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  1. 4 points
    This seems appropriate for this day.
  2. 4 points
  3. 4 points
  4. 3 points
    Man I keep stopping by to look at this watch I love it!
  5. 3 points
    Thank you for your service, and sacrifice. https://www.youtube.com/embed/uoABty_zE00?rel=0
  6. 3 points
    You are soooooo Wrong. Just because we Europeans are all 'friends' again does not mean we do not remember or pay our respects. My Great Great Uncle died in WW1. My Grandfather fought in WW2. Today, at work, we commemorated Armistice Day. Everyone stopped work at 11:00am for 2 minutes silence. Having served in the armed forces with people who have lost friends and comrades in conflicts, I feel duty bound to speak on their behalf. Today I watched Black Adder 4 - a (very) British comedy about WW1. Even that brought a tear to my eye.
  7. 3 points
  8. 3 points
    I dont know which case from phong you are looking at. If you call him and just ask for a case you will get a case that looks like crap. That is the thing about phong and they it is so expensive. You call him and send him a picture of the case and the year you are looking for and he matches it perfectly. On 4 or 5 digit cases. Why spend $1000 on a case that looks like crap. On my 1680 I wanted a chunky flat crown guards to match the late 70's 1680 because that was the dial I had, a MKII whitey. The problem is in a statement like yours, is, and please do not take offense too it, is that you have no idea what a rolex submariner is. There is no such thing as crown guard profile an bottom. Each case is different and each year and depending on how many times it was serviced and polished changes it. There are chunky crown guards and skinny and pointy and flat and angled. Best thing too do is grab a picture of the watch you want and contact Jensen or his father Phong and send them the exact case you want. You are paying for it. I have done this about 10 times with them and only returned one case because the SEL didn't fit properly. It was corrected and a new case was sent to me in 3 days. This is how I would make a watch. Find the dial you are looking for. I actually made my dads 5513 and never get the right dial. I had the year of his watch and the serial number. When he died his watch disappeared. But his watch was the last of the meters first dial. It was a 1968. That year the case had very weird middle thickness crown guards. I took a picture of the case from The Rolex Submariner Story of a 1968 submariner. I gave them the serial number of the watch and I got back an amazing case. I got a 1520 and I couldn't find the right dial in good condition. I got a reprint but it was never right. So on my 1680 I found the dial first. It was a beautiful whitey dial. I got Mike to get me set of Rolex Tritium hands for the 1680. I got every part for the crystal and crystal ring and bezel original Rolex. I sent Jensen a picture of the late 70's 1680 sub with the chunky crown guards. He asked me if I wanted it to look in new condition, used, serviced, I picked used but never sent to service. (Just in case I want to change or polish the case at a later date). I got a perfect copy of the case I sent him. Crown guards and lugs. So to make a blanket statement that THEY CANT GET THE CROWN GUARD PROFILE CORRECT, just means you are referring to their stock case, and the year you have in mind. It is simple. So I dont know Cartel watches. To me they are nice $300 copies which I can spot sitting at a table in seconds. I believe that Cartel are all in the same exact case type. They are all the same as far as crown guards and so on. Rolex has never done that because they are hand made and hand worked cases in the 60-70's and each are different. Cartel watches look amazing for a nice everyday beater. Polish it up and buff out the crystal and the watch looks like new. The movement craps out you buy a 20-30 dollar 21J and throw it in. But there are tons of give aways like the bezel. But once you start to put all rolex parts on the watch the price goes through the roof. That is why I like to start with a case that I can grow with. A case that if I want to later on down the line I can put a real rolex movement in it and real rolex dial and bezel and so on. I have seen Cartel cases worked on. There are a lot of threads on RWI and Repgeek and even here, of taking a Cartel and working it. The case comes out amazing. A good watch maker does wonders! Good luck.
  9. 3 points
  10. 3 points
    I finally got in some 2824 16200 cases, it was a really long wait as they have been unavailable since about Feb of this year! Dimensionally these appear to be the same although the machining tolerances were not as tight as older batches. Progress, right? I snapped some pics of the steps these go through to make 1016 cases although I forgot to take a pic of the rough machined case before drilling any holes. I start out with a plain "vintage" style 16200 case They then spend some time on a little CNC lathe I built and get the tops of the lugs machined to give them a thinner profile. You notice the burr left side of the lug top. All of these burrs have to be removed by hand with a file and sanding. After they come off the lathe they head to the mill where the lug get "ventilated. I set up on the right, drill hole, rotate case 180 degrees and drill another hole. When they are all done I set up on the left and repeat the process for the remainder of the holes. When this is finished I finish de-burring the case, brush the lug tops, and it's ready for either a polished or aged finish. Here is a comparison between the original and re-shaped cases. I hope this sheds a little light on the process.
