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Starting a 1016


Porterjrm
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"I am curious how to create a serial number to reflect a certain year any advice?"

 

Decide exactly which version you want and find out when it was made, there are a few subtle differences over the years.  Next, look at a serial number chart to find what numbers appeared each year.

 

Free advice:

Don't blow a lot of $$ on a project with a so-so case/bracelet and Asian or Eta movement with a replica dial. 

A '1016' project with genuine movement, dial, hands, crown, bracelet etc with other than a genuine 1016 case is not worth much more than the sum of the parts to an informed buyer.  I stuck two together, one with 160xx case and one with 162xx case...parted them both out because they were basically worth more for parts because of rising rlx parts prices.  Of the two genuine cases, the 160xx was probably closer to a 1016.

Ended up with a JMB case, Eta, replica dial and bracelet for a small fraction of either Frankenstein.  The JMB looks/runs the same and the bracelet hoods cover the serial/reference # if it had any.

These projects can eat your lunch.

 

https://www.bobswatches.com/rolex-serial-numbers

 

https://rwg.cc/topic/169685-rolex-1016-built-mod-a-jmb-case-to-gen-specs-lots-of-pics

 

Just saw this...it's a good deal because this is as good as it gets unless you go 100% genuine:

https://rwg.cc/topic/195512-rolex-1016-almost-full-gen/

 

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"I am curious how to create a serial number to reflect a certain year any advice?"
 
Decide exactly which version you want and find out when it was made, there are a few subtle differences over the years.  Next, look at a serial number chart to find what numbers appeared each year.
 
Free advice:
Don't blow a lot of $$ on a project with a so-so case/bracelet and Asian or Eta movement with a replica dial. 
A '1016' project with genuine movement, dial, hands, crown, bracelet etc with other than a genuine 1016 case is not worth much more than the sum of the parts to an informed buyer.  I stuck two together, one with 160xx case and one with 162xx case...parted them both out because they were basically worth more for parts because of rising rlx parts prices.  Of the two genuine cases, the 160xx was probably closer to a 1016.
Ended up with a JMB case, Eta, replica dial and bracelet for a small fraction of either Frankenstein.  The JMB looks/runs the same and the bracelet hoods cover the serial/reference # if it had any.
These projects can eat your lunch.
 
https://www.bobswatches.com/rolex-serial-numbers
 
https://rwg.cc/topic/169685-rolex-1016-built-mod-a-jmb-case-to-gen-specs-lots-of-pics
 
Just saw this...it's a good deal because this is as good as it gets unless you go 100% genuine:
https://rwg.cc/topic/195512-rolex-1016-almost-full-gen/
 

Thank you for the input and the sources. I’m building it with a JMB case and eta. Possibly 2846, I just need to decide on which dial I want to go with. So far I haven’t found any that are lumed how I’d like so I will likely have to get the dial and hands relumed. Are Yuki dials worth the price?


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I don’t know too many sources yet, still new to this part of the watch game. I’ll keep a look out in the sales areas but other than that idk where to find rep dials. Yuki, Ruby’s, Raffles... that’s about where I know to look.


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Here’s the recipe for mine. JMB Case, Yuki dial, Clark hands, ETA 2824 movement.

 

ebc174aef7eb4b536a03276938c23ccf.jpg&key=dea0cc1424a9b6cfca519906079d1edc3b341dd2c54d0fc2b285e06556db87dbda3c315479163e369ba3b72228d17af1.jpg&key=d68a40f237c44f505bf73548efba5e15db14bbde464b30eb96f36d5134e6355fb4e168888b52f55b14c79fb98427d5f1.jpg&key=0980a337c3e3844623d4a4c2256c7f1f7a31cdaf6553f2f23bbb1890324e4a92

Exactly what I’m looking for. Aged lume at all or white? Hard to tell. Also, where’d you get the bracelet?

 

 

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Exactly what I’m looking for. Aged lume at all or white? Hard to tell. Also, where’d you get the bracelet?

 

I just aged the lume with a few drops of coffee applied with a cocktail stick. Bracelet was from Yuki too if I remember rightly, it was a while ago though.

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I just aged the lume with a few drops of coffee applied with a cocktail stick. Bracelet was from Yuki too if I remember rightly, it was a while ago though.

