Drummania Posted October 31, 2018 Report Share Posted October 31, 2018 I am considering adding a Mary 7836 folded bracelet to my 1016 build. Do all the links come apart, or some are fixed? I want to make sure it can be resized small. Thanks! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nanuq Posted October 31, 2018 Report Share Posted October 31, 2018 It uses all folded links so you can open up a fold and remove the link. I described it in several topics here. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madasboot Posted October 31, 2018 Report Share Posted October 31, 2018 It uses all folded links so you can open up a fold and remove the link. I described it in several topics here. I guess those are the same as Joshua had some years ago. I still have one but the rivets are not very reliable - I have to repair mine and will probably need your advice. Nato straps are more safe... ahah Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nanuq Posted October 31, 2018 Report Share Posted October 31, 2018 Ah we're thinking different things here, the 7836 is folded with no rivets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
automatico Posted October 31, 2018 Report Share Posted October 31, 2018 Nanuq: Sharp watch! I like the low profile. It looks a lot like my MBK '5512'...'me first' Yuki dial, folded Mary 7836 (regular clasp), GS lo dome crystal, ST bez kit/hands/case tube, genuine crown, no hack 1570. Drummania: The 7836 'Mary' bracelets are very good imho. I have one on the MBK '5512' and put a 78360 clasp on it with 7 adjustment holes...78360 was as close as I could get, could not find a 7836 replica clasp. Also put new center links with rounded tops on each end where it connects to the spring bars, it came with 'figure 8' end links. I compared the Mary 7836 links with a link from a genuine bracelet and the metal in a Mary bracelet link is a tiny bit thinner but the fit and finish appears to be very close. You can put a flip lock type clasp on a Mary 7836 but it takes a bit of work where the 6 o'clock end is mated to the clasp where it has the rivet through the flip lock. I used an old style 'eight hole' clasp cap with no dive extension on another project watch but made a mistake by removing one link from the 6 o'clock side, should have left 6 links in it. They come with 6 links at 6 and 7 at 12. Rep-Rivet bracelets: I looked in my repstuff and found 3 replica rivet bracelets. They are all exactly alike and I do not know where they came from or how long I have had them. The links are approximately 3.5mm thick...that does not sound like much but they appear to be thicker when looking at them. I did not compare them to a genuine rivet bracelet. They have 6 links at 6 and 7 at 12 with two links with screw tubes in each end next to the clasp so they can be shortened. The screws are famous for falling out and the fix is to put regular rivet tubes in them with press in rivets after they are fitted to size. Downside...they are hair pullers. Rep-Rep-Rivet bracelets: These have side plates mounted on regular solid link bracelets. They look Ok and are tougher than a regular rivet bracelet. They probably cost quite a bit less too. Downside...they are heavy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nanuq Posted October 31, 2018 Report Share Posted October 31, 2018 ...put new center links with rounded tops on each end where it connects to the spring bars, it came with 'figure 8' end links.That's what I'm wanting, a source for those round top center links. I can take one out of a donor Yuki Rivet band that's being sacrificed for parts, but I'd rather not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomhorn Posted October 31, 2018 Report Share Posted October 31, 2018 Don't know how small you need to go, but I sized my Mary 7836 down to 6.75" with room to spare. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drummania Posted October 31, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2018 32 minutes ago, tomhorn said: Don't know how small you need to go, but I sized my Mary 7836 down to 6.75" with room to spare. I'd like to have 4 links on the 6 o'clock side. Otherwise the clasp is in an uncomfortable location for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
automatico Posted November 1, 2018 Report Share Posted November 1, 2018 "That's what I'm wanting, a source for those round top center links. I can take one out of a donor Yuki Rivet band that's being sacrificed for parts, but I'd rather not." I used links from an unbranded bracelet that I got somewhere. As long as the links have the correct contour, length, and width they will usually work. Sometimes you can find an old bracelet where every center link is the right size to make end links out of. I have an old pair of Channellock pliers with half round grooves cut crossways at the forward ends of the jaws that I use to squeeze flat top links to put a curve in the top side when needed. You need to remove enough metal in the underside (at the split) to allow for the slight reduction in the size of the link caused by bending the top curve. Seems like I have spent half of my life learning useless skills. Ha! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vibes Posted November 1, 2018 Report Share Posted November 1, 2018 I have one that I attempted to fashion a proper bracelet to springbar coupling, but it is a daunting task!!! I need to complete that project one day! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
automatico Posted November 1, 2018 Report Share Posted November 1, 2018 "I have one that I attempted to fashion a proper bracelet to springbar coupling, but it is a daunting task!!!" I spread the link apart that connects to the clasp and put a 'figure 8' connecting link in the bracelet and attached the flip lock lever and clasp to the 'figure 8' link in the bracelet with a rivet tube. Be sure to put a spacer in the bracelet link where the open space is before you press the link back together...the figure 8 connecting piece is shorter than the center link and leaves a space in the center of the link. I got the spacer from a spare bracelet and slightly crimped it to keep it in place. You need a flip lock lever made to be used with a rivet tube, not one made for a spring bar if possible. This rivet tube is the one at the 6 o'clock end of the clasp cap where the 'Z blades' are attached to the FL and bracelet. The most common (spring bar type) replica clasp cap to Z blade attachment at the 6 o'clock end of the clasp fits flush with the outer sides of the clasp cap and the FL lever passes by with no rubbing. Not so with the proper rivet tube etc. A proper hinge using a rivet tube will rub the inside of the FL lever and bind it up unless you use the correct FL lever. Flip lock levers made to pass by rivet tubes at the clasp cap to Z blade connection may have small spacers placed at each end between the inner edge of the FL lever and Z blade like genuine or small tabs made on the Z blade for a spacer. Others may have the inner sides of the FL lever grooved to accommodate the rivet heads...or any combination of the three. I will not get into mounting the dive extension or making the little 'friction dents' in the clasp cap to keep the bracelet under the cap. Finding a clasp cap without a 'fingernail notch' or a FL lever with no scored lines on the top is another task not worth the hassle on a 'vintage replica' imho. Go to any internet search and type in rolex 9315 bracelet to see the details...or the link below. https://www.bing.com/images/search?q=rolex+9315+bracelet&qpvt=rolex+9315+bracelet&FORM=IGRE Nothin' to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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