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Rolex MilSub ref.5517 Project: BUILD


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Hi all, 

 

I am new to this forum and until very recently had no idea that there exists a thriving community of replica watch builders! I've done a great deal of reading through past topics on this forum over the last couple of days and find it all fascinating.

 

Whilst my grail watch is a Rolex MilSub ref.5517, I am very aware that there is a slim-to-none chance of me ever owning a gen MilSub and have decided that I'd like to build my own, like many others here. Below, is a list of parts and their manufacturers that some users have provided me with. Any nudges in the right direction, suggestions, knowledge that any of you can provide me with will be greatly appreciated. It is a project that I would like to start soon and ideally finish by the end of the year. Overall, I'd say I have a budget of around £2,500.

 

  • Case Set - Ruby's
  • Dial - Ruby's 
  • Hands - Yuki
  • Crown - I want to use a genuine Rolex crown. Is it a 702 crown that I need? 
  • Movement - I would like to use a genuine Rolex movement. Is 1520 the movement I'd need? 
  • Bezel - Who does the most accurate at the moment?
  • I'd also like the dial to look like aged Tritium, who am I best off going to for this?

 

Again, I am very new to all of this so forgive me if I've said anything stupid. I really appreciate people taking the time to read this and help me.

 

Cheers all!

 

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Well, that's pretty much the info I sent you via pm. I'll post it here, others may find it useful too:

 

If I were to build another 5517, I would buy the complete case set from Ruby. (Request login password via email: infor@rubyswatch.com)

http://www.rubyswatch.com/Products/watch-cases/sub-c5517

3bdbf42b446ee5c676f2e64c4c228528.jpg

 

 

Ruby's bezel insert is currently the best, it's also included in the case set:

http://www.rubyswatch.com/products/k15-|-submariner-|-5517-|-bezel-insret-1878

63dee7aa86083aed557907b44559aa16.jpg

 

 

Although not perfect, dial from Ruby too:

http://www.rubyswatch.com/Products/parts/sub-5517

80880db34397117236161842ac18dd37.jpg

 

 

Hands from Yuki:

https://www.yukiwatch.com/catalog/item/6960394/8865330.htm

https://www.yukiwatch.com/catalog/item/6960394/9842879.htm

https://yukiwatch.ecwid.com/Submariner-5517-hand-set-p35282255

038d2253decc1dddb45bb05ba1013cf3.jpg

 

 

702 crown and tube either gen or from Athaya:

http://parts.athayavintage.com/product/aftermarket-702-crown-and-tube/

6883b428765ca43327355d3729a6198c.jpg

 

 

Movement:

Ruby’s case is for a Gen 1520 movement. Alternatively an ETA2846 with adapter ring from Yuki. Check case dimensions with Ruby first. She may have an adapter too.

https://yukiwatch.ecwid.com/ETA-adaptor-retro-fit-cal-15X0-case-p35063689

687edb403ecd4083ce176b6e15e8d30d.jpg

 

 

Admiralty Grey NATO strap from Phoenix, the original MOD supplier:

https://www.esprit-nato.com/en/phoenix-nato-watch-straps/792-2933-admiralty-grey-phoenix-nato-watch-strap.html#/28-width_lug_buckle-20_mm

f46e8922be40b02f78d1323b48a2d093.jpg

 

 

 

Check out the section for modding services here on RWG:

https://rwg.cc/forum/179-repairmodification-services/

 

Caveat: Some may suggest it, but bon't buy any parts from MQ! He's tricky to deal with at best.

 

That’s abut it. Good luck!

Edited by jackflash
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21 minutes ago, jackflash said:

Well, that's pretty much the info I sent you via pm. I'll post it here, others may find it useful too:

 

If I were to build another 5517, I would buy the complete case set from Ruby. (Request login password via email: infor@rubyswatch.com)

http://www.rubyswatch.com/Products/watch-cases/sub-c5517

 

Ruby's bezel insert is currently the best, it's also included in the case set:

http://www.rubyswatch.com/products/k15-|-submariner-|-5517-|-bezel-insret-1878
 
Dial from Ruby too:
http://www.rubyswatch.com/Products/parts/sub-5517

 
Hands from Yuki:
https://www.yukiwatch.com/catalog/item/6960394/8865330.htm

https://www.yukiwatch.com/catalog/item/6960394/9842879.htm

 
702 crown and tube either gen or from Athaya:
http://parts.athayavintage.com/product/aftermarket-702-crown-and-tube/
 
Movement:
Ruby’s case is for a Gen 1520 movement. Alternatively an ETA2846 with adapter ring from Yuki. Check case dimensions with Ruby first. She may have an adapter too.
https://yukiwatch.ecwid.com/ETA-adaptor-retro-fit-cal-15X0-case-p35063689

 
Grey NATO strap from Phoenix, the original MOD supplier:

https://www.cwcwatch.com/products/phoenix-nato-watch-strap

 

Check out the section for modding services here on RWG:

https://rwg.cc/forum/179-repairmodification-services/

 

Caveat: Some may suggest it, but bon't buy any parts from MQ! He's tricky to deal with at best.

