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Found 346 results

  1. Ok, it´s a technical marvel. It´s a real watch - a "Swiss Watch" "made in America", manufactured and assembled with care : Straightforward. No worries, no problems, no second thoughts. American assembly quality and You have it: You put in on the wrist – and it feels good. It sits. No need for adjustments, not too tight, not to loose, it just fits. The TC is thinner, more gen-like, by this changing the weight balance to a lower point on the wrist and wow You notice it, a lot, it does not “capsize” like the others, huge improvement and difference. What a quality feel with the bracelet and its opening mechanism, it snaps open, it has a resistance than snaps, tight, solid, as it should be. The movement – perfect, no rattling, no shaking, feels “gen-like”. Screwing out the crown – again perfect feel, no scratching, no pushing, no fiddling around, no trying, it just clicks and You set date and time, smoothly, no resistance at all – perfectly working. Simply GREAT! As for the looks, a lot has been said already the TC sub catches the light, it blinks, it reflects. Shine and perfection of the triangle and circles is fantastic. The lettering on the dial is crisp and uses different fonts than the asian ones. The black is smooth and a deep black. One other huge difference/improvement is how the second hand attaches to the center wheel – it just looks perfect. For this "Cadell Submariner Rouge 25-286" I just had to have that inverted datewheel without the Cyclops for the balanced overall "Seadweller-type" look and the crisp red second hand sweeping is just fascinating. Thanks for this TC On to the pics, got a little carried away.. enjoy: And my 2 new favourite together:
  2. Hello there, I've received the QC pics of my new Submariner 116610LN V6s. As I'm not VERY good with doing QC's; I'd love to receive some help from the more experienced, (Rolex) Qc connoisseurs. Please chime in with your knowledge and help me out as much as you can, would be greatly appreciated. - Are there any flaws? If so, which? - Should I ask for more (detailed) pictures? - Should I Accept it? I hope to hear from you guys, I have about 16 hours to get back to them before they will send it to me. Thank you so much in advance!
  3. Hello, I want to know more about Phong! I want details? How well does he make the watches and can he be trusted?
  4. Hey all, ive been searching through this site but can't find any reference to any Australian based trusted dealers. purchased my first rep through Alphabay about a year ago and pretty pleased until recently when it started to fall apart. Pearl fell out (replaced) - then the crown logo from the clasp fell off. Bezel now goes both ways and it's all starting to annoy me. now looking for something of better quality and saw this site as a great place to start. im looking for a James Cameron edition deepsea seasdweller (Rolex) and would love to be pointed in the right direction of either an Australian based dealer or someone who's has / does send to australia chwers all for your help
  5. It's been a while since the last time I posted some pictures of watches out of my collection. In today's spotlight is my Rolex Explorer II 216570. Enjoy them!
  6. Brand New to the forums and so excited to be here. I have been reading through a lot of different topics and getting acquainted with the lingo and members. I can't believe this community is so tight knit and you all share of love for the perfect replica. I'm still working on getting my hands on a great Rolex watch at the prices listed on here. It's so thrilling to share my thoughts and experiences in South Florida with you all. I can't wait to meet more of you and become a notable member here. Please stop by and introduce yourself and show the noob some love. Can't wait to get on my replica game like all of you!
  7. Hi there fellow collectors and watch lovers! Thank you for the chance to be a part of this great community!!! Collecting vintage watches and reps since ever. So I really remember the times when I bought my first reps in the 90s ... oh my, compared to todays great pieces I can say, they really changed a LOT for the better :-) My favourite brands are AP, PP & Rolex Especially vintage style reps and modded reps with a special creative touch I like a lot. Hope to get more inspiration, ideas and knowlege here in future to work more on my planned rep mod projects. (hope to have also enough time off my job for that ....:-) Have a great time! Elias
  8. Hello, Does it exist replica movement for Day-Date accepting Gen Dials /no leg cutting/ and Gen Hands? As I know such movements exists for Submariners, but haven't heard for DayDate. Thanks
  9. A member sent me this link. Any of you Rolex experts ever heard of these crystals? Please chime up. Thanks! http://www.startimesupply.com/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY_X&Store_Code=1&Category_Code=1D_Rolex_Crystal_Sapp-CY-GMT&Product_Code http://www.startimesupply.com/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY-30&Store_Code=1&Category_Code=1H-Parts-Gaskets-Crystal-Rolex&Product_Code
  10. I'm going to purchase a jk factory 1665 for an upcoming build. My question is there any mods that need to be done to fit 26.5mm dials? I'm thinking I will get a dial from Minh and don't really want to have to make major changes to it or the case if I don't have to. Also is there a TD that anyone recommends over the others? I've been in contact with Mary, Toro, and Sead. They all seem about the same price and all claim they can get the JK Factory 1665.
