sul

Hi, Still here... sometimes. I never was very active here, but never forgotten this site also. Still 20+ watch on my collection, half of them gen`s (not high end), no interest of selling these, probably my kid`s will love to play with them one day:). No interest about replica watches any more so much. But yesterday I just discover that I have Big EGI project in my drawer, so I must probably finish it some time:) Old project, very old unfinished project. I am more into electric guitars these days and guitar playing.

It`s been awhile.... Merry Christmas RWG, Rahulikku Jõuluaega, Hyvää Joulua !!! winter time:) Unfortunately is no snow here yet, maybe tomorrow;)

Asjalik esimene kell. Üks korralikumaid eksemplare replikate hulgas ja suht hea töökindlusega.

+1

Copy paste of my answer from different topic about replica guitars: I have 6 guitars 3 of them are self build, two of them are re-made of Gibson rep, I hate rep guitars thats why there is no Gibson sign on headstock. Just some nice looking x unknown brand name. But from same factory as yellow Gibbys are made. No point to buy them, unless you can do a lot by yourself. Pimped rep LP price can go up for 600-700 usd and for that price you will get new low end Gibson LP from Thoman or elsewhere or used gen or Lawsuit made in Japan... Let me start with "problems".... by first look they all look more or less good, reality is that all is needed to change. I did it becouse I like work with wood/ guitars and I did want to see how good they can be. All done, they are pretty good. Ok, here we go, it is basically all about rep guitars not only about rep LP : - Headstock tuners holes are no good- to big or too small. Tuners are 99,9% crap, even if the stay tuned, they look like sh@£it. - Trussrod usually can be adjusted but it is often too short ,99% of reps probably have this flaw, difficult or sometimes very difficult to adjust tryussrod. Usually they will have a trussrod what can be adjusted, sometimes trussrod is glued in... then you will have a problem... -Nut is plastic, not good by sound vise or by look, it is deffinitely needed to change -Frets levelling is needed 90% done if talking about rep guitars, sometimes frets are wider that fingerboard, you will hurt your fingers -Fretboard insert`s are not made of abalone or mother of pearl, chap plasic- however palstic looks also quite ok also sometimes.... - Neck are made of 2 or mostly of 3 pieces- IMHO that not "all bad" thing, if from one pieces made neck, then you would have same problem as original, neck will be broken sooner or later. But by visually and cosmetically they are not good, if dark paint, then probably ok. - Finishing... body and neck-headstock, needs to be sanded and re polished, then probably ok, from factory...no good. From distance ok, close look, lot of flaws. - Sometimes neck and body joint is no good, lot of them have neck not parallel to body level.. Neck joint is same as Epi will have, usually same construction - Sometimes frets are not in right places on fingerboard, not possible to tune, my two yellow LP`s does not have this but I have heard that it is also a common problem. - Cavities are very badly done, I just shielded my guitar`s cavities becouse it will look better after that not that this was needed... -All and I mean ALL hardware needed to be changed, sometimes pickups are ok, if you play hardcore metal with uber high cain distortened amp pedal, but normally they are crap and very michrophonic-so they will screm and hoot. - I you like to add HQ hardware you have to re drill all holes, switch hole, pots holes....+ made switch hole wall thinner for switchcraft switch, pots are usually some low end chinease crap mini pots- however they will work, wiring is total BS- will work somhow but wire is low end, soldering is no good, almost always there is some stange noise.. bad soldering-double grounding -ground loops. - Bridge is too far away from bridge pickup( or bridge pickup is too close to neck picukup- take as you like), you cant use without modification original pickguard, by look placing it is different than original. Bridge post are fat, not slim as US G LP, you can use adapters, but they still look fake. - And body... usualy made of 3 or 4 or 6 or... pieces... you will probably have picture by now what they really are. If you will have body of two pieces thats good, if on piece thats good. But 3 ot 4 or... no. Usually wood is not best quality, backside and upper side are covered with thin vineer... and sometimes all is covered with vineer- side areas also, you cant understand what is under vineer or how many pieces is made making guitar body.. Belive me, there is nothing HQ there... - Cavities covers are differently sized as gen, not possible to us gen covers. - Finishing, paint or whatever it is is very thick... and very plastic like, it will not age like gen guitars... hard to relic or polish it also. - Some minor thing more-no good trussrod cover by look or by size, some minor cracs and non matching filler is used etc etc... - +Bindings are usually quite HQ ... what I like... +I can all do as I want, I will choose hardware, pickups, wiring( I will use 50 wiring if LP). +Wood by sound wise is good for guitar. Not "table wood" +Usually if noted that neck and body is mahagony, they are mahagony, by grain not same as US LP mahagony, but still some Honduras or China or some different mahagony. +-Upper layer is usually never thick maple...it is veneer.. but again, I dont see a problem, some custom shop gen G LP s are made also as all mahagony... so for me this is not a problem usually. +The look by size and shape quite same as gen-main reason why I did that work... I like LP shape not that "Gibson" name +Fingerboard are mado of rosewood usually You cant compare rep watch and rep guitars... guitars are waist of money has thay are from facory.. needed to do a lot of modifications. The are like low end canal street watches.... waist of money. Better option is to us HQ guitar KIT and make all from start...

