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  2. Need some help please guys
  3. Today
  4. That's odd, I've not seen it vanish. COVID-19 is still the 2nd or 3rd story I see in most all newscasts after Ukraine and mass shootings.
  5. "Interesting how it just vanished overnight. January it was the most deadly disease known to man." I have noticed it too. Call me cynical but Covid 19 vanished because it is not 'needed' right now, at least in the USA imho. "Now it’s all about the war." Yeah. Probably the main reason why C19 is not needed. "Corona who?" It may get famous again before November.
  6. 'Executive Decision' Finalized: Thought it over and decided to take the movement out of the 'shortcut 1655' and remove all GMT conversion parts...center wheel, CP, hour wheel, 24H wheel etc. and put it back to a regular date movement. I'll have to press another minute wheel post in the main plate but hopefully that will go smoothly. This movement will go back in the 1603 DJ it originally came out of...pretty nice, no case corrosion at all with a good black dial. Here are the details about changing the 1570/75 date movement over to a 'shortcut' GMT if anyone missed it or cares. Building an MBW Sub + 'shortcut' rlx 1560/70 GMT conversions... - Page 2 - The Rolex Area - RWG Start with post number 8. Next, I'll put another 'combo' swiss ETA movement together similar to my JMB '1016' project using swiss ETA 2836 main plates, hour wheel, CP etc. and 2846 escapement (21600 bph) with an Asian GMT conversion with non-adjustable 24H hand. This will go with the 'shortcut 1655' case/dial set to make a relatively low $$ '1655' for daily wear. Better than the average GMT type replica watch with a DG 3804 or Asian ETA clone...imho. Here is the info on the JMB '1016' with the combo ETA 2824/2846 movement: JMB '1016' project update... - The Rolex Area - RWG The GMT conversion will be using 2836 plates with 2846 escapement instead of 2824 plates with 2846 escapement. Last, I will put another 'shortcut' GMT movement together using a complete rolex 1570/75 hack movement, J$W case, dial etc to wear, sell, trade, or give away. It will make a first class watch and the 'shortcut' GMT conversion has been fully tested over the past year. They get a bad rap but some of them are pretty good...imho. This will leave me with a full set of nos genuine GMT conversion parts and I have a spare 1570/75 hack movement to make a 'correct' 1575 GMT movement for $ale or trade ($4K to $5K at today's prices). A genuine 1565/75 converted to GMT using all genuine parts is exactly the same as a movement that originally came in a 'four digit' GMT watch as long as the serial number starts with the letter 'D'. The serial number makes little difference on a 50+ year old movement unless someone comes up with the original chronometer certificate/documents with the movement and case serial numbers to prove it is not original to a particular GMT watch. Not many of these documents still exist and not many really care today. All comments are welcome.
  7. Yesterday
  8. Interesting how it just vanished overnight. January it was the most deadly disease known to man. Now it’s all about the war. Corona who? Yea pass me one with lime please. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. I haven't read through this thread but I can say that my entire family came down with Corona Virus but we were protected but our vaccine shots and booster but I do have two friends and a sister-in-law who are no longer with us. Ken
  10. "Speaking of MBW, I recently picked up an MBW 1680 from a fellow who wasn't happy with it- couldn't get a gen crystal to fit." All my MBK cases have oem spec 28.2mm OD case necks. The crystal retaining bezel is 30.15mm ID and I mostly use ST or Clark bezel kits with GS crystals. Never used a genuine crystal on one though. "But typically my Rolex reps these days runs $400-700 with a few mods. It's a rep, not a franken!" That is a very reasonable amount ($1400) to spend on a high quality watch project today, especially with that parts list. Besides that, if you drop it, chances are it will be fine. Can't say that for a 50 year old rolex 15xx movement with ruby rotor bearings and a winding weight that is just barely rivetted to the rotor axle.
  11. Fine looking watch, a Command Performance! "the paint is quite delicate compared to dials offered from yuki or raffles . the very outside edge of the dial chipped quite easily which was a bit of a disappointment It can not be seen when assembled but I expected slightly better for $400 dial." Maybe this happens when the dial and movement shift a bit in the case when pulling/pushing/screwing the crown down if the movement is not tight in the case. I have also put a very small amount of paint on the outer edge of a dial (where it will not show from the front) where it chipped to fill in where the paint popped off and smooth it up a little bit. Maybe the outer edge of the dial seat is a hair too small and chips the paint on the outer edge of the dial (and splinters around to the front) when installing the dial and movement. I've had a few dials do this so I started sanding the dial seat in the case with 1000 sandpaper on the flattened end of a round wooden stick to smooth the mating surface if the dial seat appears to be unusually rough. Did it help? Who knows? It might even contribute to 'dial slip' and cause more scuffing/chipping. Otoh, maybe it lessens the grip on the paint so it will slip rather than scuff/chip. Maybe. Maybe the dial plate is too slick or contaminated, maybe the paint just does not stick or is chalky. Maybe touching or holding the edge of the dial with bare fingers can get skin oil etc. on the paint and soften it. What causes it? Who knows for sure? I have no answer, just a bunch of maybes. Maybe MIT in Cambridge, Massachusetts will study the problem and come up with a solution. Maybe not.
