sapphire crystal, 7mm unsigned crown, with the case flattened and polished where the cg were removed.  I have a couple early type cases with lug holes all the way through that would work.  They have 60 click 'spring wire' bezels and flat 30.5 x 2mm MG crystals that press into a plastic band gasket (a sapphire crystal would cost around $20).  Iirc the dial had goldtone minute tracks and dial feet for DG/NN 21j and Eta 28xx.  Maybe put one of the solid link 'rivet' oyster bracelets on it with an unsigned f/l clasp. 

 

Q...Why cut the cg off?

A...To make it look like something other than a submariner clone.

Could go with an Eta 2836 with 24 hour conversion and GMT bez insert.

...or buy a new Parnis black dial sapphire/ceramic '21 jewel' model for $83 on eBay and swap the dials.   :animal_rooster:   

Item number 111981352595

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This is the only picture I have of the complete watch, customer sent me a wrist shot when it was done.  Very small and little detail but it looks bitchin' to say the least.

IMG_1968.JPG

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, jmb said:

This is the only picture I have of the complete watch, customer sent me a wrist shot when it was done.  Very small and little detail but it looks bitchin' to say the least.

IMG_1968.JPG

Wait a minute, I know that wrist. Didn’t realise it was your work J

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not my build, just the case.  :)

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have sent a message to the owner, we will see if we can get more pictures once he replies

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That’s exactly what I was thinking. Maybe even the explorer 1655 hands to boot. Looks more like a 40mm case. Definitely potential.

E


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here’s another taste. More to follow.

 

Didn’t know there was interest, but happy to share details.

J’s case and paint.

Mkii Explorer dial from a friend.

Hands from I cant remember where.

ETA 2824-2.

Erika’s MN strap.

Jelli-built, because the paint is thick and I was unsure about that bezel ID versus plexi OD. Pretty squeaky, and I’m actually going to replace the crystal as soon as i let J get used to the idea of repainting the bezel when I scratch it on removal. (I promised to be careful, but wasn’t catching much enthusiasm about a re-paint!)

 

17c5071f07adccbd8c047d00797fd27e.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Welcome to our community HWA, much the same spirit as the other place, just naughty watches that can’t be there🤫

I looking forward to more pictures of this beauty 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

N

13 hours ago, hwa said:

but wasn’t catching much enthusiasm about a re-paint!

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

So, you are gonna try to shame me into a repaint? 🤑  If you nick it up I can add it to the pile for next AR-15 lower I paint.  Not that big a deal just have to sweet-talk wife.gov into letting me borrow the oven and it usually "costs" me something...😝

  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey, whatever works!

ddd0469f81a3475fde225d0eac507f5e.jpgfb488b3d98e5b2e1919863b6981f521c.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey! I know that watch!

The crystal actually needed quite a bit of sanding for 2 reasons. 1) the black finish added thickness to the inside diameter of the bezel. 2) I had to be able to press it on with hands only. I was worried about using a press and scratching the finish.

Great build. The 36mm size really works well for the blackout look. It's very understated Iin size, but it has some serious wrist presence.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Update for those interested:

 

I removed the bezel just now in the hopes of replacing the acrylic crystal, which on inspection is cracked.  Jelli rightly understood it wouldn't fit without sanding, but despite the sanding it cracked on install (or, I suppose, in transit or during wear, but it hasn't seen any hard wear, so I'm thinking it couldn't take the pressure of the bezel install.  I had a new crystal on hand, and figured I'd give it a shot without sanding, but going really slowly.  Nope!  Cracked.  

 

Here seems to be the rub:  you can see the ID of the bezel through the crystal edge, so it makes perfect sense that J painted it.  Otherwise, you'd have a blacked-out watch with some silver showing.  But, and here's the point, the Dura Bake is pretty thick.  It's so thick that the usual crystal won't fit, so it would have to be sanded even more than the original one to install without cracking, making the edges really quite thin.  

 

The good news is, the bezel coating didn't chip on removal and I was able to reinstall the original crystal, so I'm back to square one, without any loss other than the spare crystal I had on hand.

 

Anyone have any clever ideas for reducing uniformly the OD of an acrylic crystal?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That looks sharp....Nice work to everyone involved.   

 

 

Do you have a drill press?  using a sanding drum bring the drum flush to the drill press surface and set the drill press to the slowest setting.   gently bring the edge of the crystal to the edge of the drum and rotate it with your hands...I did this once a 1655 build and it worked pretty well .  do one rotation, check it.  another , check....patience is the name of the game.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×