I have 6 guitars 3 of them are self build, two of them are re-made of Gibson rep, I hate rep guitars thats why there is no Gibson sign on headstock. Just some nice looking x unknown brand name. But from same factory as yellow Gibbys are made. No point to buy them, unless you can do a lot by yourself. Pimped rep LP price can go up for 600-700 usd and for that price you will get new low end Gibson LP from Thoman or elsewhere or used gen or Lawsuit made in Japan... Let me start with "problems".... by first look they all look more or less good, reality is that all is needed to change. I did it becouse I like work with wood/ guitars and I did want to see how good they can be. All done, they are pretty good. Ok, here we go, it is basically all about rep guitars not only about rep LP : - Headstock tuners holes are no good- to big or too small. Tuners are 99,9% crap, even if the stay tuned, they look like sh@£it. - Trussrod usually can be adjusted but it is often too short ,99% of reps probably have this flaw, difficult or sometimes very difficult to adjust tryussrod. Usually they will have a trussrod what can be adjusted, sometimes trussrod is glued in... then you will have a problem... -Nut is plastic, not good by sound vise or by look, it is deffinitely needed to change -Frets levelling is needed 90% done if talking about rep guitars, sometimes frets are wider that fingerboard, you will hurt your fingers -Fretboard insert`s are not made of abalone or mother of pearl, chap plasic- however palstic looks also quite ok also sometimes.... - Neck are made of 2 or mostly of 3 pieces- IMHO that not "all bad" thing, if from one pieces made neck, then you would have same problem as original, neck will be broken sooner or later. But by visually and cosmetically they are not good, if dark paint, then probably ok. - Finishing... body and neck-headstock, needs to be sanded and re polished, then probably ok, from factory...no good. From distance ok, close look, lot of flaws. - Sometimes neck and body joint is no good, lot of them have neck not parallel to body level.. Neck joint is same as Epi will have, usually same construction - Sometimes frets are not in right places on fingerboard, not possible to tune, my two yellow LP`s does not have this but I have heard that it is also a common problem. - Cavities are very badly done, I just shielded my guitar`s cavities becouse it will look better after that not that this was needed... -All and I mean ALL hardware needed to be changed, sometimes pickups are ok, if you play hardcore metal with uber high cain distortened amp pedal, but normally they are crap and very michrophonic-so they will screm and hoot. - I you like to add HQ hardware you have to re drill all holes, switch hole, pots holes....+ made switch hole wall thinner for switchcraft switch, pots are usually some low end chinease crap mini pots- however they will work, wiring is total BS- will work somhow but wire is low end, soldering is no good, almost always there is some stange noise.. bad soldering-double grounding -ground loops. - Bridge is too far away from bridge pickup( or bridge pickup is too close to neck picukup- take as you like), you cant use without modification original pickguard, by look placing it is different than original. Bridge post are fat, not slim as US G LP, you can use adapters, but they still look fake. - And body... usualy made of 3 or 4 or 6 or... pieces... you will probably have picture by now what they really are. If you will have body of two pieces thats good, if on piece thats good. But 3 ot 4 or... no. Usually wood is not best quality, backside and upper side are covered with thin vineer... and sometimes all is covered with vineer- side areas also, you cant understand what is under vineer or how many pieces is made making guitar body.. Belive me, there is nothing HQ there... - Cavities covers are differently sized as gen, not possible to us gen covers. - Finishing, paint or whatever it is is very thick... and very plastic like, it will not age like gen guitars... hard to relic or polish it also. - Some minor thing more-no good trussrod cover by look or by size, some minor cracs and non matching filler is used etc etc... - +Bindings are usually quite HQ ... what I like... +I can all do as I want, I will choose hardware, pickups, wiring( I will use 50 wiring if LP). +Wood by sound wise is good for guitar. Not "table wood" +Usually if noted that neck and body is mahagony, they are mahagony, by grain not same as US LP mahagony, but still some Honduras or China or some different mahagony. +-Upper layer is usually never thick maple...it is veneer.. but again, I dont see a problem, some custom shop gen G LP s are made also as all mahagony... so for me this is not a problem usually. +The look by size and shape quite same as gen-main reason why I did that work... I like LP shape not that "Gibson" name +Fingerboard are mado of rosewood usually You cant compare rep watch and rep guitars... guitars are waist of money has thay are from facory.. needed to do a lot of modifications. The are like low end canal street watches.... waist of money. Better option is to us HQ guitar KIT and make all from start...

