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Building a gen like 1680 with genuine Parts?


nick1972

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Hi guys,
 
I'm back from a loooooong time ago, why? I don't know, Came across some genuine Parts i had muffled away in my bedroom when i was cleaning up my room.
 
So it begins.....again.
 
I hope you can assist me to build it back better :-)
 
It seems i have some Nice Parts left to build a gen like 1680 Submariner.
 
Genuine 1970 case with matching numbers to complete a red sub.
Gen 7836 bracelet.
 
It Will be my daily beater!
 
Dial and hands are easy to get. The movement is the problem.
Which ETA movement Will fit this case?
I also need a bezel and retaining ring that Will fit a genuine tropic 19.




Thanks in advance,
Nic
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Verstuurd vanaf mijn M2011K2G met Tapatalk
 
 







IMG_20220529_003449.jpgIMG_20220529_003625.jpg

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I cannot tell you which movement will fit your particular case. If you know the source (seller) of the case, check with them. Many, but not all, ETAs will fit many of the better rep cases. But the only other way to find out (other than asking the seller) is to try installing a movement. It has been a few too many years since I built the last ETA-powered Sub, but I seem to recall that the ETA 2846 was the most appropriate overall. I believe that was the movement I used for my Phase 1 6542.

 

Hopefully, someone with more current experience can chime in with more relevant input.

Good luck.

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My first try would be with a 2824-2. Many moons ago I built a 1016 Explorer in a DJ 1601 case and the 2824-2 fit beautifully.

If that doesn't work, then I'd try a 2836-2. A 2846-2 would be about the same as the 2836, but they're hard to find these days.

A Miyota 8215, dg2813 and the 2836 are all similar in fit and stem location. The 8215 and the 2813 have the slower beat which is closer to the Rolex 1570.

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My first try would be with a 2824-2. Many moons ago I built a 1016 Explorer in a DJ 1601 case and the 2824-2 fit beautifully.
If that doesn't work, then I'd try a 2836-2. A 2846-2 would be about the same as the 2836, but they're hard to find these days.
A Miyota 8215, dg2813 and the 2836 are all similar in fit and stem location. The 8215 and the 2813 have the slower beat which is closer to the Rolex 1570.
Thanks alligoat,

Did you need a spacer for the movement or was it a Nice fit?
If i do need a spacer, where do i look?

Thank you Guys!

Verstuurd vanaf mijn M2011K2G met Tapatalk

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Rules of thumb...

An ETA 2824 will usually fit into a genuine rolex case made for a 3135 or a four digit case made for a 1520/30/60/70 no date movement.

An ETA 2836/46 will usually fit into a genuine rolex four digit case made for a 1570/75 date movement.

Rolex 15xx, 30xx, and 31xx movements are larger in diameter than ETA 28xx so a spacer is usually needed.

No guarantees.

 

Free advice...

Do not waste a genuine 1680 case on a 'Frankenstein replica' project if it involves modifying the case at all.  Save up for a genuine 15xx date movement and dial, even a ratty dial will do.

Example...

I have a genuine rolex 1570/75 date movement with an original 'Mk 1' Lemrich 1680 dial, but no case.  Lemrich dials are very hard to find now and are going for $4000+.  The movements are relatively easy to find and the cases are very hard to find so I am a looong way from a 1680.

That's why I have an MBK '5512' with an ETA to wear now and then if I get the 'submariner itch'.  Meanwhile the rlx 1570/75 and Lemrich dial are stored in a DW '1680' case to protect them.

J3/Amc

 

DW/Lemrich/1575...fifth post from the top:

Rolex Wristies thread - Page 139 - The Rolex Area - RWG

The MBK '5512' is post 19 on the same page.

 

Here is an example of a 1680 with a 'Mk 1' Lemrich dial:

SOLD - Rolex Submariner ref 1680 mk1 from 1977 | Omega Forums

 

 

Edited by Jimmythree
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On 6/5/2022 at 8:19 PM, Jimmythree said:

Rules of thumb...

An ETA 2824 will usually fit into a genuine rolex case made for a 3135 or a four digit case made for a 1520/30/60/70 no date movement.

An ETA 2836/46 will usually fit into a genuine rolex four digit case made for a 1570/75 date movement.

Rolex 15xx, 30xx, and 31xx movements are larger in diameter than ETA 28xx so a spacer is usually needed.

No guarantees.

 

Free advice...

Do not waste a genuine 1680 case on a 'Frankenstein replica' project if it involves modifying the case at all.  Save up for a genuine 15xx date movement and dial, even a ratty dial will do.

Example...

I have a genuine rolex 1570/75 date movement with an original 'Mk 1' Lemrich 1680 dial, but no case.  Lemrich dials are very hard to find now and are going for $4000+.  The movements are relatively easy to find and the cases are very hard to find so I am a looong way from a 1680.

That's why I have an MBK '5512' with an ETA to wear now and then if I get the 'submariner itch'.  Meanwhile the rlx 1570/75 and Lemrich dial are stored in a DW '1680' case to protect them.

J3/Amc

 

DW/Lemrich/1575...fifth post from the top:

Rolex Wristies thread - Page 139 - The Rolex Area - RWG

The MBK '5512' is post 19 on the same page.

 

Here is an example of a 1680 with a 'Mk 1' Lemrich dial:

SOLD - Rolex Submariner ref 1680 mk1 from 1977 | Omega Forums

 

 

Thank you jimmy for the info.

 

It was not my intention to waste or modifyng my case. Long time ago i was selling vintage rolex parts worldwide.

Now i have some parts left and i want to build a simple watch for myself.

.

For this watch case, i need a meters first mk2 or 3 red submariner dial and a good 1570 movement which is impossible to get cheap.

 

A cheap dial and good eta movement is all i need to wear this beauty.

 

 

 

 

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"For this watch case, i need a meters first mk2 or 3 red submariner dial and a good 1570 movement which is impossible to get cheap."

 

After you get it finished and running with an ETA, be on the lookout for a rolex 1500 etc. watch with a 1575.  Look for a rough case and dial with a good movement.  The last rolex 1500 I bought was $700 on 12-14-21 and the case was pretty good, the dial had been refinished, but the movement was fine.  It came from a jewelry store and a friend of the store owner got it for me.  I gave him $100 on the deal so the watch was really $600 from the store.  Since I do not know the store owner, he made the deal.

 

Some of the best deals I have landed in watches came from pawn shops, jewelry stores, watch traders, car shows (!), and watch shows.  Problem is the internet has made buying watches at a fair price like going back in time to the Bonnie and Clyde days wearing a suit made out of $100 bills.  Good watch deals are hard to find now without getting robbed because everyone with a watch to sell is a Shake and Bake internet watch expert.

Team Shake n' Bake (@TUShake_N_Bake) | Twitter

An old time watch trader told me:

"Do not wear a rolex when you are looking to buy a rolex."

"Take a watch or two to trade but keep them out of sight at first."

"Play dumb, but not too dumb."  

J3/Amc

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

The lowbeat ETA 2846 and hightbeat ETA 2836-2 can fit gen-spec 1570 movement cavities. Additionally, I recommend using the Helenarou movement ring with those movements. You might have to sand the inner and outer diameter of the  Helenarou movement ring to make it fit well.

https://www.helenarou.com/eta-adapter-for-genuine-or-clone-rolex-5512-5515512551355141680.html

I have installed ETA 2846 into many Ruby 1680 cases before. None of them have been a problem,

Edited by pompompurin
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  • 3 months later...

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