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Tudor Oyster Prince Submariner 7016/0


freddy333

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here are direct links, if they are too big, let me know!

IMG_0501_resize.jpg

IMG_0502_resize.jpg

Thanks for the pics. The caseback on the right is what I see on all the 7016/0 & 7928 gens in my archives.

As much as there is alot of musical chairs going on with movements in some of the Tudor Subs, I have not seen the movement in your 7928 used in any of them. This makes me think these movements, while gen, are pulls from other watches. The corrosion in some of these cases makes me think that although they are probably aftermarket, they were made some time ago.

Could you take a full frontal pic of both watches side-by-side? I would like to compare the dials.

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Thanks, Ray. That is exactly what I wanted to see.

The dial on the left is like mine, the dial on the right is different than either Chris's or the dial posted on girard's website. So there are at least 3-4 different dials in this lot.

Most of the Tudor 'rose' Subs have only 'SWISS' at the bottom, so I am mostly convinced that all of these dials are aftermarket. However, ignoring that, they still look pretty good.

I have a feeling the movement in your 7928 got in there by accident. It was probably pulled from the wrong watch, but since the rotor said 'Tudor', in it went. None of the Tudors in my archive have that movement.

So, the game's afoot. cool.gif

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Hi,

in my opinion all parts - except the movement are made in Vietnam -

Phong sells the same watch - i wish we could get a vintage Rolex of the same quality ;)

change the crown + tube and insert and you done.

the biggest flaw is the dial : SWISS T<25 is wrong -

that's why i removed it on mine. also it looks to new ;)

the movement may be genuine - at least my watchmaker thinks so.

cheers,

Frank

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in my opinion all parts - except the movement are made in Vietnam -

Phong sells the same watch - i wish we could get a vintage Rolex of the same quality ;)

Still quite a compliment since Phong is selling his 2836-2-powered version for close to $1,000. ;)

the biggest flaw is the dial : SWISS T<25 is wrong -

that's why i removed it on mine. also it looks to new ;)

I assume you mean you removed the dial (if you know how to remove the SWISS T<25 & replace it with a centered 'T SWISS T', I would love to know what you did).

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Hi,

in my opinion all parts - except the movement are made in Vietnam -

Phong sells the same watch - i wish we could get a vintage Rolex of the same quality

change the crown + tube and insert and you done.

the biggest flaw is the dial : SWISS T<25 is wrong -

that's why i removed it on mine. also it looks to new

the movement may be genuine - at least my watchmaker thinks so.

cheers,

Frank

Agree, last visit to Saigon I saw a couple of Tudor that were very close to the real thing, but the price was higher than U$250.

Great buy,

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Still quite a compliment since Phong is selling his 2836-2-powered version for close to $1,000. ;)

I assume you mean you removed the dial (if you know how to remove the SWISS T<25 & replace it with a centered 'T SWISS T', I would love to know what you did).

you have 4 options imho :

leave it like it is - even 99,99 % of the gen collectors think its real ;)

get a gen dial - not so cheap :)

get a good aftermarked one - Michael Young sells them for 150$

or - paint it over - and age the dial with clear varnish or similar - that gives a nice vintage effect.

cheers,

Frank

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What a beautiful watch!

it looks like the rep dials are easy to spot in the rose's petals and the swiss < T25, as it should be T swiss T.

still, it's an old watch, it isn't illogical to think that may have been that way, very passable.

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Here you go Freddy, off of my gen 7016....

back2.jpg

Thanks Pete. Yours looks like most of the gens in my archives. Like most aftermarkets, the fonts are slightly sharper & shallower on my caseback. The individual shapes of each letter are also ever so slightly different, which is a hallmark of an aftermarket part. But, otherwise, it looks pretty close to yours & the other gens in my archive. Alot of the gen casebacks have been worn or polished, leaving the lettering less legible. So I may try sanding the outside of the caseback over the weekend to see if I can widen & dull out the edges of the fonts. If they were 'worn' & less articulate, it might fly.

back1.jpg

Other than my caseback having a date (I have seen similar date engravings on a number of gen casebacks), the inside of mine looks pretty close to yours. But is the gasket & gasket channel wider than mine? It looks like it is 3 times as wide, or is that just dirt or corrosion?

tudor70160051.jpg

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you have 4 options imho :

leave it like it is - even 99,99 % of the gen collectors think its real ;)

get a gen dial - not so cheap :)

get a good aftermarked one - Michael Young sells them for 150$

or - paint it over - and age the dial with clear varnish or similar - that gives a nice vintage effect.

Frank, how did you re-paint the word 'SWISS' in the center after you blacked-out the existing text? Can you post a macro pic of that area on your dial?

I checked MY's site, but he does not list a Tudor Sub dial. If you have 1, can you also post a pic of that?

Thanks.

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Thanks Pete. Yours looks like most of the gens in my archives. Like most aftermarkets, the fonts are slightly sharper & shallower on my caseback. The individual shapes of each letter are also ever so slightly different, which is a hallmark of an aftermarket part. But, otherwise, it looks pretty close to yours & the other gens in my archive. Alot of the gen casebacks have been worn or polished, leaving the lettering less legible. So I may try sanding the outside of the caseback over the weekend to see if I can widen & dull out the edges of the fonts. If they were 'worn' & less articulate, it might fly.

Other than my caseback having a date (I have seen similar date engravings on a number of gen casebacks), the inside of mine looks pretty close to yours. But is the gasket & gasket channel wider than mine? It looks like it is 3 times as wide, or is that just dirt or corrosion?

tudor70160051.jpg

Hey Freddy,

haha! no thats just a very squished gasket that needs replacing...

P.

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Frank, how did you re-paint the word 'SWISS' in the center after you blacked-out the existing text? Can you post a macro pic of that area on your dial?

I checked MY's site, but he does not list a Tudor Sub dial. If you have 1, can you also post a pic of that?

Thanks.

he told me he can make the dial - check the listing on ebay from NDT - but it takes around 6 weeks.

sorry - no pics - watch is already on the way to the new owner ... i didn't repaint SWISS - but tried to kind of fake it ...

i think its nearly impossible do do the painting by hand.

cheers,

Frank

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he told me he can make the dial - check the listing on ebay from NDT - but it takes around 6 weeks.

Do you mean that MY is copying NDT's dial & selling it for half of what NDT is charging?

sorry - no pics - watch is already on the way to the new owner ... i didn't repaint SWISS - but tried to kind of fake it ...

i think its nearly impossible do do the painting by hand.

I agree - it is nearly impossible to paint text on the dial, but I thought you had figured another option. I will check with MY or just leave the dial as is.

Thanks Frank.

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Do you mean that MY is copying NDT's dial & selling it for half of what NDT is charging?

I agree - it is nearly impossible to paint text on the dial, but I thought you had figured another option. I will check with MY or just leave the dial as is.

Thanks Frank.

so far yes - the NDT dials are the same - at least all that i could compare.

its a nice little business for NDT and others ... ;)

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so far yes - the NDT dials are the same - at least all that i could compare.

its a nice little business for NDT and others ... ;)

It just occurred to me that the NDT dial is made to fit a Tudor 390 movement (26mm dia with feet at 2 & 8 o'clock). Do you (or anyone else) know if the dial feet positions on the 390 are the same as the ETA 2483?

I think you can see 1 of the dial feet coming through the backside of the pillar plate a few mm's southwest of the stem in this picture of my watch, which would put it at 2 o'clock

7016foot.jpg

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