  12. A brief update : I had the pleasure of building another commando for a forum member next door. This time I got to experience the mochacha dial first hand. GEN PARTS USED: 5500 case set 6mm crown folded link bracelet / end links crystal Other parts: Clone 2824-2 raffles movement holder - modified ofrie handset raffles DJ second hand Overall Dial impressions. Good quality quite accurate nice lume work and has a nice puffy appearance. 2 criticisms on the dial the paint is quite delicate compared to dials offered from yuki or raffles . the very outside edge of the dial chipped quite easily which was a bit of a disappointment It can not be seen when assembled but I expected slightly better for $400 dial the dial plate was slightly smaller and although it fit the case , it just barely did. I had forgot to measure the dial or opening. I was just glad I was able to make it work overall the dial is the closest there is to a gen example. He is now asking over $500 for the dial which I would say is where I draw the line If you must have one then yes but these doubled in price just over a year later is a bit much . ( I found out about them and this option just after I finished my build and considered ordering it as a replacement) but didnt. and probably wont . wish I did when it was sup $300 Here is the finished project . Overall I am very happy with how this build worked out. It was nice being able to see the mochacha dial first hand and work with it. The service from them was good and fast. Good communication and fast shipping . I would recommend them.
  13. For the DJ above. One up front, two out back... NOS from 2011, A7750. Three of a kind (more or less)... Left...sec @ 6 from 2011. Center...sec @ 9 from 2006. Right...sec @ 6 from 2011. All A7750, all nos, all will still run (small miracle). All still wrapped in plastic, had to remove it to put one on for the 'wristie'.
  14. Franken goodness, rep mid case but otherwise gen.
  15. Last week
  16. Speaking of MBW, I recently picked up an MBW 1680 from a fellow who wasn't happy with it- couldn't get a gen crystal to fit. This is a later 1680- says 1680 on the case- 5513 like the earlier ones but still has the L462xxx SN. Lugholes were close to gen spec. I installed a 702 tube and crown, trimmed the cgs in the process and had the 2846-2 which I had waiting for such a project serviced and installed the silver dwo. I've sent the MBW white dial and hands off to be relumed and have installed a gen crystal and bezel insert while I wait. Also have a gen 93150 with 580 ends ready to go. I picked up most of the parts 10-12 years ago maybe longer so prices were reasonable. MBW 1680 with swiss 2836-2 and white dial- $350 2846-2- $80 plus $200 to service DWO- $25 702 crown and tube- $100 gen 93150 and 580 ends- $400- c. 2006-8 relume- $100-$150 insert- $80- service insert bought in the late 2000s crystal- maybe $50- they were cheap 15 years ago So, I have $1400 in this watch give or take and an extra swiss eta 2836-2 which is running fine for another project. This is all I'm going to do these days- a good looking rep with a swiss eta and gen parts if I have them. But typically my Rolex reps these days runs $400-700 with a few mods. It's a rep, not a franken!
  17. This seems embarrassing as I found my answer in the link below seconds after posting this thread! 😳 I had been searching for weeks without success! It felt like windy rain coming down just after having nicely washed my car! My apologies! Now for anyone else that might have the same enquiry I have posted the link with the the answer to my own question in the reply by ccwatchmaker https://www.watchuseek.com/threads/releasing-kif-shock-absorber.5041935/ thanks for your understanding!
