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  1. Today
  2. I've said this all before in bits and pieces. Here it is, all in one spot. All imho. Below is a 'Cliff Notes' version of my experience with 'Quality vs Junk' watch movements and I've had my share of each to say the least. Almost all of the 'Quality' part of the experience was witnessed before I mis-adventured into the wide-wide world of replicas. I have owned many quality genuine mechanical watches including Bulova, Longines, Omega, Mido, Girard Perregaux, Zodiac, Rolex, Patek, V&C, AP, JLC, Cartier, and others. A few had common A Schild, ETA etc. movements, some had modified A/S, ETA etc. while others had 'in house' movements. What brands gave the least trouble? Looking back, I would say Bulova/Longines/Rolex manual wind, and 1530 base automatic Rolex...plus most brands with ETA, A/S etc. Two of my favorites, Zodiac and GP were Ok but their modified A/S movements have overly complicated date works, especially if they have a day and date. Many Bulova models had slightly modified Swiss movements made for Bulova and were easy to work on and find parts. Brands with ETA movements do not give much trouble and when they do need c/o and/or parts, they are easy to work on and parts are easy to find...for now. No doubt the friendly Swatch outfit is trying to cut ETA parts off just like every other swissy NP-FY watch company. I can't really comment on Patek, V&C, Cartier, Patek etc. because I never owned one very long or wore one much at all. I do not want to get stuck with one of these brands with an 'in house' movement needing parts. I could get parts from PP, JLC and a few others in the past but my connections are all long gone along with just about everyone else's connection. My Cartier watches had ETA mechanical movements, ETA 2000 in Tank Franchaise, ETA 2892 in Pasha, and ETA quartz in a Santos. They were all older models and it looks like Cartier has gone 'in house' or using exclusive movements now...anything to keep the $$$ 'in house'. Have a couple quartz Ebel watches needing Cartier type 'in house' movements and I will probably substitute an ETA movement for the 'in house' movement. Already fixed a couple Ebel 'Sport Wave' watches that way and the first one has been running since June 2010. Now for the JUNK: Almost ALL of the JUNK was a replica of some sort with an etaclone or miyaclone movement. Also had some trouble with ST19 Seagull chronographs but not much. Have a few A7750 watches but they are still nos because to tell the truth...I do not have the guts to wear one because I do not want to have to fix it. To be fair, I have had pretty good experience with most of the Miyota clones...Seagull ST16/NN/DG etc, but have had more than a few duds too, mostly assembly mistakes, dry of oil, or dirty. The ST16 is a Miyota/Seiko clone with Miyota type running gear and a version of the Seiko 'Magic Lever' winding system. Most Seagull ST6 autos have been Ok. Parts are not much of a problem for the '21 jewel' clones in general because you can buy another movement for $25/$40 or get needed parts from a 'parts movement'. You are always going to have a few 'parts movements' if you work on this...shall we say it politely, JUNQUE. Never owned any of the current crop of 3135/3235/4130 rolexaclones but from what I have read they are either Ok or NOT Ok off the bat or soon after...many being NOT Ok. When one goes out of whack, parts are a big problem and some who work on them buy high $$ genuine parts to replace defective replica parts, but that runs into a LOT of $$ quickly...plus labor. So...it looks to me like everyone is basically on their own with rolexaclones. I for one do not need the hassle because finding and buying parts to fix a genuine rolex is bad enough. A DJ/OPD/AK/5512-13/1680/16610 etc. with a freshened swisseta 28xx would be a better bet for me. Typos are free.