Inside car pictures- for me mainly becouse inside car there is no sky-cloud-lamp`s reflecions, and color`s are more "true" than outside where all colors are too bright. All that when I use mobile phone for photo. If better cam then outside pic`s are not problems.

Sry about flame.... but I am slightly [censored] every time when I see such post... here or in brand section topic or somewhere else where it does not belong You are new here, not vip member- you cant start WTB topic... instead of paying VIP member monthly payment and wihtout making new WTB section topic you will make this "topic"-hoping somebody will read it and offer to you this wanted watch...am I wrong`? Folks, dont make these "fake-no cost" WTB topic`s elsewhere when WTB section. Thats why we have WTB and sales section. Maybe I am wrong and too mean... if so, sry. I am not VIP- supporting member also... But, back to question, trusted dealers are listed there where is sales section, they all probably have this Omega version. + when watch is bought as new from dealer, you will have chance to change watch if no good + price difference between new and used is not so big, I will always go for new.

I am in here some years already, I´m not very active of course-no time for that. I have build only one watch by myself PAM040, back then when a decent rep was not possible to buy from dealer`s. That will be probably myfirts and last build, not time for that any more. Egizano is still waiting to put all things together in drawer... No I have ~18 watches, some gen`s rest best( IMHO) of rep world, thinking about selling some of my gen watches, I like them, but 18 watch is way too much....and I dont want to sell these reps what I have... gen`s has to go. I also cant understand whay pay ( a lot)extra if there is some gen parts. It is not gen, still a rep. Better rep maybe-depend`s how well are modifcation(s) done, did wannabe" watchsmith" add some "hairlines!-marks on dial or ruin slightly hands paint, etc, etc. Also I dont get all that fuzz about "Frankens". You will have a lot gen parts, high cost level and still no gen-original watch with shitty selling value. Ok, I get it as hobby, where you just have spend some time with watches and you like that building- searching parts process. I get it, it is a nice way to spend a free time, but will I want or buy one, NO, never. And as I mention somewhere in here before... rep ( super reps, higher level reps)guality is so good nowadays, that I cant see point to buy a entry or higher level gen`s also. I have that possibility to buy gens today, but no interest anymore.

There is lot of cosmetically nice looking and very gen like Radiomir`s available. They all also have one flaw- bad crown tube... tube threads will wear off sooner or later.