  11. Hi, Do you guys know where I can buy a decent 1665 rolex insert? I saw that pmwf inserts were no more available. I saw the yuki one http://www.yukiwatch.com/catalog/item/9020785/10270361.htm and the Phong http://www.jewelryandwatch.com/contents/en-us/d242_Insert_Bezel.html what do you think of these ones and do you know better 1665 insert on the market?(except gen ones of course) thank you for your help.
  12. Hey all !!! Today I want to introduce my last mod, a Rolex 5512 marked as Serpico Y Laino. (For those who do not know who was Serpico & Laino, you will read: http://www.rolexencyclopedie.nl/english/models/212/). A few months ago I found here in the forum (of a very nice member) the following Dial with damaged lume on two. Have it repaired! And I started to build: Cartel Case completely Revised and modified as "Square Crown Guards". As Movement I decided for an ETA 2451 with 18.000 A/h, just like the Rolex caliber 1530, it carries out this model in his time. Yuki faded Insert. Gilded hands of Tiger-concept. I hope you liked it my presentation
  13. Wanted to know if any of you fellow members have purchased the seemingly impossible to find new 2016 Daytona. I have seen the ones the TD offer. Even msged back and fourth with a few of them. To my knowledge one factory is better than the other but at the end of the day it may be personal preference. Has anyone gotten a rep of the new 2016 Daytona? If so what are you're thoughts?
  14. Recently I purchased 6202(from local market), 1680(intime), 1675(local market). Those 3 stunning watch all had been vintatage finished. 6202:sanded and faded,dot patina,dirt hand. 1680:sanded and faded to gray,yellow patina, grey with bit pink hand. 1675:faded,nipple yellow patina, dirt hand. Thank you for watching and give me some advice to make it much more better. Lost phone after 1680 vintage built.So there is some random picture of afterfinish.
  15. I recently started getting into vintage Rolex watches. Specifically the Paul Newman watch. Every time I travel to a different city I go to vintage watch stores to check out what they have. Most of you know that the vintage rolex watches are crazy expensive. Having said that how difficult is it to build a new perfect vintage Paul Newman Rolex? I know there are a few different color options and of out of those which is the coveted among the Paul Newmans? I have a few genuine rolex watches and just now have done more and more research on forums like this. I dont think I will ever buy a genuine watch again given that several websites have great replicas. I would rather pay a couple hundred dollars than $8,000+. Let me know what you guys think and if any of you members has any vintage Paul Newmans youre looking to get rid of I would be interested. Thanks.
  16. Hello friends of vintage watches !!! Today I want to introduce my last mod, a ROLEX Gmt 1675 El Cornino PCG with gilt closed minute Dial. I hope you enjoy it Case: Cartel GMT 1675 by Sead. Bezel Insert: Yuki. Dial: Yuki. Hands: Rafflestime.
  17. Another amazing watch hidden away surfaces. This 5517 came up on the Antiques Roadshow a while back, it was valued on the show at £40k and later sold at Bonhams for £120k. The original second hand was swapped at some stage, which wasn't mentioned in the appraisal (starts at 43.30): https://www.bonhams.com/auctions/22790/lot/129/
  18. So, I've started to collect the parts for my 1655 "Freccione", so far I have: Gen Service Dial, Gen Service Hands, Gen MK IV bezel, Gen 1575 GMT movement. Gen old style NOS Tropic 116 Still on the shopping list: Phong's 1655 Mid case + case back Gen 6mm winding crown + tube Gen Bracelet, either 78360, 62510H, 93510 (I'm still deciding although I'm leaning toward the "D link" jubilee) I need to know which 6mm winding crown should I buy. I know that the1655 uses a men's Datejust 6mm crown as opposed to the 1675 5.3mm crown. Has anyone got the correct Rolex part number for the crown + tube? thank you Max
  19. Hi Gents ! For those of you interested in 50'Subs and their evolution, here are few shots borrowed from P. STAHL Instagram, about one of his recent acquisition : a beautiful military version of our beloved Ref. 6538. Take a look to that bezel, "prototype-lly" made to be even easier turning around in deep water missions for the MOD divers. Big crown, "german silver" Bezel and Red Depth dial... Cheers!
