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FOR some people, a simple three-hand watch just doesn't offer quite enough features to fool around with. That's where the simpler complications come in, giving us a little bit more of the fiddly fun factor. Take, for example, Patek Philippe's full calendar 5396, which is now made available to us in white gold as well as rose gold. For a more affordable alternative boasting all the same information - and see-through discs for day and month to boot - check out the chocolate hues of this stainless steel version of a full calendar watch from Louis Erard's new 1931 collection. Auto, see-through case-back, a generous 40mm case: In short, the perfect starter watch if you are not quite ready to make the mental leap into serious five-figure territory. Breguet used to make this signature model in very small cases, but have now updated it to a more contemporary 39mm size. They still offer it only in yellow or white gold, but not pink gold. The Classique 7137 recalls the brand's famous Number 5 watch delivered to a French count by the great master Abraham-Louis Breguet in the late 18th century. This year's auto version features a new 31-leaf sunburst pattern at 6 o'clock, each pointing to one day of the month. If you want to throw in chrono functions as well, there's always Zenith's Grande Class Moonphase in practical stainless steel, which boasts the brand's signature high-speed (36,000 vph) El Primero movement. When what really floats your boat is a seriously big chunk of gold at today's lofty prices, you should take a closer look at this black dial version of Rolex's Classic Daytona chrono housed in rose gold. It's a colour the brand christens Everose, with the promise that it won't tarnish the way less well-made versions of this warmer gold colour can do over time. If a jumping hour watch is missing from your growing watch collection, you might want to consider this Franck Muller number in the brand's signature cintree curvex case. We must say this looks quite nice with the date and moonphase subdial at 6 o'clock. And should you be getting forgetful with age, the concentric railway tracks on this 42.5mm Oris Artelier alarm watch serve the dual purposes of marking the passing of the hours (outer) and setting the alarm time (inner). The latter is done with the aid of an extra crown and a red-tipped inner hand. A simple stainless steel and black croco combo - refreshingly neat! As a 150th anniversary special, Vulcain introduces, for the first time ever, a new auto movement for their Cricket alarm watch named the Calibre V-18. The stainless steel version we showcase here is available in a choice of silver, black or copper for its semi-open worked dial, but there's a more expensive rose gold variant as well. Cheers!

Hi guys, below are some ultra thin watches that prove less is more! Enjoy. Zenith's New Vintage 1955 is a classic ultra-flat watch, but with an auto movement, housed in a 40mm Fifties style case. COSC certified, and available in just 250 rose gold pieces. Two gents' skelette watches come to the fore this year. Patek Philippe's offering, the reference 5180/1, is presented on a white gold bracelet, which makes it a little expensive while Piaget's version sits on more affordable black croco. Take your pick. And if you think the representative called Quai De L'Ile here from Vacheron Constantin is yet another example of a skeletonised watch, you would not be altogether correct. In fact, this manufacture is now offering you the ultimate in understated watch snobbery - the opportunity to choose from 400 different made-to-measure combinations of this new line. All this comes with top-notch security, in terms of unique 'fingerprinting' for each timepiece. A simpler time-and-date version is shown here (based on movement calibre 2460QH), but there's also a version with day, date and power reserve (using movement calibre 2475SC/1). The seven-part, cushion-shaped case alone can be mixed and matched in different ways, and the metals available are pink gold, palladium and titanium. The Glashutte Original Pano-Inverse XL is a perfect example of why sometimes the most obvious ideas only become obvious after someone makes you ask: 'Now, why didn't I think of that?' In this case, we are talking about the idea of putting the 'heart' of the watch onto the dial, instead of hiding it in the back. Displayed here in their full glory, on the dial side of the white gold case, are the brand's hand-engraved balance bridge and signature duplex swan-neck regulator arrangement. Baume & Mercier honours a third-generation leader of their firm called William Baume with a three-piece special red gold edition in 2008, in a limited edition of 178 each. Our favourite is the understated 41mm auto piece shown here with big date and a squiggly hand for its retro-second counter at 6 o'clock. And, of course, after six round watches, we have to offer you something different in the form of a square in this Girard-Perregaux Vintage 1945 timepiece. We have an extra fondness for this piece because GP has found a very neat way to lay out time, date, seconds and power reserve on a rare white enamel dial. THE LUC XP is the kind of ultra-thin watch that tries to give you more for less. For example, not having a seconds hand actually made their new slate grey dial stand out even more against a rose gold case. And, despite the latter's slim profile, this perfectionist manufacture has managed to fit in twin barrels offering a more-than-decent 65 hours power reserve with a full wind. Finally, if you would like to be part of history, Omega plans to launch a limited-edition lookalike of their Seamaster XVI, which was produced in honour of the Melbourne Olympics in 1956. Proudly embossed with the Roman numerals XXIX to honour this month's 29th Olympiad in Beijing, this limited edition combines history with a very special event and the best technology the brand can offer today. A co-axial movement beats inside the 37mm yellow gold case, and, of course, for a Seamaster, it has to boast 100-metre water resistance. Cheers!

Kari Voutilanen's Chronometer 27 is an unusually-shaped white gold case showing off a regulator-style layout, designed to suit the rectangular form of an old Observatory class movement made by Longines. Watches with such ne plus ultra movements typically boast exceptional accuracy, but of course this exceptional watchmaker had to give it an extra touch of subtle sophistication. He combined two techniques to define his balance spring like no other: the well-known Breguet overcoil found in the finest wrist-watches, and also a lesser-known technique known as the Grosman curve for the internal curvature of the balance spring. If rectangular is the shape you go for, take a look at the 2008 version of Piaget's Emperador watch. It carries the logo at 12 o'clock, in addition to the line's signature rectangular sub-seconds dial and fan-shaped power reserve indicator. Tissot Sculpture is the ideal dress watch for the man who prefers something different from the usual round case. This auto watch with big date is presented in a striking combination of 18-carat rose gold and a textured black dial. OK, this next one is square, but the case is cambered at three angles as well. Roger Dubuis' King Square combines rubber, gold and titanium with a folding buckle in handsome fashion.

Ultra-simple chic is the best feature of the special edition Panerai Radiomir in 47mm titanium called the PAM 322, delivered with a brown dial and matching croco strap. It celebrates the line's signature sandwich dial and wire loop lugs, but departs from traditional high-gloss Radiomir cases. This time, grade two titanium is used to make a brushed finish case, while grade five titanium is used for the polished bezel. And after looking at the price of the gen, I am glad I am into this hobby of replica...