 

That’s abut it. Good luck!

[[Template core/front/global/commentEditLine is throwing an error. This theme may be out of date. Run the support tool in the AdminCP to restore the default theme.]]

 

 

+1 Great Help from Jack

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2 hours ago, jackflash said:

Well, that's pretty much the info I sent you via pm. I'll post it here, others may find it useful too:

 

If I were to build another 5517, I would buy the complete case set from Ruby. (Request login password via email: infor@rubyswatch.com)

http://www.rubyswatch.com/Products/watch-cases/sub-c5517

3bdbf42b446ee5c676f2e64c4c228528.jpg

 

 

Ruby's bezel insert is currently the best, it's also included in the case set:

http://www.rubyswatch.com/products/k15-|-submariner-|-5517-|-bezel-insret-1878

63dee7aa86083aed557907b44559aa16.jpg

 

 

Although not perfect, dial from Ruby too:

http://www.rubyswatch.com/Products/parts/sub-5517

80880db34397117236161842ac18dd37.jpg

 

 

Hands from Yuki:

https://www.yukiwatch.com/catalog/item/6960394/8865330.htm

https://www.yukiwatch.com/catalog/item/6960394/9842879.htm

https://yukiwatch.ecwid.com/Submariner-5517-hand-set-p35282255

038d2253decc1dddb45bb05ba1013cf3.jpg

 

 

702 crown and tube either gen or from Athaya:

http://parts.athayavintage.com/product/aftermarket-702-crown-and-tube/

6883b428765ca43327355d3729a6198c.jpg

 

 

Movement:

Ruby’s case is for a Gen 1520 movement. Alternatively an ETA2846 with adapter ring from Yuki. Check case dimensions with Ruby first. She may have an adapter too.

https://yukiwatch.ecwid.com/ETA-adaptor-retro-fit-cal-15X0-case-p35063689

687edb403ecd4083ce176b6e15e8d30d.jpg

 

 

Admiralty Grey NATO strap from Phoenix, the original MOD supplier:

https://www.esprit-nato.com/en/phoenix-nato-watch-straps/792-2933-admiralty-grey-phoenix-nato-watch-strap.html#/28-width_lug_buckle-20_mm

f46e8922be40b02f78d1323b48a2d093.jpg

 

 

 

Check out the section for modding services here on RWG:

https://rwg.cc/forum/179-repairmodification-services/

 

Caveat: Some may suggest it, but bon't buy any parts from MQ! He's tricky to deal with at best.

 

That’s abut it. Good luck!

[[Template core/front/global/commentEditLine is throwing an error. This theme may be out of date. Run the support tool in the AdminCP to restore the default theme.]]

 

Solid information, gained the hard way and shared freely ❤️

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  • 2 months later...

Hi guys, apologies for hijacking this thread, but since it's not that old I hope that's not an issue. 

 

After getting fed up with the gen world's "no watch for you policy" I am currently contemplating another Milsub build following my gen-powered Phong based one from a few years back. I foolishly gave that one to my brother who now refuses to sell it back to me, so no real options here I guess :D.

 

Like with my last build, I want to build the best one possible. So gen movement and best available dial are a must. If the unspeakable one will sell me another dial, I'll start gathering the remaining parts. I'm pretty much set on everything else already (though open to suggestions of course :)). Will go for Ruby's case set, CWP hands (should have a pair lying around here somewhere), gen crown and tube, gen hacking 1520 from a period correct donor watch, Air King 5500 from the late 70s I suppose. I'll try the TrueDome t19 as a crystal and that's about it. Hopefully I'll have it finished around end of this year, if and that's a big if, I'm able to source the dial.    

 

Here's my question: Ruby's insert looks amazing, really great to see that someone managed to produce an affordable one at last. Case looks good as well, though I think it'll need a little work to make it more accurate. Any suggestions who does exceptional case work atm and has experience with Phong/Ruby cases? Preferably in the EU? Dbane reshaped my Phong case and I was very happy with how it turned out, but judging from the fact his last post here is from early 2019, I fear he's not around any more... I would like to go for a fully restored Bexley look again, so brushed case with visible clean chamfers. Similar to the double reference pictured here. 

