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How To Safely Remove The Cyclops From A Crystal


chubbchubb

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Let me start by saying that this technique is not my discovery but based on a quote by Bill (TJGladeraider) in another post here in this section. But since “seeing is believing”, I took pictures of my attempt with this technique and would like to share them with you.

Sometimes you have the need to reposition or replace the cyclops on a crystal. Reasons could be bad magnification of the cyclops or incorrect position of the cyclops over the date window. The fastest and non-destructive way to separate the crystal and the cyclops is with heat:

Before we start, remember, this only works with a crystal made from real or syntetic saphire or mineral glass. Don't try this on a vintage plexi crystal.... (and don't dry your cat in the microwave....)

Tools we will need ..... include a lighter, a razor blade and pliers

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Hold the crystal with the pliers and move the flame over the cyclops. Don't hold it in position, move left and right. This will take no more than 25-40 seconds.

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The cyclops will simply fall off as the heat destroys the glue - make sure you are working over a soft, visible surface (piece of white paper on a magazine will do) so that it does not get lost.

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Now, all that's left to do is to move the blade carefully and in a pretty flat angle over the crystal, removing remains of glue and soot and to do the same with the flat side of the cyclops.

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Now you are ready to install the crystal with a crystal press and to reglue the old or fit a new cyclops with UV cement. Pretty easy.... (thanks, Bill)

PS: I do not know how this technique affects AR coating.

Chubbchubb

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  • 4 weeks later...
nice post... I've also used a soldering iron... leaves no flame residue.

Hi stilty,

Did you actually brought in contact the soldering iron tip with the cyclops (or crystal itself) ?

Or did you just moved the soldering iron very close to the cyclops (close enough to heat it) ?

(stupid question maybe but to my experience the soldering iron does not deliver its heat much further than it's own tip...)

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Acetone helps in removing the remains of glue.

The soldering iron needs to stay in contact with the cyclops.

A hair gun does not provide heat enough for the need.

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  • 1 month later...

Perhaps not a "Hair gun" but I am 100% sure that a good ole' canadian tire heat gun (one used for shrinking heat shrink) would do the trick just fine.

Ubi mentioned this technique in the Rolex area and I just might try it.

My problem will be realigning the cyclops... I would not want have to remove and replace the cyclops 2 dozen times just to get it spot on.

Where would one purchase UV Glue?

Kindest regards,

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Since the cyclops on my old beater was showing some wear (as well as the rest of the watch), I tried out this technique on it. I then added a vintage riveted band and bleached the bezel to give it a vintage look. I get compliments daily. Everybody loves vintage I guess.

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Perhaps not a "Hair gun" but I am 100% sure that a good ole' canadian tire heat gun (one used for shrinking heat shrink) would do the trick just fine.

Ubi mentioned this technique in the Rolex area and I just might try it.

What can I say? Good luck!

My problem will be realigning the cyclops... I would not want have to remove and replace the cyclops 2 dozen times just to get it spot on.
Just realign it while the glue is still soft.

Marking the center (or the contour) of the cyclops on the opposite side of the crystal with a magic marker before removing it will help a little -- but the perfect alignment has to be made at sight.

Moving the cyclops to realign it usually leaves small bits of glue around it that need to be removed. I am still experimenting about the best way to remove them (whether before or after curing the glue with UV light)*. Ideally, one should cure only the glue that is under the cyclops leaving the outer one soft in order to better remove it. But I wonder how this can be done. Maybe with an UV laser like those of dentists. But they are expensive, and there is a very good chance that light reflection, refraction and diffusion by the sapphire or glass will make it unuseful.

Where would one purchase UV Glue?
Ebay, ofrei, cousinsuk, or even large hardware stores.

*Edit:

Verified right now. The best way is to remove the glue residuals after curing.

Somehow the UV glue hardens only where it is not exposed to air -- i.e. between the crystal and the cyclops. Glue residuals around the cyclops remain soft and they can get easily removed with acetone.

On the contrary, removing residuals with acetone before curing exposes to the danger that acetone seeps between the crystal and the cyclops.

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On the contrary, removing residuals with acetone before curing exposes to the danger that acetone seeps between the crystal and the cyclops.

Speaking of something seeping between the cyclops and crystal--I've been removing muller crystals for a couple years by dabbing some liquid paint stripper where the case and crystal meet to remove the uv glue, with no damage to crystal and metal. Takes 10-30 min to seep in. Has anyone tried just dabbing some paint stripper around the edge of a cyclops to see what happens? Don't know if paint stripper would remove AR, though...

If it works it would mean no heat and no blades.

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