  3. Greetings fellow members. Hope all is well at your end of the woods? I am pulling my last strands of hair out ( actually I have no hair left LOL!!) to figure out what is happening with my 2836-2 not keeping power or failing to wind after a few turns? I recently serviced it and prior to this everything else was ok but only losing time to stop. All seemed to be ok upon assembly ( all wheels spinning freely.,etc.etc), but somehow prior to assembling the automatic assembly, I try to manually wind the mechanism, but after a few turns of the winding crown, it slips and does not keep tension, At first I thought it was the mainspring, so to eliminate this possibility, I pulled a complete mainspring with barrel out of an identical perfectly working mechanism and had the same results. So, ruled out the mainspring issue!!! I then changed the ratchet wheel thinking that there was something worn with one of the teeth or maybe it was slipping in the square section where screw threads down, but again the same issue!!! What next to try? I then considered that there might have been an issue with the intermediate wheel of the train gears slipping. Disassembled the motion works and checked it out and looked ok? Seems like it has a mind of its own. Anyone ever had a similar experience, please chime in. Welcome any comments (including insults🤥), as long as it helps me find some direction to a solution. Easy option is to discard it but then I have learnt nothing!!! Many thanks in advance!!!
  4. Yesterday
  5. Sure. Both are: raffles 34mm cases Ar 294 domed crystal raffles ranger dial custom decal print dial - rose raffles time hands set silix bracelet on 90220 hand made rivet bracelet on 7995 clone eta 2824 movements.
  6. Bulova Accutron II 'Moonview' made in 2015, purchased in September 2016 ... I've changed the 3 volt 2016 cell every 2 years and it keeps time within a few seconds a month. No hour wheel trouble...yet. The damage to the plastic hour wheel might happen when the date is changed manually during the time it is getting ready to change on its own...just a guess but I have not heard of a no date Alpha having hour wheel trouble. Bulova stopped selling hour wheels and movements so I bought a 36mm lady style Precisionist for spare parts...same P102 movement, different date wheel and movement spacer. The bezel does not turn on the Moonview. With a GMT hand, rotating 24 hour bezel and screw down back, it would have been a huge hit. Snap backs on 'water resistant' watches should be against the law imho. Mesh bracelet from an eBay seller (20mm) and the clasp from another eBay seller... Mesh bracelets are fine but they are a hassle to cut to size. Have to be careful not to cut the wrong loop or it can ruin the looks. Do not know what the 'Y' stands for...Yet.
  7. Hi Guys! The blood is old here gents......................so much the better.
  8. Last week
  9. Be sure the screws are tight in the balance bridge.
  10. The rep scene has certainly changed a bit and for me it’s not quite as much fun as the old days Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  11. 'IF you are going to collect one of the "most faked models " from Tudor, you might as well have some really good fakes.' You got that right! Fine looking toots!
  12. Time goes so bloody quick these days eh 🙂
  13. With all the hype around the new ranger this year...You have to look back and appreciate the linage and where it comes from. Nearly identical build lists. The rose dial is from @manodeoro The shield dial is from Raffles. IF you are going to collect one of the "most faked models " from Tudor., you might as well have some really good fakes.
  14. I just received my 116519LN and it is a spectacular rep. The dial color is amazing...it changes color/texture depending upon the light source just like the gen. Only wish it weight a bit more...it comes in at 112grams...which borders on "flimsy" IHMO. I know the gen is solid gold (and 160grams), but it would be nice if they could find a way to add some heft to this rep.
  15. Just bought a watch from the sales corner here from an old friend - and I was shocked that we wrote the last time 11 years ago!!!
  16. My brother got this submariner as a rebate without papers, i was inspecting it i felt that something is not normal, i could be wrong but i think it is fake, can you please guys let me know your thoughts?? Sent from my SM-F916B using Tapatalk
  17. Well I thought I followed the instructions carefully by I managed to forward my watch to the year 2024. Is this fixable or do I just live with it. Here is the rep that I mistakenly set. https://puretimewatch.io/master-ultra-thin-perpetual-calendar-rg-v9f-1-1-best-edition-cream-dial-on-brown-leather-strap-a868-v2.html Can I get some advice from you experts out there. Regards, Dan
  18. Not unless you are replacing your pallet fork and balance, I would agree! Isopropyl Alcohol will dissolve the shellac that glues the pallet stones and the roller jewel under your balance! looks like benzene based hydrocarbons are still needed!
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