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Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/14/2021 in all areas

  1. Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-G981B met Tapatalk
    4 points
  2. Okay one80, let's talk about this. I started out exactly where you are... I loved the look of a Big Crown, and had to have one. "Only the best will do!" So I started researching. This is most important. Research. Know exactly what you want. Then research more... who makes the parts to build what you want? Armed with that knowledge, start acquiring parts. I recommend you find the dial first. You'll find there are complete crap Big Crowns out there, then there's a middle ground of pretty nice pieces that look perfectly good to 95% of people that see them. Then th
    4 points
  3. Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk
    4 points
  4. Most recent acquisition...
    3 points
  5. Here's something a bit unusual, a Zodiac Super Sea Wolf on Uncle Seiko's Razorwire band.
    3 points
  6. This is a little bit off topic but if anyone wonders how much it might cost to make rep-rep rlx 55xx, 1680 or SD cases here is an example (they look a bit more like vintage SD cases). They are $35.95 USD including delivery. I figure they cost $12 or $15 to make. The main differences between these cases and $700/$1000 cases are details, numbers, and letters. Spend a day detailing one and you are in the groove. Sorta. The Big Problem is they are made for 28.5mm dials. Boooo! on that but they could make them for 26.0 or 26.5mm dials for the same price if they wanted to. Ra
    2 points
  7. Hi Rpropp, I built them. They’re stupid easy to put together. Find a Turtle for sale used, then get your dial, hands, crystal, insert and beads of rice band from Yobokies. Get the bezel from One Second Closer. Then put ‘er together or have one of the modders here assemble it. It’s an hour’s work. They come up for sale sporadically, almost never in the light blue though. Good luck! Here’s the light blue Maranez, it was cheaper than the parts will be for the Soxa, not including the donor Turtle.
    2 points
  8. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2 points
  9. Exactly. 10yrs ago I think our Frankens could fool actual Rolex collectors because the vintage Rolex Market & Internet knowledge base hadn’t reached critical mass. I mentioned before, I go to a lot of GTGs pre-pandemic. The Frankens and eBay specials are showing up with no intent to deceive. It’s almost become a right of passage to show up with a questionable vintage Rolex. Case in point, there is always a 6542 available on eBay. Pretty amazing for such a rare watch 😉🤔 That said, I wouldn’t sweat the details as much these days. If you land on an aesthetic AN
    2 points
  10. Well guys things have calmed down a bit. A couple of factors, vaccines, our ability to treat w/ more knowledge & I would venture a bit of herd immunity from those who had but never knew it. I would like to talk about vaccines however bottom line get one if you can. Let me make my case: 72 year old frail women comes in two weeks after second Moderna shot , couple of issues but I think a UTI (Urinary Track Infection) but we test her she is positive for COVID.Well I go into isolation room she is breathing fine sating 95% O2 on room air last April /May she might have left in a body bag. (
    2 points
  11. one80: If your heart is set on a particular model & it has to be all gen, I would follow Nanuq's experience & deviate where necessary to end up with all gen parts. In that case, you may or may not live long enough to complete the project. On the other hand, if your goal is to end up with a gen vintage Rolex model, set your sights on a more common vintage model like the 1680/5512/5513. There are many more gen parts for these later vintage models floating around at much more "reasonable" prices, which will make your search easier (i.e., less costly & time-consuming). All gen e
    2 points
  12. I know not everyone likes being talked out of their goal, but I too went down this rabbit hole of once wanting to build a super Franken 6538, and I gave up before even starting. It wasn't impossible, but feel I used my better judgement and went away from it. As an alternative, might I suggest a Titus Calypsomatic. They start cheaper and Max out in the price range of building a 6538, have very similar characteristics, share the 37mm x 47mm dimensions, many have true negative relief dials, big crowns, and they have easy to service ETA 2472s inside. Here's the one I wear regularly. It's a pa
    2 points
  13. I am wearing the 'Dweller today, but I think I am going to switch to this tomorrow.........
    2 points
  14. Always buy the seller before the watch, especially if you can’t view it in person. I’ve bought plenty of watches online. I always ask for extra photos and if the seller isn’t forthcoming I just walk away.
    1 point
  15. "I would much rather see an aftermarket attempt to build a moment platform that: 1. Matches alignment with crown/tube holes 2. Accept genuine/aftermarket calendar wheels 3. Accept genuine/aftermarket hand size (and with an ETA Option) 4. Have a mounting system that leverages genuine case mounting (and with a case clamp option) 5. Has accommodations for Genuine or ETA dial feet, or Pie-Pan/6542/6538 dials 6. I really don't care about BPH. No one is fooling anyone anymore... " I am with you 100% except on number 6. Old model 10xx and 15xx rlx
    1 point
  16. They seem bit paranoid or cautious regards to international relations. How Switzerland Came to Dominate Watchmaking - The New York Times (nytimes.com) I got this article from NYT, Switzerland once copied British and American watches as swiss were considered inferior. Thousands of fake watches destroyed in Switzerland – FHH Journal (hautehorlogerie.org Appearently, the swiss were importing fake watches. More amusing, fake parts.
