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vietnam dial for ETA?


candide2424

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Hi guys,

 

I searched extensively the fora with no luck. Prior to firing a couple of emails to the vietnamese dealers (Minh, Ruby...), I am wondering whether they offer ETA foot dials more particularly for date subs. Yuki has got some but there is an issue with the DW that is not well located.

Thanks for helping!

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Hi guys,
 
I searched extensively the fora with no luck. Prior to firing a couple of emails to the vietnamese dealers (Minh, Ruby...), I am wondering whether they offer ETA foot dials more particularly for date subs. Yuki has got some but there is an issue with the DW that is not well located.
Thanks for helping!

Most good Vietnam sellers have gen spec dials and cases.

Your best bet is to cut the feet and relocate them to ETA location, and solder or glue them there.

They sell new feet as well if the ones that are cut are no longer good.


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"...I have already cut dial feet and used dial dots in my builds. IMHO this is not satisfactory enough."

 

I too have tried dd with little success.  They are usually Ok for quartz watch projects with light movements, plastic spacers, non screw down crowns etc.  

 

I ended up using oem spec dials with the dial feet removed with the dial cemented to a custom made precision fit brass movement spacer with clear 'Gorilla Glue' last time around.  I have a lathe and can make the spacers but there are many brass and aluminum spacers available so one that will work should not be hard to find.   I doubt plastic spacers would be good for this type of application.

 

I did jam a couple dd between the ID of the spacer and OD of the movement to keep the spacer/dial in the proper position on the movement while mounting the hands...they were fine for that.  After the case clamps are tightened down, the movement/dial combo should stay in place as long as the clamps exert enough force to hold it all together.

 

Here is one of the stories:

 

https://rwg.cc/topic/192105-jmb-1016-project-update/

 

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Personally I clip the feet, file smooth, and then epoxy the dial to the ETA dial spacer/platform after verifying proper positioning of date window and centered.

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Thanks JMB,

This is also what I have been doing. If this method is no big deal for non date sub, for date subs it is different, I found it tricky as the spacer can still rotate. Personaly I used a couple of dial dots on the side spacer and movement to prevent this from happening. This might not be option though :(

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Never tried UV-glue before. Do you use a special product or just an ordinary one?

It is a special glue like what dentists use.

Goes on and hardens up when you shine the UV light to it.

Tight and hard adhesive. Easy to use with little mess, but the glue needs to be in plain site to shine the UV light. Can’t be hidden, else it will not harden up and stick.


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23 hours ago, nycrounders said:


It is a special glue like what dentists use.

Goes on and hardens up when you shine the UV light to it.

Tight and hard adhesive. Easy to use with little mess, but the glue needs to be in plain site to shine the UV light. Can’t be hidden, else it will not harden up and stick.


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good tip, I was a bit relucktant on soldering but if this works there is no danger of damaging the dail

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Yeah I make jewelry and I don't know even know how you could really solder on dial feet onto an already printed/painted dial.  There is a super low temperature solder called "Tix" that we use in jewelry for when we want to use low temperature but even that requires some heat that I would think would burn up the paint/print on a dial.

 

Who as ever soldered feet onto a printed/painted dial?

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The date wheel for the ETA movement is more outside than the Rolex datewheel. That's why we use date wheel overlays on ETA and DG movements to line up the date in the window of a Rolex positioned date window. The replica manufacturers make their dials that fit ETA or that fit DG with the date window in the Rolex position and use an overlay. 

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