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Only the (modded) mid-case is MBW

A great servant to the UK, the Commonwealth and the World. There will never be another like her. She worked up until the day she died and was respected globally.

5513 on a 9315 folded link bracelet

Not a 'wristie' but a 14K 'double back' Waltham '92'... Decorated '1892' series movement with gold jewel settings... This is a low production pendant set 1892 type movement and the cases were special made for this movement. Afaik there were not many movements like this made as most were lever set. Besides having pendant set and only one case screw where most have two, it is 16 size and the majority of 1892 models were 18size. The guy who c/o the watch last month said it is a strange bird, and he has been working on PWs for 50+ years. When he c/o it about 10 years ago he said it was the second one he could remember working on. Yesterday, he said it was still only the second one after thousands of PW jobs. The other one was in a 14K yellow gold filled case. Chances are this watch was sold with the movement already cased (probably sometime in the late 1890s) because of the odd ball movement. Back then, jewelers sold most high grade pocket watches in two pieces...the movement, and the case. Back before there was so much watch trading and case/movement swaps, you saw many top grade RR Approved movements in cheap chrome plated cases etc. because the owner wanted RR accuracy but did not care much about the case or could not afford a high $$ case. The case and porcelain (applied over brass) dial are slightly oversize for a 16 size movement as can be seen in the pic with the backs open. It was made back then for a 'Gentleman' who wanted a 'Big Gold Watch'. Inside the case back it has 'Assayed 14K' = solid 14K gold. 'Pendant set' = winds and sets by the crown. Many RR etc. pocket watches were 'lever set' and had a small lever under the bezel that had to be pulled out to set the time. The bezels had to be unscrewed and removed every time the watch was set. This was the rule with most later RR Approved PWs so the time could not be altered by mistake. The case, both case backs, bezel, crown, and pendant (bow) are all 14K gold. The case is in 90% condition and the hinges are like new and tight. The crystal is glass. The 'Gentlemen' owners took very good care of it throughout the years. Although not a 'Gentleman' of any sort, I've owned it 14 years and also take good care of it. The Model 92 Story - Waltham Watch Company's Model 1892

Just bought a watch from the sales corner here from an old friend - and I was shocked that we wrote the last time 11 years ago!!!

Here it is ... build finished a few days ago. Only the bracelet is missing and then definitively completed.

Jack - I think I love every watch you have!

Steel manual wind DOXA from the 1950s... 'Rare' German made steel 'Sliplock' bracelet... Imho the term 'rare' is much like 'near mint' and 'like new' when applied to watches. I call it 'rare' only because it is the only example I have seen in 40+ years. It is similar to a Bonklip. You let enough of the clasp cap end of the bracelet out (at the top of the pic) to go over the wrist, then pull it as tight as needed and snap the two pieces of the clasp back together. I made up the term 'Sliplock' years ago. Bonklip... Bopnklip pic from: Bonklip Bracelet - 304L Stainless Steel Watch Band - Adjustable Size (josephbonnie.com)

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Cool!! Sorta reminds me of this... Hamilton prop watch from '2001: A Space Odyssey'. My 'civilian Odyssee'... Hamilton had to spell the name on the watch differently because of copyrights on the film...'2001: A Space Odyssey'. It is in original condition, the case and crystal are fine but the dial is showing its age. Side view... I bought it in February 1990 for $75, not many of them around now. Also have an original Swiss NSA bracelet for it somewhere. Hamilton Odyssee 2001 (Hamilton Cal. 694)… | The Watch Spot (thewatchspotblog.com)

Smokey Blue Autavia

FXD on Bonetto rubber nato

Wearing this today, SS/14K 'DJ'... Quickie 'DJ' project with 'Monarch Polfy' case/dial/hands, ST6D mvt, 14K aftmkt bez, sapphire xtal, all steel bracelet. Recent assembly but all parts are from 15+ years ago. 9-10-22 Same watch with Riyi strap hoods, ZRC Aero strap and high mileage 14K buckle... These hoods are good to use on cases with no serial numbers etc. between the lugs like this one. The crown is genuine! Q...Does it qualify as a Frankenstein? A...No! It's a Fronkensteen!! You do not see many 'Monarch Polfy' cases today...

