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preacher62

Asian Made 3135 Movement

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Have there been any upgrades/improvements made to these movements in past few months.  I've had three but only one good one.

 

Also, where might one source one of the movements (with engraved bridges) without buying a watch.  I know they are available on the Bay, but not engraved.  I inquired about one with engraved bridges but it was an upgrade, at $450.00.

 

Thanks! 

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Yukiwatch has them in stock for 195, just have to change the rotor because of a defect in manufacturing 

http://m.yukiwatch.com/catalog/item/9075986/10368174.htm

And I have a gen top plate that has all the engravings and gen rotor if your interested. Only thing i don't have is the bridge that has 3135 on it

I heard it's better to get one that's not engraved because they don't disassemble the movement before hand, and it could damage the movement

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Thanks Matt!  That's what I'm hearing, as well.  I've had three of the early movements and out of the three I have one good one, but it is really good.

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On 5/10/2019 at 12:36 PM, preacher62 said:

Have there been any upgrades/improvements made to these movements in past few months.  I've had three but only one good one.

 

Also, where might one source one of the movements (with engraved bridges) without buying a watch.  I know they are available on the Bay, but not engraved.  I inquired about one with engraved bridges but it was an upgrade, at $450.00.

 

Thanks! 

What do you think these movements are?

Android?

Upgrade....sheesh.

 

https://i.gifer.com/ADtX.gif

https://i.gifer.com/ADtX.mp4

Bloody gifs...if it wasn't for failed gifs ....someone should do a survey on how many days ....um..ok

Back in the room.

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On ‎5‎/‎11‎/‎2019 at 3:57 PM, preacher62 said:

Thanks Matt!  That's what I'm hearing, as well.  I've had three of the early movements and out of the three I have one good one, but it is really good.

 

They need to be serviced for aprox 150-200 USD as soon as you receive them. Dirty. Too much/too little lubricants etc.

That will make them pretty stable.

 

As far as getting an engraved one the best way is actually buying a Watch. Keep the movement and sell the rest as parts. You're guaranteed to find someone who wishes to go full-gen 3135-Franken. The VR3135 seems quite interesting. That's the only "upgrade" to the SH3135/Yuki worth mentioning. However I haven't dissected one myself so take my observations with a grain of salt.

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On 5/13/2019 at 12:44 AM, keeper said:

What do you think these movements are?

Android?

Upgrade....sheesh.

 

https://i.gifer.com/ADtX.gif

https://i.gifer.com/ADtX.mp4

Bloody gifs...if it wasn't for failed gifs ....someone should do a survey on how many days ....um..ok

Back in the room.

You are still here?

 

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8 hours ago, keeper said:

 

Yes. :)

Pleased to see me?

lol, I think you don't contribute anything to this forum but annoyance and bad attitude....

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lol, I think you don't contribute anything to this forum but annoyance and bad attitude....


We just have to be tolerant of others. Truth is, there have been subtle manufacturing changes on these that I have noticed in doing the services.

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What would you guys say the total cost would be to get the most reliable option, replace all of the necessary parts with gen parts, and service it?  Let's say a gen 3135 is around $2,800.  I am not saying that's a fair price, just what I have noticed the other day for a freshly serviced 3135 from a dealer.  Would the clone cost maybe $1,000 after all of that work and parts are replaced?  Maybe more or less?  I am just trying to get a handle on what is a better option for a full on franken build when you are using as many gen parts as humanly possible.

 

 

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What would you guys say the total cost would be to get the most reliable option, replace all of the necessary parts with gen parts, and service it?  Let's say a gen 3135 is around $2,800.  I am not saying that's a fair price, just what I have noticed the other day for a freshly serviced 3135 from a dealer.  Would the clone cost maybe $1,000 after all of that work and parts are replaced?  Maybe more or less?  I am just trying to get a handle on what is a better option for a full on franken build when you are using as many gen parts as humanly possible.
 
 


You can purchase a 3135 for less than $2,800, (if you watch) and you can build a reliable A3135 for less than $1,000 with some gen parts, but it will never be a Rolex 3135. Fewer things in life are finer than a great 1570, 3035 or 3135. They are engineered for a lifetime, with proper care.

There was a guy on Antiques Roadshow this week with a GMT (1675, I think). It was given to him by an uncle who wore it through VietNam (bought in PX for $175). This guy wore it through Afghanistan and 17 years of law enforcement. It was still his daily wearer. It was beat up. I doubt the Asian-made movements will do that.

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2 hours ago, preacher62 said:

 


You can purchase a 3135 for less than $2,800, (if you watch) and you can build a reliable A3135 for less than $1,000 with some gen parts, but it will never be a Rolex 3135. Fewer things in life are finer than a great 1570, 3035 or 3135. They are engineered for a lifetime, with proper care.

