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At $ 9.500 retail for a gen,


alterego
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It is a nice watch.

No offense but that is a LOT of $$ for a steel watch with $100 gold bezel, a watch that is not in high demand...imho.

I peg a used one in 85/90% condition at $2500, maybe $3000.  That is all I would pay...but I'll probably never find one at that price.

Then again, you never know.  After all, I bought a lady tutone 69173 sapphire DJ for $500 last summer.  It needed a rotor axle and the owner would not pay the AD/RWC Robber Baron Repair Price to have it fixed. 

A new rotor fixed it, now I have $600 in it.  Not bad.

 

In my experience...

I have purchased quite a few brand new AD rlx watches in my time and had a bad feeling about every one (except the Daytonas I flipped) because of the amount of $$ I paid for what I got.  Looking back...the only rlx watches I felt good about were the bargains I snagged.  Bargains like the new 14010/14010M AKs I bought for $1000 each, 12 or 15 of them, same as new from people who got them for 25 year service awards and would rather have the money.  Bought the last one a few years ago and wore it for a while, still have it, with silver dial iirc.  The others were resold still same as new.

Correction...I checked, still have two of them, silver dials.

 

Bought a 90%+ condition 14000M with dark blue dial a couple years ago for $1000 at the local flea market from a guy needing $$ so bargains are still out there.  They are $4k now on eBay (!!). 

I put the amount of $$ I am willing to spend in a pocket and shop around for bargains.  No bargains, no loss.

Ca$h talks, especially now with many people needing money and not needing fancy watches.

 

I liked the new 39mm 'explorers' but not at $7000 or $8000 so I bought a like new replica with a defective 2836 etaclone, took it out, threw it away (where it really belongs), and put a c/o nos swisseta 2836 in it.  Now I have a new 'explorer' that runs like a champ. 

I bet a replica like the DJ above could be done the same way and no one would know the diff...this being a replica forum.   :ph34r:

It might scratch the itch for a while.

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I very much agree with your shopping strategies.  As you say it pays to scratch the itch for a while and wait for the right time to buy.  That's the way I bought the 1601 I own . I´m going to keep looking and if it takes too  long, I may do what you did with the replica Explorer, and have the feel  of the 3 extra mm on the wrist, without spending a fortune.

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Rolex prices are ridiculous these days! Check out this 16014 from Japan which is currently at $3,383.00. 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rolex-Watch-16014-Date-Just-WG-Bezel-x-SS-operates-normally-Mens-1408358/293821532954?epid=2313233066&hash=item446920cb1a:g:5CcAAOSwQ5tfqK2y

Of course it might need a service which could easily run another $500.

Years ago I built a franken- got a $200 16014 case from HK and a gen dial for $100 and put a swiss 2836-2 in and a few other parts- hands and crown, spacer ring and bracelet and have around $500 in it. It still runs great and the eta is much better than the Rolex 3035 IMO.

[URL=https://imageshack.com/i/plfKDnbfj][IMG]https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/921/fKDnbf.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

These days I'd get a nice rep for $300-400 and then look for a 2836/2824 swiss and do a swap out. Riyi002 and rafflesdials.com have parts and you could also look at going that way

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"It still runs great and the eta is much better than the Rolex 3035 IMO."

 

I agree. 

I have owned quite a few watches with the 3035 and some gave trouble...

Date hanging half way in the window.

Hairspring getting tangled up on the balance 'cack'.

Top rotor jewel cracking.

Stem release detent button becoming non operative.  Not hard to fix but aggravating.

Laser welded hairspring coming loose from the collet requiring a new balance complete $$. 

Common symptom:  "My watch stopped and will not run at all."

Sold my last 3035 watch a couple years ago.  AMF

 

I will say something good about them...

They usually keep very good time.

 

I like the 'old reliable' rlx 15XX.  Many of them are getting long in the tooth but they are like many items made in the 1960s/1970s...you can usually patch them up.

Otoh, I have changed quite a few ETA 28xx reversers, rotor bearings, setting parts etc.  But parts are relatively cheap.  For now.

 

Imho an MBW/MBK 'vintage' submoron-er with a swiss ETA beats genuine for price, ruggedness, and reliability...if you like the vintage type.  Modern style projects are easier imho.

Disclaimer:

The statement above is valid only because this submoron says so.   

 

 

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