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  3. "...been looking for the best possible looking base Rolex GMT ll that's reliable." I am not very familiar with later models of rolex but am familiar with etaclones and China GMT conversions. Cases, bracelets, and dials do not cause much trouble so movement reliability is the main concern. China etaclones are Ok if you get a good one to begin with. One good thing about them is you can swap out the etaclone for a swiss ETA if or when the etaclone gives out. Today's China GMT conversions are generally Ok but earlier examples with adjustable 24H hands might not be as good. Basic etaclone GMT rule...the less you adjust the 24H hand, the better off you will be. The China GMT conversion should work on a swiss ETA when/if the time comes to swap the movement out. Maybe someone with more experience with these movements will post some info.
  4. The real is fine with everything. The fake, with everyone.
  5. Hi guys I purchased a Tag Aquaracer calibre 5 from Andrew @ trusty time a few months ago and I'm very happy with the watch. The only thing that I would like to improve is the quality of the numbers and pearl on the bezel. I'm absolutely new to horology, so wondered if somebody would point me in the right direction to a) purchase a new bezel insert and b) perhaps a good tutorial on how to carry the swap out? I've added an image of the watch for reference. Thanks in advance Best, Andy
  6. I have purchased a SSD and 3.5 frame which I can mount inside, and not worry about removing the screen again, I have had to buy replacement sticky strips for refitting the screen too.
  7. great info mate, thanks for sharing
  8. Sod that! Get a decent size external SSD drive, plug it in and boot from that. Set it up as your primary drive and never have to worry about getting inside your Mac. Good luck, mate. Hard drive failures are a real pain.
  9. Copied from my post in my section on Repgeek yesterday morning.. Hi guys, awoke this morning to a none responsive iMac, tried everything but nothing works, and what research I've done all points to HDD failure. My hard drive cannot be found at all, so cannot even boot up, or reinstall odd Currently researching how to swap my HDD and it looks scarry as I need to pry the 27" screen to gain access. I'm still reachable via email, but bare with me as I'm having to work from my phone. See more here... https://www.repgeek.com/ssteel-watch-repairs/309105-hard-drive-failure.html
  10. Yesterday
  11. That is a bit strange, not that I didn't know about it just strange to see.
  12. "And yet the value of vintage rolexes is still quite strong even at the lower end where I generally hunt." Agree. I have snagged a few pretty good rolex buys in the last few years but they were not mainstream models. One was a gold top 6694, one was a manual wind no date model, and one was an older 17 jewel (1520) 5500 AK. Otoh I looked on eBay at sold 6694 just now and they are going for around $1100 to $2500 so that's not too bad at the lower end of the prices. I paid $500 for the gold top 6694 and the owner threw some other watchjunk in with the deal so I ended up with about $400 in it but it needs a case tube, crown, crystal, and clean/oil etc = about $500 when finished with crystal, gaskets, spring bars, strap, buckle, ST case tube, swiss Générale Ressorts mainspring, and a good used crown, c/o is free. It probably sold for $250 or less when new. Gold top vintage rolex watches were said to have around 80 microns of gold on top of the case and the bezels were solid gold, usually 14k. The gold case top was a gold cap soldered on the steel case similar to heavy gold fill...you can see the edge of the gold cap on the bottom of the cases. They seem to hold up for many years with no wear through unless some Gomer buffs the gold off the case. A lot of older watches had 20 microns of gold plating on the case, a few were 40 microns, and watches with heavy plating usually have the thickness stamped on them somewhere. Today the better brands are usually 10 microns or less and some cheaper brands are 'flash plated'...you can rub the plating off with a Fabulustre polishing cloth in two or three swipes. Here is a 40 micron rolex case: http://www.passions.com.sg/v2/watch/rolex-30mm-c1960s-oysterdate-precision-ref6466-yellow-gold-40microns-plated High quality Générale Ressorts mainsprings come in many swiss watch brands. A few US GR mainspring suppliers: Cas-Ker Inc Esslinger And Co Jules Borel & Co Otto Frei Some may market them under a supply house brand or other brand name.