  18. It is one found in some the older Rolex caliber and also in some older day dates ! Scary looking thing shown in the image below ! Is there a special tool to do this or just rotate tweezers and risk losing it forever ? It looks like an even bigger nightmare than the modern novodiac spring found in your typical eta! 🤨 Thanks
  19. RWG is the paper and my posts on this subject are just the pencil that started writing the story. Freddy and Alligoat have sharpened the pencil and turned the page. Where I only expressed my side of the story, their comments show valid reasons both for and against assembling Frankensteins in general. I fully agree with both. I am not moving over to 'anti-Frankensteinism' but have moved slowly away from 'chasing the dream' of the 'non rolex' rolex. Slowly being the key word. "Placing a gen movement into a rep/aftermarket case with a rep/aftermarket dial/handset does not make a lot of sense because it will have little effect on the look & feel of the franken. On the other hand, powering a gen dial/handset in a rep/aftermarket case with a gen movement takes the enterprise to a much higher level since what you see & feel is gen." And... "Second watch is an 1803 watch in SS. Picked up a 1556 movement on the bay with a silver day and date wheel for a good price, a redone white dial with silver stick markers and got a 16000 DJ case that Phong modified to accept the 1556 movement. A white dialed 1803 in SS. I love the watch- it flies below the radar. I'm wearing it on a 93150 and call it the Sportman's Day Date." Two very good reasons for 'chasing the dream' and I appreciate it. I still feel the same way about it but time has slowed me down a little and I have pulled back on projects. Besides that, it is the beginning of Summertime!, the grass and weeds are growing, and the porches need painting. Tending to it all will be taking up a lot of my 'spare' time for the next six months. Looking back at my opening post...maybe it was really (subconsciously?) aimed at members, forum surfers etc. who have entered the replica scene in the past few years and want to put a 'Four Digit Frankenstein' watch together with a genuine movement etc. but do not realize the pitfalls lurking in these projects and the $$ it takes to put one together today. I should have stated this up front but left it out. After all, guys like us who are 'addicted' to this 'hobby' are undeterred by the difficulties and cost of these endeavors. Below is a repost about the actual cost of an F-stein '5513' project I put together 10 or 11 years ago. It ended up costing about $1300. Compare it to how much the same watch would cost today. Double at least, maybe triple. Btw, it is still apart in the same box. Thanks for the replies, the more the merrier! Here is the info on one of my MBK 5513 projects a few years ago, 2011 or 2012 iirc (I have posted this before). It ended up costing about $1300. I still have it but it is apart right now. $300 or less for case (can not remember exact $$, got it from a member) $102 for Yuki dial $25 for TC tube and crown $12 for ST hands $650 for 26 jewel rolex 1520 hack mvt $20 for mainspring etc. $0 for c/o (did it myself) $85 for fake 358 hoods and put together '93150' bracelet, also have a folded oyster from 'Mary' that adds up to about the same $12 for GS crystal $68 for ST bezel kit (better fit than MBK bez with the GS crystal that was used) $25 misc...spring bars, gaskets, case screws etc.
  20. Having done the franken route with gen movements back in the 2006-9 period, I've definitely quit that path. I built a 5508 with case and dial from NDTrading and a not quite correct 1520 movement from an Air King. I paid $880 for the AK and surprisingly it came with 7835 bracelet with 571 ends- whoppee! I spent $2500 putting the watch together including a service in there. I picked up a couple of gen T-16 crystals in the day for $100 each or so- gone are those days! I could work on making sure that the watch is WR, but I just don't see the point. I do have an older AK with a 1530 movement which would be correct for the 5508, but I haven't gotten around to swapping them out. The older AK with a gold plated case- maybe I paid $1000-1100. I just don't remember. Second watch is a 1803 watch in SS. Picked up a 1556 movement on the bay with a silver day and date wheel for a good price, a redone white dial with silver stick markers and got a 16000 DJ case that Phong modified to accept the 1556 movement. A white dialed 1803 in SS. I love the watch- it flies below the radar. I'm wearing it on a 93150 and call it the Sportman's Day Date. Once again I spent around $2500 putting the watch together. For all around beatability, I like my two DJ frankens- a 16014 and a 16013, both with 2836-2 swiss movements. There are WR tested watches and are great at $500 each
  21. Frankens were never a sane financial investment for the reasons stated. But for those who either have very deep pockets (to pay a watchsmith to assemble the watch for you) or the skills to do the work themselves, they remain the most cost effective way to the look & feel of the real thing. Of course, alot depends on the percentage of gen parts used & the quality of the work involved in the assembly. Placing a gen movement into a rep/aftermarket case with a rep/aftermarket dial/handset does not make alot of sense because it will have little effect on the look & feel of the franken. On the other hand, powering a gen dial/handset in a rep/aftermarket case with a gen movement takes the enterprise to a much higher level since what you see & feel is gen. Of course, when dealing with vintage Rolex components, maintenance is & will be an ongoing dilemma since costs are constantly escalating & supplies -- those that remain available -- are tightly controlled by the mothership. I think if you have the passion, knowledge, will & cash, frankens are the only affordable way to experience vintage Daytonas, SDs, Subs & GMTs.
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