There was a guy on Antiques Roadshow this week with a GMT (1675, I think). It was given to him by an uncle who wore it through VietNam (bought in PX for $175). This guy wore it through Afghanistan and 17 years of law enforcement. It was still his daily wearer. It was beat up. I doubt the Asian-made movements will do that.

 

 

Thanks for the insights.  That all makes perfect sense to me, and is why I am definitely going down that genuine 15xx and 3135 path. It's also why I am going to build a 5510 versus a 6538, so I can avoid the 1030 movement.  I might ruffle some feathers if I end up doing what I am considering, but I am thinking of using either a 1560 or 1570.  I know the vibration rates are different for both of those versus the 1530 that was used in the 5510, but those movements are much more readily available.  I only found one 1530 during my last casual search, while I found several 1560 and 1570 movements, all fully serviced.

 

I found a serviced 3035 the other day, and since it was $800 cheaper in price, it got me thinking about a ceramic no date build.  Then I saw a few gen no date ceramics for sale on Chrono 24 for $6Kish.  It made me realize that the only way to do a gen parts ceramic build and actually make it cost effective (when compared to the gen watch) would be to go with a 3135 movement and build a 116610.

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"What would you guys say the total cost would be to get the most reliable option, replace all of the necessary parts with gen parts, and service it?  Let's say a gen 3135 is around $2,800."

 

The last 3135 powered watch I bought was a 16233 with jubilee for $1000 a few years ago...I bought it from a guy needing $$ for a car project.  I have found many good deals in rlx watches but not on the internet or at watch shows, I found them at car shows, flea markets etc, and by putting the word out.  It also seems pawn shops are no longer selling rlx and other higher end watches at lower than market prices.  They go to eBay or somewhere and see what a similar watch is going for and price theirs accordingly. 

All the good deals are not gone yet though.  Not long ago I bought a 90% condition 14000M AK for $1000. 

Where?

The local flea market.  It was a 25 years of service award and the owner needed $$ more than the watch.

 

"I found a serviced 3035 the other day, and since it was $800 cheaper in price, it got me thinking about a ceramic no date build."

 

A 3035 will not work in a case made for a 3135 because the 3035 is thicker and the stem will not line up in the case tube.  You might remove all the date works and calendar spacer to thin a 3035 down enough to work in a 3135 no date case keeping in mind the cal 3130 made for nd cases does not have any calendar works to begin with.  I never tried it. 

The 3135 will probably work in a case made for an Eta 2824 and the 3035 in a case for a 2836.  A 3035 will work in a case made for a rlx 1575 date and a 15xx no date will work in a case made for a rlx 3135, I have tried it.

What is needed is a set of aluminum discs the same size as various Eta 28xx, rlx 15xx, 3035, 3135 etc movements with Eta and rlx dial foot holes and a hole drilled in the side for the stem for planning these projects.  I made one for rlx 1575 date movements.

 

Btw...one of the best rlx time keepers I ever had was a ruff azz 160xx DJ with 3035 that had been apart no telling how many times and had 3 balance staffs in it while I had it...plus the hairspring hung on the balance co*k a time or two, broken top rotor jewel etc.  The 3035 hairsprings are famous for breaking off where they are stuck to the balance. 

They might not be as rugged as they claim...  "Your rolex can take anything your arm can take."

 

I have stuck a lot of watch projects together and the main reason I see for not using a fresh Eta in a project rlx is because the dial feet on a rlx dial will not fit an Eta, and the date wheel hassles.  That's about it.  Since the movement does not show, no one is going to know the watch has an Eta.  Some will say the Eta sets time the wrong way compared to a 3135 but that's not much of an argument imho. 

I get on the stump for Eta because they are reliable movements with a low cost supply of parts.  I am also not much of a fan of most Asian clones, especially when you need to spend $300 on genuine parts and $200 on labor just to get them in more or less reliable running condition.    

 

"There was a guy on Antiques Roadshow this week with a GMT (1675, I think). It was given to him by an uncle who wore it through VietNam (bought in PX for $175)."

 

A friend gave me his rlx 6466 that he wore for two tours in VN in the mid 1960s.  He paid sixty something dollars for it new (PX).

I bought a new rlx 6430 Speedking in 1972 at the local rlx AD and it was $115 out the door on a strap. 

 

https://www.minus4plus6.com/PriceEvolution.php

 

 

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Lolz.

On 5/15/2019 at 7:23 AM, capice said:

lol, I think you don't contribute anything to this forum but annoyance and bad attitude....

 

Reality?

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