All 'nos' from about 17 years ago. Watch without bracelet has a 14K aftmkt bezel, sapphire crystal and genuine crown. Others have plated bezels with gold filled (?) center links. The 'Jubilee' bracelets were claimed to have solid 8K middle links but who knows? Some I traded away have been worn 10 or 15 years and the 'gold' center links have no wear through. The bracelets have 'gold' caps soldered on the hoods like genuine, not embossed and plated. Cases will take oem spec crystals, bezels, case tubes/crowns and all the tutone models have Seagull ST6D movements. These watches with the same mid cases and dials were also sold back then with new swiss eta 2836, 14K bezels and center links for $750, 18K trim was $100 more. Solid 14K models were around $3000, 18K was about $500 more. Gold was $400 to $500 Troy oz USD back then compared to $1700+ now. The ST6 cases have plastic movement spacers with no case clamp groove and the swiss eta cases have a groove with case clamps, other than that the mid cases are identical. The watches below were sold for $250 with the 8K center link claim, crystals are MG. Q...How did I end up with them? A...Took them in on a debt. Very Good dials/hands... Also have a box of SS models (pic from a previous post)... Some SS models have ST6, some have NN/DG. The ST6 gets no respect but they are really pretty good movements if not full of dirt or mishandled. They may have been loosely copied from the 1950s A. Schild 1361 and are accurate and reliable, but the a/w assembly is a pain to r/r. They started out as a manual wind lady size movement and the auto wind assembly and larger main plate were added later. ST6... AS 1361... Pic from NAWCC forum.

Just dusted this off from storage.

I've said this all before in bits and pieces. Here it is, all in one spot. All imho. Below is a 'Cliff Notes' version of my experience with 'Quality vs Junk' watch movements and I've had my share of each to say the least. Almost all of the 'Quality' part of the experience was witnessed before I mis-adventured into the wide-wide world of replicas. I have owned many quality genuine mechanical watches including Bulova, Longines, Omega, Mido, Girard Perregaux, Zodiac, Rolex, Patek, V&C, AP, JLC, Cartier, and others. A few had common A Schild, ETA etc. movements, some had modified A/S, ETA etc. while others had 'in house' movements. What brands gave the least trouble? Looking back, I would say Bulova/Longines/Rolex manual wind, and 1530 base automatic Rolex...plus most brands with ETA, A/S etc. Two of my favorites, Zodiac and GP were Ok but their modified A/S movements have overly complicated date works, especially if they have a day and date. Many Bulova models had slightly modified Swiss movements made for Bulova and were easy to work on and find parts. Brands with ETA movements do not give much trouble and when they do need c/o and/or parts, they are easy to work on and parts are easy to find...for now. No doubt the friendly Swatch outfit is trying to cut ETA parts off just like every other swissy NP-FY watch company. I can't really comment on Patek, V&C, Cartier, Patek etc. because I never owned one very long or wore one much at all. I do not want to get stuck with one of these brands with an 'in house' movement needing parts. I could get parts from PP, JLC and a few others in the past but my connections are all long gone along with just about everyone else's connection. My Cartier watches had ETA mechanical movements, ETA 2000 in Tank Franchaise, ETA 2892 in Pasha, and ETA quartz in a Santos. They were all older models and it looks like Cartier has gone 'in house' or using exclusive movements now...anything to keep the $$$ 'in house'. Have a couple quartz Ebel watches needing Cartier type 'in house' movements and I will probably substitute an ETA movement for the 'in house' movement. Already fixed a couple Ebel 'Sport Wave' watches that way and the first one has been running since June 2010. Now for the JUNK: Almost ALL of the JUNK was a replica of some sort with an etaclone or miyaclone movement. Also had some trouble with ST19 Seagull chronographs but not much. Have a few A7750 watches but they are still nos because to tell the truth...I do not have the guts to wear one because I do not want to have to fix it. To be fair, I have had pretty good experience with most of the Miyota clones...Seagull ST16/NN/DG etc, but have had more than a few duds too, mostly assembly mistakes, dry of oil, or dirty. The ST16 is a Miyota/Seiko clone with Miyota type running gear and a version of the Seiko 'Magic Lever' winding system. Most Seagull ST6 autos have been Ok. Parts are not much of a problem for the '21 jewel' clones in general because you can buy another movement for $25/$40 or get needed parts from a 'parts movement'. You are always going to have a few 'parts movements' if you work on this...shall we say it politely, JUNQUE. Never owned any of the current crop of 3135/3235/4130 rolexaclones but from what I have read they are either Ok or NOT Ok off the bat or soon after...many being NOT Ok. When one goes out of whack, parts are a big problem and some who work on them buy high $$ genuine parts to replace defective replica parts, but that runs into a LOT of $$ quickly...plus labor. So...it looks to me like everyone is basically on their own with rolexaclones. I for one do not need the hassle because finding and buying parts to fix a genuine rolex is bad enough. A DJ/OPD/AK/5512-13/1680/16610 etc. with a freshened swisseta 28xx would be a better bet for me. Typos are free.

This is my latest.

