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Complete OMEGA Seamaster "Bond" Modding/Adjustment Guide


By-Tor

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Omega Seamaster "Bond" is arguably one of the best and most convincing replica watches ever made. So it's no surprise it has become one of the most popular replica models among the community.

Despite being so good even this replica comes with flaws which are unacceptable for some. We get all the same questions about this rep almost every week which basically bore me to death. So I tried to collect all useful information about the Mighty SMP into one post. This guide helps to give newbies some hints how to mod, maintain and adjust the watch... and make it even better.

1. MISALIGNED BEZEL

The first and foremost flaw is the bezel insert. For some unknown and strange reason the replica factories puts most SMP's (not just this model) out with misaligned bezel. Perhaps they do this on purpose? The next picture demonstrates the problem.

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Fixing the bezel alignment isn't difficult, you can do it yourself. Sotirisp posted excellent and informational guide to the old RWG. Since it haven't been reposted here I took a liberty to copy his excellent pictures and information into this article:

2. BEZEL REMOVAL

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Which i did afterwards...the result is below:

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The insert is glued (or taped) into the bezel. When you remove the bezel you can push the insert off from backwards. Then just reglue it into new correct position. In theory you don't have to remove the whole bezel in order to align the insert again, but it's virtually impossible to force any sharp object between the insert and bezel hole - and then pull the insert off without seriously damaging and scratching it.

3. BRACELET

People constantly complain that the SMP "Bond" bracelet is one of the toughest watch bands to resize. I don't think it's difficult at all, as soon as you figure out how the bracelet is constructed.

Because of this "complex" and unusual resizing method the new replica SMP models probably come with screws instead of pins (which is inaccurate). The old replica version uses the same pin-and-sleeve bearing arrangement as the genuine. Yes, even the genuine parts fit.

Here's my explanation how to resize the "Bond" bracelet:

1. There are two "stopper tubes". You have to put these tubes into the two the link pinholes "narrow" side down. When installed correctly they stay put. Their purpose is to increase friction and "tighten" the pins and thus prevent them from becoming loose, so obviously you want to place them the correct way. When the 2 stopper tubes are in the place you just tap the pins normally in. It's not more complex than that.

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4. POLISHING

My SMP is my "tool watch". It was heavily used through the whole last year and the bracelet was full of dings, dangs and scratches. So I polished it throughly with abrasive stainless steel polishing paste. I used so much force that I ended up with full mirror finish.

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The problem is that this kind of finish is inaccurate. Genuine SMP has only the small middle link "stripes" polished. They didn't "shine out" from the bracelet anymore. So what to do?

I ran across THIS TimeZone article a while back (interesting):

So I decided to try. I didn't have Scotch Brite Pad but I was glad to find out that my girlfriend had bought this:

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It's a typical kitchen pad which is designed to clean up ingrained dirt. Its surface is rough and abrasive enough to be a perfect tool to brush stainless steel. I tried it previously on my Rolex Oyster bands and got excellent results. It also works to brush off the surface scratches from the clasp.

I used the same method as in the TimeZone article (taped the polished stripes of the bracelet accordingly). Brushed finish came back, the watch is scratch free and looks like brand new again.

And here's the finished SMP bracelet:

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5. PEARL

SMP pearl is another obvious flaw. The rep pearl doesn't look like the real thing and it might bother some. Veloci has made an EXCELLENT tutorial how to construct a genuine looking bezel pearl by yourself. My hats off to him, I don't have skills to duplicate that, but if you're adventurous enough why not give it a go? Veloci's tutorial can be reviewed HERE.

SUMMARY:

I think we have covered almost everything that's essential about the SMP in this article. Thanks again to Sotirisp (who's unfortunately MIA while writing this).

People keep saying that the "new batch" SMP is inferior compared to the old one, but the only main difference (that I'm aware of) is the bracelet construction which wouldn't bother me, personally. It's still one of the nicest and most accurate replicas.

These adjustments are by no means *necessary*, and the SMP rep is impressive even without them. This stuff is only the "extra" icing on the cake. Enjoy your great rep, whether you want to attempt these mods or not.

Thanks for looking.

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Thanks guys. This might be the last review I constructed together (for a while). I hope people can use it as a reference in the future.

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Great job.