Many IWC fans here may have met, or at least heard about, IWC's master watchmaker Kurt Klaus. Here, however, we would like to introduce a senior colleague of his who not only helped to save the firm in its darkest hour, but also played a part in the re-birth of A Lange & Sohne. Presenting... Hannes Pantli, member of the board of directors at IWC, spokesman of the management board, and a pretty respectable collector of IWCs himself. LW: According to a story about the legendary Gunter Blumlein done some time ago by my friend Jaw, you were instrumental in saving IWC from financial ruin sometime in 1976, in the aftermath of the quartz-instigated crisis in the Swiss watchmaking industry. Will you be kind enough to tell us a bit more about this Hannes Pantli: I joined IWC Schaffhausen in June 1972 and was responsible for some European markets. The following year, 1973, was until then the best year in IWC's history. But, by 1974, the crisis started due to several facts: Our tuning-fork watches were a flop, and nobody knew about the future of the watchmaking industry with the upcoming quartz watches. To complicate matters, the era also saw the end of the financial treaty of Bretton Woods, and resulted in much confusion concerning exchange rates and the price of gold. IWC's board of directors at the time consisted of only three people, due to the crisis. The sales director and technical director had left, and others were forced to go. The owner, Hans Ernst Homberger, CFO Otto Heller and myself, we had to look for new products and new markets. The Arabian Gulf countries were just starting to open up. Kuwait, Bahrain, Qatar, Saudi Arabia, the Emirates and Oman appeared on the map. I made my first trip to this area in 1974. It was quite adventurous, practically no hotels were available, and the connections were difficult. Important business was only possible through direct visits to the ruling families. These customers were mainly interested in jewellery watches, especially in sets. For the ladies, they requested watches with matching earrings, finger rings and necklaces. In the men's domain, they were requesting watches with matching rings, key chains, cufflinks, writing instruments, all with precious and semi-precious stones set in gold or platinum. Because of the small customer base, we had to create four to six new collections every year, but these markets and these special collections saved IWC from bankruptcy. LW: We've also been told that you were the one at IWC who was instrumental in spearheading the revival of A Lange & Sohne, something you confirmed when I met you earlier this year in Singapore. What was it that made you so confident about this German brand - that has now become so respected if not loved by watch collectors the world over? HP: During the quartz-instigated crisis of the 1970s, we decided that the future of IWC Schaffhausen can only be assured with mechanical watches, knowing that a small manufacturer could never compete with producers of electronic components. We studied various possibilities, and our worst-case scenario was a small workshop with something like 30 watchmakers who would only produce special mechanical watches for collectors. We started with special pocket watches. In that arena, A Lange & Sohne still had a fantastic name among collectors for pocket watches, and so we were thinking of a collaboration with this traditional German watch manufacturer. We went to see a member of the Lange family in order to discuss eventual possibilities. We soon found out that in those earlier years cooperation would not be feasible, because many parts of A Lange & Sohne's production were settled in the former DDR (East Germany) and there was no way to get anything out of that country. But some time later, on Nov 9, 1989, honorary consul Albert Keck, CEO of VDO, Gunter Blumlein, CEO of IWC Schaffhausen, and myself had dinner together when we heard about the fall of the Berlin Wall over radio. Two weeks later the first 'ambassador' of IWC arrived in Glashutte. The rest is history, a very successful history. A few years after that, however, I must confess that I was not so pleased anymore. A lot of the money that could have been used for investments in IWC Schaffhausen had been instead absorbed by our new child. When I complained about that, Mr Keck told me that he understood my point of view but I should consider it as a patriotic duty. I told him that I perfectly understood his motivation but I only had the wrong passport, a Swiss one - not a German one. LW: Over the course of your 36-year career with IWC, you must have come across some talented and memorable watchmakers. Of these, whom (inside or outside of IWC today) would you 'talent-spot' as your chief technical advisers if you were tasked to build a totally new and exciting watch by IWC? HP: I will just mention some people from Schaffhausen, or people that have worked for IWC: Kurt Klaus, Robert Greubel, Richard Habring and Felix Baumgartner. LW: You are something of a legend at IWC for yet another important reason. We're told that at one point, you had the world's most complete collection of the brand's best pieces, more than 400 in all. Were these many pieces acquired one at a time, or did you have the opportunity to buy a large collection from someone else at some point? HP: Altogether I had over 400 IWC watches in my collection, and I collected them piece by piece. I did not buy any existing collections. I have some fond memories of how I found some of the watches. In 1992, on the occasion of the 125th anniversary of IWC Schaffhausen, we decided to open a small museum. As IWC had no collection, except a beautiful collection of antique timepieces older than our company, we decided to lend part of my private collection to the new IWC museum. A little less than 10 years later in 2001, when IWC Schaffhausen was taken over by the Richemont Group, I was asked to sell my collection to them. I sold 320 pieces because I thought that they somehow belonged to the factory. Today, I own approximately 100 IWC watches, part of which I have lent to our museum. LW: When did you start collecting IWC timepieces seriously? And, for our readers who are keen to collect, what made you decide to specialise only in IWCs? HP: I bought my first IWC watch three months after I started to work for IWC Schaffhausen. It was a red gold pocket watch from a Russian aristocrat. I decided from the start to collect only IWC watches as my father who was collecting stamps taught me that it is impossible to collect everything, and that you have to focus clearly. LW: In the same vein, what are the most important criteria you set for yourself before a watch can qualify to become part of your collection? HP: I think that I am somehow untypical for a watch collector, as I follow my sense of beauty more than I look out for technical specialities. But, of course, the most beautiful and interesting pocket watches were also the ones with the most interesting movements. LW: You said that you sold a good number out of your collection to Richemont after they bought over IWC in the year 2000 - something like 300 pieces. It must have been a very painful thing to do, choosing which ones to part with. Was this mainly because they were keen to buy over those pieces that you had already lent to the IWC Museum for public display? HP: Selling the watches was not as painful as I first thought, because it was logical that the collection would remain with IWC - as I do not know what my children would do with them one day. Some very special pieces are, of course, still in my possession. LW: We hope this is something that never happens, of course, but in theory at least, if you were told that you could keep just 10 of the IWCs that remain in your collection - which 10 would you choose? HP: Among the 10 watches I would choose are the ones that were extremely difficult to find and to buy, for example, a pocket watch from 1884 called La Magique. Only two of this type were built and sold to an aristocratic Sicilian family. It took me three years to track down the watch, and to convince the owner to sell it (at a 'human' price) to me. There are still one or two watches in the market that I have wanted to buy for years - but I am patient. I will also tell you that the Il Destriero Scafusia Grand Complication built by IWC to commemorate its 125th anniversary is certainly on my wish list. LW: OK, so you've already cornered some of the best IWCs out there. For my readers who have been inspired by your story and also want to specialise in a particular brand, what other brands in high horology do you respect enough to name as distinct collectible possibilities that they can research more deeply? HP: There are, of course, several other brands that I respect and would eventually collect. As but one example, A Lange & Sohne - for obvious reasons. But, in my opinion, it is very important to differentiate between collecting and speculating. I always buy watches because I admire them and not to speculate on them. I think we should leave speculation to the stock market. Nevertheless, in my case, IWC watches were a fantastic investment. LW: Finally, Mr Pantli, the IWC brand has a very macho, male-centric ad campaign today - seen by some as going out of their way to annoy potential lady customers (and very cleverly too). But I cannot resist asking if you see IWC surprising us by offering ladies an exclusive line of nicely tailored pieces anytime soon? HP: IWC today is certainly a man's watch, but it is also very much appreciated by ladies. In the Nineties, we decided for various reasons to focus on men's watches with the appropriate positioning. But to answer your question: Will there ever be one day nicely tailored ladies timepieces from IWC Schaffhausen? Never say never. Cheers!