  20. Hello everyone, I am new and I am glad I joined this site. I would like to ask you if someone could help me to find a nice golden Rolex day date in a good quality. I am very exited to get this watch. I have seen very nice qualities here and I am very impressed! I am looking forward to hear from you. Contact me. Thanks. Rob
  21. My goal was to build a 5513 that aged like it's seen the world. It's not about beating-up a watch, but making it believable that it is 50+ years old. I guess I'd call it "giving the watch it's character". It's the little details that make the difference on your wrist! I absolutely love the way the dial, hands & case turned out on this one. The dial in particular is absolutely gorgeous and the way the GILT Rolex letters reflect the light alter certain angles is unmatched by any cheap printed dial. There's a reason why a GILT dial alone on a gen Rolex adds about 30.000$ to it's price. Doing these build properly takes a lot of time, I often start work on a watch and then abandon it for weeks until I have an eureka moment about something I could do to get the look that I want on the dial, hands, case, and so on. I also lost count on how many hand-sets, bezel inserts and dials I wasted due to experimenting (so don't feel bad if you ended up damaging parts while trying something new :)). What I used: CASE: 5513 from Sead BEZEL: Phong Fat Font Insert BRACELET: Yuki 7206 Folded Bracelet MOVEMENT: Replaced w/ a low-beat 2813 DIAL: Tropical GILT dial from Vietnam HANDS: Clark's GILT Mercedes Hands CRYSTAL: Michael Young (CWP) Tropic 19 CROWN/TUBE: Athaya 700 What I did: CASE: The stock case was too round for my taste and the stock lugs slightly too thick, so I completely reshaped the case from all sides and angles (including the lugs from top, bottom & side). I re-defined & polished the bevels/chamfers several times to make them look like they would look on a watch that has been polished (but not extremely over-polished) the years. Crown guards were trimmed on the inside and re-shaped from the outside. After getting the case in the correct shape, I aged it & polished it several times over and over to give it character. Last but not least, I drilled the tube hold, tapped new threads and drilled a cut a countersink to install the 700 tube properly (without the countersink, the tube and as a result the crown will stick out too far and look hideous). DIAL: I aged the lume of the gilt dial & gave it a nice patina as I'd expect it on a watch that has gone so tropical. I also aged the dial itself a little to give it some patina that goes well with the tropical turned brown color - not full-blown radium dust like I did on another build recently (since this represents a tritium watch), but a little to make it believable that there was some radioactive substance, sun-light and other corroding factors present. HANDS: I used several steps involving different mixtures made of various minerals & chemicals and even soft-drinks to get this look that resembled old gilt tritium hands. BRACELET: The 7206 bracelet from Yuki looked like it was brand new, especially the inside of the bracelet (which was brushed) bugged me, since I own a few genuine folded rolex bracelets and a bracelet this old shouldn't be brushed on the inside anymore - even if has been restored at some point. I aged & polished the inside of the Yuki bracelet to mimic the look of my well-taken-care-off gen folded bracelets. BEZEL: It's a phong fat font insert that was aged, browned, re-coated and pressure-fit into the the bezel ring. - Note about my Vintage Builds: I often receive PMs from members asking me if I could build a specific watch for them, but I declined all of these requests for the reason I mentioned earlier - doing these vintage builds properly takes time and passion for the work. I don't think you can do this on a "contract basis". I end up selling many of my watches, but even if I start building something with the intention of selling it later-on, I build each one of them as if I'd build them for myself. So if you like some of the watches I build so much that you want one, I appreciate the trust and I'm definitely flattered, but I'd ask you to not PM me and ask me to build a specific watch for you. I'll put up whatever I decide to sell in the Sales Section. Eye-candy:
  22. The second just stopped. Crown, hands and date are all smooth. Rotor spins quietly as well. No amount of winding and case tapping revive it. What are my options to repair or swap out the movement? This is a v6s hulk.