    1 point
  17. A minor detail, but I think the CCP run China more like authoritarian capitalists rather than communists.
    1 point
  18. Seriously, somebody need to direct copy a Audemasr Piguet Royal Oak movement..This is taking too long. If I was a bitcoin billionare, I would.. Not for profit but for the greater good of rep society.
    1 point
  19. I picked up this Maranez a couple years ago, but no steel bracelets existed at the time. So I found a 20mm Beads of Rice with straight ends, and a guy in the UK selling curved BOR endlinks. It has a massively thick case and an 11mm crown (!!!!!) but it looked like I could marry all the parts together. So a lot of file work and reshaping later, here she is.
    1 point
  20. Yes, but I doubt you'll ever find one. Gen inserts are absolutely out of sight and all you can hope to do is find a decent rep insert and maybe do a little aging to make it less noticeable. Phong's two vintage inserts are ok and there is the 6538 inserts down the page which can also be used on a 5510. There's a book "Vintage Rolex Sports Models" by Skeet and Urul which shows various 5510s- starting with a 6538 type insert shown on Phong's site and finally ending with the vintage type insert that Phong has which was used in the middle 60s. The thing about inserts is that they ar
    1 point
  21. I just looked on DHGate.com and this guy advertises a Noob Factory 4130 movement in his watch for $298 plus $9 shipping. https://www.dhgate.com/product/men-s-green-black-panda-dial-v4-version-wristwatches/683649185.html
    1 point
  22. Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk
    1 point
  23. Good question, and how are the Tempus Machina dials any different than what the Dark Lord is doing?
    1 point
  24. It has been several years since I was active in Daytona projects (& things may have changed since then), but many people modded movements from el primero-powered Zeniths they found on ebay. But with so many people building frankens & Daytona prices skyrocketing, I suspect it may be much easier just to get on a Daytona waiting list. If there is another option, another member with more recent experience may chime in.
    1 point
  25. My two 6542s are each built differently from each other. Both have my bezel and insert, and both have the 4th hand and the '+' Brevet crown I modified from Rafflestime. The one I built using the 1655 from Trusty Time uses the DG3804B it came with. I took off the crown guards, which is the most difficult part of this build. I am not talented enough to get that side of the case flat, so it looks a bit 'soft' as though it was over-polished. It's close, and passable, but not perfect. The easy part is that the rest of the setup is used as is, with the exception of the alternating red/
    1 point
  26. For those who care about history In regard to international relations. and how it affects behaviors of citizens. Continue reading. The problem with the west, they're too busy thinking of "dog eating jokes" and "cheap labor", not knowing how things actually work logistically in Asia. Numbers of dog farms are tiny compared to Pigs and Cow farms, dogs don't give enough meat and require too long to birth. Billions of dollars of meth and heroin were coming from Vietnam and Taiwan government (the same government the U.S is trying to protect was selling guns and heroin to ki
    1 point
  27. "Basically, looking for 1.8mm spring bars but with the full length of a 2.0mm and with thicker ends to take up all the room in the lug hole." I know exactly what you are looking for. One of the things I have is a big spring bar accumulation from many years 'collecting' and being a silent partner in a watch store. Do I have any spring bars in 1.8mm tube size with long 1.2mm tips? No. Never have seen any. Yet. But no doubt they are out there somewhere. What I have seen is a few 20mm SB with 1.8mm center tubes and long .9mm +/- diameter tips in a
    1 point
  28. Thanks again ... About the Samui ... I know they come with a flat sapphire but it will good enough as I'm not trying to build a perfect Rep I started making some Doxa Sub dials on request for a collector but I liked those so much that I've decided to build more of the variants ... Divingstar, Searambler, etc ... and even to design some "hommage" dials and adapt all those for diver watches ...
    1 point
  29. 1 point
  30. Ink jet water slide decals come two ways, clear and white. Ink jet does not print white. On the white decal paper anything you print is what you get. JMB has a different setup than I do, and his will print white. The clear decal paper is great for dark printing, but the lighter colors are more opaque, the background shows through. I use the clear on dials because I think the lettering coming from the background looks more crisp. I paint the dial white or creme for the background. You print at photo quality, so it is capable of being sharp and clear. Use Photo Shop or any other ph
    1 point
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