Steel yourself for these high horology delights! An industrial-looking, 44mm open-worked tourbillon watch is offered by Jaeger-LeCoultre, with views of ruthenium-treated bridges and mainplate. They flex their considerable production muscle to celebrate another collaboration with Aston Martin with this 300-piece edition. The Amvox 3 tourbillon GMT comes embellished with rose gold touches front and back and is housed in a very special ceramic case - fashioned at over 2,000 degrees Celsius from exotic materials like zirconium and yttrium oxides. Jaeger-LeCoultre also offers an especially large selection this year to celebrate their 175th anniversary. Housed in distinctive livery of rose gold and chocolate, their Master Collection 1833 shows off four of their signature watches: 575 pieces each of the Master Ultra-Thin and the Master Grand Tourbillon, and 175 pieces each of the Master Eight Days Perpetual Squellette and Master Minute Repeater. Not satisfied to stop there, they commemorate the anniversary with a Memovox tribute to their Polaris Dive watch with audible underwater alarm from the Sixties, in a choice of platinum or stainless steel - paying tribute to the original 1965 and 1968 versions, 65 pieces and 768 pieces respectively. The latter, shown here, is distinguished by baton hands and trapeze-shaped hour markers, both distinctively luminescent. FOR those with a soft spot for rose gold, we are delighted to report that Chopard's high horology arm LUC is presenting their ultra-handsome Steel Wings tourbillon in a 100-piece limited edition this year. Patek Philippe kicked off proceedings in Basel this year by introducing their 5450 Advanced Research annual calendar in platinum, the third in their silicium series. This time around, the 5450 features an all-new Pulsomax escapement delivered in lubrication-free, temperature-resistant Silinvar. This is the revolutionary material first explained to our readers by Patek president Philippe Stern in BT's 2006 watch supplement. This year's new Pulsomax escapement completes the picture, consisting of lever and escape wheel with new geometries - in addition to the Spiromax balance spring first presented in 2006. All three are made of silinvar, and available in a very limited 300 pieces. Bulgari celebrates the 20th Anniversary of their trademark gents sports watch line called Diagono with an exciting line-up of new offerings in 2008. If you like rose gold on brown croco, for example, take a look at this ruggedly handsome 42mm Phases de Lunes offering: day and date in the two arcs left and right, plus the phase of the moon in a third one above six o'clock. 350 pieces. This year, sports watch favourite IWC celebrates their 140th anniversary with a re-issue of watches from their six flagship lines: Pilot, Portuguese, Ingenieur, Aquatimer, Da Vinci and Portofino. Christened the Vintage collection, 500 pieces of each will be offered in precious platinum, with numbered pieces up to 140 only available as six-piece sets. We show off two of the six here - by most accounts the hot favourites for collectors here in Singapore and elsewhere. The 46mm Portofino moonphase (in homage to reference 5251) and the 44mm Portuguese (in homage to the first IWC pocket watch of 1939) both hand-wound. And here's the nice thing - the stainless steel pieces here are not limited edition watches. How considerate, thanks very much IWC! Cheers!

VAN Cleefs & Arpels has cleverly borrowed the charm bracelet for their Charms line. Their Alhambra four-leaf clover logo runs around the side of the case, and can be 'stopped' at any chosen hour marker as a convenient reminder of your next appointment. To make an even more persuasive case to the ladies, there's the convenience of a quick-change mechanism for the leather or satin strap. You get to choose between variations of white or pink gold, a 32 or 38mm case, and between two or three concentric rings of diamonds. The brand extends the same concept to another line called Timeless. This one has a charm attached to the crown that twinkles pleasingly with the help of a strategically placed briolette-cut diamond. The more modest white gold version featured here has more than two carats of baguette diamonds set into the case, but there's also a high-jewellery version with more than 15 carats adorning the case and matching white gold bracelet. Piaget's Secret Cuff also has a mighty posh version available with almost 50 carats worth of diamonds, but the more wearable two-plus carat version shown here would be perfect for that black satin evening dress, doncha think? What the heck, you only live once, get both! Only Louis Vuitton can ensure that even trunk corners won't look out of place in this new ladies' watch they call the Emprise. That emblematic shape is used to trim the white croco where it hooks up with the watch lugs. Of course, if you think pink gold and glitter only would look good against black, they are quite delighted to make you change your mind about that too. And what self-respecting discussion of ladies' watches can be complete without a Cartier, especially if it's anything like this 36.5mm medium-sized version of their Ballon Bleu line? This self-winding number comes embellished with two rows of diamonds weighing in at about 1.3 carats on its bezel. It's clad in a striking combination of pink gold and purple croco. Maurice Lacroix extends that hint of purple - a colour some tell me is almost as popular as pink with the ladies - to the 38mm limited edition piece of theirs called the Starside Sparkling Date. As the name implies, the date is announced with a diamond-accented pointer that snaps back at the start of a new month. Powered by an automatic movement, the watch has another innovative feature: a moonphase indication around three o'clock, based on an eccentric revolving disc and a slice of moonstone. For more petite wrists, we offer this Fendi B watch, which comes with a striking red galuchat strap that makes the tastefully applied shine on the buckle stand out quite nicely. For their 150th anniversary this year, Vulcain presents a love story in mother of pearl, called the Vulcanova Butterfly Lovers. The name recalls the famous Chinese love story by the same name. Powered by an automatic movement, the sweet pink and grey version shown here is one of several variants to be made in numbers of 150 pieces each. All presented in a pretty music box to capture a lady's heart. Guys, are you listening?

BEAUTIFUL and useful at the same time, Van Cleef & Arpel's Jour et Nuit (Day and Night) watch has a disc that makes a complete revolution every 24 hours, revealing a sun paved with yellow sapphires during the day, and a moon paved with diamonds for night-time hours. Celebrating their 175th anniversary this year, Jaeger-LeCoultre introduces the first ever auto Reverso for the ladies, with a rotor sitting quite pretty in the centre of the dial. The larger dimensions of this Squadra Lady Duetto case help make this innovation possible, but these ladies' watches now also offer quick-change options for croco strap, stainless steel or rubber strap. Glashutte Original would like to propose Nightshade, an automatic tourbillon watch which is framed by 344 baguette diamonds, and mounted on a galuchat (sting ray) strap. And how about this ladies: An in-house automatic movement from JeanRichard, which powers this 38mm stainless steel Bressel watch with a little French whimsy. Three dials mark the time (at 12 o'clock), the date (three o'clock) and the power reserve (seven o'clock) on white mother of pearl. Our quite inadequate French suggests the pretty swirling sentence might mean 'I like the madness a little too much!' But tell us if we're wrong. If you've enjoyed this month's Beijing Olympics, Omega can help you remember the occasion with their DeVille Co-axial chronograph model, featured here. The watch comes with a mother of pearl dial and tastefully set diamonds, including one on the crown. For a special touch, it matches the colours of the hour markers with the five Olympic rings at the end of the second hand. On the other hand, if you're more the jet-setting shopper type - and who wouldn't like to be - Girard-Perregaux offers you a 2008 variation of their World Time classic in the form of the ww.tc 24 Hour Shopping watch, shown here. It lists time zones in terms of your favourite shopping streets all over the world - how clever! Thank you GP, for including not only places like the Ginza in Tokyo and Fauborg Saint-Honore in Paris, but also Orchard Road here on our little red dot.