  23. Hi Gents, When I first got myself in the RepWorld, it was mainly related to early Bond Movies: I was looking for - as many of us - to replicate Connery/Broccoli famous wristwatch. From that time, my taste evolved and I ended with one 6200 and one 6538. But that's not the point here. Here are two detailed screenshots I took from Goldfinger and Thunderball BR-rip, we all know about: From what I can see, this is not - as some of us use to believe - a Gilt Dial & Hand Set but rather a Service Dial (white and printed) and a Silver Hand Set. Is that it, or am I missing something here ? That would be the question I'm asking you, as I never really find a good answer/explanation to that... question
  24. Just wanted to fire up a thread on a 6541 Milgauss build as I get started with it and progress through it. Wanted to share some initial QC pics of the dial and case, etc. Literally all the components of the build is en route to me and needed parts start showing up first thing next week... (Some inspiration for the build:) Dammit Slay... A genuine 6541 Milgauss is an extremely rare bird indeed with auction estimated well into the six figures if and when they even do pop up on the auction block. Accordingly, a 6541 build of your own can get EXTREMELY expensive. Maybe not a quarter mil like a gen, but still... There are few case options out there for vintage Milgauss builds and what is out there is pricey. More with this build than some others perhaps, but the case, as much as the dial, makes or breaks this project. The case is especially important because of the unique internal construction of its Farraday cage shielding the movement from potentially harmful magnetic fields. Aside from the frankly terrible budget (Cartel?) out-of-the-box versions of the 6541 that are floating around, you're left with what appears to be pretty much just two (albeit two very good) case set options: Phong or MQ. And if you've ever looked into the case prices of either, you start to understand why so few people endeavor upon these builds - Minh Q's case comes in at around $1250 and Phong's around $1800(!) iirc. So before you even start looking for dials you're already in the hole for over a grover. Damn... Now, I'm not one to skimp on my builds, but this was already staring to look like a money pit even if this is essentially a mid-shelf "budget" version of a Milgauss build LOL. So I put the idea of the build on the back burner for a while and turned my attention back to the gen-dialed 1016 build I'm working on. That is until I saw Slay's sales post with his absolutely STUNNING 6541 franken build. Slay spared no expense, MQ case and dial, gen 1030 movement, gen hands, the works... My jaw hit the ground. It was damn near perfect and now I had to build one. So I re-started my search and began weighing my case and dial options in earnest once again. Dial As luck would have it, a "new" guy had popped up on Instagram about 6 months ago peddling high end rep dials and a few cases, Tonnywatches. I started following him and was pretty impressed with the quality of the dials he was posting; "Vietnam" dials that were, to my eye anyways, on par with or very close in quality (maybe even the same?) to the dials Minh Q offers (some of the better aftermarket dials for many builds imho), but at less than half the price in some instances. I'm always weary of new sellers (who isn't, right?) but his 6541 dial looked an awful lot like MQ's and it cost about 40% of what the MQ dial costs so I said what the hell and pulled the trigger and purchased one. Looks pretty good to me; the coroner is so-so, but I have a gen white gold dial coronet to replace that one, and I'm might give those lume plots a very understated aging/re-lume. Love the fade on the reddish-pink Milgauss text and the SCOC printing/spacing looks pretty good compared to reference photos of gen dials. Certainly not "perfect" in any sense of the word, but pretty good all things considered and again looks almost identical to the $750 MQ dial. The printing is a little heavy handed and they didn't get the "crippled" R in Perpetual right amongst other minute details, but you really can't beat it for the price. Hands Only one really strong option imho for the 6541's characteristic thunderbolt seconds hand and that's Michael Young at CWP. Looks great and it's long enough to extend into the dial's minute track as per gen. The hour and minute hands, however, are the leaf-shaped hand type with the lume and I want to fit a set of the no lume all-metal "leaf" hands that were also fitted to the 6541. Luckily for me, Offrei offers the near-exact same style hands in an array of sizes and fit for ETA so they'll be compatible with my movement choice and I can get the lengths just right (like a 12.5-13mm minute hand extending into the track like the seconds hand). I'm going to remove the red paint from the thunderbolt tip and age the hands with some sulfur, acids, and some light abrasives. The below reference photo of a gen shows the style, length and aging of the hands I'm going for: Since I'm using an ETA movement (more on that in a minute) I won't have to broach the hands either (which I have an atrocious track record with). Might have been the easiest sourcing yet: a quick email exchange with Michael, payment sent and hands on their way in a matter of days. Ordered a spattering of differently sized and shaped leaf hands from Offrei. They were so cheap I was able to buy enough that I'll be able to make sure I get the aged look correct and possibly file down a larger sizes minute hand to match the length of the CWP thunderbolt. Case When I was going back and forth with Tonny about the dial, I happened to dig a little bit deeper into his Instagram and saw that he actually had a 6541 case set he was offering mixed in amongst the photos of his various small crown, big crown, etc. cases. It looked pretty good in the photo he posted and I