I just want to add, for the bezel alignment, I found it much easier to glue the bezel insert AFTER putting back the bezel in place.

After trying for over an hour with the insert in place, I tried that way and got it in 5 minutes.

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Thank you again guys.

But number 1 in informational reviews? No way, the Zigmeister is number #1. I'm just an amateur... and I basically just collect other people's info and knowledge together.

@vric: That's a great tip, never even thought about that. However I managed to do realign my bezel in a few minutes using the "old" way. Guess I got lucky. :blink:

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Thank you again guys.

But number 1 in informational reviews? No way, the Zigmeister is number #1. I'm just an amateur... and I basically just collect other people's info and knowledge together.

@vric: That's a great tip, never even thought about that. However I managed to do realign my bezel in a few minutes using the "old" way. Guess I got lucky. :blink:

yep, i forgot about The Zigmeister...but don't be modest...even if you only collect other people's knowlege and put it down...you always do a nice work...compliments again...

and if you don't like the n_1...let me put you in TOP 5...is that ok? :lol:

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yep, i forgot about ziggy...but don't be modest...even if you only collect other people's knowlege and put it down...you always do a nice work...compliments again...

and if you don't like the n_1...let me put you in TOP 5...is that ok? :lol:

That's ok. :3a:

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Thanks, this is a really helpful post (but will probably cost me $$...).

I've stared at the pics a lot and can't seem to see the differences between, say, Joshua's newest blue SMP and the famous closed factory SMP?

Are the any obvious flaws I'm missing on Josh's newest?

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@vric: That's a great tip, never even thought about that. However I managed to do realign my bezel in a few minutes using the "old" way. Guess I got lucky. :blink:

Maybe I wasn't lucky then :D

You can add this tip as an alternate way for those that lack skill :whistling:

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Maybe I wasn't lucky then :D

You can add this tip as an alternate way for those that lack skill :whistling:

I think you just did. :lol:

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Wonderful and so well done post, I love it...

Great job - no - excellent job, I love the pics, and the way you have laid out pictures and text, and added some nice genuine pics as well (or does yours have the lazer feature shown in the bottom picture...).

You set a high standard to follow, thanks for doing this up for us, I know how much work goes into these posts, it's a big job.

Now my 007 looks like crap after a year of wear and no polishing...

RG

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Great job - no - excellent job, I love the pics, and the way you have laid out pictures and text, and added some nice genuine pics as well (or does yours have the lazer feature shown in the bottom picture...).

Thanks Zig.

Oh yes, I have the laser alright. Paid a few bucks extra for that. King's carzy sale.

Here it is in action :lol:

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People keep saying that the "new batch" SMP is inferior compared to the old one, but the only main difference (that I'm aware of) is the bracelet construction...

Sadly, this isn't quite the case. Latest batches of these watches also have an incorrect pearl design (which looks to all intents and purposes like surplus from the Rolex Submariner reps). The 'new' pearl is oversized and therefor precludes doing Veloci's conversion as the hole in the bezel insert will be too large to accomodate the modified pearl.

Secondly, the dial printing has deteriorated - the '300m/1000ft" print is now oversized, and the "Chronometer" print incorrectly uses the font for the black faced models.

Finally, the clasp (probably one of the most authentic features of the older generation replica) now has laser etched rather than machine engraved markings.

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Nice review and write up, as always BT! Great stuff!

Now, I did happen to notice one modification that you forgot in your how-to's.... And that is retrofitting the laser!

:lol:

Thanks to you, I'm now looking for a nice SMP rep to acompany my vintage 300... Preferrably one of the old factory ones!

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Great post By-Tor, and you needn't make me co-author as it's your work :)

Edit: P.S. you 've got a private message at old RWG :)

First: Great to see you here. And no way man, you deserve to be the co-author. That guide has been very useful for many SMP owners. Thanks again for letting me use your pics and info.

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Nice review and write up, as always BT! Great stuff!

Now, I did happen to notice one modification that you forgot in your how-to's.... And that is retrofitting the laser!

:lol:

Thanks to you, I'm now looking for a nice SMP rep to acompany my vintage 300... Preferrably one of the old factory ones!

I see you've been getting the "Omega bug" as well. ;) So many members have this rep and I'm sure it's not impossible to source one from the "old batch". Maybe even some dealers still have it?

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