A SIMPLER three-hand version of Patek Philippe's Nautilus sports watch is also made available with just a touch of bling. Clad in white gold case and bracelet, the 5713/1 wears a very modest 1.4 carats worth of diamonds on its bezel. Zenith, a brand usually associated with sporty men's watches, would like you to consider this ladies' black mother of pearl auto with a touch of diamonds. It's also a very wearable 34mm for the Asian wrist. Audemars Piguet's Millenary Pianoforte Watch recalls a piano's keys in contrasted mother-of-pearl, which houses the brand's Calibre 3120 self-winding movement. Case, lugs, bezel and dial are set with almost three carats of diamonds. Caviar anyone? Ebel recalls this most indulgent of fish roe with a very limited 10-piece edition of their Beluga line in which the black pearls are the stars of the dial. It's matched with a galuchat strap and wrapped up in a 3.8-carat swathe of white and black diamonds. Van Cleef & Arpels' Fleurette offers flowers to the ladies by surrounding a square or rectangular black lacquer dial with diamonds set in a delicate floral theme. This year, we are proud to present yet another two elegant creations from the House of Cartier's Cartier Libre collection - an area where their artisans are given a completely free hand to express their creativity. The first result, the Noeud watch, recalls a very Japanese obi knot tied at the waist of what gaijins call a Happy Coat, and it displays time horizontally rather than vertically. Another example, the fan-shaped Froissee, spills out onto the right side of its satin strap. Pleats of brilliant diamonds surround a triangular dial, which in turn puts forth only the Roman numeral 'three' to define exactly where the owner should get her bearings for the time. Cheers!

Ladies, by now you would probably consider exploding numbers pretty passe, but what if we were to tell you that Jaquet Droz has a version this year which explodes Roman numerals in precious enamel - and you get to choose between black numerals on white enamel (as shown here) or the reverse combination. Especially for you, this Petite Heure or Small Hours version is made available in a more manageable 41mm size as well. If that's a size you can handle ladies, Chanel would like to tell you that they have re-worked Audemars Piguet's calibre 3120 movement to bring you the J12 Calibre 3125 featured here. It's presented in yellow gold and black ceramic, with a matching auto rotor in the latter material. Rapid date correction and hacking seconds complete the picture. Hacking seconds means that the second hand stops when you pull out the crown, to allow much more precise time-setting. Graham has decided to really dress up 40 of their 46mm Swordfish auto sports chronos with 40 Mandarin garnets and no fewer than 318 pieces of precious stones weighing more than four carats: Diamonds, emeralds, rubies as well as blue, pink and yellow sapphires. Presenting the Graham Swordfish Ali Baba. Hats off to Breguet, who seem to have a knack for repeatedly scoring firsts with their inimitable Queen of Naples line! 2008's Cameo version of this egg-shaped watch breaks new ground with a delightfully multi-layered, multi-hued dial in the form of sunflower petals carved by hand from seashells. The white petals are carved out on one part of the shell, while the brown shades of the shell provide the contrast in the other parts of this beautiful dial. Check out the close-up taken by our friend Jaw in Basel, Switzerland earlier this year. We're informed that standing ovations (ours happily included) should go to the craftsmen of a town called Torre del Greco in Naples. High horology meets high jewellery in this 10-piece Dior Sapphire cristal tourbillon. Almost 16 carats of internally flawless VVS diamonds combine with white gold and lots of sapphire crystal - including bridges, tourbillon carriage, grey crystal on the dial, black on the bracelet - to decorate this 42mm mechanical watch with 80-hour power reserve. Have you heard of Zalium, ladies? It's an alloy credited to Ronald Winston, the chemical engineer son of Harry Winston, the famed jeweller. Hypo-allergenic, harder than titanium and almost as light, this grey metal emanates an aura as intriguing as that of the other rare element, tantalum. To make it even harder to resist, the beautiful Lady Z that the brand introduced in Basel this year has an interesting two-disc arrangement fashioned in aventurine for the moonphase, on either side of its signature 'shuriken' second hand in metallic blue (The shuriken is a star-shaped dart of the kind used by Japanese ninjas). On top of that, it's not too large at 36mm, and boasts 100m water resistance to boot. You can wear this one everywhere! Cheers!

FOR lovers of bling, or ladies who have always admired their hubby's favourite Patek Philippe sports watch: For you, the Nautilus 5722, featured here in the white gold auto version. This baby boasts 32 baguette diamonds weighing almost six carats on its bezel. All that, and date, moonphase and power reserve. You like rubies? We got rubies! Actually, we've got rubies combined in three different ways with white gold, satin and lots of diamonds - via three high jewellery versions of Bulgari's 36mm Astrale, 35 mm Parentisi and 31mm Assioma-D lines. Piaget's Limelight line adopts a Paris-New York theme this year. One of the most eye-catching models for us was the Altiplano Double Heu. It comes with a working hour-glass outside which doubles up as a representation of the Eiffel Tower's arches. 'Finger-nail' the side of the case to lift up the hour-glass segment and check the time inside. For even more bling, check out their Limelight high jewellery cuff piece inspired by the spires and the wires of Paris. More than 14 carats of diamonds cloak this work of jewellery art. And, having seen the rose gold version in the flesh, we can certainly testify that the glittering double-ellipse on this new Chopard jewellery watch is quite stunning. The white gold version of the Xtravaganza is shown off here, with matching white satin strap. For something more familiar, there's the brand's signature Happy Sports chrono Mark II, presented here with five carats of gorgeous baguette diamonds, white gold and black croco. And if you hanker for even more, how about an all-bling Chopard piece? The mechanical timepiece shown here is dripping with almost 25 carats of brilliant-cut and trapeze-cut diamonds. Imagine an autumn leaf floating on a 'sea' of 163 D-grade, internally flawless baguette diamonds, with just two small windows at three o'clock on this automatic watch with jumping hours and minutes. Delaneau's Christina Thevanez, who delighted us with her passion for enamel in BT's 2007 watch supplement, shows off another facet of her creative skills this year with a watch she calls the Amazone Feuille de Houx. Almost 15 carats of bling here, ladies. Cheers!

It was conducted by Business Times (Singapore) with a local (Singaporean) watch collector.