Bulova Accutron II 'Moonview' made in 2015, purchased in September 2016 ... I've changed the 3 volt 2016 cell every 2 years and it keeps time within a few seconds a month. No hour wheel trouble...yet. The damage to the plastic hour wheel might happen when the date is changed manually during the time it is getting ready to change on its own...just a guess but I have not heard of a no date Alpha having hour wheel trouble. Bulova stopped selling hour wheels and movements so I bought a 36mm lady style Precisionist for spare parts...same P102 movement, different date wheel and movement spacer. The bezel does not turn on the Moonview. With a GMT hand, rotating 24 hour bezel and screw down back, it would have been a huge hit. Snap backs on 'water resistant' watches should be against the law imho. Mesh bracelet from an eBay seller (20mm) and the clasp from another eBay seller... Mesh bracelets are fine but they are a hassle to cut to size. Have to be careful not to cut the wrong loop or it can ruin the looks. Do not know what the 'Y' stands for...Yet.

Hi guys, it been 7 years since I last visited. Great to see some familiar names and also saddened to hear of passings of some members. Be kind to a new member....

Be sure the screws are tight in the balance bridge.

Finally completed...

Im very sad. Just learned about your dad's passing. The long list of condolences on this thread and the comments about Bob's role in this forum tells it all. He was a great man, who was always there to support the efforts of those who asked about collecting watches or life in general. It will be a hard task to realize that Bob will not be there to reply posts on the forum. Let me just express my deep condolences for your loss David.

I do not know much about these clocks but my Dad carried one similar to it (darker dial color) through WW II in Patton's Third Army...Battle of the Bulge etc. If I can find it, I'll post a pic of it. The Memovox movements in the clocks were in reality wristwatch movements. I had a couple yellow gold filled Memovox watches but sold them 20+ years ago. A friend bought one for $150 about the same time assuming it was yellow gold filled but it turned out to have an 18K case. It came with a steel case back so the alarm would make more noise. I have had this one for many years, an 8 day LeC alarm clock. Had it c/o and a new balance staff in the late 1990s and it still runs fine.

Yes, me too!

Good to see folk returning after a long time away!

No excuse needed. That’s a beauty

Most people have one even if they will not admit it. Here is mine... it is probably 20 years old...a genuine Movado 'Swiss Watch' with HK case and dial. It is on the third or fourth strap and second crystal. Lost count of the batts. Snap back steel case with plated bezel and a low $$ Swiss ETA movement mounted in a plastic spacer. You see them in pawn shops now and then for around $35 or $40.

A real lose in our time, class act all the way. I know a lot in the UK get peeved at the cost of the monarchy but for 70 years of a near perfect figure head for your country worth every shilling & then some.

FXD on Bonetto rubber nato

"Who currently has the best 6538 case?" That is a very good question. Short story: Having owned a genuine 6538 years ago (sold it too soon it turns out), I was not overly impressed with the watch in general when I owned it. Q...Why? A1...It was small and did not look much like a 'submariner'. A2...The 1030 is not one of my favorite movements, I like the 15xx much better. Looking back, I miss the price increase I could have profited from but do not miss the watch at all. With that out of the way... I have seen quite a few 6538 projects and very few appear to be genuine, even at first glance. Some were too big and some just had the wrong 'look'. It's hard to explain but easy to see. Otoh, righteous 5512/5513 project watches seem to be more accurate overall...imho. Still the question remains..."Who has the best 6538 case?" My answer is there is really no correct answer, but my guess is the 'best' 6538 watch will be the result of a very good $$ case with good letters/numbers, spring wire bra$$ bezel, a super fine $$ 'gilt' dial, professional $$ 'ageing', and expert $$ detailing and assembly. If you only want a decent 'knock around' 6538 with an ETA or A21 and a decent dial, the same advice applies, but without the $$ symbols. I know this answer is no help to you, but it is a friendly caution about what lies ahead having chased a few of these dreams/nightmares myself. Hopefully someone who knows more about aftmkt 6538 cases will have a much better answer. Good luck!

Ouch.

By-Tor here (couldn't login with my By-Tor account because it's asking email address and can't remember which one I used to create it). I'm really, really sorry to hear that. And surprised too. What I remember from pictures he was a healthy looking man. RIP Nanuq.

I can do any vintage no dater (build and lume) and will post later in the sales section the surplus i have for sale

Traded two DateJust watches and added some cash to get this. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Old faithful 21 years with me... very comfortable on rubber!

Let me post a picture of mine.

Wow, what stunning watches!! If you plan on doing a proper 6536 (ie not a 6536/1 that has the bigger 27.7mm dial) and get a great 6538 dial, maybe we can swap dials in the end Aftermarket dome - at least some years back the CWP T19 was a good option.

hello, this is my first oyster project 😅 these are the pieces that I have compiled, they are adjusted in budget but I think it can look good... first assembly without crown because the stem is very long and I have to cut it I had trouble putting the needles (my eyes get worse with age ) Also leave without putting the screws that hold the movement to the box ... any advice is welcome