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Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/19/2019 in all areas

  1. 4 points
  2. 3 points
    Most of us still in the game, changing url 2 times a year
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    5517 built by dlf. Faded the insert and added an Athaya pearl. Skickat från min iPhone med Tapatalk
  5. 3 points
    Old river 6154 case, Southy dial and plenty of aging
  6. 3 points
    Holy CRAP there are some sweet pieces floating around here! How about a little one-liner description of the eye candy when you post it up? Anyone who's been around here very long will recognize this hallowed granite desktop. A very kind and very generous dear friend offered to install this Brevet crown for me. What a joy to see my watch in his workshop.
  7. 2 points
  8. 2 points
    On another note 21Js are cheap but if you get a good one it will chug along just fine not the greatest sweep but a work horse.
  9. 2 points
    Actually Ssteel answered both your questions, though rather succinctly. This will help explain what we refer to as a "21j" movement here. Our apologies, it's just vernacular. The best way to use the watch is to wind it a few turns to get it running, then simply wear it. It will auto-wind with wrist movement. Some of my watches can take 40 or 50 turns until they're fully wound. If you give this one 10 to 20, it will be more than enough to get it going and keeping time.
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    Ciao Inviato dal mio iPhone utilizzando Tapatalk
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    I love this classic model T!
  14. 2 points
    Skickat från min iPhone med Tapatalk
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    The crown that comes with is decent, Athaya is better. The build is restarted. After accepting that a 1520 can be circumverted and aint a necessity... Just purchased a PowerMatic 80 (2824 with 21600bph) will be stripped to non-date and only ”1 crown hack”. Hands will be converted to fit. Dial too.. 7030 crown tube purchased. Soon hearing to Domi for conversion/mods...
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  21. 1 point
  22. 1 point
    Depending on what hemisphere you’re in, you line up the hour hand to the sun, and turn the inner bezel until south points between 12:00 and the hour hand.
  23. 1 point
    . Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
  24. 1 point
    Dang Horfan- there's two of these watches floating around!
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    I've been here for over 11 years now. Hard to believe it's been that long. My first rep was an Eddie Lee 3717, although I din't buy it directly from him. I have a DW cased 6263, a WM9 16610 LV from BK and bought/sold pieces and parts from a lot of the "old timers" here. Wish Ubi was around more (although he still stops by now and then). His builds were legendary. Also wish The Zigmeister was still doing work. Great craftsman. I consider myself fortunate to have a piece he worked on in my collection.
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  29. 1 point
    Hi guys, I received a email from DSN and he still have few in stock. I will order one and i ask him if he could sell spare part like ( dial, crystal) I let you know.... THANKS AGAIN FOR YOUR HELP YOUR ARE THE BEST !!!!
  30. 1 point
    Excellent work! Wear it in good health!
  31. 1 point
    "These 60-70 dive watches are a cool part of the history." Totally agree. Twenty five years ago... I bought a few vintage divers back when they were $50 to $100 used in good condition and still have most of them today. The Zodiac Sea Wolf is a favorite except for the horrible snap on case back. They really bit the weenie on that. Loaded up on Bulovas, especially dressy Oceanographers but they are not really dive watches with fluted 10k gold bezels like a DJ but they were rated at 330 feet and had 'Ocean' in their name. I call them 'OOs', like in Oh, Oh, is that water in your watch? They came with yellow or white solid 10k gold fluted bezels with yellow or silvertone markers/crowns. The white gold bezel models are harder to find, especially with black dials. Caravelle also made some steel '666' and '333' dive watches. They made a slew of 333 ft wr 'Half Devils' with Citizen movements in the 1970s and they are good for everyday wear...cool looks, rugged, thin, accurate, and affordable. Now and then you can find one fairly cheap. Past few years... Traded into a pretty good vintage Aquadive 3 or 4 years ago but it is gummed up and I never fixed it. Same with a Hamilton 'Compressor' and a few others that are beginning to be worth fixing. Many of the less famous vintage dive watches were rated the same as 1960s/1970s rolex submariners but rlx knocked most of them out with a larger selection of models and slick advertising. Now divers wear a $175 plastic Mares Puck. While rolex is in the $20,000 Cuff Shooter watch business. Twenty thousand dollars!! Times have changed. Here is a good laugh: http://forums.timezone.com/index.php?t=tree&goto=7621918&rid=0#msg_7621918
  32. 1 point
    This really spoke to me today. It reminds me a lot of how we at RWG reach around the globe sharing our passion for our hobby too. Take a moment today. Just Look Up.