WE all remember our first time. We remember the excitement leading up to the big moment. Will it be as good as we've heard? Will I be any good or will I embarrass myself? The anticipation - perhaps even a touch of anxiety - all add to the richness of experience that without a doubt makes up the most memorable times of our lives. I am sure you know the kind of special experiences I am talking about. They describe the varied significant moments in life - from losing of one's virginity to starting one's first job. In the realm of watch collecting, we would be talking about a first visit to the annual watch fairs held in Basel and Geneva each year. In early April this year, I finally succumbed to the temptation and headed off to Geneva for the SIHH (Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie). While many folks might be more familiar with the BaselWorld Fair, I had specific reasons for choosing SIHH. As with many things in life, it is important to choose the right 'partner'. One does not want his or her 'first time' to be with the wrong one. While Basel is open to the public, SIHH is for the industry, the trade community and by invitation only. It is smaller in scope and scale and therefore, I would say that it is far more manageable to navigate and ultimately to enjoy. Personally, it also was the showcase for many of my favourite manufactures. In addition to having the wonderful Richemont Group brands, SIHH exhibitors also include Audemars Piguet and a few others. Finally, a number of superior independent brands choose to exhibit in Geneva during SIHH, including a favourite of mine, Richard Mille. Now, to carry my tongue-in-cheek analogy a bit further, it is always wise to get a little advice from your more experienced friends. I am extremely fortunate to have a couple of good buddies, who provided me with some great guidance and assistance. Both are iconic figures in the global watch community and they made sure that I did not commit too many faux pas. They were the best possible 'wingmen' I could possibly have. My advice, to anyone considering the prospect of attending either of the fairs for the first time, is to enlist the help of a seasoned attendee. Someone whom you trust, and who knows you well, will prove to be invaluable in helping to make your fair experience as enjoyable as possible. Another piece of advice is to be realistic in your objectives and expectations. Don't try to see and do everything in one day. Prioritise and pace yourself, since the exhibits can be a bit overwhelming at first glance, especially on your initial entry to the Salon. For me, I selected the brands that most captured my attention and interest, and made sure that they were on my schedule. Among the many spectacular timepieces on display in Geneva, there were some particularly memorable ones. Our very first stop was the Audemars Piguet booth and it proved to be a perfect introduction to the SIHH. One of the most impressive pieces that we saw was this year's bold and stunning Royal Oak Carbon Concept watch. Following last year's very successful introduction of a forged carbon case in the Royal Oak Offshore Alinghi Team watch, this new piece is the first of its kind to incorporate the same carbon element in both the case and the movement. It was both a technically and aesthetically impressive demonstration of fine watchmaking. I readily admit to being an unabashed fan of Vacheron Constantin, a manufacture that has created some of the world's most treasured timepieces over the past 250-plus years. This year they unveiled - in my opinion at least - the highlight of the fair. The new, wonderfully innovative Quai de l'Ile line of watches marks a milestone for the brand as it combines some very contemporary elements of haute horlogerie together with the traditions of fine watchmaking that Vacheron Constantin has long been renowned for. It is truly ingenious how they have introduced technology from currency production into a wristwatch. I think that would-be counterfeiters have finally met their match. Among the many exciting displays and presentations, the most impressive to me was found at A. Lange & S

