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Bulova 14K gold automatic from 1953 (L3). Bought December 12, 1996 for $100, had the dial refinished about 20 years ago plus c/o, crystal, and crown around the same time. The autowind assembly was famous for not being very efficient so this movement was only made 1952-1954. Never wore it much at all but it still runs Ok...if you hand wind it. Back then...it cost $39 to have the dial refinished including return postage. Buckle is also 14K and the scrap gold to make the buckle was about $35 or $40 (pawn shop price) plus casting supplies = about $50. The dial company is gone now and gold watch prices have gone up since then. A little bit. Gold closed at $368 end of December 1996. April 25, 2025 it was $3348. Jimmythree is automatico.

Hello Gang, I want to show you my new modded GMt with new Old- Crowns Case Here it is. Gesendet von meinem 23078PND5G mit Tapatalk

Today...my build GS.

Guys...here I am to briefly present my latest build. It is a Grand Seiko diver homage. Unfortunately I was unable to find a satisfactory dial. With this (third dial) I completed everything, even if I should find a suitable crown like that of a genuine one. I am not displeased with the final result, but I am still hoping for some improvements. I also have the bracelet that I plan to mount later. Here are the photos.

Today with bracelet...

It looks great!

HI. If you have to sacrifice the existing tube, you must take a pair of pliers with pointed noses and remove it without twisting to avoid it breaking. I repeat, the tube should be the one with a snap-fit (without thread). Otherwise (i.e. with a screwed tube) you must unscrew it counterclockwise. Having said that, I still recommend that you first purchase the tube + crown kit and test its compatibility with the existing tube without disassembling it. If it is not compatible, you can proceed with disassembly. Oh by the way, it's the same all over the world...I think that every place in the world can have its positive sides, but also its negative ones. Have a nice day.

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I've often been asked how a modified ST19 case compares to a Vietnam V72 case, the latter known to be the closest to gen you can get. Even if I always answer after my mods the cartel case is very close, I'd say 99% because pushers and crown position SLIGHTLY differ, I feel I'm not believed... So here you go !!! See a Phong case beside a Cartel case. Both refinished of course as a stock Phong case isn't that exciting... And you can see for yourself how similar they are on the outside. I won't say which is which... I let you guys guess since some say it's obvious.... It's often stated as a no go the cartel is thicker. It isn't much, it's because of the stock shape, very straight on the sides, that one you'd get the illusion it's much too fat. A V72 movement is not taller than the ST19 (Venus 175). ST 19 is a larger diameter, but that doesn't show once cased. Also, at the end, see a genuine bezel beside a combo of a cartel bezel modified with a Vietnam insert and reshaped. Of course the font differs, I've never seen a 1:1 rep of a 6263 insert, but overall we're there ! It's close enough to be enjoyed when worn. Pictures are unforgiving... End word : a ST19 build is about 1/4 of the price of a V72 build...

So it’s been a bit since I ordered a rep - this one looks good to me, but want to hear what others say. IMG_9312.mp4

You have given very good advice! Why didn't I think of replacing the bracelet? People get sick and their brains stop working... The happy thing is that I'm better now and everything is back to routine. I'll look into a new bracelet as an alternative though, thanks.😃

Now is active on this link: repgeek.com

In my opinion the 126610 Sub is the best modern 6 digit Sub. Much better than 116610 with his ugly thick Lugs. Much more defined like an old 5 digit Submariner. Slimmer Lugs and a wider Bracelet is really nice But this are my 2Cents[emoji6] Gesendet von meinem 23078PND5G mit Tapatalk

I've got a smaller wrist myself, and sometimes even a millimeter or two can make a big difference in how comfortable a watch feels.

Like Freddy said, diameter is not the best metric here. I had a genuine 37mm Tudor BB54 and it was AWFULLY unbalanced and heavier than a 14060/16610. Also, I have had 39mm watches with Lug-to-Lug's in excess of 50mm. Precious metal like the Blue White Gold Submariner weighs more as well. That said, a neo-vintage Sub like the 14060 on a hollow 93150 braclet is probably the best option if you can go Gen. --- or find an ARF 16610 and swap to a 93150 with Hollow links... Otherwise, look into Titanium or Carbon cases. I just picked up the VSF NTTD v5 (all Ti) Bond Seamaster and is like I am not wearing a watch! Good luck.

I am sorry to hear about your injury, but is the problem with 40mm+ watches due to their size or weight? If it is a weight issue, why not just replace the metal bracelet on the larger Sub with a NATO, Zulu or rubber strap, any of which should reduce the weight to below that of a braceleted 37mm Sub?

I believe TJ is using Acetimer watch winder cases. They made a few different models in various sizes, number of winder pairs & wood finishes. I have a few of them myself, but unfortunately Acetimer's website went AWOL several years ago & I have not seen any for sale since then. They really are beautiful cases & the winders are quiet & work well, but their motors tend to fail after 10 or 12 years. In fact, I have been looking for replacement motors for 1 of my cases, but none of the motors I have received have been the correct type. To date, I have not found anything similar to the Acetimer, especially for the prices they originally sold for.

There should be a few threads detailing my Bond Sub build from 2008-9 (including macros of the finished dial/handset before casing & the process I used to add 'patina'), but I cannot seem to find them. However, I found these pics in my archives from that build that may help as a guide --

Fine looking MG! "two domed crystals ( very similar to my original 6538 crystal) but these have a metal retaining ring on the inside edge. Did not fit the case with the ring installed, removed the ring and the crystal fit the case. slightly smaller on the outside diameter so bezel is not a snug fit. Added some dial dots for extra security and it seems good.....might replace the dial dots with clear silicone." The 'gap obsession'... I know what you mean about 'the gap' around the outside of the dial. I did a '5512' project a few years back using a DW case, 1570, and Yuki dial. The case was made for 26.5mm dials so there was a very small gap around the OD of the dial and only the dial foot screws were holding the dial down. I made a very thin spacer out of aluminum to fill the gap and felt better about it...until I read later that a few of the earliest 5512 watches had the gap because they were using leftover dials with a smaller diameter than needed. Speaking of 'the gap',..here is an example of an early 5512 with the gap and without the SCOC blurb that came later... Rolex Submariner Eagle Beak Tropical Dial Ref. 5512 - Rolex Passion Market