  11. 3 points
  12. 3 points
    “The Dark Side of the Force is the pathway to many abilities some consider to be.... Unnatural” Senator Palpatine Tell me again, which nation was it that invented the concept of mass production of horological fakes? 🇨🇭 Many of us own and appeciate the genuine, but this hobby teaches one to appreciate more of the detail of genuine watches than a lifetime of collecting gens ever would. Besides which I have met far more genuine people and made more real friends here on the dark side than I have in all the gen forums I frequent
  13. 3 points
    My old man has always told me if I can’t get the real thing don’t get it at all. Him being an avid collector. Since joining this forum I have been showing him the quality of the watches you boys are turning out and modding! Long story short I’ve just showed him this post, he loves the Watch, and has just brought one! 😂 he’s come to the dark side enjoy the Watch!
  14. 3 points
  15. 3 points
    Hommage to the next Phillip's Auction, and the beautiful 6200 to be sold there, here is my interpretation of 6200:
  16. 3 points
  17. 3 points
    While I was waiting for my invoice for the 2836 cases I got an e-mail from my case supplier and he said he had 2824 cases for me!!! I have ordered a bunch of them...
  18. 2 points
  19. 2 points
    Somehow I’m guessing a guy who drops money on that watch already has the mortgage paid off and a few toys stashed away
  20. 2 points
    I'm the inexperienced one and I like the long serving members help... Nice to be here. Thank you guys.
  21. 2 points
  22. 2 points
    Very selfish Bart.. Haha.. It's been amazing what you have shared so far! Sorry for the delay, I'm going to Vietnam in Jan so I should be able to source you some plain dial plates if you still need them. Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk
  23. 2 points
    Wow that came out nice!!
  24. 2 points
  25. 2 points
    These things can be chameleons at times!
  26. 2 points
    I like it here...not sayin' anything...thanks! B
  27. 2 points
    "Isn't this forum the best?" Well of course it is. The tempered mannerisms of well grounded members, the lack of back stabbing and witch hunts make it a great place for both inexperienced and long serving members alike.
  28. 2 points
    Well fellas...she's done!! Well almost. A few tweaks left yet but overall I am quite pleased with how it turned out [emoji1303][emoji1303] A few pics and I will update you guys a bit later. Enjoy [emoji4] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  29. 2 points
    @occb2 a very informed and informative post as usual. It’s always a pleasure to see you here
  30. 2 points
    Fluffy you know I know the whole story therefore you are welcome here.
  31. 2 points
    PAM 360 On Simona Mosaic Gold Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk
  32. 2 points
  33. 2 points
    Friday .... Genday Verzonden vanaf mijn iPad met Tapatalk Pro
  34. 2 points
    JF 15400 V-2 with profsteve [emoji108] Verzonden vanaf mijn iPad met Tapatalk Pro
  35. 2 points
  36. 2 points
    I have a legitimate 1958 Submariner and it's well worn. I built its big brother from the same era, and over two years' time I nearly have the patina to where it looks almost sorta the same-ish, kinda, a little bit if you close one eye. The eye is incredibly astute and it picks up fake wabi instantly. If you got it, keep it!
  37. 2 points
    The diver reps, both stainless steel and forged carbon, and even the ceramic, have been touted as the best out of the box AP reps in the hobby. And yes, that is true if you look at the number of flaws in the ROO chronograph series. But yet, closely replicated as they are, flaws still exist in the diver reps. For the sake of brevity, let us run through the list of flaws Movement: The previous generation of reps uses the A2824 movement, which beats at 28800bph, but is better and more reliable than the current generation of miyota powered replicas. Miyotas can be noisy when the watch is shaken, and cheap looking/sounding. However they are fairly reliable too, and easily replaced. The gen uses a low beat 21600bph caliber 3120 AP movement. The beat difference is hardly noticeable on the wrist between 28800bph and 21600bph unless you have them side and side, and scrutinize closely. The beat of the rep movement can be modded to 21600bph as well. Dial The gen diver dial is glossy and more intricate in details, and the rep is somewhat glossed over, but not to the same extent. The difference is hardly noticeable again, but the rep dial can be gloss-finished by hand to look like the gen. Of course, dial print is sharper on the genuine diver, but not by much compared with the V7 diver. Inner dive bezel For the stainless steel, the lume construction for the numbers are significantly different, and this is a noticeable difference once pointed out to someone. For the FC, the numbers on the inner bezel are closer to genuine. Hands There is a slight difference between the shine and finish of the genuine hands vs the replica ones. But not enough to warrant any modification. Datewheel The genuine watch (before the i series) uses a serif font which the Noob (first v4 batch and earlier) replicates well. The font is nonetheless slightly smaller than the gen one. This can be fixed by installing an aftermarket