Above: Some of the collector's watches Q: Can you tell us how your passion for watches was kindled? A: I developed an interest after I started working in my early 20s. I can still remember my first purchase of an Omega Constellation that cost me more than $2,000; I thought it was the most handsome-looking watch then. My serious interest was ignited after a chance encounter with a gentleman during one of my business trips to Korea in 1988, during the Seoul Olympics. I was waiting in the departure lounge of Seoul's Kimpo Airport when I noticed a tall, distinguished-looking Caucasian ushered in by airport personnel. Later on, that same gentleman was escorted to the seat right next to me in the plane, after all the other passengers had boarded. I started the conversation by noting that airport security was tighter than usual probably due to the Olympics, and this gentleman said politely that he was used to it. No wonder: It turned out he was former US vice-president Spiro Agnew. Anyway, we had an interesting discussion thereafter. I noticed he was wearing a steel Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, a watch I was familiar with because golf pro Nick Faldo was its ambassador - and I was newly addicted to golf. He was kind enough to remove it and show me the watch. That was when I told myself I had to own a watch like that. Just before landing, he said to me: 'Young man, I enjoyed the conversation we've had and I wish to give you a little souvenir.' With that, he reached into his bag and handed me a box embossed with the seal of the vice-president of United States of America, and his signature was engraved on the pen inside. When we landed in Hong Kong, he was escorted out of the plane before the rest of us, but what a memorable encounter it was for me! Four years later, in 1992, I eventually bought my first significant watch - a brand new Royal Oak steel gold in 1992 - when my earnings allowed me the luxury. Q: On that note, can you share with our BT readers some of the other highlights of the collection you have built up since that time, some 16 years ago? A: OK, initially I went after watches that I considered iconic and representative of the brand. Audemars Piguet's Royal Oak, Lange's Lange 1, Patek Philippe's Nautilus, Glashutte Original's Senator Perpetual, the Rolex Submariner, Panerai's Luminor Submersible, Girard-Perregaux's Ferrari chronograph and so on. Later on, I went after specialisation. Omega Broad Arrow for its clutch-operated chronograph movement, Rolex Daytona for its evergreen design, Patek's perpetual calendar 5059 for the officer casing style, UN Sonata II for the innovative 24-hour alarm setting and highly unusual cathedral gong. In addition, Patek's Annual Calenders from 5035, 5135, 5396 and most recently, its extremely hard to come by Advanced Research piece - the 5350. I have to admit that, from time to time, I am attracted purely by the looks. In this genre I would include the Cartier Santos 100, Panerai Radiomir, the 50th anniversary black enamel dial version of the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch classic, and other Patek classics like its Travel Time in platinum and Gondolo Cabriolet. However, for me the ultimate classical expression of beauty has to be my Patek 5970. One can get intoxicated by just looking at the amazingly complex and beautifully finished movement. For some reason, its predecessor, the 3970, attracted me less - even though the movement is exactly the same. It is probably due to the larger size of the 5970 and the superbly crafted elegant dial with two shades of silver-grey. Q: An impressive collection indeed, our congratulations. So, all told, would you say you make your purchases based on looks, emotion or movement characteristics? A: I guess it has to be a bit of everything. If a watch is not appealing to me, it means I don't like its look and that's the end of the story; if the pull is very strong, then the emotional (irrational) factor takes precedence. I am less technically inclined so the movement characteristics (which are different from the functions they carry) don't have to play a major role in my consideration but I do have one requirement: I have a personal perceived value for every watch. These days, I find it increasingly difficult to justify to myself the prices that many brands are asking for their watches. It seems to me they are trying to make it sound like watch-making is far more complicated and demanding than other highly sophisticated industries. Yet, the latter do not seem to charge the same kind of king's ransom for their end-products. Q: Do you have any interesting stories to share about any of your watches? A: I do believe that buying a watch from time to time provides good therapy. One morning a few years ago, I was boiling mad with my staff in Korea. Thereafter, when I was out at lunch with a few watch enthusiast friends, we stopped by a watch shop and there and then I just picked up a Rolex GMT II. This surprised all my friends as I had been reluctant to go to the shop in the first place. I must say I felt a lot better after the purchase and, thankfully, this watch became not my abused item, but my regular travel companion to countries outside our time zone. But seriously, from time to time the process of acquiring a watch is far more interesting than the final act itself. This has probably got to do with anticipation, which is very much psychological in nature. Q: Does any watch in your collection hold special significance for you? A: Not really, I am not a sentimental sort of person so most of my purchases are not tied to any special occasion - except for the above instance where frustration prompted my impulsive buying. That doesn't happen too often though; otherwise I would have ended up with thousands of watches by now. Q: You have amassed a large and diverse collection of Patek Philippe watches; what is it that draws you to this brand in particular? A: Well, having been collecting watches all these years, and being a banker myself, I find Patek has the most significant appeal that others would find extremely hard to duplicate at this moment: Prestige. This prestige comes from three basic factors: Firstly, the legitimacy of a long lineage; secondly, innovation and technical prowess; and, thirdly, movements exclusively used in their own watches. Granted, there were or are a few movements that do not originate entirely from Patek. For example, the Nautilus using a JLC base, and the CH 27 movement constructed from a Lemania base. However, these are also movements that are exclusive to them, and ones that have been improved in-house over time. The result is that their reliability and beauty have taken root so deeply that they have become synonymous with Patek's intrinsic values. Such prestige will naturally create excellent demand, which in turn explains why Patek prices can have such good holding power. From a financial point of view, if you are going to spend a lot of money for a watch, you will feel a lot better if its value does not depreciate too quickly, and Patek appears to be the only one at present that commands such a position. Naturally, it will be an added bonus if it appreciates, but the first aim is to minimise rapid depreciation. Another thing that Patek under the Stern family has done very correctly and positively has been to uphold the practice of an ownership register. Since the company's inception, the owner of each and every Patek watch has had the opportunity to register his purchase with the firm. This tradition, once interrupted, will be forever lost. Yes, some upmarket brands have tried to start again this tradition but, just like a record, once it is broken, it can never be put together again. They have to re-start from scratch. Truly amazing Q: I understand you own two Patek Philippe cloisonne enamel dial watches. What made you choose an enamelled masterpiece instead of a complicated wristwatch? A: For two very simple reasons: artistry and scarcity. While many people are aware of the cloisonne enamel vases or wares produced by Chinese craftsmen over thousands of years, it is technically much harder to produce the artwork in the small confines of a wrist-watch. For the Chinese mythical cloisonne enamel horse that I own, what's truly amazing is that the original came from a Ming or Qing Dynasty porcelain bowl - reproduced by Patek, colour for colour and stroke for stroke, in cloisonne style. The original bowl is probably 10 to 15 times larger than the size of the watch, so you can imagine the degree of difficulty to reproduce it today. As for my other piece, which is part of the Fish series (or what some would call the Nemo series), it is a combination of miniature painting and cloisonne, where the drawings and colours are so vibrant, vivid and real that one has to see it in the flesh to appreciate what I am talking about. Well, I'm truly grateful to Patek's agent in Singapore, Geneva Master Time, for the privilege and opportunity to acquire them. Patek only produced three sets of Horses (each set consists of four different designs and colours) and 10 sets of the Fish series (also four different fish for each set). These watches are indeed art pieces reproduced by Patek, just to remind themselves that they must possess such artistic ability as an integrated part of their history. Q: Besides Patek, are there any other brands that speak to you - and why? A: Oh, there are many brands that speak to me, and I would love to acquire them, if only I can force myself to accept them within my own levels of 'perceived value'. I do have within my collection Breguet, which produces the best blued steel hands, Vacheron Constantin for understated elegance, the Chronoswiss Quarter Repeater for its lovely porcelain white dial and chimes, and IWC for the unusual ceramic Double chrono. If price is no object, I am fascinated by Urwerk's Hammerhead Shark, which epitomises the avant-garde in concept and creativity and with a unique presentation. F P Journe is another brand that has created its own identity, and is a little snobbish. For many others, sad to say, my view is that they are merely playing with designs on dials and cases, and sometimes with materials, and I have my doubts they will be remembered in time to come. I have no gripes with such brands in the market today, if only they would refrain from pricing their watches so unrealistically. Q: On that important note, would you like to say more about the fast-rising prices of watches, both new and on the secondary market, Patek Philippes in particular? A: One word: Madness. For me, it's a case of many watchmakers taking us, the buyers (especially the novices), for a ride. We are thoroughly exploited by the commercials and exaggerated claims. Come on: Just because you buy a brand that existed 100 years ago and stick a tried and tested ETA movement into a case, that doesn't mean the brand instantly carries a rich history that commands premium pricing. At the same time, we have a situation where many upmarket brands are claiming they are true manufactures of movements, and are therefore justified in asking ridiculous prices. In my mind, for a brand to take over a small independent movement maker, it's only a business decision, and cannot be looked at in the same light as if the brand has been making its own movements from the day of its inception. For every new calibre a brand is producing, there's so much hue and cry, as if it's a big scientific breakthrough. We therefore have to be very sensible and selective in our approach. At the end of the day, always bear in mind that an expensive watch is not essential or necessary - it is more about affordability. I wish the watchmakers can resist the constant temptation of exploitation, and instead try to deliver fair value to buyers, if they are thinking about captivating young and new watch buyers in the long term - something they must do in order to ensure the industry's continuity. To a large extent, the Pateks of the watch world need to strategise too, and not create a backlash by pushing their prices over the top. Their priority should be to continue to retain a bunch of top-class skilled watchmakers, with high motivation to produce top-notch watches with zero defects. From another perspective, however, it's difficult to control the current irrational behaviour of some buyers who are directly responsible for chasing prices up, making the watches highly speculative items. The good thing, as I have said earlier, is that most buyers do not need to indulge in this form of activity, as watches are not essential items. If they want to speculate, they should go to the stock or property market, where the returns can be far more significant. Q: As a collector with long experience, what do you think are the big trends in the watch industry in the next few years? A: Instead of giving a reply to this question, which many more eminent collectors can answer, perhaps what I can do is to tell new enthusiasts not to fall for limited editions, which watchmakers have a tendency to produce to justify high prices. Honestly, right now most of these limited editions do not mean a thing because it is very unlikely that you will make a gain after purchasing. You should base your decision to buy on whether you like it, and whether the asking price is fair exchange for the pleasure of owning it. Don't even think of making a gain - it is an illusion most of the time. In any event, unless a watch is worth well into the high five to six figures, any gain is too small to make an impact on one's wealth. Q: What do you consider eminently collectable these days, but is still missing in your own collection? A: I would love to have a Patek minute repeater and tourbillon, but that would mean I'd need to either continue working for the next five years (with no disaster or calamity in the world economy) or stop buying other watches for a couple of years. I am more of a traditionalist when it comes to watches and, unfortunately, have a pre-conceived notion of 'value for money' for the watches that I come across. Don't get me wrong, I think any steel Rolex sports watch is an excellent choice, for its functionality and versatility (both formal and casual) and - most importantly - their price increases are more controlled and gradual, spread out over a long period of time. Sadly, however, some others have tried to run before they can walk, when they have not yet passed the important test of market durability, something that can only be earned after an adequate passage of time. Q: Over the years, what have you learnt NOT to do when making a purchase decision for a watch? A: That is easy: Never compare yourself with others. In short, never be tempted to buy watches that are beyond your punching weight. You purchase a watch only because of the pleasure you may derive from it, and because you have the spare cash to pay for it. Just like owning a car. Yes, many of us wish to have a Porsche or Ferrari or Bentley, but we may settle for something sensible, where we feel the money is reasonably spent. Never compare yourself with people who have the means to acquire the top-end watches. I cannot - hand on heart - say no, you can't do impulsive buying, as I have done it several times myself. There's nothing wrong with it as long as it does not break your bank or delay your monthly utility payments. Find out more about the particular watch (which is an exciting process) before any purchase. Hold it, wear it and test it (especially if it is a chronograph), then decide. The perception of intrinsic value of a watch will vary significantly from one to another. Ultimately the choice is yours, and it's about who you choose to listen to.

