Jump to content

All Activity

This stream auto-updates

  1. Today
  2. Yesterday
  3. I've been in the same boat. Communication hasn't been slow per se. But I've had some very poor watches up for QC and the TD actually got annoyed that I was concerned with rehaut alignment or scratches on bezel. I think it's the factories that are trying to keep off the radar and being constipated with their comms and product. This in turn is putting pressure on TDs who are the meat in the sandwich.
  4. Last week
  5. After my fiasco with the 'shortcut 1655' I wondered if it was really worth it. Turns out it probably was. Q...How did I come to that conclusion? A...You can see for yourself below: I figured it cost me between $2500 and $3000 for the SC 1655 so I went to eBay and looked up a few 1655 watches that sold May through July 2021. Here are the figures: May, June, July, 2021, Rolex 1655 sold: $29101.00 + $11.10 shp 124 bids $36999.00 + $200 shp Best Offer Accepted ($28,000 my guess) $20,957.00 57 bids Free shipping $24,950.00 or Best Offer Accepted Free shipping ($22,000 my guess) $19,975.00 2 bids + $8.25 shipping $15,000.00 2 bids + $17.82 shipping I had to make guesses on the best offer accepted on the two priced at $36,000 and $24,950. All the watches added together = $135,033USD Shipping on them all added together = $237.17 rounded off to $240 for an average of $40 each. Add the shipping to the watches and it comes out to $135,270USD rounded off. I added the shipping to equal it out because free shipping on two and $200 on one was such a wide margin. I am guessing the $200 shipping was lowered on the BIN for $36K watch but there is no way to know. This is an average of $22,500USD each rounded off...but they are all supposedly genuine. Mine is not except for most of the movement parts. So...the next step is to see how much it would cost to stick a 'mostly genuine' 1655 together using eBay, watch show, internet etc parts. Some eBay 1655/GMT parts from the same time period: Ratty trit dial $1527.00 + $50 shpping 20 bids. Good trit dial $2,004.19 Buy It Now + $16.59 shipping. Movement for 1655/1675 ask $4500 + $80 shp from Japan OBO. Best offer accepted, maybe $4000 or so? Full set of hands: $1,380.82 Or Best Offer + $20.73 shp. NOS $1450 bin free shp. The parts prices above are examples from eBay and I would guess you might find a complete 1575 GMT movement for around $3500 if you searched one out. If you bought a 1575 date movement for $2500 and added the needed GMT parts it might cost more than $3500 because the parts are so hard to find. My guess on parts prices to stick one together using a Vn case and genuine parts (except for the bracelet): Case...$700, my guess, someone chime in if they know. High grade replica oyster bracelet, hoods, and spring bars...$275. Movement...$3500. Genuine dial...$2000. Genuine hands...$1200. Genuine case tube and crown...$125. No labor added. Total = $7800. Why not a genuine bracelet? Since the case is a replica, a replica bracelet just makes more sense (to me anyway). Total = around $7800. Not bad compared to $22,500 average for a genuine model from eBay...while remembering that 'High Line' internet/watch show dealers will charge a lot more if they can get it. The ONLY differences between the replica and a genuine example are the case and bracelet. No doubt the exact same 'project watches' are selling as ' guaranteed 100% genuine' for $25K+ with a genuine bracelet and 'expert ageing' being the only major differences. So...The Conclusion I came to in my little pointy head is: 1...A genuine 1655 case is 'worth' $15,000 to $20,000. Hell-o-fuzzy! Since I only wanted the 'SC 1655' to wear now and then, having $3000 in it is basically a bargain in today's Wacky Watch World. FYI...if I stuck my all genuine 1575 GMT movement (low mileage 1575 hack + nos oem GMT parts) in my Phong case with a pretty good aftmkt dial/hands/bracelet, it would probably cost between $4500 and $5000. Some GMT 1675 and 1655 movement + 'shortcut 1655' info: Building an MBW Sub + 'shortcut' rlx 1560/70 GMT conversions... - Page 2 - The Rolex Area - RWG GMT conversion parts needed from: Cal. 1570 GMT- tell me if I m wrong ? - The Rolex Area - RWG Here is most of what is needed to convert a 1565/75 to a 1565/75 GMT: #8038 - center second pinion 5.70mm #8037 - Cannon Pinion 3.39mm #8039 - double tooth hour wheel 2.44mm #8040 - 24hr wheel 1.41mm #8035 - Calendar Wheel nut #8036 - Date Jumper #8006 - Yoke for cam #8008 - spring for cam yoke #8011 - stud for cam #8030 - Center wheel with Cannon Pinion #8034 - Calendar Wheel #8011 - Stud for Cam #7965 - calendar spacer Q...What is hard to find? A...All of it. Q...What is almost impossible to find? A: #7965 - calendar spacer #8034 - Calendar Wheel #8039 - double tooth hour wheel 2.44mm 7965 usually goes from $200 to $500 8034 usually $200 to $400 8039 used to be $200 or so...now close to $500 8034 calendar wheel aka 'date flipper' on eBay a few months back for $965 (!!) They must be getting hard to find too. 8036 date jumper currently on eBay (7-27-21 item 184060183308) for $389 + $20 shipping This is the part that centers the date wheel in the window and keeps it in place, last one I bought new was $38 iirc.
  6. That one was really beautiful, congrats ....
  7. OK gents although CDC and NHS have note updated the symptoms for the new Delta COVID strain (80% more transmissible then Kent!) they are different. Watch: I have cut you in at the info to save time. If you look at new symptoms we would have just about anyone w/ allergies a cold and such getting tested and out of work that is why CDC & NHS are not updating IMHO. Be careful out there......................
  8. And again today! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. Hello everyone, I am new here, I was looking for the best quality of Rolex GMT-Master II Batman. Can the experienced people help me through whom I can order it of the best quality and minimal difference with the original. Thanks in advance!
  10. Titanium Chrono Avenger today Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. It is not rocket science. geometry has no secrets. i redesigned and printed using an MBW dial window position and recentering numerals according to the partition of a circle in 31 axis. did the same vertically so every numeral is fitted within the regular window opening. Disk has an od of 23mm and id of 15 and print is done in silver vinyl film sticker to allow repositioning without glue and a minimal thickness for overhead.
  12. Going with the Blood Diamond Chrono Avenger today. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. wanted to report back for future reference. it was much easier than i expected. here's a pic of the tools i used and the finished job. i removed 2 links, one on each side. it's not perfect, but i think it was a pretty clean job. here are the steps i used. - use the pin pusher tool to insert it in the gap between the links, like you would if you were to push out pins. - when inserted, use the pin pusher tool to pry it up a little whilst inserting the bezel removal tool from the top view. the bezel removal tool has a fine enough tip for you to easily push it in. when inserted enough, you will have enough leverage for you to use the bezel removal tool to slightly pry it open even more. - when there is enough space, use a pair of fine needle nose pliers (i used xuron's fine nose smooth pliers) to open it even more. at this point, it's very easy to open the mid link. you just need very little force and fine tinkering to get it open enough for you to remove the whole link. the trick here is to open it enough so that the single link you're trying to remove can move 90 degrees from the bracelet (the mid link is opened at about 30 degrees). - to close it up, wrap the bracelet with a cloth and use a pair of stronger pliers to crimp it down. i hope this helps anyone in the future :). also, this was a cartel 7836 bracelet. looks like it's the same as mary's. not sure if i want to replace the figure 8 connecting link. that one looks to be a little more challenging.
  1. Load more activity
  • Create New...