already had some experience with one of his 5508 case sets that I had purchased for a friend of mine, so I knew the quality was pretty good and that, generally speaking, his cases were pretty gen-spec. For sure, some modifications would have to be done (lug bevels need some tlc for instance), but again the price was right especially considering the case construction had the correct Farraday cage that is central to getting this build right. All said, case set and dial would cost me less than half of what just a Phong case set would've cost me. So again, I pulled the trigger and asked Tonny for some quick QC pics before making my purchase: (Photo from Tonnywatches Instagram:) (QC photos:) You get the idea... Pretty good if you ask me, but still much work to be done. The dial/cage construction is correct and I'm comfortable re-doing the perlage on the Farraday cage back. The only thing not pictures (which is, in fact, included with the case) is the cross-shaped metal tension "spring" that seats into the inside of the case back and keeps the cage snugly sandwiched together around the movement protecting it from magnetic field variations (well, in theory anyways haha). Other than that, I'll weigh my options on having the mid case re-shaped/thinned and maybe re-do the lug bevels. Should make a good base though for sure... Bezel, Insert, Crown, etc. Some of the finer details of the case set have yet to be seen since I'm still waiting on it to show up from Tonny, but there are some modifications that are inevitable: Gen crown is an easy one,; already have a few various 6mm gen crowns in the parts drawer and a gen 602 tube which are way less problematic than installing a 600 tube which would have been "more" correct for a 6541. No question, a 602 would've been installed during a service however, and requires no broaching/modification prior to install. I picked up a gen T-16 beveled service crystal, and as luck would have it, also happen to have an aftermarket domed T-16 from Phong sitting gathering dust. I love the look of the Milgauss with its domed crystal, but much prefer the practicality of the lower-profile beveled service so it'll be nice to have both should I ever decide to switch between one or the other. The insert that comes with the Tonny case is suspect and I had already acquired a Phong 6541 insert before I got the case, so I'm going to give the Tonny insert some heavy aging for a more worn-in/beat up look for the watch should I ever want it. The Phong insert is pretty spot on; the only thing I might do to it is bleach out the red triangle a little bit and give it a good fade. The bezel ring looks pretty suspect in the QC pictures as well, but I'll have to wait to have it in hand before I can see if it's up to snuff with the shape of the coin edge or if I'll be able to properly age it to give it an older, polished worn-in look. Tonny assured me its plates brass so I'll be able to sand/age/tarnish/polish the bezel and take it down to the brass in what I feel is a more appropriate look for a half-century old watch. If the bezel construction or shape isn't good enough however, I'll just buy one from MQ as I feel his is just a tiny bit better than the one Phong offers and both are pretty solid stand-ins for the genuine article. Yet again neither option is cheap (see a theme developing here?), so I'm hoping the Tonny bezel passes muster. The case should be here in a week so I'll know for certain then. The engravings also look a little iffy in the QC photos, and if they're too are not good enough then hopefully I can send the mid and back to JMB to be re-done. Plenty of bracelet options as I've got both an NDT and Yuki 7206 waiting in the wings and picked up this really nice NOS StyleCraft 20mm tropic rubber strap that I think will look good on either my 1016 or the 6541 for a more subdued look that's still somewhat substantial and fitting for the era of the watch to a certain degree: Movement As you can see, I've already got a decent amount invested into this build, and as nice as it might be to put a cal. 1030 into a build like this, it just doesn't seem all that practical to me because: a) the Farraday cage covers the movement so you don't see it, b ) sourcing parts and servicing a 1030 movement is becoming increasingly difficult and cost prohibitive, and c) I plan on wearing this watch. A lot. And the ETA 2782 I'm using is far more rough & tumble-ready than the 1030. I found a brand new NOS watch with a 2782 that had been sitting untouched and unused in storage for the last few decades. It's in really great shape, and after a good cleaning and oiling, will run like a dream. The 2782 has a nice low beat rate, good stem height, good canon pinion height, and the same Kif shock absorbers Rolex would later use in its 1500-series movements so it should be able to handle a fair amount of wear and tear. I got a Yuki 1030 ETA movement ring to make it fit in the case correctly, and one of the only internal modifications I'll need to do is notch out the middle ring of the Farraday cage so the movement clamps can seat the movement in the case properly. The Farraday cage is 3 parts: the interior case back, the middle ring section with a small opening for the winding stem, and the dial (the bottom side of which "completes" the cage by capping over the movement and lining up flush with the middle ring section. Like the Phong dial and cage, the dial has no feet so as long as I can get the cage pieces to line up properly and get the movement with the Yuki adapter seated firmly in the cage install should be relatively painless. All things considered, once I have all the pieces in front of me the assembly will go rather quickly hopefully. I'll update this thread as o go along with each part of the build so hopefully I can glean some insight from others and maybe be the "guinea pig" with one of these Tonny cases (and dial for that matter). Stay tuned...