If you have the patience to wait, the firm of Vacheron Constantin (VC) is willing to help you build a watch according to your specifications, and have you along during the whole exciting process - with personalised Internet and hotline access to your watchmakers in their Geneva atelier. Their value proposition, according to the man who heads up VC's bespoke Ateliers Cabinotiers division, is that a 250-year watch-making pedigree should have some positive effect on future value - especially when backed up by both technical and service guarantees from this manufacture. It won't be cheap of course, but it sure sounds like a lot of fun, especially if you're the kind who likes to supervise challenging projects like the building of your home from top to bottom. Based on the amount of complexity undertaken, Dominique Bernaz has divided the scope of work into three broad categories, although he tells us that in practice, the three will often overlap. In ascending degrees of difficulty, Category I would primarily involve the modification of a regular production watch from VC's current collection; for Category II, we would be talking about building a piece unique (a one-only watch) timepiece using existing VC movements and modules; and, in Category III, we would be talking about commissioning the design and construction of everything from scratch. In terms of time frame, that depends on how much work we are talking about but, based on what he already has on his plate, Mr Bernaz tells us that it's unlikely to take less than a year from start to finish. So how exactly does one go about ordering a watch, we asked him. Here's how it works. The client first has to commission the work, either at a VC boutique or through a retailer, and VC undertakes never to replicate such a commissioned piece for others. An estimate of time and costs follows, but only after an in-house committee is satisfied the final product will have a distinctive VC 'look'. Thereafter, a contract is signed between VC and the buyer, at which point a deposit is payable based on a sliding scale, starting with 50 per cent for contracts valued at up to 100,000 Swiss francs (S$129,473). Once the work has begun, the client will have personalised Internet and hotline access to the VC atelier in Geneva, and a monthly progress report delivered in a bound book. Finally, when the watch is ready for delivery, the client pays the balance due to VC. Mr Bernaz informs us that since he first proposed this bespoke service to VC's top collectors in late 2006, he has signed no fewer than 50 contracts, most of them in either Category I or III, and had delivered at least a dozen completed works by early 2008. 'Categories were used at the beginning to make people understand what bespoke could be,' he explains. 'For us, in fact, they are all one of a kind, and require the same type of work with, of course, more or less new development. The basic challenge here for us is that we are talking about something set aside from the regular production process. What I can say is that delivery of our confirmed orders will take place between 2008 and 2013. But if you are commissioning a project today, it's unlikely to be completed before 2012.' And, in terms of full-time manpower resources committed to his atelier, Mr Bernaz told us that he has two technicians who develop the project on paper from A to Z and do the necessary follow-up. In addition, there is a four-man team who builds the watches - two watchmakers, a technician and a constructor - as well as the flexibility to call on VC's other resources if required. All said and done, the best part of the story is that we managed to persuade Mr Bernaz that it would be much more fun for our readers if we could offer them a real-life example of a watch made to specification, rather than just talk about it in the abstract. So we sat down and researched some possibilities, and in the table that goes with this story, we detail the specs that we threw at VC, and the watch we challenged them to make for us. To ensure that our object of desire retained a modicum of VC DNA, we drew our inspiration from a pocket watch that they made in the 1920s. BT readers are the first to see this, so here's the fun part - you are free to order this unique watch if you want to. Just return the favour by telling our readers all your experiences along the way. Cost: 800,000 to 900,000 Swiss francs. Time frame: Probably not before 2012. Pictured here below are three variations that VC drew up for us based on the requirements we set out for them. Go for it! Cheers

WOULD you consider a watch complicated if it has seven hands, three of which snap back through their arcs of travel? If you do, then this Longines Master Collection Retrograde certainly qualifies. Besides the three main hands for hours, minutes and seconds, four other hands sweep through arcs to report day, date, week, a second time zone and power reserve. Rose gold combines with folding clasp, transparent case back and dark brown croco to make the whole a handsome 44mm proposition indeed. Martin Braun, a German watchmaker who is now part of the Franck Muller family, introduces Kephalos who, in Greek mythology, was the lover of Eos. Some may recall that Eos, the Goddess of the Sun, was what he named a classic watch of his back in 2001. This 44mm rose gold watch at first glance appears to be nothing more than a classic full calendar watch - which is quite different from a perpetual calendar. But we're told that it's in fact something in between, an annual calendar along the lines of those first made popular by Patek Philippe. In this case, you only have to adjust the date between end-February and March 1, and the watch movement knows how to adjust for the difference in number of days for the other 11 months of the year. On top of that, the moonphase is somewhat more exciting because an extra little counter between 7 and 8 o'clock indicates whether we're headed towards a full moon or new moon. If you're the kind who loves to figure out number puzzles, you'll find it a pleasant mind-bender to crack the code of Pierre Kunz's Infinity Looping watch. Try and figure out how to read the time if you can. There is only one red hand to tell the time, and it sits on an arm extending out from a toothed ring. The red numbers represent the 12-hour markers while the dots in the looping tracks represent five-minute intervals. Now, have fun reading the time off this clever watch: In the photo, the red hand points to 12. Fifteen minutes on, the hand will move to the black '15' by which you'll know the time is 12.15. (Refer to the red 12 to read the hour.) Now try to figure how to read 3.30 or 6.45 ... You'll find out when you choose from 44mm red gold, white gold, platinum or stainless steel versions of this auto watch. de Grisogono, meanwhile, would like to introduce us to their version of a peek-a-boo watch this year, which they call the Otturatore. A cuckoo-clock shaped window can be moved with the light-touch pushers (which sit on either side of the crown) to report - one at a time - four different functions from each of the four quarters. Starting clockwise from the 12 o'clock position, we have the moonphase, then the date, followed by the power reserve in hours and finally the passing seconds at 9 o'clock. Think about the triangular shape of Switzerland's 'Toblerone' chocolates and you will get the basic idea which inspired this very limited three-faced watch by Cartier. Housed in an extra-large version of the brand's Santos case, the Santos Triple 100's dial opens and closes with a horizontal shutter-like effect to reveal, in turn: a simple white dial with Roman numerals for hour markers; a mosaic of black sapphires and brilliant diamonds and, finally, an engraved tiger's head. Cheers!

Thank you BT once again! It's refreshing to read such insightful and interesting review on watch that is not exactly on the mainstream. Salute!

