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MBW/MBK roll call...


automatico

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Added 11-03-2020:

Revere:  "Wow, an ingod dial. Haven't heard that name in a minute"  (from a recent '5513' sales thread).

https://rwg.cc/topic/196303-fs-donerix-5513/

 

 

I added an address to a thread on Ingod44 dials so if anyone wants to add IG44 dials to this nostalgia fest, feel free.  Since just about all of my replicas are older models with the majority of them being vintage styles, they are just about all I know much about. 

Many members have been around as long or longer than I have so maybe there is still quite a bit of oldie replica stuff left.

My newest replica is a 'noobmariner' F520117 so you can see I am stuck in the past.  

Wrong...have one 214270 'new explorer' somewhere, saw it last spring.

 

Original post:

Just for fun, list the vintage rolex MBW/MBK submariner type watches you own and a short note on modifications. 

Q...Why?

A...Since they are no longer being made and are 'World Famous Classic Replicas' it would be nice to see how many are still floating around RWG.

I know the Vnam etc. cases have eclipsed them in accuracy to genuine...numbers/lettering/minor details etc. but I doubt the Vnam etc. examples will surpass MBW/MBK in production numbers (no way to tell) and probably never sell at MBW/MBK prices back when they were available.

 

Mine...

Two 1680 from Reggie 6 or 7 years ago.  One unworn, same as new.  One also unworn with the case modified to accept a 26.5mm 1680 dial...the 26.0mm dial and 2836 have been removed.  The complete watch has swisseta 2836, the other one had a 2836 etaclone.

One 5512 from an RWG member a few years ago.  Now has a recently c/o nos ETA 2879 with the MBK dial, ST case tube/bezel kit, GS crystal, 'Mary' foldoyster, genuine crown.  Had 1570/Yuki dial for a while.  Forgot if the original movement was swiss or clone.

One 5513 unworn, same as new from a member a few years back...one of the last batch of MBK from 'Rolexfinder'.  Movement unknown, never opened it.

One 5513 from a member a few years back.  Put a 1520 in it for a while.  Now an empty case with ST case tube/bezel kit, GS crystal.  Iirc it came with an etaclone 2836. 

 

Bonus 1:

List vintage DW 'submariner' cases/watches if anyone still has one.  They were Hot for a year or two and made pretty good 1680 projects.

I have a few new, empty DW cases from 10+ years back plus one with a 1570 and original Mk I Lemrich 1680 dial.  I needed a container to store the movement/dial in and the DW case worked fine, everything fits.

I sanded one case down to thin the lugs and was going to make a vintage project watch of some sort but never finished it.  Never decided to cut the CG off or not either.  I could make an oversized vintage 'explorer' or something with a 26.5 to 27mm dial and ETA 28xx etc.

 

Added 11-3-20:

Bonus 2...Ingod44 dials...anyone still have one in a watch or stored away?  They were pretty good back when available.  Last one I bought was in July 2013 and it was from an RWG member.  Do not know when IG44 went out of business but the dial from July 2013 is a 'comex 5513' and the last one I bought directly from IG44 is a regular 5513 dial.  I wrote the date down for the '5513 comex' but not the 5513, I got it a year or two earlier iirc.

I had not looked at them for a few years and was surprised at how good they are.

 

cornerstone:

"I haven't worn my most expensive watch in ages."

 

Me neither. 

The MBK '5512' is what I would wear if I wanted the 'high $$' look. 

 

IG44 thread from 2012, there is a very good pic from Akira of an IG44 '5513' dial like mine in the thread.

 

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My fully modded MBW 1665.
I can't remember but must be 13-15 years old.
I reshaped the case to gen Specs years ago.
drilled the lugs.
Gen Parts as follow
Tropic 39
Fat font Insert
Tube and Crown
580 Endlinks
Springbars
93150 Bracelet Parts
MBW Dial relumed and aged
Eta 2846
Flat top three Date

Here it is and runs well over all the years default_wink.gifffa9fe02058e2d85a4324fc9fac0c228.jpg5426894b651d8648621cdfad0ee8aca4.jpg1261388b905026e96eba5a28bde751c1.jpg852784a41a6662bd72fef4dd680e1e48.jpg68e3f7e2298869c7bb93575a853449ac.jpg

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iKihIr.jpg

 

This baby came from Big Red Joe- BRJ back around 2006

It has a gen insert, and a gen crystal which got pretty scratched at one point.

I got excited about Nanuq's mods and tried to open mine up recently to start some mods but it was a bear. Don't know if it got cross threaded or not. Will try to get it fixed.

I've got a nicer red sub dial, 702 crown and tube and a 2846-2 with a PolexPete overlay. Just have to figure out how to enlarge the dial seat or shave a little off the dial.

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Very nice!  You can definitely see the MBW heritage there.  You say the back is cross threaded?  Or maybe instead it was BRJ's "special purpose caseback thread locking compound, applied with new cloth" that has it stuck on there?    :bangin:

 

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I know Joe trimmed the cgs, installed a better rep crown which he said he got from a place like Dallas Jewelry and Watch and evened up the color between the dial and hands- or so he said. I drilled the lugholes 6-8 yrs ago and installed a gen 93150 with 580 ends which I bought for like $300 back around 2008. Unfortunately, I think I boogered up the caseback threads- possibly when I drilled the lugholes. That 2836-2 is still running like a champ 14 years later.