I work in area where lot of my clients have more or less high or higher end watch on wrist`s. I usually wear at work PAM( 44mm) or Cartier Roadster or some other nice looking rep`s of entry level gen watches. Only one client did ask during last 7 y "from where I did got it-" that time on my wrist was BB 6.75. I did notice that some of client will look at my wrist, but then there is no action from my side, I will be/ act as I am usually. If somebody would ask about watch, probably I would tell that its is nice watch, but rep. Don`t like to lie. I had situatuon, somewere else, not in my office, one person was just tapping to may sholder and he did mention something like this: "I have same watch" etc. Then I just nod and that`s it. He did not ask more and he did probably not understod that I did wear a rep. I can today buy a gen entry level high end watch if wanted, ok maybe upper level 10k + is still too much, but price level ~1000-6000 usd is very fine, but I will not buy, becouse WHY?! I love my rep Pam`s and other good quality reps, for me there is no big difference any more is this watch what I wear, gen or good rep. Example-today`s 44mm PAM`s ( my favorite rep) quality is already very good from rep factory`s, I dont see a point to buy a gen any more. I like it as watch, as" designed item x" not as "status symbol". That`s why not interes about gen higer end watch from my side ( and not interest in future also, I am sure), will invest my money in different(hopefully better) way;) I have one "rule" ,when I buy rep`s, I will never buy more expensive watch rep that I could buy in real life... no AP`s no Patek`s, no reps that as gen will cost more that 10k, that is my own "rule":)

Nice but cannon pinion is too low( too inside)

Really like that model, but don`t like A 7750 mov, I have/ had only problems with this mov. Really nice rep!

Some pics more, maybe i is more clear about what I am talking here;). Outdoor or when sun is shining, brown dial color is almost same: But inside room 390 dial is much more darker...

How is gen 564 dial color compare with 390 dial? Same darker brown color as 390, or 564 is lighter brown? I have rep noob 390 and it`s deal is much more darker brown that kw 564 dial, how are gen dial`s? I have new "toy", kw Pam564 and my firts opinin today is that kw factory 564 is quite good rep, some small flaw`s but overall nice rep- good GC, cannon pinion, very well made case, even P5000 / 6497 fake movement upper plate text is thinner-more gen like now, sapphire glass is not the best, but ok. -Ok what I dont like( or dont just know how looks gen): text on dial-it is too orange color, it is probably ok not so big difference , but dial color.... it is IMHO too light brown, if it is too light then yeah... nothing to do, it is biggest flaw and then this baby is not good at all . Of course my only source is internet and pictures of gen,I dont really know what color is gen dial... Can somebody please who is familiar with gen 564 comment rep/gen dial color? Sry dont have time to take pictures from my watch but some pics from net: rep: gen:

Nice watch! Old school:) and old school flaws: CG and CG pinnion is bad, cannon pinnion is bad, short fat lugs(maybe I am wrong about that,cant see from pic`s),etc...all these old school stuff flaws;) There where days when such watch was "best version" availabel, and was needed to re done all:), not like today, where lot of reps are quite good from factory Same " old school ", my 040:

And from where you will find a good 040 rep? There is only a few self made "old school "copys and even they are not near prefect( I have one) My last orde was 564, from front it is good, back side.... as usually- open caseback and fake P5000 mov is 100% screaming that is is not gen! I really dont care that back side wiew is "off", I will wear it not show it and I still prefer 564 over 172 ps) Blue handset on rep are 99% no good and not same Quality and look as gen

Only original`s this week, 10.09 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NpVgfPRa-d0

Cartier, classic dress watch.

cannon pinnion is flat and polished? Is it possible to have a macro shot from cannon pinnion? To me cp is always first what to look, quite easy to tell ( usually) what is rep and what is better rep;) I really like it and I did promise to my self a half year ago, that this will be my last watch( I have 15 watch today, genś and reps) but 500 usd... it is thinking point. Usd is stronger than before, 500 usd is almost same as 500 eur today. Will think.

Here we go....

I really like this watch...