GRANDE Complication watches would be those with at least two important complications, or special pieces which seek to conquer significant new horological frontiers. Patek Philippe celebrates both past and future in terms of their Grande Complication watches this year. The classic perpetual calendar-chronograph combination that made the brand a household name for the ultra-rich in the Forties and Fifties may well be celebrated for the last time this year in the form of a yellow gold perpetual calendar-chronograph 5970. White gold and rose gold versions have already been discontinued, and this one isn't expected to last very long either, by most accounts. Another Patek classic called the 5016 - which combines perpetual calendar with tourbillon and minute repeater. Their all-new 5207P boasts the same combination of complications in platinum - but with improvements on the technical side. And there was only one piece in the Basel showcase. In this latest version, the perpetual calendar functions are all supposed to jump instantaneously at midnight - day, date, moonphase and, if necessary, the month as well. Two discreet windows on either side of the moonphase function as day-night and leap-year indicators. IWC offers a rose gold alternative to the Patek 5207 in their 140th anniversary year, but here a chronograph replaces the tourbillon in the 5207. This latest incarnation of their own Grande Complication recalls the lines of their Il Destriero Scafusia, which was launched to celebrate their 125th anniversary in 1993 and, likewise, boasts the brand's trademark four-digit year display. For the Breguet featured on this page would suggest that it's a perpetual calendar watch. But the tell-tale sign that it's something much more lies in the faint outline of a slide lever peeping out just beyond 9 o'clock. More importantly, we are happy to testify that the sound has improved from its previous watches of this genre. Jaeger-LeCoultre's ground-breaking Gyro is the timepiece that held us all entranced four years ago with a tourbillon cage that rotated through multiple dimensions. The Gyro II celebrates the brand's 175th anniversary this year. It features a spherical tourbillon cage in a Reverso case which houses a balance spring pulsating in cylindrical fashion rather than side to side - something first patented by English watchmaker John Arnold in 1782. Audemars Piguet

Some interesting stuff I read: PIAGET'S moving tourbillion cage is this year housed in their Polo case and offers a choice of New York or Paris sights on both the dial and on the sides of the case. Check out the Statue of Liberty and New York's skyscrapers that are shown off here. Roger Dubuis goes to the other extreme, as if to tell us that less can sometimes be more, in this Flying Skeleton Tourbillon they call the KingSquare02. Breguet, will no doubt delight their many Russian, Arab and Rapper fans with this high-jewellery version of their popular tourbillion watch christened the Classique 1808. Pink gold and no less than 706 diamonds on the case contrast nicely with the steel tourbillion carriage and black rhodium dial. There is another rendition sans glitter and bling, in the tonneau lines of Breguet Heritage line. It makes its considerable presence felt with a platinum case which is curved along both lengths - no mean feat with this notoriously tough metal. Engine-turned dial is standard for the brand, and sits just beneath hour markers carved out in silvered gold. Franck Muller aims to please this year with a manually-wound tourbillon which throws in a big date window just below 12 o'clock, the day of the week in a 9 o'clock sub-dial, and a second time zone across from that. Elsewhere, talk over the past year that the Richemont luxury group had bought the production resources of Roger Dubuis has been confirmed, and the first tangible result has been swift to follow. In Geneva this year, Richemont's flagship brand Cartier introduced its first watch to bear the Geneva Seal of horological excellence associated with Roger Dubuis timepieces. This large 46mm flying tourbillon is nevertheless unmistakably Cartier, housed in a pink gold Ballon Bleu case with signature blue cabochon crown, and a stylised Cartier 'C' - the sharp side of which reports the passing seconds as the tourbillon makes one complete revolution per minute. Stablemate A Lange & Sohne breaks new ground with a tourbillon version of their rectangular Cabaret watch which offers a stop-seconds feature not normally associated with tourbillon watches - for the rather awkward reason that it would take a lot of energy to set the tourbillon cage once it's been stopped. Lange technology allows them to stop the balance wheel inside the cage, rather than the cage itself. Richard Mille has something else in mind. His version, called the RM020, is more square than round, and comes with a tourbillon and a 10-day power reserve. It's intended to swing from the waist with the help of a massive chain of titanium to match the central case band. Indeed, it looks like something that David would borrow to slay Goliath - if not for the fact that he would probably love it too much to throw it at an ogre!

hmmm, and here I thought certain watches' values appreciate over time. Like PAM and Rolex.

I have got to set my standard higher. Unfortunately I am down to your level. Just ordered another that makes three within a month. And I am a newbie!!!! Nooooooooooooooooooo!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Bro, Nikon or Pentax you better decide fast! Comex @ Suntec City ends this Sunday!!! Go grab some huge discount.

PIAGET offers a pleasing new perpetual calendar arrangement in this year's Emperador Coussin, which even manages to find space for a second time zone in a sub-dial between 7 and 8pm. Unfortunately, that appears to have been at the sacrifice of the moonphase display, no doubt in return for a relatively flat profile on the wrist. Audemars Piguet celebrates the 30th anniversary of their ultra-flat perpetual calendar mechanism from 1978, with a handsome blue Jules Audemars version, which is housed in precious platinum. This 41mm piece will sit just 4mm high on your wrist, and they've managed to keep the moonphase display too. All right, the issue of price may just have obliged you to pass on the rose gold and platinum versions of IWC's very special Kurt Klaus Da Vinci perpetual calendar chronograph in the past. But what if we were to tell you that it's now available in 3,000 stainless steel pieces? Miss this lot and there are no more, the brand has warned us. Love those rose gold hands and markers against the stainless steel! In the exalted realm of minute repeaters, two names that are repeatedly mentioned with reverence are Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin. In Patek's case, we are happy to announce that their understated reference 5078 example housed in platinum is now available with a black as well as a white enamel dial. We recently asked Patek president Philippe Stern which his preferred case would be for such minute repeater watches. Without hesitation, he answered rose gold. But he tells us that platinum is what his repeater buyers consistently seem to prefer. So after you've produced a revolutionary Grande Sonnerie, what next? In Francois Paul Journe's case, the answer is to make an ultra-flat minute repeater which at first glance looks no bulkier than his simple Chronometre Souveraine wrist-watch. Interestingly, this independent watchmaker continues to insist that steel (and not the rose gold suggested by Patek) is the best casing for his sounding watches. Patented features for 2008's Repetition Minutes Souveraine include a flat rather than round gong, which sits just under the watch dial. This, in turn, means that the proud owner gets to watch the hammer striking at a window just above the 9 o'clock marker on the dial. But to really raise your eyebrows, take a look at what Daniel Roth has done this year: Their Il Giocatore Veneziano combines the sound of the minute repeater with an animated hand-painted dial. Activate it, and the 16th century Venetian gentleman rolls dice inside two cups, while the candle on the table actually flickers. You can even make him lift up the cups to reveal any of the 504 possible falls of the dice, thanks to the wizardry of Francois Junod, whose works were featured in the wonderful Tempus watch fair here in Singapore last year. What's more, it can be made to move in sync with the minute repeater soundings, or separately. Try to figure out how they've managed to squeeze all the mechanisms for the time, the sounds and the automata inside this watch case. Amazing! For mere mortals like most of us, who can never dream of ever affording a Patek or a Journe minute repeater, Chopard's LUC division has been kind enough to again provide us with a starter version. The LUC Tech Strike 1, as it's called, will be made available in a 100-piece titanium version this year. You get to see the hammer on the dial side of this 40.5mm watch, which strikes just once per hour (or on demand). You can also brag about a longer-than-usual 65-hour power reserve when not wearing this auto watch - thanks to two stacked barrels

Whoa... The good photography and AR just make looking at these shots breath taking!!!