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Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/04/2021 in all areas

  1. The glory days of vintage Rolex sportwatch franken-building are definitely history. But I disagree that Rolex movements are inherently problematic, or more so than ETAs and other modern mechanics. Properly assembled and maintained, Rolex calibers are nearly bulletproof. That is one of the reasons they remain so highly valued by collectors and watchmakers alike. I do not have a single gen Rolex movement that I have serviced that has either failed or not generally met its time-keeping design specs. And I believe some of them are now hitting the 20-year mark for wrist- &/or winder-time, if my
    3 points
  2. I am wearing the 'Dweller today, but I think I am going to switch to this tomorrow.........
    2 points
  3. That’s right, today is the day, starting with one lonely man and some bulletin board software we’ve grown into the most educated and knowledgeable watch forum on the Web. Tens of thousands of members and accumulated centuries of experience... I’m proud to be part of this place we call 127.0.0.1 Congratulations RWG!!!
    2 points
  4. How about white & black?
    1 point
  5. Thank you, it's working again. Regards from Germany cosmic2000
    1 point
  6. Amen to that. A gentleman and philanthropist with a rapier sharp wit. Our current generations could learn a lot by emulating his.
    1 point
  7. It wouldn't work for a 5508 since the 5508 was rated 100m/330ft. It is correct for an early 5512 with the gilt printing, and the SWISS only at the bottom of the dial. The 200m=660ft in white is also ok, I believe. You might want to check the history of the the glossy finish, but I think it's ok. Of course a 60 year old dial may have well lost it's glossy finish by now. I do know that early 5512 dials didn't have the SCOC print often times so that part is ok. With a little bit of judicious aging, that could be a nice dial in a 5512.
    1 point
  8. "Before doing anything, I would post good clear pics of said dials. You may be fretting over nothing, or the pics might inspire the right solution." Very good advice. The dial markers on my 'shortcut 1655' seemed to be a little too dark. So I fixed it. How? By looking at pictures of 1655 watches until I found a few just like mine. I can only hope they were genuine and not replickas. I understand colors may be off a little on 'net pics but I'm willing to be at peace with the dial now.
    1 point
  9. You are very welcome. I am glad you found the info useful. Back in the day, RWG really was THE central repository of cutting-edge watchmaking creativity. Unfortunately, as is often the case, that creativity was eclipsed by its own success as many of the labor-intensive, community-aided technological breakthroughs eventually trickled down into many of the average reps you can buy today. There was alot of talent -- much of which was spurred on by the very competitive nature of the no-nonsense engineering wizards RWG attracted back then.
    1 point
  10. The crown cap actually unscrews from the piston. If you remove the winding stem & clamp the piston in a pin vice, you can unscrew the cap. This is generally done to replace a broken crown spring or piston clutch ring (if the crown spins free when winding, it may be due to the inner flats of the clutch ring being rounded). I posted an illustrated tutorial on the process many years ago that you may be able to search out. Found it! Click me
    1 point
  11. Like you, I have been out of the game for some time, so I cannot definitely answer your question. However, have you educated yourself as to what makes a gen 6542? Can you tell the difference between a gen & an average rep copy? Do you know what to look for? How much does cost affect your decision making (are you more budget-conscious or more of a well-heeled neurotic-perfectionist)? Have you perused RWG's Watches section to see if any of the recommended dealers offer a rep that does not offend your senses too much (no rep or franken is perfect)? Posting with an indication that
    1 point
  12. I found this fantastic image but it doesn't really how how the larger tube in installed on the crown. It says the smaller part (piston clutch ring) is soldered to the sleeve of the crown. But it doesn't say how the largest tube on the crown is secured to the crown. Is that larger part pressed fit, soldered, or screwed in?
    1 point
  13. I have no direct, hands-on experience with Dark Lord dials, but if the OEM printing is removed from a gen dial, then, according to Rolex (they make the rules), it is no longer a gen dial, at least for the purposes of resale or provenance, regardless of how well the aftermarket printing may be. So I would have no problem removing the dial feet if that makes it easier to complete a project with a credible-looking dial. In my experience, Phong's cases are variable, sometimes gen parts fit, sometimes not. That said, if you are competent with a dremel, you can usually (not always) ma
    1 point
  14. INSERTS OF ROLEX AND TUDOR DIVING WATCHES OF THE ROLEX ACRYLIC ERA researched and written by Xeramic, on VintageRolexForum © 2021, all rights reserved 1 INTRODUCTION 2 SIDE EFFECT 3 THE MAKING-OF 4 LEVEL OF DETAIL 5 MISPRINTS 6 COLOR AND SURFACE VARIATIONS 7 DIMENSIONS 8 SPOTTING THE VERSIONS 9 NUMBERING OF THE VERSIONS 10 VERSIONS 11 BACKS AND BORDERS 12 LUME PEARLS 13 HOW TO USE 14 A WORD ABOUT FAKES 15 FINAL NOTES 1 INTRODUCTION This is an in-depth article about the contemporary bezel inserts of Rolex and Tudor diving watches of the Rolex acrylic era (so, up
    1 point
  15. I know $5,000 sounds like a lot of money. But it's barely scratching the surface to get a reasonably good franken. Mine is based on a MQ case (yes he was a major PITA to work with) and runs an ETA 2846 movement. In rough terms: Case $1,000 Crystal $700 - $1,000 (gen T17 Superdome) Bezel $350 Insert $300 (rep) $2,000 (MKIII gen) Crown $800 Tube $200 Band $250 (rep Yuki) $2,500 (gen) Dial $1,000 (MQ) Hands $300 (rep) $1,000 (gen) You're already into it for $6,700 plus and that's with
    1 point
  16. I will recommend the new JF V10. The dive bezel ring from the new ZF is superb and for the visually perfect diver, plug that ring into the JF and you are good to go. I think Legend is still working on APs yes.
    1 point
  17. Freddie, thank you. That polishing block is what I am after. Since I have an extra rep 116710 bracelet I can practice on that.
    1 point
  18. The simplest method (assuming you are asking because you do not have a proper polishing machine) is to tape off the polished sections you do NOT want brushed & use a Bergeon 5444-A (fine) polishing block to apply an OEM-style satin texture. By-Tor & I posted separate threads detailing the process on Oyster & Jubilee bracelets, but that was many years ago & I do not know if they are still on the site.
    1 point
  19. Great to see some of the old-timers still ticking....especially glad to see that Stephane's made it back to health. Life throws many curveballs, but time seems to keep us marching on.
    1 point
  20. "I have a dream that my four little children will one day live in a nation where they will not be judged by the color of their skin but by the content of their character." —King
    1 point
  21. I thought I'd try the Maranez on a Beads of Rice band. Wow! I'm in love.
    1 point
  22. Added 3-27-21: From: Where to get a case to fit a Yuki 3135 - The Rolex Area - RWG Question: "I have a Yuki 3135 movement in good shape and I'm entertaining the idea of building a watch around it." "In particular I keep seeing that a 3135-style movement will not fit into a case intended for a 2824 or similar ETA movement, which is what most of the stock out there apparently is geared towards." There are basically two variations of 36mm DJ type cases floating around: 1...Common cases made for swiss ETA 2836 and 2836 etaclones and/
    1 point
  23. Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk
    1 point
  24. Modded, reshaped VN midcase and CB, movement is a rebuilt ETA CO7.111 to remove the date function and drilled mainplate in order to keep the dialfeets untouched. Rest is gen.
    1 point
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