  33. 1 point
  34. 1 point
    Hi Guys, I'm totally new here - so please go easy on me. I recently inherited the below watch and I have some reasons to suspect that it's not genuine. Before I go strolling into my local Rolex Boutique, I figured I get some opinions on here. Onto the photos: The obvious areas of concern is the bracelet and case which seem to be plated gold (but not on the back)... Aren't all "gold" Rolex models solid gold? And the brushing of the Oyster Bracelet seems to be the reverse of a "normal" bracelet.. Happy to answer any questions and/or take more photos. 😊
  35. 1 point
    Thank you Automatico, JackFlash, and a lot of other people in addition to the whole forum who helped me over the years I've been learning. This 5513 is by no means perfect but I definitely could not have gotten this far with getting the look I want without this forum. Thank you! The dial and hands are HR and I used watercolor markers to make the indicators and hands slightly yellowed. The key is to use one that is ochre colored and to also use a clear one so you can blend or erase. The dial was given a light spray of matte lacquer. The pictures don't show it but it really gives it a nice matte finish and you have to do this if you use water colors on the indicators or they would change/disappear. The crystal is a PA 462-67 from Otto Frei. This was the only Tropic 19 from Otto Frei that seemed to fit. The MQ case definitely uses 28.2mm as the case neck and not the smaller 28.03mm diameter found on early submariners. So the other generic tropic 19's were too small and would crack. It would be interesting to try other tropic 19's though, I wonder if other famous crystals like the german Tropic 19 or genuine Rolex tropic 19's would work? The midcase is a 5513 replica from MQ Vietnam. The caseback is a HR 5513 caseback. (It not only fits perfectly, but even the genuine spec O-ring gaskets fit perfectly so I think HR really replicated the 5513 caseback. I wonder why he won't try to make gen. spec 5513 midcases? The bezel assembly minus the pearl is from Watchman408 on Ebay. (Great guy, highly recommend, he makes sure the insert fits snugly into the bezel and that the bezel snaps onto the retaining ring if you ask him to check before shipping) WSO parts from Ebay never fit and are utter crap in my experience. I bleached the insert before attaching the Athaya pearl. The 702 crown replica and the pearl are from Athaya The movement (for now) is a SeaGull 2824-2 with datewheel removed and no spacer since that's all that will fit in a gen. spec 5513 case until I buy a 1520, 1530, or 1570 movement in the near future. I used a Yuki ETA adapter movement holding ring which was a little too big in diameter so I had to gently remove material until it fit perfect. This was fine because it's Okay if it's too big, you can always remove material but not add any. I don't know if Yuki error's on the side of too big so you can remove or if maybe Seagull 2824-2's are .3 or .5 mm bigger in diameter than Gen. ETA 2824-2? Either way, not big deal. I took my time to lock the movement down really snug, because I wear my watches hard so I didn't want any slop. Just like you guys taught me, the stem will still not perfectly line up when you put a 2824-2 in a 5513 case. It will work but I notice the stem has weird problems when you try to install, remove, or set the times every now and then. I got it working and the watch is watertight to at least over 200 feet so I'll just leave it as it until I buy a rolex movement. I used a DIY waterproof tester and the watch easily passed 200 feet of water resistance. I think it can go higher but the DIY waterpoof tester might explode if I go beyond 200 feet of water pressure and unlike you lucky bastards across the pond, hospital visits are expensive for me. I paddleboard in the ocean fishing and lobster diving (only to 35 feet) and surf. I can't take a phone with me and I lose track of time out on the water so it's good to have a watch back on my wrist. I'm hoping to find a 1520 or 1570 no date movement which if I understand correctly, will drop right in to gen. 5513 spec cases so at that time I will probably just buy a Vietnam dial and hands.
  36. 1 point
  37. 1 point
    ... another option Rubyswatch.com (you’ll need to email for password access)
  38. 1 point
    MQ is a PIA to deal with IMHO. I won’t be dealing with him again. HR is a great budget solution for an ETA movement. They will even custom lume a dial to your spec for $20 extra. Just send them a shot of a dial for reference. However, you do need to matt varnish the dial on arrival, as the application is delicate to say the least (water colour based). Here’s an example.
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    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  48. 1 point
    Back from the slimming clinic overseas
  49. 1 point
    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  50. 1 point
    I wish I had asked this question before I installed a brand new A2836 in the watch. My lack of skill mixed with the difficulty of installing PO hands on the short CP created some noticeable damage to the logo on the dial and a scratch on the hour hand. I honestly don't know why I mess with my reps so often


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