  13. eBay POS for when I’m decorating (like now!).
  14. Generally a full wind will be 50 turns. However, even at 1/2 wind the rotor should keep it running. Probably a weak main spring or a defective rotor. Good luck
  15. And yet the value of vintage rolexes is still quite strong even at the lower end where I generally hunt. If it wasn't for guys like you and Misiek I probably wouldn't collect those either!l Regards, Rick
  16. Ceramic Diver with the "extras" Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk
  17. "...I'm always amazed about your knowledge of cases and movements Rick!" Thanks, I appreciate it! The bottom line (imho) is the 40+ year accumulation of 'useless knowledge' gained from my watch hobby is really not worth much in today's world outside of this and similar forums. The mechanical watch seems to be going the way of the dinosaur as the current generation shuns traditional watches for I-phones and smart watches in their early $$ earning years. Maybe mechanical and/or vintage watches will catch on later in life but who knows? By then they may really cost a fortune. As for younger 'watch nuts' wanting to go into the repair trade, things are not rosy at all as the 'Big Name Brand' watch repair business is swinging toward 'corporate watch repair' as can be seen by the latest rolex move to cut off parts to almost all of the remaining independent US repair shops that work on rolex watches. Since most brands have already gone or are in the process of going this route, repair guys will have to go corporate, go AD, or go independent and swap out batteries and quartz movements to pay the rent while searching for mechanical watch repair parts. Forums like this one are unique because a large percentage of members know a lot about watches in general where the average 'brand forum member' usually only knows a little about certain watch brands...mostly reference numbers, movement caliber designations, and production dates, along with their most important questions of all...What's New? Are they available yet? Who has one? How much are they? Everyone wants a rolex but almost everyone wears a Timex. (or Citizen/Seiko/Fossil etc)
  18. Last week
  19. But you will still be in that rarefied 5%, I'm always amazed about your knowledge of cases and movements Rick! Cheers, Rick
  20. Random '1016' movement/case combo Q & A from messages and posts: Q...On mounting of the gen 1570 on the 2824 case in terms of diameter it works, but not sure about the height. A...The distance from the stem center line to the dial is the critical measurement...then add the thickness of the dial. Most genuine vintage rlx dials are .40mm plus or minus, replica dials may be a little bit less. Q...Is there a specific spacer that assures a correct placement of the movement or is it trial and error? A...In the projects I have done using an aftmkt 15xx rlx case with a rlx 15xx movement, I did not need a spacer IF the case is made for a date or no date movement and that is what you are putting in it. You can read about using a spacer between the movement and dial on MBK 55xx/1680 cases when using a no date rlx 15xx movement above. An RWG friend (Stilty, from Canada) had some special ETA to rlx case spacers CNC machined about 10 years ago and later Yuki had the same type of spacer made and they are still available. Q...Do you always have to use the stamped metal dial spacer on ETA's when it has nothing to do with spacing the dial away from the date wheel? A...The spacer is needed to level the dial. I stuck an ETA 2836 with 26.0mm dial without the calendar spacer in a Yuki '5513' OEM spec case and the stem does not line up. A little better without the spacer but not much. Besides that, the dial flops around on the movement because the spacer also holds the dial level. in cases made for a 15xx movement, I needed an OD type spacer to fit an ETA 28xx movement in the case because an ETA movement is 11.5 ligne size and a 15xx rlx is 12.5 ligne size (1 ligne = 2.2558291 mm). I make spacers out of brass flat washers on a lathe and cut them to fit the movement OD and case ID. Some standard brass cartel watch spacers will do the job. I also make some of the spacers with a shoulder that comes up higher than the movement plate so I can stick the dial to the spacer when using dials made for rlx movements without dial feet and do away with the flimsy stamped metal ETA spacer. Fyi...I bought a nos Eta 2879 day/date