Which clark hands did you use?


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Got the JMB case with R59 serial for 1988. I need to get some better fitting end links. I’ll be using a hollow end link converted 93250 bracelet so I’ll need a correct clasp as well. This will have to do until I can find a 78360 bracelet. 7ae05e073a3f94a2b132407ff77059e4.jpg&key=071ee5613c159f4ba51a5cd24451dc92e7a4b9eafa55a9d74db23cfd71de37f4

4569bd1f2a2610c07cca202c9089e291.jpg

 

 

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2 hours ago, Porterjrm said:

Got the JMB case with R59 serial for 1988. I need to get some better fitting end links. I’ll be using a hollow end link converted 93250 bracelet so I’ll need a correct clasp as well. This will have to do until I can find a 78360 bracelet. 

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I used Mary's 7836 and WSO's 580 endlinks. Good combination for not a lot of $$$.

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I used Mary's 7836 and WSO's 580 endlinks. Good combination for not a lot of $$$.

Thought about that combination but for a late 80’s it should be a solid link not folded. I still may try it. Do you have a photo of yours?


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  • 2 weeks later...

You will need to use a 2824 in my case.  Stem position on a 2846 is wrong.  Automatico made a low-beat 2824, I think, by swapping in a couple of 2846 parts into the 2824...

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You will need to use a 2824 in my case.  Stem position on a 2846 is wrong.  Automatico made a low-beat 2824, I think, by swapping in a couple of 2846 parts into the 2824...

Decided to gut the date components from a tissot 2836 which will give it 2824 stem height and h4 pinion height.


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OK, but still not a low beat.  Have fun with the build.  Won't be checking in much because right now I'm off-grid up in the mountains hiding from COVID-19.  Not sure when I will be back.:crazy:

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You will need to use a 2824 in my case.  Stem position on a 2846 is wrong.  Automatico made a low-beat 2824, I think, by swapping in a couple of 2846 parts into the 2824...

Decided to gut the date components from a tissot 2836 which will give it 2824 stem height and h4 pinion height.


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OK, but still not a low beat.  Have fun with the build.  Won't be checking in much because right now I'm off-grid up in the mountains hiding from COVID-19.  Not sure when I will be back.:crazy:

Right, I just got a good deal on a few movements. I’ll end up low beat eventually. I have a 5512 in the works with a 2522 in it for proper beat.


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Some combo movement info...

https://rwg.cc/topic/192105-jmb-1016-project-update/

 

From the link above...

"Note on the 2824/2846 'combo' movement:

Been wearing it since yesterday afternoon and after 3 or 4 'trial and error' regulations it is about 5 or 7 seconds fast in a day.  For now.

Something else...I did not change out the shock jewels and springs to a matching pair but used the original 'Incabloc' type jewel/shock parts in the 2824 main plate and the 'Etachron' jewel/shock parts on the other side along with the 2846 balance complete, escape wheel, and pallet fork.  I did not want to r/r the balance assembly into the other balance bridge and take the chance of #@&%ing the hairspring. 

The 2846 escapement parts are not finished as carefully as the 2824 parts and the balance wheel/hs are different alloys.  A 2824 usually keeps better time.  'Usually' being the key word."

 

Today...

Since May 2018 I have worn the watch probably 30 or 40 days total and it still keeps time within 5 or 6 seconds a day.  Imho this is outstanding for a movement made up of mostly used parts from here and there.  I have a regular (not combo) 2846 in an old Abay '5514' case and it runs about the same until it gets low on reserve and it slows quite a bit.  I have seen this before on 2846 movements, probably because of the relatively low grade escapements used in them.  The 2846 in the '5514' case is from a 'store return' Jaques Prevard dive style watch from 20+ years ago that was c/o 4 or 5 years ago but not worn very much since then.

 

Here is what the JP donor watch looked like:

IMG_2954.JPG

It was 17 jewel DD with the day works removed. 

The crown/case tube threads were fragile and a lot of them were returned.

Picture from JACK'S TREASURE CHEST OF TIME PIECES

 

BTW there is a 2846 on eBay for $75 + $5 shp from India that looks very good:

eBay item number  303274282216

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