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Complete OMEGA Seamaster "Bond" Modding/Adjustment Guide


By-Tor

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Sadly, this isn't quite the case. Latest batches of these watches also have an incorrect pearl design (which looks to all intents and purposes like surplus from the Rolex Submariner reps). The 'new' pearl is oversized and therefor precludes doing Veloci's conversion as the hole in the bezel insert will be too large to accomodate the modified pearl.

Secondly, the dial printing has deteriorated - the '300m/1000ft" print is now oversized, and the "Chronometer" print incorrectly uses the font for the black faced models.

Finally, the clasp (probably one of the most authentic features of the older generation replica) now has laser etched rather than machine engraved markings.

Ok, didn't know this, thanks for clearing it up. I've seen some pictures of the new model. I knew there was something different but couldn't put my finger on it. Nevertheless I still believe you have to have the genuine or the old rep version side-by-side with the new to spot those differencies.

I wonder if all new rep models are the same... and if all the dealers have replaced their stock with them? Lots of people have asked me this question but haven't been able to answer that. Precious Time was able to source "old factory" black SMP for Bricktop so perhaps the new models are just coming from a different factory? :huh:

Further proof that some of the best reps become "collectors items". We have seen on many occasions that new replica model doesn't necessarily mean improved watch.

Nevertheless...the bezel adjustment and polishing info is still valid with the new version as well.

Edited by By-Tor
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We have seen on many occasions that new replica model doesn't necessarily mean improved watch.

This is unfortunately true :( too bad that the people running the factories et al are not as interested in improvements as we are

Thanks for this great description by-tor and i hope someone will pin this :thumbsupsmileyanim:

Regards

Gunnar :)

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Thanks for this great description by-tor and i hope someone will pin this :thumbsupsmileyanim:

Regards

Gunnar :)

Thor already did. ;)

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A fantastic post and step by step photos, Bytor! :thumbsupsmileyanim::thumbsupsmileyanim:

It's so dartn good that if I had the SMP, I would rush home and start work on it ASAP. :D

Thanks for taking the time and the obvious effort involved.

Cheers,

Jet

Thanks Jet! :victory:

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You must have seriously strong fingers and nails...

I have been trying to get the bezel off for 10 minutes now using my fingers, a plastic rular, and some other plastic things with a sharp edge, but no luck so far...

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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

Well, I love the "how-to" By-tor!

But as I always I messed something up. I popped the bezel of my SMP GMT and found that the spring does not have the hook-down at one end like the one in this tutorial, and my bezel has a groove where the spring is placed inside.. So a hook could not enter any hole if it had been there, you can't really see much of the the spring when it's in place. The teeth on the bezel are facing DOWN as opposed to IN like the one in the pics.

There's a hole in the casing like the one in By-Tor's 11 o'clock, but mine is a larger hole at around 8.

I get the bezel back on, but no click and no stop from turning clockwise.

I can't see how the spring can stay in place when there's no hook on it.

Anybody tried to align a bezel like this and run into similar problems?

I'd love some advice.

EDIT: Problem solved with the help of fellow members and a flashlight.

Edited by Everythingape
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  • 1 month later...

131454-19154.jpg

Just tried this, could not get the bezel off with my thumb nail (or any other nail for that matter!) so I decided to get some tool out! Big mistake... I tried wedging one of my precision screw drivers in between bezel and case but it slid off and cut me rather badly in between my thumb and forefinger... Nothing major but I guess that I may have a version which has a tigthter bezel. The wife almost had a panic attack! Not trying that again...

:black_eye:

Oh well, I've been happy with my SMP for 10 months as it is, there's no reason to inflict more damage on myself....

:D

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@dcrooz: Someone posted another way to do it: Heat the bezel with a hairdryer until the glue softens... and just turn it to the correct position.

It's worth the shot. :)

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  • 4 weeks later...

The clasp spring on my watch is getting a little weak. I want to replace the clasp with a gen. Anyone know where to get a gen clasp that fits?

(I've seen a few on Ofrei's site but don't know which one would fit)

Cheers

p.s. I also want a gen clasp for my Speedmaster (exact same watch as Bytor has) - anyone know of what gen will fit?

Edited by Bravo
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177512-8083.jpg

177512-8084.jpg

The insert is glued (or taped) into the bezel. When you remove the bezel you can push the insert off from backwards. Then just reglue it into new correct position. In theory you don't have to remove the whole bezel in order to align the insert again, but it's virtually impossible to force any sharp object between the insert and bezel hole - and then pull the insert off without seriously damaging and scratching it.

I know this may sound stupid, but why does one have to realign the spring? Doesn't the bezel just rotate around that spring after it's reinstalled? I've tried a bunch of different placements, but it seems to me that all one has to do is remove the bezel, remove and re-glue the dial into the correct position, put the spring anywhere, then reinstall the bezel back onto the watch.

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I know this may sound stupid, but why does one have to realign the spring? Doesn't the bezel just rotate around that spring after it's reinstalled? I've tried a bunch of different placements, but it seems to me that all one has to do is remove the bezel, remove and re-glue the dial into the correct position, put the spring anywhere, then reinstall the bezel back onto the watch.

anyone know? I would think once the dial is aligned with the "high spots" correctly, just put the dial back on anywhere and rotate it back to the 12 o'clock position.

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  • 1 month later...

Bytor, you must be a friggin monster if you were able to pull the bezel off with just your fingers. It took me all of 5 seconds to realize that I wasn't going to be able to do that. So then I got a plastic knife and wedged it up under the edge of the bezel. I only succeeded in breaking it into smaller and smaller pieces. So then I got a screwdriver and a piece of cardboard (the thin stuff from a box of Captain Crunch). I folded the cardboard over the screwdriver and tried to pop the bezel off that way, but it STILL didn't work. Am I just a wimp (don't answer that), or is there some secret that you didn't mention in the instructions? Does the bezel have to be aligned a certain way or something?

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Does the bezel have to be aligned a certain way or something?

Yes. The bezel should sit the "sharp edges" pointing to 12,3, 6 and 9. You have to remove the insert and reglue it to correct position. This was mentioned in the review. :)

208869-17118.jpg

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