datewheel. Case construction No significant difference between gen and rep here for the recent models. Any perceivable difference would not be something you can spot on the wrist. The rep FC case can be polished and buffed a little to look better, but not necessarily closer to gen. The FC material is rather organic, and each case looks different from the rest. I have seen a variety of finishes for the genuine FC cases. The glossed up pictures on the internet makes us all paranoid at times, but if you have a chance to take a look at FC case finishing on the genuine, you will be surprised at how flat (little or no marbling) some will look. Bezel screws It is a myth that bezel screws on the genuine diver are always sunken and aligned. This is not true at all, I have seen genuine divers that look otherwise. The bezel screws on the replica can be carefully aligned, polished and sunken evenly for aesthetic purposes. Crystal Bear in mind, that the gen comes with a single AR crystal. Applying double AR on a replica does enhance the look of the dial, but does not make it more accurate looking. This is a personal choice for the owner, and nothing right or wrong about it. Straps The rep rubber straps are decent, but with the host of aftermarket straps available, many choices are available at the owner's disposal. So when one mentions "best diver that money can buy", it is subjective to each owner with regards to what "best" means. Here is a fully modded diver. I’ve converted it from a miyota movement to an ETA low beat one and retained the hands. Notice the dial finish, the case finish and the datewheel. I consider this a reasonable rendition of the stainless steel diver without going franken or gen. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  38. 2 points
  39. 2 points
    I ran across a piece I've never heard of, the Emmegi SeaMagnum 300. What caught my eye was the near exact copy of a Doxa SUB 300, with some significant differences. I know the Jenny story and all the spun-off parts to Squale, Auricoste, Spirotechnique and Doxa of course. But this one is different. Think Blancpain FF Barakuda meets Berios Squale Master meets Omega SM300. But this sultry beauty wears a 19mm BOR bracelet, and her dimensions are a couple percent smaller all around than a Doxa 300 of the era, although the parts and construction are otherwise identical. Gorgeous, and elusive. I googled a long time and the only history I can find is this one watch. With this build quality and attention to detail, there's got to be more to the story. I've got time and a search engine. Until then, here are a few shots. The dial is absolutely pristine but has a rough texture. Today I figured that out... she's reflective over the entire orange surface. I've never seen that before either. What an obscure beauty.
  40. 2 points
  41. 2 points
    Ditto Ditto Ditto (search out 'Mr. Slimeball' for details). As for dials, hands and casebacks, unfortunately, after the movement, those are the most costly components. If you have the cash, only a gen dial would do. If you spend alot on an aftermarket dial, eventually, you will end up having wasted that money when you end up biting the bullet & replacing it with a gen (by which time will cost 200% more than it will cost today). Same with hands, which can often be found on ebay or the vintagerolexforum sales pages. For a caseback, due to the scarcity/cost of a gen, I think your best bet is simply to purchase a good rep with a caseback that is made to gen specs. Alternatively, you can try either Phong or Yuki, because they used to offer gen-sized backs. However, be prepared to pay handsomely for them. For that reason, especially since a Sub caseback is a plain-Jane affair that is very difficult to ID on an otherwise gen-looking watch, I think the rep caseback is the way to go.
  42. 2 points
    Hey Mike! Glad to see you back my friendYou always do great reviews and I've bought a couple of watches because of them. Glad life is treating you well. Thanks for sharing and staying in touch. I'd love to see your review on the new ARF Daytona Enjoy to the max!
  43. 2 points
  44. 2 points
    @jaye I have just deleted your last post, evidently you did not read and comply with my previous post. <—SEE THIS Any of the members will tell you I do not throw my weight around, but if you take a moment to read the forum rules instructions from Mods are not to be ignored. Noobfactory is a scam site, you got scammed by a scammer, part of the reason you got scammed is that you did not do your homework This is the final Cease and Desist you will get. Take notice now and you are still welcome in our community, continue to ignore and you will not be
  45. 2 points
  46. 2 points
    So I fitted a t39 to my 5513 today, no distortion on the edges /rehaut like I had with the Clark's t19, it's a bit tall but it's a really tight fit and passed pressure testing with flying colours, Sent from my Lenovo P2a42 using Tapatalk
  47. 2 points
    Jlc nsd today in Storm Brian. Back garden. Sent from my SM-A300FU using Tapatalk
  48. 2 points
    Tribute to 1931 Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk
  49. 2 points
  50. 2 points
    Thank you is there a website for Dung’s Dials? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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