 

 

nwm13992463698799_1_t5.jpg

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  • 2 months later...

Here’s the ”best recipe” currently:

Nowadays it much easier to make a good enough-5517. The crown guards are the weakest part, but Helenarous case is quite close. There wasnt a good 5517 insert until about 6 months when I helped Ruby getting it right. The genuine 5517-insert I have helped Ruby get the closest so far, the serifs are not 100%, but se are talking tiny 0,1mm serifs. And that is good. Otherwise 5517-inserts would be impossible to differ from gen.

The build would be something like this:


—HelenaRou case (bezel ass. And crown/tube arent up to standards, but c’est la vie, wont use them anyway). Have Vietnam engrave it correctly underside of the lug + caseback. Rubys is Also very good... but still... the crown guards.

—HelenaRou custom printed dial (they have the correct dial layout) ask them to just pad-print white text and white plots for lume background for ETA-plate.

—-Vietnam bezel assembly incl correct insert

—-Genuine Omega SM300 hands

—-Michael Young Superdome T19

—-Athaya pearl

—-Athaya 7020 tube and 702 crown

—-I recommend a Tissot Powermatic 80 lowbeat-2824-2.

—-Custom lume-job in Vietnam of hands, dial and pearl

——Removal of date complication and conversion to single-hack crown stem

——Custom aging of insert

——Custom reshape of especially crown guards.

——Get a vintage MOD-strap (or modern Phoenix) admirality grey or as I recommend Phenomenato instead.


Skickat från min iPhone med Tapatalk

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11 hours ago, jackflash said:

Ruby’s insert is great. It does tend to turn purple-ish when bleached rather than charcoal-grey. So don’t over do it.

28cbaad98b5ad422cd1a4a9ba9ebc58c.jpg
92875b220af6ee29421d7547ff2aab6e.jpg


my tip is dont bleach at all. use Bergeon ultrafine abrasive block 5444A. Never use sandpaper.
 

Mount the insert in a bezel on a watch. (Ye this will also soften the bezel teeth a little bit, if this is a problem use a separate bezel).

 

The bezel protects the external border (If you can create a recessed fit before starting. and the plexi protects the internal border. Put more pressure on the outer parts. Slowly. Slowly. Slowly.

 

When done, try adding heat with a stormlighter with circular moves. As soon as you start seeing brown tones. Stop. ThIs removes most of the shine, and makes the colors way more natural.


@jackflash I would recommend trying it as I know exactly what you mean with the purple tones.

 

 

 

 

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my tip is dont bleach at all. use Bergeon ultrafine abrasive block 5444A. Never use sandpaper.
 
Mount the insert in a bezel on a watch. (Ye this will also soften the bezel teeth a little bit, if this is a problem use a separate bezel).
 
The bezel protects the external border (If you can create a recessed fit before starting. and the plexi protects the internal border. Put more pressure on the outer parts. Slowly. Slowly. Slowly.
 
When done, try adding heat with a stormlighter with circular moves. As soon as you start seeing brown tones. Stop. ThIs removes most of the shine, and makes the colors way more natural.

[mention=48510]jackflash[/mention] I would recommend trying it as I know exactly what you mean with the purple tones.
 
 
 
 

Great advice! Thanks
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  • 3 months later...

On a tip from [mention=59902]hologramet[/mention], I purchased an insert from [mention=47967]Dlf[/mention]. What can I say, it’s amazing! Here it is now installed on my 5517. Thank you both guys!

91138e95e3b09b516365308478388860.jpg

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On 5/28/2020 at 12:53 AM, jackflash said:

Well, that's pretty much the info I sent you via pm. I'll post it here, others may find it useful too:

 

If I were to build another 5517, I would buy the complete case set from Ruby. (Request login password via email: infor@rubyswatch.com)

http://www.rubyswatch.com/Products/watch-cases/sub-c5517

3bdbf42b446ee5c676f2e64c4c228528.jpg

 

 

Ruby's bezel insert is currently the best, it's also included in the case set:

http://www.rubyswatch.com/products/k15-|-submariner-|-5517-|-bezel-insret-1878

63dee7aa86083aed557907b44559aa16.jpg

 

 

Although not perfect, dial from Ruby too:

http://www.rubyswatch.com/Products/parts/sub-5517

80880db34397117236161842ac18dd37.jpg

 

 