movement and it has the calendar spacer made on the movement plate, not a sheet metal spacer. They will work in cases made for Eta 2836/46 and have the 21600 beat rate that is close to the rolex 1520/1570 19800 bph...but they are not good for 5512/13 projects in genuine spec cases because they will be too thick like an ETA 2836/46. Imho, most cartel DJ 16200 type cases are better suited to ETA 36mm DJ/modern sapphire explorer etc. projects than '1016' projects especially if they do not have 'through and through' lug holes because lug holes are very hard to get right when drilling them in blind lugs. When using cartel cases you can also have trouble fitting a 2836 in a case made for a 2824 or putting a 2824 in a 2836 case...plus drilling lug holes. I did a '1016' project using an early genuine rlx 162xx case with a 1570 and it turned out pretty good and although the case is not exactly 1016 spec, it is very high quality and looked fine. There is also plenty of metal around the lug holes to drill the holes to 1.25 or 1.3mm without getting too close to an edge like some of the cartel cases. A genuine rlx 160xx case might be closer to a 1016 than a 162xx case but you would probably need to use a calendar spacer etc. like with an MBK 55xx/1680 case when using a rlx 15xx movement. I never tried it so I do not know for sure. I still have my JMB '1016' with a combo 2824/2836 movement and it has been fine. The combo movement I put together seems to run Ok but like all ETA movements in my experience it needs more active wear to keep the running reserve up compared to a rlx 15xx movement. I drilled/tapped the JMB case to put a standard 6.0mm case tube in it so it would accept a standard 6.0mm crown...I used a replica crown on it though. Random comments: I have used Eta 2836/46 movements only in cartel/MBK cases that were made for Eta 2836/46/DG etc movements. Externally the 2836 is basically the same as a 2846. So...I tried a 2836 with 26.0mm dial in a Yuki 5513 genuine spec case and it would not work because the movement is too thick and the stem will not line up in the case tube...it is too far toward the back. A 2824 would probably work but I did not try one. Note...the movement still has the dial spacer so removing it will make the movement thinner but probably not thin enough. The movement/dial combo I tried in the Yuki OEM spec case was from an MBK '5512' and they use standard Eta 2836 movements with the calendar guts removed but with the calendar spacer left on. The details on the MBK cases are at the top of this sticky. If you wanted to use an ETA 2846 in a Yuki 55xx it would probably be like my JMB '1016' project where I had to use a set of 2824 plates with 2846 running gear (escapement etc) plus center wheel/hour wheel/canon pinion. HellofaMess unless you like taking Eta movements apart, mixing parts up, and putting them back together. Besides that, since the movements had no service history and had been handled, I also had to c/o them both. In rlx 1016, 55xx projects... "I could sell my 2846 and get a 2824 to get a thinner movement." The 2824 = wrong beat rate and the center wheel/hour wheel/cp may be too low, making the hands too close to the dial. The bottom line is... Projects like this always turn out to be trial and error unless you are working on a standard project with known parameters. If a 2836/46 is too thick, you either have to go with a 2824 (wrong beat rate), a combo 2824/2846 movement (hassle), or a thin Eta/A Schild etc. of some sort with the 21600 beat rate. Early rlx 15xx were 18000 bph but most are 19200 bph and 21600 bph is close enough (for me anyway). Like I said before...It's a HellofaMess (on a very small scale). Otoh look at the bright side...by the time you get finished, you will know more about vintage rolex projects than 95% of RWG members...for what it's worth. Ha! Yuki adapter: https://rwg.cc/topic/116411-yuki-eta-2824-adaptor Dial with no dial feet: https://rwg.cc/topic/183724-dial-with-no-feet 6610 Explorer: https://rwg.cc/topic/189330-rolex-6610-explorer-with-a-r-e-a-l-gilt-dial-pure-beauty/ DJ 1600/16000 info: https://rwg.cc/topic/192376-datejust-160016000/
  21. where to buy reps these day ?
  22. I've posted a Carbon fibre cased RM on the sales board.
  23. I've been emailing Andrew, he said they have them. Would you recommend? Is there any better I could get or is this the one to go for?
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