 

I remember how ByTor used to pan the MBW red sub dial- said it was all WRONG!

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If you have a sacrificial caseback lying around try cutting a vertical groove across its male threads to make it into a tap.  Then use that to chase the threads in the case and clean them up a smidge.  You might even be able to heat it with a torch and quench it a couple times to harden it into a tool.

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"I got excited about Nanuq's mods and tried to open mine up recently to start some mods but it was a bear. Don't know if it got cross threaded or not. Will try to get it fixed."

 

If the back is hard to get started, it can be a hassle to fix unless you can see where the threads are damaged...case or case back, and try to clean up the bad threads somehow.  Not an easy task. 

If the back has seized and you can get it off, you have a better shot at repairing it with polishing paste.

 

If the back starts Ok and tightens up after a half turn or so, you can sometimes slick the threads up with Simichrome, Wenol etc. polishing paste.  Gob some on the threads and run the caseback in and out over and over while checking to see if it goes on any easier and deeper down in the case.  I use a 'sticky ball' for this and the 'official' type case back tool is not used because they tend to slip and besides, you sometimes need to press down pretty hard to make the case back turn and that can make matters worse.

 

I have also used fine grit automotive valve grinding compound on rough threads to smooth them out but as soon as a little bit of progress is made, it is a good idea to go to polishing paste of some sort because most VGC has diamond dust in it and can cut pretty fast.

This also works on sticky rotating bezels, just be sure to clean it all off or it will keep grinding from now on.

 

Thread file:

Image result for thread files

 

 

 

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Great ideas, Auto.  Along those lines, Flitz metal polishing paste is a Godsend too.  I like to smear it all around and into my bands, getting it well down into all the links, then wipe off the paste from the outside and wear it.  It really speeds up the process of ageing a band so it gets more and more limber and silky.  I've done that with a new Yuki 7206 and within a week had it as limp and soft as if it was 40 years old.  Of course then starts the process of softening the visible surfaces to match.

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I love my MBW 1665.
It's long time working progress project.

Eta slow beat movement no fast date setting.
Case reshaped, lugholized, gen bezel insert.
2mm springbars.
Reworked and lumed dial from Domi.
Gen crown and clasp.
Gen tropic mid dome crystal .
One superdome is ready on workbench.
Better dial is coming soon.


Inviato dal mio iPhone utilizzando Tapatalk

a5ccc6c59ba6cc482277ea5343a1a446.jpg


Inviato dal mio iPhone utilizzando Tapatalk

fe32a172a8b166081c591da6e4c6894d.jpg


Inviato dal mio iPhone utilizzando Tapatalk

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  • 2 weeks later...
Here are my three. The first one is stock and the second was purchased modified the 1665 is also stock.
 
772BZG6.jpgK84B2dj.jpg
8PnAUlv.jpg
Can I see the Dial of the second one modified?
Does it look like this?
It looks quite familar to.me.
Has the watch drilled Lugholes, 703 Tube and Crown installed? default_wink.giff27770d03d1696b1ef86b9deb7955a19.jpgc854c6940177bf120ae32b94e5e7fb40.jpg

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3 hours ago, Tribal said:

emoji106.png Has it drilled Lugs, gen 703 Tube and Crown, Gen Tropic 19 and Inlay installed, CG's reworked?
Looks like an old build from me?!?

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I had no Idea that was your build! I love it. The case work is the best I've ever seen.

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On 10/31/2020 at 1:24 AM, automatico said:

"I got excited about Nanuq's mods and tried to open mine up recently to start some mods but it was a bear. Don't know if it got cross threaded or not. Will try to get it fixed."

 

If the back is hard to get started, it can be a hassle to fix unless you can see where the threads are damaged...case or case back, and try to clean up the bad threads somehow.  Not an easy task. 

If the back has seized and you can get it off, you have a better shot at repairing it with polishing paste.

 

If the back starts Ok and tightens up after a half turn or so, you can sometimes slick the threads up with Simichrome, Wenol etc. polishing paste.  Gob some on the threads and run the caseback in and out over and over while checking to see if it goes on any easier and deeper down in the case.  I use a 'sticky ball' for this and the 'official' type case back tool is not used because they tend to slip and besides, you sometimes need to press down pretty hard to make the case back turn and that can make matters worse.

 

 

I have also used fine grit automotive valve grinding compound on rough threads to smooth them out but as soon as a little bit of progress is made, it is a good idea to go to polishing paste of some sort because most VGC has diamond dust in it and can cut pretty fast.

This also works on sticky rotating bezels, just be sure to clean it all off or it will keep grinding from now on.

 

Thread file:

Image result for thread files

 

 

 


 

This is a topic that gives me nightmares!  I recall something about this some 10 years ago on this very forum!  
 

This is made worse if you have a solid gold case where the threads seem rough on the first couple of turns (when you start closing the back) and then start to squeak and vibrate as you keep turning!  However, as soon as you are about compress the gasket it seems to feel normal and smoother!  Very strange indeed!  Heard that this is normal with gold cases, but am not so sure, I know nothing about threads!

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  • 1 year later...

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