Hands from Yuki:

https://www.yukiwatch.com/catalog/item/6960394/8865330.htm

https://www.yukiwatch.com/catalog/item/6960394/9842879.htm

https://yukiwatch.ecwid.com/Submariner-5517-hand-set-p35282255

038d2253decc1dddb45bb05ba1013cf3.jpg

 

 

702 crown and tube either gen or from Athaya:

http://parts.athayavintage.com/product/aftermarket-702-crown-and-tube/

6883b428765ca43327355d3729a6198c.jpg

 

 

Movement:

Ruby’s case is for a Gen 1520 movement. Alternatively an ETA2846 with adapter ring from Yuki. Check case dimensions with Ruby first. She may have an adapter too.

https://yukiwatch.ecwid.com/ETA-adaptor-retro-fit-cal-15X0-case-p35063689

687edb403ecd4083ce176b6e15e8d30d.jpg

 

 

Admiralty Grey NATO strap from Phoenix, the original MOD supplier:

https://www.esprit-nato.com/en/phoenix-nato-watch-straps/792-2933-admiralty-grey-phoenix-nato-watch-strap.html#/28-width_lug_buckle-20_mm

f46e8922be40b02f78d1323b48a2d093.jpg

 

 

 

Check out the section for modding services here on RWG:

https://rwg.cc/forum/179-repairmodification-services/

 

Caveat: Some may suggest it, but bon't buy any parts from MQ! He's tricky to deal with at best.

 

That’s abut it. Good luck!

If we buy a complete Ruby case, what is the need for an Athaya 702 crown?  What version of the crown comes on Ruby case and what are the advantages disadvantages?  I know the Athaya 702 looks incredible but the clutch springs in crowns are weak.  Plus, if the Ruby crown is 703 or 704, it will be more water proof than the Athaya 702.  I'm about to order a Ruby case so I really would like to please know.  

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If we buy a complete Ruby case, what is the need for an Athaya 702 crown?  What version of the crown comes on Ruby case and what are the advantages disadvantages?  I know the Athaya 702 looks incredible but the clutch springs in crowns are weak.  Plus, if the Ruby crown is 703 or 704, it will be more water proof than the Athaya 702.  I'm about to order a Ruby case so I really would like to please know.  

1) 702 is period correct
2) Rubys crown looks like a fat 703, is marked like a 702. Everything is just wrong. 702 is also Triplock. I highly doubt the seals between crown/tube will limit your WR.
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If we buy a complete Ruby case, what is the need for an Athaya 702 crown?  What version of the crown comes on Ruby case and what are the advantages disadvantages?  I know the Athaya 702 looks incredible but the clutch springs in crowns are weak.  Plus, if the Ruby crown is 703 or 704, it will be more water proof than the Athaya 702.  I'm about to order a Ruby case so I really would like to please know.  

Naturally you could just stick with Ruby’s crown and tube. You’d have to ask her the exact spec. Correct for a 5517 would be a 702. The only budget alternative to a gen is Athaya’s 702. I’ve used them in several builds. Maybe I got lucky, I’ve had no problems with them. For the right 5517-look, 702 is the way to go.
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Thank you Jackflash and Hologramet.  I have a Vietnam midcase that came with no crown so I indeed use an Athaya 702 and have to admit it has not had a water intrusion problem. However, I recently received a genuine sub crown that came with a 1520 movement and what I noticed is the inside gasket was massive and heavy duty looking.  I think the crown is a 704 or maybe a 703.  It just looks so much better and heavier duty looking.  But I understand the period correctness for 5517 you are talking about. I guess I was kind of high jacking the thread to understand the construction of the Ruby case crown but I think it's helpful to know for this build here as well the information about either crown. It sounds like the crown that comes with a Vietnam case is clunky and not good anyways so it sounds like a good idea to always use Athaya or a gen on it for any build.  So thank you, this has been helpful and I think helpful for this cool 5517 project here.

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Athaya has both a tube for gen 702 and a tube+crown that is aftermarket.

You most likely have a 703-crown and the 703-0 tube. It has a similar look to the 702... But is thicker/wider/protrudes more.

In my experience.. it’s most often the plexi/crystal retainer fitment that seems to be the problem when WR is needed.

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On 2/16/2021 at 11:50 AM, jackflash said:

On a tip from [mention=59902]hologramet[/mention], I purchased an insert from [mention=47967]Dlf[/mention]. What can I say, it’s amazing! Here it is now installed on my 5517. Thank you both guys!

91138e95e3b09b516365308478388860.jpg


 

 

superb !

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